jaerschen

Here's another experiment with image stacking same procedure as above
 
 

 
Best,
Michiel

Trucks
 
I gave a bit of thought on the easiest way to make the Trucks (wheels) without resorting to using dowel - the grain would run the wrong way, although at this scale it would be difficult to pick the difference.
 
The Trucks are 4" thick, the Hind Trucks are 10.5" in diameter and the Fore Trucks are 12" diameter. On larger guns they were made from four pieces of timber with the grain running crosswise to each other and bolted together, but a 6-pounder's trucks were made from one solid piece.
 
I started off by cutting a strip of timber a little wider than the required diameter. I set up a simple stopper jig on my mill vice by CA'ing a couple of pieces of scrap to the top and drilling the 2mm centre hole. Then I cut the piece off square on the table saw.
 

 
To hold the piece into the lathe for turning the outside diameter I used a spare mandrel from my Dremel accessories. The screw was only 1.7mm, so I turned up a small brass sleeve to give a snug fit to the hole. When tightened it held the piece of timber beautifully.
 

 

 

 
I found it difficult to remove the truck from the mandrel, so I drilled a slightly smaller hole than the truck in a piece of scrap. By placing the piece over the hole I could easily remove it by pushing it into the hole :
 

 
There was a burr on one side of each piece after turning it, so to hold the rather awkward round piece without damaging it while sanding I drilled another hole in my piece of scrap which was slightly larger than the diameter of the truck and a bit less than it's thickness. The piece protrudes slightly from this hole, and a couple of wipes with a sanding stick soon removes the burr :
 

 

 

 
A view of the progress so far. The carriage sits on top of a 5 cent piece :
 

 
  Danny

The Rudder
 
Now the hull coppering is complete the only plating left to do is copper plate the rudder, but before that it needed sanding down, tapering it to about 3mm.
Coppering the rudder was probably the most fiddly part of all the coppering. When done the pintails were glued into position on the rudder I glued both parts on and then marked where they came on the keel post and then drilled it, then I added the straps to the rudder and cyano fix the rudder to the post and added the other straps to the hull, and to finish off painted the straps with copper paint.
.
First few plates on

 
A few more plates added

 
Plated and ready to fit

 
 
Rudder completed




 
 
 

Worked on some final tuning of the cannon, unfortunately it took me pretty much an entire evening to do a couple of 'small' things, adding the chains for the cotter pin, and the hinge for the cap square.  I cut each chain to length after having blackened it and attached some Caldercraft 2mm photo etch eyebolts at each end, drilled in the appropriate place and attached.  The hinge was made from wire bent to shape into two pre-drilled holes.  Think this looks much better than the suggested flat head pins to secure the cap square per the instructions.  Thanks once again to B.E. for the pointers.  Must confess I was very happy with the result and some useful skills learned, even though there were many frustrating moments. 
 
I still have the flintlock to install but I'll do that once everything is in place and rigged.
 

Hamilton - appreciate the support and kind comment, your Blandford is looking great as well!
 
Finally managed to get a good few hours in today and managed to get the channels and chains close to completion, only some final sanding and another coat of paint needed.
 
As I've mentioned, I was a little wary of the deadeye strops coming off the chains when I get to rig the shrouds.  To hopefully make this a bit more secure I used some epoxy in the channel slots.
 
Once all done, the instructions say to use 1.5x1.5mm strip to close the channels, only problem is that the channels are 2mm thick, so I decided to cut my own to be 2x1.5mm.  Think it looks more in keeping.
 
Onto something else...
 

Thanks Mark, Kevin, Aldo and Druxey.
 
Carriage Assembly Jig
 
I've made up a jig to assemble the carriages, I can do four at a time.
 

 
The one in the foreground is completed (for now), three are glued together in the jig, and one is being set up :
 

 
  Danny

I've been experimenting abit with Focus stacking, Here's one of my first attemps.
 

16 images with logitech c920 combineZP software
 
 
Does any one have more experience?

Well, Frank, as luck would have it you won't need to wait long (I usually make Sjors wait about a week).
 
The spritsail and running rigging has been COMPLETED !!!    
 

 

 

 

 
Just a few flag halliards and rope coils to finish up.  So I've given my loyal and trusty rigging spiders (at least) the next year off for good behavior.
 
Then we need to fabricate the anchors and associated tackle.  I'm going to try and make my own anchor stocks rather than use the castings so this could take another month    .
 
The yard is closed for the next several days ----- yeah......fishin'.
 
Y'all take care !
 
 
 

A belated thank you to Kevin and Tom.  I was out of town for the holiday weekend.
 
The hatch gratings come next.  The gratings are made of two different types of slats.  The athwartship pieces are thicker and are notched to accept the thinner un-notched fore-and-aft slats.  These thicker slats rest on the coaming rabbet.  The notches are 0.05" wide and 0.025" deep (scale 2.5" x 1 1/4").  Let me tell you my grating construction technique.  First cut stock for both types of slats.  Cut individual thick slats approx. the length required.  Glue their side edges together with PVA to form a multilayered sandwich.  This way, when the notches are cut you can be guaranteed they will match.  I deliberately keep one end ratty and the other end neat for polarity.  Set the saw blade to depth of the notch.  In this photo the kerf width is 0.045" but the width does not matter as long as it is thinner than the width of the slot. 
 

