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rkwz

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  1. The natural finish is testament to your skill! Paint is an excellent way to hide our errors 😁
  2. Thank you, Henry that's very helpful. I did some more digging around online for more Victory quarterdeck photos and came across this: I can't tell if the rope belayed around the staghorns makes up part of the tie off for the main topsail yard halyard which belays to the kevel on the left? Or is that the main sheet tied off according to Longridge?
  3. Also my second question... Noel Hackney's guide for a standing/harbour rig suggests the tricing lines are pulled higher and the inner tricing lines run along the shrouds. I noticed most builds with the tricing lines rigged differently have the main sheets reeved in-board of those lines. However since the tricing lines on my model are pulled close to the shrouds, there is little room to fit the main sheets which would then be rubbing directly against the shrouds. Would it be feasible to let my main sheets run outboard of the tricing lines instead?
  4. Hello everyone, I am having trouble working out how to belay the main sheet rope for my HMS Victory build: Longridge says after it reeves through the sheet block in the "spider" (hull bracket) on the side of the hull, it leads through a lead lined hole in the quarter deck bulwark and belays to the staghorn inside the bulwarks. On the actual ship, from my understanding, the blue line I have marked below would show the direction of the line in order to belay on the staghorn based on what I have read (the hole I believe is located behind the ladder leading up t
  5. Funnily enough, I was thinking maybe the leftover bones from some lamb shanks I had last week would've provided an excellent supply and after some armchair "googling", it seems mutton stew was a staple diet for French captives held in England during the Napoleonic wars after all! Bone spars would surely be a stronger material than the lousy plastic spars I have been using for this build... But I digress. 😁
  6. As I had run out of 0.18mm monofilament nylon wire which I had been using for seizing blocks with and the gutterman thread I had settled with was producing less than satisfactory results, I remembered that some Napoleonic prisoner of war models used human hair for rigging. E.g. this model which was mentioned earlier in this log ... Surely it isn't 1:48 scale? More like 1:400 😅. I remembered it was maybe about 15cm in total length when I saw it. So I tried a strand of hair. It does work, but I found it was prone to brea
  7. More fiddly work to be done for the hull brackets for the main courses... I couldn't find any 0.5mm styrene in my stash so I had to slice some out of a 2.5mm H column using an X-Acto blade. Some further trimming and shaping. Probably too risky to drill in an eyebolt which was my initial plan, so I followed Hackney's advice to fashion a square piece of styrene and drill a hole through it. A touch of CA and some more trimming of the edges to round it off a little further and hopefully this will work. The legs are quite flexible
  8. Beautiful and such detailed work! The Heller Victory is on my Xmas wishlist...along with Daniel's amazing etch sets 😁
  9. That's great advice, thank you Thunder. I had given some thought about using styrene too but impatience got the better of me. Will try this for the blocks for the buntlines later (don't think these will be rigged though as I don't have some specific blocks under the mast caps). It's a block party this week: Some early tests for the main sheet, clueline and tack blocks... Seems ok i think
  10. Continuing on with the sail rig... After some thought and referral to an earlier MSW post: So the sheet terminates in a tack knot, secured by a loop for the clue line as there doesn't appear to be a block used for the topgallant clueline end. Although I'm still unsure as Lennarth Peterson's book shows the lines passing through a sheave in the topsail and topgallant yards? Was this an artistic simplification or perhaps specific to the Melampus model his book was based on? Hopefully I'm on the right t
  11. Hi Thunder, the blocks came from this site: https://www.hismodel.com/ From firsthand experience, the blocks are quite well made...edges are sanded nicely, sheaves moulded quite well with very few defective blocks . Much better quality than my local supplier that's for sure!
  12. Well, it looks like my excitement got the better of me again and I totally forgot to plan for the sail rig in Chapter 11 of Hackney's guide... (sheets, tacks, cluelines etc) although I didn't intend to add sails to the rig initially. After some helpful discussion with other members, I've decided to press on and add these lines. Had to prepare at least 30 extra single 2mm blocks. At this scale, that was the smallest could source although I really needed a range starting from 1.2mm...  Extra blocks added to the yard arms. I had to sett
  13. Thank you Thunder. As I recall, it was you who recommended me Hackney's manual earlier in my log which set me on the right path! I can't thank you enough I've decided to follow Gil's method which was to tie it off to the aftmost mizzen shroud a little higher, but leaving it loose in case I need to redo it or if more information comes to light... Cheers, Ron
  14. Hello all (again), I have yet another Victory rigging related question... Main yard brace lizards/lizzards - where do they tie off to? Hackney says to tie them to the "no 4 mizzen shroud one ratline below the 2nd full length ratline above deck level). Longridge doesn't really mention the specifics of where to tie it off to, simply "made fast to one of the mizzen shrouds". So which way is the "correct" way? Hackneys method seems a little too low on the shrouds (see green cross). Some builds I've seen on the forum have it on the aft mo
  15. Thanks for following this log. I'm doing my best to squeeze more out of this model while we are under a 6 week lockdown due to the pandemic... Update on progress: Braces mostly done, except the main yard brace. I missed an earlier step to make some snatch blocks as I didn't understand it earlier. Makes sense after referring to Gil Middleton's log/Bible. Running rigging lines show up better in the dark. I used some french furniture polish (Pate Dugay) mainly because I was up sold this product when I asked for beeswax. Si
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