Jump to content

Nazir

Members
  • Posts

    35
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Nazir

  1. This is why I love this Forum.....so much helpful advice for what to many may be a trivial question(s)--- including bonus humor (e.g. reference to Rumple of Old Bailey!!)......I learn so much and it makes the hobby easier and much much more enjoyable for a true novice (on my second build, Tender Avos) like me--Thx to all! Nazir
  2. I have drill bits that are 40+ yrs old and cant really judge if they are good or not.... 1. Can someone recommend a good quality set that would have all the bits for ship modeling? 2. Should it be metric or inches? Both? 3. Should I get two sets--one for normal sizes and another for micro sizes 4. Is there a box u can recommend where I can put some of my current bits and sort them by size...I have seem some on Amazon but not sure how to judge quality 5. How do I tell if my current bits are worth keeping? 6. If I just keep current bits loose, is there good tool to measure diameter that u can recommend? THX!! Nazir
  3. Moderators; I have added the word "Completed" to the title of my Albatross first build.....How do I assure that when it shows up in the build log that it shows up as COMPLETED? Thx Nazir
  4. This is my second build. The first was Albatros by Occre. 1. The reason I bought this ship was that I was intrigued after reading the review in MSW. It looked very small and rather difficult but I decided to live dangerously. The version I bought included the (sewn) sails but not the simulated nails on the veneer planking 2. I will organize my log by categorizing it into "phases"; these just follow my own "intuitive" sense of what groups of steps constitute a phase. Phase 1: Assembling the hull and first planking. The frames go into the main plate. I think the design here is brilliant. By telling us how much to bevel (through the use of lines drawn into the frames) and by placing asymmetrical notches in the main plate for the frames to attach, the design makes it much easier to avoid errors and the curvature is near perfect right from the start. And the resulting hull is really solid. Also I learnt from my mistakes only to use PVA glue in this phase. My small rotary Dremel was really helpful. The design of the first planking is also amazingly impressive. By building the curvature into the planks, by cutting it to the exact size, by placing notches in the frames for the first planks and finally by the use of holes for "temporary" nailing, the builders have thought through the process in a clever, thoughtful and user-friendly manner. Here are 2 pics, for this Phase, one for the framing and the second for the planking. Phase 2: Assembling the Stern frame, including upper keel frame, latrine etc. This is a very tricky phase and I made near-fatal errors at a couple of points. There are a lot of steps and one has to be really patient with dry fitting and not rushing to glue stuff without checking and rechecking. And, oh yes, numbering the pieces on both sides before cutting them from the plates is a must. And make sure you bevel on the side with the marked lines and attach the pieces with the bevel facing the direction specified. One error I made was following the direction to "wet" some pieces for 5 minutes per instruction manual before "hand curving" the piece to the desired shape. I had warned me against this but went ahead anyway. It worked for the pieces from the C plate (C1) but piece G1 ended up with a sharp curve after wetting and in addition the wood came apart in the middle (not split but the plywood just separated). On hindsight I should have either wet it for only a minute or so or used a clothe's iron. I think as the curvature is minimal one can get by without any help, just gluing it on with a clamp. But I glued the pieces and recurved it using clamps and it ended up fine. The second error was in step #24 when the pieces C1/H2 are attached to the rest of the stern assembly. Make sure you use this pic in the manual to guide you. I didn't insert it as far into the stern assembly as I should have. An hour later I found the error and luckily the glue had not fully set so I redid this step. See pic for end result. https://modelshipworld.com/clubs/?f1[0]=0 Phase 3: Adding the "ribs" i.e. the approximately 70 pieces that are glued to deck and are the basis for veneer planking etc. This phase looks simple but turned out to be trickier than I expected. As always it is a good idea to pencil in part#s before removing from the plate; also follow instructions re: penciling in lines connecting laser marks on BOTH sides of 16 of the ribs (8 on left, 8 on right--#s are B12,14,19,21,25,27,31,33)) ; you will also notice a laser engraved mark on one side of each of these 16 ribs; these are used later along with the pencilled on the same side to align ports inserts and finishing planking). On the non-engraved side, you have to place a notch where you drew a pencilled line in 8 places on each side (ie 8 on port, 8 on starboard). It is really important to look at pic #45 and realize that the notches are placed on the bow side of some of the ribs, and on the stern sides of some