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Gerarddm

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  1. As above, Jim sent me his email address, I sent him my questions and he replied within 24 hours, so it's all good. But yes, he really should get that website email function fixed.
  2. Jim- Thanks for your response, I will send you an email at that address. Muito obrigado! Gerard>
  3. Just curious: twice in the past couple of months I have used the email function of the Byrnes Model Machines website to ask a couple of questions ( there is no direct email address that I can find ) and got zero response. Is he always this uncommunicative?
  4. Well, yes, and it looks rather jarring, if not actually unsightly in certain cases. If one assumes that trunnels were 1" to 1.5" in diameter , then some models I have seen photos of have trunnels that, when scaled out, would have been several inches in diameter.
  5. He provides no illustrations, and the tenor of his comments were than he pinned for strength.
  6. In reading Underhill's Volume 1 of Plank On Frame Models, he notes that he ALWAYS pins his work no matter how small that pin or trunnel may be, and does not rely on adhesives solely.
  7. I am glad to see that you used wooden pads with those types of clamps. My other wood working experience has been that if you use those types of clamps directly on your project wood, the tips plasticize and leave 'stains' in the wood, what a bugger.
  8. An olfactory benefit to using pine tar is that your model will smell great and shippy. 🙂 I will follow Nelson's dictum for ratlines, but what about rigging deadeyes? I have seen models with both natural and dark line?
  9. Xacto makes a sprue cutter, for use in plastic model kits. Inexpensive, cuts flat and cleanly. I would imagine using a dab of glue or shellac would help before the cut.
  10. In fact I contacted Mystic Seaport a couple of weeks ago about any information they may have on Davis' Lexington since they have his model. I got back a quick reply saying it would take them a few weeks to cogently respond, so we shall see.
  11. In all the books I have been reading ( feverishly, trying to get up to speed ) about plank-on-frame construction, nowhere do I see any mention of how to dimension the molded size ( i.e. the fore/aft faces ) of frames. Even Underhill, in Volume 1 of Plank-On-Frame Models, page 8, doesn't mention or show this. Clearly one has the shape of the frames; in my plans for Davis' Lexington he shows the sided size ( i.e. thickness ) of the frames; but no mention at all of how wide the face of the frames would be at the keel, nor how they would gradually become less wide as one went up to the sheer. Obviously the frames of something like Victory or Constitution would be beefier than a 16-gun armed brig like Lexington. How does one go about correctly sizing frames/futtocks?
  12. Thanks for all the enlightening answers, very helpful.
  13. Due to display space limitations, my proposed build of the Davis Lexington will have to be in 1:72 scale. As I have been calculating timber sizes etc., I suddenly realized last night that the real ship would have had hull planking of around 3" thickness. In 1:72 scale, that is barely over 1MM. Being a newbie, my first reaction was, good grief! How do I get wood that thin? And what species of wood can be worked that thin? Then I recalled that people like McNarry and others have built amazingly detailed models at 1:100 or less, so my question is, how does one get wood so thin that the scaled planking would be accurate?

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