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    : Sailing the trail, upon the Dusty Ol' Seas of "Texas"

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  1. Quite true. 'Kick-backs' can be a dangerous and scary thing, especially with thicker woods and more powerful saws. One must be familiar with their equipment, techniques and be experienced in safe practices. I hate to say it, however. 'It's hard to teach folks such things as common sense and safety!" That's usually an acquired 'foresight' that eventually comes to folks only after years of 'hands-on' working experience... and a few 'band-aids' along the way! All you experienced folks know exactly what I mean. You, yourselves were once 'newbies' too.
  2. Nope, this thing does 'NOT' come with a fence. You must make your own. I use a 1/4" x 1" stainless steel flat-bar, that I clamp to the table, as my fence. It works great!
  3. Yeah, most folks probably associate a 'Hot-Shot' with someone of character who's famous last words begin with the statement; "Hold My Beer and Watch 'THIS'!" 😲
  4. That's what I've read, also... one shot every 90 seconds.
  5. I'm reading that that cannon shot was 'cast' back in the 1700's. Okay, I'll buy that, but I need more info. Were the castings made of pure cast iron, or were those balls actually cast via an 'alloy' of mixed metals? Also, were those cast cannonballs treated, after casting, much like typical ornamental cast iron, for purposes of rust prevention? Last, but not least. "How were those cannonballs efficiently transferred from a shot locker, down in the hold, up to the proper decks, cannons and firing locations during the heat of battle?" Were man powered elevators used to keep cannonballs constantly moving up to the appropriate gun decks to insure that a ready supply of shot was always available? Surely folks didn't manually 'hand tote' 12, 24 and 32 pound cannon-balls from shot lockers, in the hold, up to misc. gun decks and individual battle stations... "Or did they?"
  6. Take care in insuring that your whale has actually been properly 'saddle-broke' prior to blindly trusting it to give that beautiful 'whaleboat' a gentle ride! 😲 "Great Job!"
  7. 3/8" Satinwood, no problem! 3/8" Clear Poplar... "like butter!" 1/4" Ebony, zipped right through it! 3/16" Kryptonite, wait a minute... "Sorry folks, my bad." "That's a different review, posted on a different forum... in a galaxy 'Far, far away'!" 🙃 (Yes, Amazon delivers there, too... just can't get it 'PRIME' next day delivery!)
  8. $37.99 on Amazon. This is the one that I bought. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GKRON1E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  9. I'm glad that you got something out of that video, however. I'm not the one to thank. "I'm just the delivery person." 'Chuck' is the person behind the informative videos and the one whom you should thank! 🙂
  10. Something similar to this might be really helpful https://www.micromark.com/Electric-Plank-Bender . You might also want to take a look at the video below, as well as the companion videos that go with it.
  11. Dulcie, my feline supervisor, built a fire under me and insisted that I get back to the riders, so I did. I'm hoping to find the time to complete two more sets of these riders before I go back to work this coming Thursday. I've been putting them off because I've actually done things 'backwards'. The riders are an 'after-thought' that didn't come to me until after I purchased Longridge's book "The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships." (Tossing the ignorant 'newbie' card here)! I first thought that the kitted model pictures looked GREAT. After a bit of research I discovered how lacking the kitted model actually was!!! Seeing how part of the interior planking was already completed, I had no choice but to make the riders fit around the internal features and also sit 'atop' the internal planking that I had already laid. Not an easy chore, to say the least! Properly done, I should have fabricated the riders 'prior' to planking, and fitted the planks to the riders, but it's now too late to dwell on that mistake. Gotta simply work with what I've got/done. Creating nice, tight fits of all the components, after the fact, is extremely difficult/impossible to pull off in a precise, exacting manner. I'll enter this SNAFU into my beginners notebook as entry #937 of current newbie mistakes to never be repeated! There are some horrible gaps that need filling, already filled bad joints that need further camouflage, etc.. All in all, it's all good. "It's a far better thing that I do, today, and learn what 'not' to do', while bashing a kit... than to later do such things and effectively 'trash' an otherwise good build!" If I'm not mistaken, Charles Dickens once put that famous quote to pen and paper while he was hopelessly lost between two cities... maybe not! 🤥
  12. "Howdy and welcome aboard, pardner!"
  13. Mark, I really like the idea of using a tapered stick for sizing the openings. Great idea! I'm gonna use that idea when I go for the final sizing of the ports! "Thanks for the tip!" As for now, I just completed the exterior planking and have visually filed the undersized ports to a somewhat square appearance, with no reference at all except for my eyes. There was no need to take the time to try and file these ports as square as possible, as I'll just have to do it all over again when I go for the final sizing. I just did it to test my abilities, my eyes, my hands... and to get a good feel for the 'technique'. I was actually surprised at my 'free-handed' results. Came out better than I was expecting! My 'Quality Control Inspector'/ 'superviser' saw no issues with the ports, either. She gave the gun ports a quick look-see, then quickly shifted her attention to the internal 'riders' and wanted to know when I'm going to get back to completing 'those'?
  14. On this build, I used a 'cut-off' Dremel wheel to rough out the gun ports in the solid stock frame supplied via this kit. I made the cut-outs a bit smaller than 'depicted', via the instructions, so I could file and fine tune these gun port openings once all was finally said and done. The ports are now being "said", but still far from being done! Only 'one' gun port, shown in the photo, has actually been completely roughed out. That would be the lowest gun port situated down towards the water line. What I have been doing is planking the hull's exterior, as far as I can, without totally planking over the gun port(s). I've been leaving just enough open space, between my planks and the port opening, to squirrel a jewelers saw into what is left of the opening... then rough cutting the planking away to give me an opening. Once I've cut away an opening, I continue planking until I've 'almost' obscured another port with planks... then put the jewelers saw back to work, again cutting the remainder of previously cut/planked ports, as well as newly planked ports. I'm almost done, as you can see. I'll cut out the bottom portions of the uppermost port, complete the planking, then rough out the last portion of that uppermost port. I'll then be ready to fine tune these ports prior to lining them with headers, sills, jams, etc.. I'd like to know how you folks go about creating small, perfectly square 'looking' openings... just like the windows in your house? There 'must' be a trick used to accomplish this, "at least I hope there is!" My eyes, hand to eye coordination, and fine manual, hand tool control isn't exactly what it once used to be. Without cheating, I stand a 50/50 shot of manually crafting nice looking ports, by hand alone.
  15. Amazon now has one 'less' copy available for sale. I went ahead and bought a copy. I've been meaning to compare the lines on the plate that Hank sent me with those on Humphreys drawing, but haven't done so, yet. I've read that basically every drawing of the connie's hull is a little different, depending on who and when the drawings were made. Because of that, I've been trying to stick with the original. Guess it's time for me to be less exacting and get to work! Thanks for the heads up on the book!

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