of the ribs. The notches are used to create holes that hold pins that then get used later (not sure how yet!) Phase 4: Deck Preparation. Again, a few major errors but with some helpful advice salvaged!....The tricky part here is installing the coamings on top and the coamings supports from below. These are used to support the deck furniture. I made the mistake of removing the inserts from the coamings; as a result when trying to sand and fit them into the holes, they would split; and I couldn't lower them to the .4 mm height below deck either as they would also split there, if they hadn't already; so I ended up patching them and gluing them flush with the deck, figuring that even if the furniture/fixture wasn't recessed below deck level, it would be ok--best I could do! Phase 5: Gluing Deck Also, on the reverse side of deck, be really really careful in gluing supports, bollards, etc to recognize that you need to be near-exact in their placement as they fit into notches in the keel below and if you are off by more than a tiny amount the deck will not be flush. Despite dry-fitting deck, I made this mistake, had to remove after gluing the deck (luckily I caught error in time) and redid everything after trimming some of the supports and the upper keel and rib supports as well. Phase 6: Gluing Inner Bulwark finishing Planking and Sanding: The Inner bulwark planking went well, with a few twists: a. I had to trim a little (<1mm) off the stern end on both side to fit the plank. I used the gunport cuts in the wood to align everything and that worked well..I was relieved that the tiny holes drilled in the prior step at each gunport all lined up with the pins set in the holes etc..Dont immerse plank in water..just dab a little wet cloth at the bow end for 10-15 seconds to help shape the plank to the hull. b. The drilling of the 3 holes in forelugs (actually just a redrilling) thru the plank split the plank in one place and I had to reglue the split part. looks ok but could have been much worse c The instructions on drilling holes #4.1 in the bulwark planking (2 on each side thru the sheaves/slits toward the stern end) are not really clear....u have to drill from the inside/deck side out thru the small slits/sheaves (<1mm bit) d...Finally, u have to sand the top of bulwark/plank using a sanding block across both sides to help even out the tops of the plank with the bulwarks Sanding is tedious. I used Durasand sticks ---worked much better than using paper directly or the cheap sticks I got thru Amazon. Not sure it is as good as it should be but I am ok with it. see pic. QUESTIONS:I decided that from time to time I'd stop and ask for advice on topics that I think of as I am building...here are the ones I have fro this week: 1. I have drill bits from 40 yrs ago.....how do I decide whether they are good or should be thrown out? 2. The engraving on sizes has worn out...how do I check the size? 3. Should I buy a set of good quality US made bits? any brand recommendations? 4. Should I buy metric or inch-based? Both? 5. In addition to #3 should I keep multiple backup cheap small bits?...looks like the pros go thru a lot of them. Phase 7: Second Planking Again, the design is so good....the strip fit near perfectly. I did not need the last plank near the keel except for a sliver on one side....the black veneer for the decorations is a nice touch. And even though I had screwed up by gluing the "counter" well before I should have, the fit between the counter and the planking was "acceptable"--not in the the class of Peta but not bad for a second build Phase 8...Waterways etc This part is tricky but is going well.....Can any one advise me on how one precisely measures the small segments where the waterways go? I can never get the piece to fit just right Thanks for the recommendations re: drill bits/calipers; will order at Amazon today. Another question: I had ordered some clamps from Amazon a while back and am quite disappointed in the quality; they are plastic and despite very little use they are either breaking or malfunctioning. Can anyone recommend a good metal+plastic combo clamp? Also when they say 1 " or 2" etc , do they mean how wide the camp can open up?
  5. I have finished the Albatross....just cant believe it; almost gave up at a few points. Thanks to all who gave advice and encouragement--this is a great community. Here is a pic. I will be writing more detailed notes on dos and donts and what I liked and did not like about the model but couldn't wait to let u know I finished it. THX!!!
  6. Well the sails are up (see pic) but I am having a devil of a time "belaying" lines. Am using a tweezer but can't get the pin to catch the thread from below per a you tube video. Do I need another tool or is there a compromise that is acceptable?
  7. Well, I have finished the ratlines and have started the rest of the rigging. My big question is: Should I "belay" each line as I complete it OR just number it with blue tape and wait till the end to belay it. I have only finished about 20% of the rigging and was using the blue tape approach but am wondering if it will all be one tangled mess when I finish. Any advice would be appreciated.
