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Bruma

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  1. Thank you, Shipman! They seem to be quite small indeed. Kirill. I’m sure you'll be successful! I have just realised who you are by looking at the link in your signature and I invite everyone to do the same. Your spanish galleon is a true marvel, an inspiring work and an example of what can be achieved starting from a humble plastic kit. I’m glad to have you aboard! Some small updates: Martingale and whisker booms. I decided to try to improve those areas. They are quite visible and due to the restriction of plastic, Revel
  2. Hi Kirill4. For the main I use 3 mm deadeyes, top and topgallant are 2 mm. They are simply the smallest I was able to find on the market at reasonable cost. I don't have the tools to make them by myself with the needed precision and uniformity. They are from Amati and even if they are the smallest available for me, they are still too big, unfortunately... Edit: I was answering the first post while you wrote the second one. The answer given to shipman should be good enough but if you need more information you have just to wite me!
  3. 12 links/cm for the first one 16 links/cm for the second one 8-9 links/cm for the third one. But even if the firs one has fewer link As you can see, even if the first one has fewer links per centimeters, the thickness in slightly smaller due to the more elongate shape of each link. This is the exact article: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Tools-Universal-Chain-0-6mmX1-0mm/dp/B08FF8KZ4G on the front the logo is "master tools" but on the back they are labelled "trumpeter". Thank you for your kind words!
  4. Hello everyone and thank you for your great support! Kirill4, you are right: the chain shown in my previous post, the smallest one, has exactly 16 links per centimeter, thank you for dedicating your time trying to help me. I really appreciate it! They are indeed available around the world, but not so easily in the EU. The problem is the customs fees, which can vary a lot and raise significantly the price. If anyone of you is interested in this kind of chain from the UK, here you have a link: https://www.langleymodels.co.uk/awd1/index.php?route=product/category&am
  5. Ok, a funny tale now: I agree with you, the chain, even if a little bigger than needed, are better than line of thread. I checked the online store where I bought them the first time, I need many more of them, about 7 meters should be ok. It is a French shop, but now they don't have them anymore, probably they will have them back in April, probably... So I started again to search for this damn chains, I found them in a UK shop, checked the size and the availability, all ok, ready to place the order (about 50 euros...) Then I remember: today is January 13! Since the f
  6. Thank you for commenting, Jim. I was almost sure that the smallest chains would fit for the sheets too, but your post makes me less confident. So I decided to make a quick fit test on the fore lower topsail yard, and this is the result: They are indeed too big, here is a pic of the actual size: Their size is similar to the footrope… So now I have to decide: is it better to have an oversized chain or a small black line of thread? I’ll be glad to hear your opinion and eventually other options. I have made also some tests with twisted c
  7. Thank you! After many hours spent on the model it's sometimes difficult to look at the build with fresh eyes and keep some degrees of objectivity. You may start to like something just because you are used to it. That's why it's important for me to have an external opinion such as yours. Bringing back memories about your grandfather and the time you have spent together is the best use one can think of this hobby. That's a great question! I spent a great deal of time looking for a proper chain in 1/96 scale and this is what I was able to find:
  8. Hello Bob, I didn't know this wonderful barque. I really like the lines and the overall appearance. I'm looking forward to seeing more progress!
  9. Crosstrees and mast caps The provided cross trees have holes for the plastic rat lines that have to be filled. There is also some plastic to be removed to clear the space between the fore and the after cross tree. I removed the plastic thumb cleats and rebuilt them out of a small brass rod. The original ones are bulky, fragile and misplaced. To make the new one, one end of the rod was made flat with flat pliers and bended backward to form the thumb cleat, while the rounded one is inserted inside pre drilled holes in the spreaders. Here you can see a work i
  10. Thank you for the detailed information. I think I will stick with this last version, now I know that it is at least plausible. You guys are really a great resource!
  11. Thank you, Shipman I use both copper and brass, depending on what I have at disposal. The small eyebolts made in the video are mainly used for the jackstay bars, so really low tension applied. The only tensioned eyebolt made in this way are the one on the davids and on the fish tackle, and they seem to stay in place till now, but I will add a drop of glue to be sure. Twisting the end together doesn't work for me because they become too bulky and they need big holes to be fitted in.
  12. Thank you, Dave. I considered this wooden deck, but they were too expensive for my firs ship build. They cost almost like the entire kit. But they seem to be good, maybe next time! Thank you Cirdan, I have made a small video to show you the eyebolt making process. Bear in mind that this is not the best way but just my own way. It is relatively easy and fast, but after a while it start to wipe out the last bit of mental sanity I still have ... I have made more than two hundred of this small guys and many more are needed..
  13. Mast detailing, painting and assembly. All the lower masts are divided into two shells. I glued them together, filled the gaps along the seams with putty and sanded the juncture in order to have a smooth surface. The kit provides a good detail in this area but some parts are missing or simplified. There are no futtock shrouds, for instance, so I placed hand made eyebolts for them on both sides of all three masts. Position, size and orientation are taken from Campbell’s plans. The jackstay on main and mizzen masts are simplified and oversized, so I removed th
  14. Another Cutty Sark! You are going pretty fast and the hull seems to be nice and smooth, good job!
  15. Thank you again Cirdan, really nice image! As usual, one question answered, two or many more opens. The forecastle is the same as the one shown by Campbell, but the bowsprit is completely different. Stays number and placement, footropes arrangement are similar to longridge version. The Revell kit is on the other hand seems to follow Campbell's plan, at least for the bowsprit shape and fittings. Oh, and the lifeboats location with relatives davits, moved forward in the picture... 😵
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