Jump to content

rkwz

Members
  • Content Count

    40
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Melbourne, Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks mate, couple of days of watery eyes and wearing Darth Vader masks, but luckily a storm hit us yesterday which cleared the smog a little...
  2. Thanks, shipman. I am using this build to pickup as many new skills as I can although I totally agree sometimes my ambition has got the better of me... But I plan to finish what I started (eventually) and am in no real hurry . Since I've committed to cutting off the kit molded deadeyes, I plan to soldier on with the rest of the channels (perhaps the main and fore channels will be easier to manage since the chain plate length is nearly double in length). Haven't decided what to do with the upper masts yet, I now realise the deadeyes should be 1-1.5mm (think this is far too small to make for my ability) to do it justice. I fear I may have to use the kit deadeyes which is a pity in terms of consistency... We shall see. Thank you for the tip for opening the square ports, hatches and windows. I picked up some fine triangular files too late unfortunately. They would have helped for cleaning the mould lines off the masts earlier too (I had earlier spent ages cleaning off with the back of a scalpel blade but lost patience)! I'm looking forward to the rigging, but there is still much to complete before we get there.
  3. Well I gave it a shot and frankly am wondering whether I should have used thread instead of copper wire to simulate the chain plates. By the way I found some model train track fixing pins with 1-1.5mm heads from a hobby shop. After some decapitation of these pins, they did a good job holding the "chain plates" in place. I looped the 0.3mm copper wire around the pin heads and although it was fiddly, here is the result (mizzen channels to start as they require the least number of deadeyes) Wasn't easy getting the needle nose pliers to bite so used precision tweezers to clamp the wire into a straight line (sort of). I will test out water based black paint on the deadeyes later as I worry enamel paint could block the threading holes which are smaller than my finest precision drill bit. Maybe there is a smaller size I can buy?
  4. Really? Just checked out your Sherbourne and they look great. Btw she is a fantastic model To be honest I don't really know if the 0.3mm wire will work as chain plates yet, seems a little too malleable but we shall see when I get my pins in haha.
  5. Made a little batch of deadeyes then suddenly remembered the golden rule to do a dry fitting first! Luckily it fit although I'll need to add a little extra length at the bottom to compensate for the thickness of the channel. 0.3mm copper thread to simulate chainplates (needs adjustment)
  6. Got my hands on some copper wire and made a jig to hold the 2mm deadeyes in place (0.5mm copper wire curved on itself and clamped by an alligator clip). My first attempt to use 0.3mm wasn't great as the wire bends a little too easily. Tried again with 0.5mm wire with a little hook at the end. Don't think I've got the guts to solder it, seems to retain it's shape better so hopefully I can get away with this. Now to make another 37 of these buggers for the channels...
  7. Finished rigging the cannons finally! Then I realised I'd forgotten to paint the gunport frame in red first before placing the cannons... Aaargh! Next mod to ponder... Should I stick to the kit supplied channels and mock deadeye setup or take the plunge, cut off the damned things and use those lovely 2mm deadeyes from Radimir? Looks like I'll give it a try after all. In preparation for this step, I bought some 4mm tiny brass nails off eBay called Escutcheon pins (for shoe repairs apparently) with a 1.5mm diameter head. These will be used to pin the chainplates to the hull and will take a month to arrive. Now to get my hands on 0.3-0.5mm copper or brass wire to make the chainplates and a crash course in soldering...
  8. Started off the session finishing off the port side cannons. Decided to rip off the poop deck to preserve my sanity... 80% of my time spent building the ship seems to be spent pondering and mentally preparing for the next stage... Some of the lessons (after much swearing) I learnt from rigging the first 3 cannons were: 1. Use glue sparingly 2. It is easier to thread the eyebolts BEFORE glueing the cannons on the deck for easier access 3. Rigging tension needs to be adjusted carefully. This I discovered after popping out 2-3 eyebolts for the side tackles. 4. Those precious 1.5mm Eyebolts are a b**** to find when misplaced (lost 4 so far). Used 48 (out of 100) so far just on the cannons and carronades and think I will need to top up more again soon... To get the thread to bend over the pommelions of the cannons, I used fine drill screws to balance the thread with a touch of phatic glue on the bend, then hung whatever manner of objects I could find to stiffen it up. Next set of breeching ropes pre-threaded and cannons glued onto the deck. Will let it sit overnight this time. What took me 3-4 hours yesterday night was done within an hour today now that I'm on a roll! To be continued....
  9. First upper deck cannon rigged... Not looking forward to rigging the 2 beneath the stairs though Forgive the glue streaks, should wash off with wet wipes once I finish the job. Thanks to Modeler12 for the idea for the rope coil jig!
  10. Wow Shipman, that's tiny and so detailed... Hats off to you sir. Can't imagine how challenging it would've been rigging this? Also a bit of fun, when I brought my kids to the local museum recently, I came across this amazing ivory model built by a 19th century French prisoner of war out of bone (maybe a prisoner from Trafalgar? 😄). I think it was of a similar scale to your beauty.
  11. Carronades installed finally... Initially I thought I might be able to use blocks for the side tackles and attempted to fashion some from a wooden toothpick. Well, that didn't work... Shattered as soon as I sliced it off... So I decided to use thread to rig the carriage instead and then insert a false styrene block later. Happy with the result, but it was a pain "slackening" the thread.
  12. She's looking amazing. Thought I'd drop by and follow your progress and pick up some knowledge from your build... Working on the 1/180 plastic version myself, I'm in awe of your fine work on wood no less!
  13. Hi Blue Ensign, if you don't mind me asking... What did you use to pin the preventer plates? I've seen Dafi grinding sewing pins to 4mm lengths with a Dremel for his Victory but was hoping to find an alternative method where possible... Cheers,

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×
×
  • Create New...