  8. Well, I have finished the ratlines and have started the rest of the rigging. My big question is: Should I "belay" each line as I complete it OR just number it with blue tape and wait till the end to belay it. I have only finished about 20% of the rigging and was using the blue tape approach but am wondering if it will all be one tangled mess when I finish. Any advice would be appreciated.
  9. Well folks..I am finally hopeful that I will finish this model -- my first (see current status in pic). I have started the rigging. I have two questions and two suggestions: Question 1: Some of the pulleys have one hole and some have two. The instructions are clear on which goes where. But they are unclear on one point. Am I to assume that if a pulley has two holes, the thread should go into one and come back through the second? And that if there is only one hole then you just bring the thread back? What is the significance of one vs two holes? (Follow up----I think I figured it...the two holes seem to serve two different purposes) Question 2: As the finished model is being passed on to my grandson, I would like to enclose it in a plastic/plex case so he doesn't drop it and destroy 8 months worth of work. Can I buy one or build one easily (any plans?) Suggestion 1: Many of the holes in the pulleys are not "cleanly" drilled and the thread will not go through easily. I would suggest you use a drill to widen the holes just a tad before mounting them. Suggestion 2: I would also first put the thread thru a needle before putting needle with thread thru pulley hole---much much easier esp in hard to reach spots!
  10. So the model is almost ready for the rigging and installation of masts and I think I will take a break and spend some time learning about tying knots and other topics in rigging. I am quite pleased with how things are going right now--see pic--- but feel the rigging will be overwhelming--hope I can make it through
  11. Hi Folks: As those who have followed my build know by now, it has been a tough slog. But I am entering a much more enjoyable phase now. Why you may ask? The answer is "Tools I wish I had Bought Sooner". When I was growing up in Calcutta, India, a friend introduced me to Western music (both pop and classical). One record that I remember buying (vinyl of course) was Bing Crosby's "Songs I Wish I had Sung" in which he paid tribute to popular songs of other artists like Al Jolson (April Showers), Nat King Cole (Mona Lisa), Bob Hope (Thanks for the Memory) and others. On that theme I give my tribute to "Tools I wish I had Bought Sooner". I recently splurged and bought the following: 1. A Dremel 8050 2. A Zona razor kerf saw with mitre box 3. A hand spring-loaded drill 4 Sanding sticks from Zona Every one of these tools has made it MUCH easier to do the tasks and I am really enjoying the process much more. One question: One of you recommended a book on the basics of rigging. Are there one or two articles with illustrations that would show me how to tie the basic knots in the rigging process that any of you can recommend? Thx Nazir
  12. Mr Coyle (apologies if I got this wrong): Thx very much for your prompt reply. I will follow your suggestion re: eye bolts and pins. Re "basics" I am attaching two pics that I hope will give examples of what I mean. In the first, I am not sure how to tie the knot to make the thread tight and secure (should I add some glue at the end...if so which kind...diluted PVA? and where do I "dab" it?). In the second pic I have no idea how to construct the "steps" i.e. rungs of the ladder so to say...how to construct the red horizontal lines so they look neat and tidy and secure? Hope this helps you get a picture of what I need to learn....Thx again Nazir
  13. I badly need help on the next step in two areas. I am starting to put the deck "furniture" so to say and beginning the first steps in rigging/masting. 1. On the first there are a number of "pins" and "eye bolts" that go in different places with different thickness to the wood in each place. Yet all the pins and eye bolts supplied in the kit are of the same length, and often longer than the thickness of the wood. Am I supposed to cut the pins/eye bolts down to an appropriate size? And should I drill a "starter" hole to facilitate the hammering of the pin or eye bolt 2. Re: masting/rigging this is my first time and there are virtually no directions in the manual on the basics of how to do this. I am winding my way thru MSW but could use help on some "key" articles on this topic Thx
  14. Barry You mentioned that Occre sent you detailed "rigging" instructions that helped a lot and were not included with kit; where can I get them? Can you post a pdf file? Nazir
  15. The 3 critical mistakes I made in the building of the hull are: 1. inadequate attention to fairing; this was entirely my fault...there was enough warning on this from MSW folks. I recently saw a video of a modeler fairing using the Dremel 8050 drill---made it look so easy..I think I will get one. 2. not correctly doing the first planking (plywood); I connected the "paired" pieces ie from the two sides of the hull instead of just bringing them up to the center keel piece and stopping short of having the two planks touch each other; in all fairness, the illustrations in the kit were misleading. 3. Using the wrong kinds of glue and too much of it...Ive gotten much better at this and now that the hull is done I think things will move more smoothly--see pic from today below
  16. I would appreciate some help re: what glue to use to glue the wooden piece that goes below the bowsprit (see pic); i have done the best I can with sanding but the two pieces do not fit flush against each other---touch in places and very close in others; I assume some glue work better in such situations than others. Any help is most appreciated. I have PVA (Titebond) and Gorilla super glue but am willing to order another and wait to do this if so advised.
