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mikegr

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Everything posted by mikegr

  1. I redesigned the forward launcher in more reasonable dimensions and painted the Phalanx. Other details were added like barrel life raft and rings.
  2. So after painting, repainting, fittings, misfittings, repairs and more I got to the point to glue all main pieces together. Now I need to add details, go for final paint job and rigging
  3. Some modelers report 300$ on upgrade parts for a 50$ kit. Though I do not count my spendings, I cannot cope with that
  4. Today I painted the dark grey and added some PE after the proper adjustments
  5. There is no cure. Whatever the scale there always will be tiny things that have to be worked with absolute precision. Its just the amount of work that differs like painting hulls in 1/200 instead on 1/700
  6. I printed most of the parts.Since I used a plan to calculate the size of the pieces and the PE parts are made to replace standard plastic parts of specific kits some misfitting is expected. Some PEs won't be used as the required details is already designed at the parts I printed.
  7. So I made the second part and glued them together. Light was tested. Some misfittings at the end of the hangar won't be visible so I don't bother.
  8. Next was the hangar. I printed the right half and made some adjustment to fit the PE externally. I made them in separate pieces so I can scratch built the interior more easily them glue them together. Like in Horizon class because of the side compartments for inflatable storage, the heli hangar is somewhat narrow.
  9. Next was to print the central area between the hangar and the bridge where funnels and towers will placed upon. However because of warping problems that I couldn't solve after many attempts, I removed it and replaced it with plywood wrapped with plastic fillets for a smoother finish. This handwork took me 2 hours instead of 2 wasted evenings, what a bitter lesson. Fortunately the other piece, the main canon printed just fine and a barrel made of needle pieces was added along with hand rails.
  10. I made the hull. It looked clumsy and wide. I had to remeasure to get the proper dimensions Excess "fat" was trimmed down and it was shortened by 3 cm. After more careful work I shaped the sides and upon finish wood was polished Then, I add the PE heli deck on rear and a 2.5 mm piece of resin on bow to make the right elevation Finally priming and sanding the bow, stern and the sides, several times.
  11. I will take a few weeks off because I suddenly feel the need to smell some sanded wood. So I start a new scratch project
  12. I thank all the members for their supporting comments as well all the silent followers. You need to consider the information resources and the materials available back then and compare again.
  13. I will build the cousin of my previous work - Horizon class, the type 45 Destroyer.
  14. The lesson of the day. The display looks symmetrical but its not. Snow paste was used to resemble the waves. On the right i used brush with left and right moves with fading effect. On the left my index finger was deeped in the paste then applied on the wood. I found out that the first choice was more appropriate when making long stern wakes as the left and right water moves are quite visible. Perhaps I will try it on a future smaller model as I will need a longer base. So I balanced the sides by using airbrush on the left to fill in partially the blue gaps and by "indexfingering" the right one. Some airbrushing for smoother fading effect and a drizzle of microballoons. Lastly a few glitters on white foamy surfaces along with silicone bits. The model assembly came quite good I would rate is 9 out 10 on my satisfaction scale. The base it wasnt my planned outcome but turned ok. Maybe a few extra gel layers for thicker result would be better. I was pleased by 8 out of 10
  15. Thanks. It is an old printed with partially working screen and regular resin. Obviously is good to know how to get the best out of it before upgrade to another model. I experiment a bit with plaster and various tools to form the seabed but all come to dead end so I gave up. Since my target was to create a light wavy sea, foam was replaced by wood. Then used gel to form the waves.A standard method. Only difference this time I use clear blue from Tamiya on top. Tomorrow will proceed with the final details.
  16. Time to make the seabed Meanwhile I managed to finish the most difficult part of my "JMSDF Abukuma class upgrade package"
  17. You are welcome. Rigging is done. Time for making the sea base. While browsing I managed to get a year estimate for the model. Between 1937-1938.
  18. Thank you. These are parts of the Decal sheet I ordered. They have been used on another built which I used as a guide.There is also a black roof and a white circle which I didn't draw so I can avoid a paint disaster. I am not aware of the exact date all I know its definitely before River Plate and after the search light platforms modification on the superstructure. Oils done. Some chipping, rust effect and ready for rigging
  19. Sorry for the awful image. Here is a German AA gun on a test printed tower for JMSDF Tone
  20. Thanks. The added decals made some difference. Therefore I decided to paint the plane one tone lighter green so they can look better as they are mostly black. Railing is done, added few more decals. Tomorrow I will spray with mat varnish, do weathering and oiling. Rigging is next and hopefully I will done the sea base by weekend.
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