 

 
When I was building Hannah I made a grating jig for her at 1:36 scale.  I knew I would want a 1:48 jig at some point in the future and made one then, gluing the two jigs back-to-back for stability. 
 

 
To make the notches, place the jig over the blade and pull the jig gently away from the blade.  Secure the fence.  This defines one edge of the slot.  Cut the slot into the sandwich.  Then release the fence and push the jig against the blade.  Secure the fence and cut the other edge of the slot.  Move the jig over to the next position and repeat the process until done.  Be sure to add a few extra rows of slots in case your measurements are a little off or a piece breaks off during final shaping. 
 

 

 

 
Soak the sandwich in isopropyl until the pieces fall apart from each other.  Clean off the glue residue and they are done.  The same jig can be used to hold the notched slats in place while the thinner slats are glued in place.
 

I have good news:  Agent P is back
and he has brought incredible top-secret material from the armory of his Majesty of England.

The Guns of Caroline are not cast as profane ...... no no ................ from bones these guns are made.

Rotated on a special lathe (Unimat "SL"), but see for yourself:
 
 
The raw material is thoroughly selected
 
 
The various production steps
 
 
   
 
 
 
 
 
The trunnion holes are fixed for drill in a prism
 
     
 
Looks good
 
 

 
 
And here is the hero of the act .... Agent "P" 08/15 - 006   (with the license to fly)
 

 
 
 
Our department of decryption works  at full speed,
  to decrypt the rest of the top secret material.
Once the material is present, the rest of the report will following
 
Have fun

I'm going on with the rigging. Heart blocks are used for the mizzen and foremast shrouds and these are fixed to deck. I’ve attached also every possible standing and running rigging to the main mast at this stage. For convenience I’ve modified some cloth pegs which proved to be very useful.
 
 
 
For large and more detail photos see also:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilhan_gokcay/sets
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilhan_gokcay/sets/72157626433922489/
 

...

...

Here are the pics

Hi Juergen
It will be POF. I am currently sourcing the wood at the moment. I am considering beech or I might experiment with English oak for the frames. I am waiting for some samples to arrive so I can try cutting, shaping, sanding and see how it reacts before I decide.
The keel will be English oak.
 
I will post as soon as I have anything worth showing!
 
Chris

...

Thank you all, your comments are appreciated.
 
Several more pictures on the last week progress. Lower deck is now fully framed and I started working on the waterway and the planking above it.
 

Thank you,
Alexandru

Hello all,
 
Made some progress and here are the pictures.

Much thanks for the kind comment Timmo.
 
It's going on with the build. I added two rails during the last days.
But I want to display how make the planks above (or under) the gunports at first.
 
First step is to mark the position where the plank must be wider

 
Then I saw the plank with the bandsaw

 
and sanded it

 
Thereafter it must be fitted to the other planks. I did that with a chissel. That's the easiest way to do it for me.

 
Here you can see the result.

 
And now some photos of the current progress.





 

I finished the upper deck. Now I will cut a deal with the elements and gun ports. It's only fitting.

Well guys, after finally getting all the gun deck ports cut in and the framing of the gun deck done I went to work on the out side of the hull installing the main wale. Montagu main wale was four strakes of 8 1/2 inch thick planks, with the upper two being locked together and the bottom two being locked together. When I mean locked together am talking about a hook anchor type of plank. Peter Goodwin shows this in his book but I also found to primary plans of it one being the Elizebeth and ,Montagues. I like Elizebeth wale and also her other planking that Montaguplanking is taken after her. Being that I don't have any ideally of which type was applied, felt safe following her's. Now when it came to the thickness of this planking I decided to do it in two layers both being applied hook anchor type planking. Doing the first layer like this gave me a chance to practice before I layed the outside layer and once it was done,it was dyed black and given a coat or two of wax. I wanted a black wale but didn't want to mess with ebony and one can not tell the difference when you look at it with ebony laying next to it. Another one of those interesting items that was fun to do.






 





 



 

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 182 – Anchor Lining
 
 
Once the channels were finished, except for a few ringbolts, the anchor lining could be installed on the finished side. The anchor lining protected the hull planking from damage by the anchor after catting, when it was being lifted and secured to the side.
 
The first picture shows a layer of 3” thick planking being fastened to the wale.
 

 
From the top of the wale to the fore end of the fore channel, a panel of three inch planks was constructed. The next picture shows the supports for these, three stanchions.
 

 
I could find no spec for these so made them each a sturdy 6” x 6”. They are bolted at the channel and just above the top of the wale.
 
The last wo pictures show the finished installation.
 

 

 
 
Ed

Thanks for the kind comments Chris and Kevin,
 
You can ask what ever you want, that's a great help for me because I can improve my english .
 
@Kevin
It's much easier for me to construct the gunports at the right position instead to cut them in a closed hull.
I have some problems to make clean openings afterwards. One or two are not a problem, but this plenty of ports are a big problem for me. I don't feel like it.
The frames of beech are very solid. That's a help because I'll fit the details from the Gundeck upwards.
That's the main reasons why I decided to do it at this way.
Also it's a good exercise for me of a real planking and (a bit) constuction because I would like to finish my Triton anytime.
 
@Chris
The bulkhead drawings from McKay are showing all the frames that you can see at my model
The McKay bulhead drawings corespond to the original drawings and they are showing every second frame.
What drawings do you have Chris?

congrats Augie,
 
a gorgeous sight !!!!!!!