  17. After switching to Gorilla Super glue for the second (veneer) planking, I tried PVA (Titebond Quick and Thick) as the fumes from the super glue were getting to me; PVA worked like a charm...wish I had discovered this sooner (lots of folks on MSW recommend it). At this point the hull is basically complete. I can honestly say I have made every mistake in the book; here are some examples: 1. Not paying enough attention to fairing; result: mistakes in alignment and curvature of hull. Used some 3M sanding sponges but not sure what grit they were...and didnt have enough patience to do it right; tried to cover up mistakes with plastic wood but this didnt prevent the second (veneer) planking from being uneven as well...some of the plywood (first planking) shows through --see pics---and makes it look like a newbie effort (which it is) 2. using super glue on second planking instead of PVA..some glue oozed out and discolored the veneer of the second planking. As a result of above I am thinking of filling in gaps in second plank with Minwax wood dough and staining the current walnut-looking veneer with a Minwax mahogany stain (dont have walnut--have some mahogany in garage)...see pics of before-staining look...so far I give myself a D grade but a B for effort...I have spent at least 50, maybe as many as 100 hrs on this model and I am only about half-way done BUT there have been moment of sheer joy and am already thinking of my next one!!
  18. Hi Folks: I am about half way through my first build..the Albatross by Occre; it has been a lot of fun, though challenging and not what any of you will call a work of art after it is finished. But I am already looking for my next challenge and thinking of buying the Avos by Master Korabel. My 2 questions are 1. Will it be far too challenging? At 78 years old, I feel I do not have too much time to spend on the "beginner" kits so I thought I'd just plunge in...what do you experts think? Which of the many versions of Avos should I get? I was thinking of the + edition from Ages of Sail (its the only one they carry and I got the Albatross from them--they are very helpful)-- but the posting on the website says that because of the "pear wood" the model is meant for experienced modelers--not sure why the wood has anything to do with it. 2. While the model is within my budget, I want to be sure I know what other tools to get and add them to the cost before making a decision; all I have so far are an Exacta knife, a small hammer, some clamps, some sandpaper and some files (were already in my garage for general use). Will I need a dremel? a pin vise? a razor saw? a jewelers file? a plank bender? anything else? any thoughts of sources? anyone calling it quits and willing to sell me their tool shed?!! As always, you guys are amazing and have made me feel really good about my new hobby.... Nazir
  19. After I started using Gorilla super glue, the second planking proceeded much better; one side of the hull is done...here is pic. I can start picturing the hull when completed; definitely not a work of art but in many ways I learnt a lot and am determined to get better; many moments of sheer joy! Thx to all who have been giving advice and encouragement.
  20. I would appreciate some help. I am having a devil of a time with the lining of the hull. I think i may be using the wrong kind of glue. The instructions had called for 3 kinds of glue : carpenter's for parts that dont offer resistance; Fast-drying for "almost instant" setting and Cobbler's/contact for the veneers. The last is what they recommend for the lining. I have attached a pic of the 3 glues I used/substituted for these (couldn't find exact match at Home Depot for 2 of 3): Elmers carpenter wood glue, Gorilla Super Glue (for "instant") and Clear Gorilla Glue (for "contact" glue); the last is what I have been using for the lining. I have attached a pic of the glues and one of how I have been Jerry-rigging the lining to hold it in place while the glue dries. Very improvised and not as much contact as I'd like. Plus I have to wait 12 hrs for each strip to dry before adding another one etc.. Would love thoughts from the ones who know of how I can de better for the rest of the task. Stay Healthy! Nazir
  21. Thanks to Chuck for the great videos. While I have tried to followed his advice re: adding chocks, I probably did not add as many as needed simply because it was really difficult to sand them down as part of the fairing process. In addition, I have been using the pins on the planks against his advice because for the model I am working with it is virtually impossible to hold the plank in place while glue sets in without pushing the pin through the plank into bulwark. I hope Chuck will understand! I am confused about one issue: can I use a pin vise to push the pin into the bulwark or is a pin vise basically a (micro) drill? If latter, where can I get the small gadget that is used to "push" the pin into the wood? When I google pin vise it is basically the drill that shows up .....which I assume cannot double up as a "pin pusher"?
