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Delphic Oracle

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  1. Here's a visual reference. Note all the char but you can see where I sanded the bottom right corner showing top layer, glue, and middle layer.
  2. Thank you very much for that, I think that's much more within my skill (and knowledge) range and a good bit more detailed than what is available out of the box with this kit. I did take a stab at doing the cross-cut overlapping corners. I think with a little more work on technique and I'll be up to it, but the basswood is not going to hold its edges at this scale. I expect that would have some disastrous implications around the time the shrouds come into play. So I'm definitely growing more comfortable with the idea of variables desired for woods in different parts of the ship :9. ETA: upon inspection, the tops and transom windows are on a 3-ply board. Very stiff. I almost suspected a thin ceramic layer in the middle. I sanded the safest corner, there are 3 layers, the glue reminds me of liquid nail. I was already considering a denser wood for the crosses and the rail, maybe something in between seems appropriate for the planking, as well given how much torque these can end up taking.
  3. Dmitry, thank you for sharing your experience with this kit. I have also seen from other build logs this level of attention is needed for the hull and also where I saw many people wisely using the time to knock out high-repetition tasks that happen down the road, as well. As to camera, I do see that this phone does have a pro camera mode and many features I am familiar with from my experience with production work. I never even hunted for it since upgrading some time ago. I have an older but versatile DSLR floating around somewhere, so I may dig it out when the time comes. Limited depth of field is one thing I notice in a lot of pictures as the builds get bigger and the shots wider. Thanks also for you words of encouragement and all of you dropping likes as you munch on the popcorn!
  4. I quite enjoy seeing this build coming together, she looks supremely impressive! Since diving back into this myself, I've become quite drawn towards the 17C Dutch designs. There's a few books I have my eye on, Ab Hoving's among them. Someday down the road I imagine a scratch build, perhaps also informed by any literature I can cobble together about common pirate "hacks." Your quality craftsmanship and wealth of improvisational solutions are an inspiration for me as I cut my teeth on this hobby. I also appreciate the natural color palette, pleasant and interesting without being "busy."
  5. Nasty weather thwarted my plans to get some card stock paper to copy plans onto (and other tasks down the road). But, as I've read in many other logs, when fairing is proceeding slowly, use the time to knock down some later tasks! So apparently I didn't flip over the laser cut sheet that has the tops and transom windows, they got scorched pretty badly. Once again, just an opportunity to learn another scratch technique. I figure I'm going to use up a lot of stock wood from this kit on practice attempts. My next acquisitions are a stand/sit desk (long term I have a bunch of 2x6 I will make into a sturdy, stained, and sealed top) and a rotary tool. Then I'll start planning out some custom wood acquisitions. But, anyways, I've given the crosstrees and trestletrees a go. First attempt (on bottom) quickly taught me to mark and cut them as pairs so they'll run square. The second one (on top) is much better. I don't think I would have been happy with just scoring the laser cut piece, anyways. Notching the planks where they overlap in the corners is going to be quite a feat to try, though. One big question I have, however, is the rim piece. In the kit this is also a single laser cut part and lays over the top of the planking. Is that accurate? Looking at a few scratch builds I tend to see multiple pieces of wood that appear to be wrapped around the outside and oriented perpendicular to the planks (tall/narrow rather than short/wide, so to speak). Thoughts and resources welcome.
  6. It has been a busy-ish week, so I've only had a bit of time to sand and file around the joint and clear a groove for the midships bulkhead. The vertical shims were 1/16" filed down a bit to match plan. When I added the 1/32" in the horizontal gap to dry fit test it "snapped" together and held the pieces together. Judging by eye, I will probably need a 1/32" shim in the forward wall of the channel for the middle bulkhead. I am starting to go through the bulkheads one at a time. Comparing to plan, verifying center, double-checking the reference line, testing symmetry, and other (pre-)fairing type tasks.
  7. "When a man who is honestly mistaken hears the truth, he will either quit being mistaken or cease to be honest." (unknown/various attributions) Thanks for choosing the former and welcome to MSW!
  8. Well I've not made it 43 pages, but you've done an amazing job. Being of similar era and same manufacturer as my current build, some of your early steps have already helped me visualize what's coming up. Good luck getting her last pieces together, it looks incredible!
  9. Wood filler around the joint and repairing the "B" bulkhead. I seem to have lucked out by only breaking "B" as it is the middle of the 3 forecastle bulkheads and I can inconspicuously install a brace. I tried to dab a little filler around it, as well. Alas, it got tacky on me before I made it that far, will do it properly once the brace is added later. Plus I shouldn't go manipulating (or adding potential reactants to) it while the glue is setting anyways. Patience!
  10. Big thanks for the support! She is pleasing to the eye and seems to be a not-overwhelming kit for stepping up to a new level. Thanks also to the thumbs-ups out there, they are appreciated :9.
  11. The fore frame came up notably short at the joint (way too tight bulkhead groove was the first clue), so some shims were added to allow full contact all around. trigger clamps for pressure, c-clamps to prevent twisting upwards, all secured to a framer's square and held upright on the bench vise. I gotta use what I got :9.
  12. Yes, the spacing on double-plank makes this cut very interesting. You may as well fashion your inner layer garboard plank(s) to near-completion as part of the dry fitting. I have found that laying the blade (facing up) against a plank pinned to the dry fit bulkheads to be a good tactile guide. Just one bulkhead distance at a time, I first let the grip roll in my fingers as the angle of attack changes. Then I start to let it roll my fingers along with it as I pick up on the rate of change. Over and over until I get a good feel for it. Then slide the bulkheads up for room to work and repeat the motion I absorbed to lightly score the cut several times. That scoring then serves as the guide for the more aggressive blade to go for depth. I score with #11 and cut with #19. The "back-rabbet" along the keel is what I still am working on mastering, however.
  13. I have a great appreciation for details that suggest activity and hint at a narrative :9. Fantastic work!
  14. To catch up to where I am, I've been practicing the rabbet cut on scraps. I'll call my first effort "not terrible." Not that it will matter when it comes time for the angle to have to match where the wood is, in my defense, it does a great job of being the rabbet at the "B" bulkhead (rather than the "D" according to the curve I drew).
  15. There she sat for a few weeks, though disassembled and neatly stacked. I'd put tools on my Christmas lists so I had to wait to see what Santa brung me. The family did a fine job. Clamp-on bench vise with swivel head and textured rubber jaws, Magnifier with light, Xacto basic set (not shown: trigger clamps, 1" 2" and 3" c-clamps, smooth-jaw micro clamps, hemostats, and more). Could not have done better. Finally getting into a little gluing and a little torquing.

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