  22. First Failure then Success! After completing the bulwarks I have the following notes/observations: 1. The instructions do not tell you soak the bulwarks before gluing to the deck. YOU MUST---several times! I did it three times but wish I had done it more; because after I started gluing I realized the front of the bulwark was not bent enough; and as I had already put the lining it was too late to soak in water again. Also, I used pins too often and the integrity of the front part of the bulwark was compromised. So I ended up using a screw to hold the glue in place ...then removing the screw after glue had dried. I did this on both sides. Again, learn from my mistake; wet and bend and clamp --as many times as needed (also it is hard to clamp front end of bulwark--I don't know that I have a real solution. 2. The final result of all this is shown in a pic---I have not shown front as it needs some work after the "butchering" it got from the screws but as most of it will be covered with lining I think it will look ok -- only u know my secret. 3. Now it is time for the planking....from Chuck and others I am told this will be really challenging. I plan to follow their suggestions that I add some support chocks and also try to split planking so it is not a single piece that goes all the way across. I am not sure I will be able to manage without the nails but I will try. But I have learnt the hard way that wetting, shaping, clamping, sanding and repeating all this many many times is a core principle in these steps......ignore at your peril....otherwise u will be dead (i.e. walking the plank) later, so to say!
  23. After completing the the lining and the gluing of deck(s), I have the following observations: 1. It is really important to preplan use of the (Ramin) lining. The kit comes with very little spare lining so use it parsimoniously. I would suggest that to line the main deck, the bulkhead and the quarter deck you use 20 pieces of the lining (each is .6*5*400). First cut off 310 mm for the main deck (not 320 as instructions suggest, as 310 is more than adequate). The rest, 90mm, will be enough for the bulkhead and quarter deck--with some scraps left over for miscellaneous use)--- Note: I realized after I completed the hull that I was wrong about my concern--there was more than enough lining...sorry! 2. Line the bulkhead the way I show in the pic. I did it the way shown in instructions and the (small) extra width from the lining threw off the fit of the main deck to the hull so I had to painstakingly remove the excess lining (which had been glued already!) and the result is shown in the pic. This worked. 3. For the gluing of main deck and quarter deck you will need lots of clamps; I hadn't planned on it. my 24 hr Amazon Prime along with a good sale (about $5 each) helped. 4. Also,while instructions don't say, dont forget to drill the holes (both round and oblong) thru lining after gluing lining but before gluing maid deck to structure/hull. 5 Finally, many thx to all who have given suggestions. They are greatly appreciated. Nazir
  24. I would recommended great care at the next step": essentially, it involves gluing strips of wood on the deck, trimming off the excess wood and then gluing the (reinforced) deck to the "structure" of the ship (quotes from instruction). You need to sure you use the right strips; go to the "parts" list and make sure the lines/strips u choose match what the instructions say as there are MANY wood strips of different sizes in the kit. I have preplanned this step and have gone through it many times in my mind. I have hit several stumbling blocks: first, I tested laying the deck against the structure and despite my best effort in making the structure there are very small glitches in the fit. I trimmed a little wood in the notches to get it to fit. Second, while the structure is basically flat, it does curve up a little at the bow. Yet the instructions say to just glue it. As the deck will not hold while glue is drying I will use a clamp. Third, after I line the deck with the strips, the strips are supposed to face upward based on my reading of the instructions (ie become the top of the deck).You need to drill holes through the strips I glued wherever you see holes in the deck (see pic in Step 1), including the long oval hollow piece at the bow. (instructions don't say). But u do not have to carve at the notches as I dont see why that would be relevant. Stay tuned to confirm all this works
×
×
  • Create New...