Mirabell61

Building log part 10

machine well Skylights done, railings on boatsdeck and started on funneldeck

forecastle railing fixed

this and next Picture railings fixed

railings, pillars for boatsdeck and upper Bridge stachions painted white

stairs to upper Bridge fitted and all stairs painted

upper Bridge rim completed

prefitting for davits

outer Bridge rim White (except for soldering area of stair)

attaching middle wires of stairs to boatsdeck and railing

Build log part 11 to follow.....

Build log part 9

different size vents

machine room skylights

ongoing Fitting out

cross check with plan

starting to look like the Heinrich Kayser

copper Fittings from the crafters used for Basic funnel construction, have to do some cutting though

angle of funnels match mast angle

Building log part 10 to follow

I love the metal work.  It really makes a ship.

 

Bob

Bob

you are right, I feel the same, and have therefore gathered quite some experience in soldering (solderable metals) with either small gastourch or with soldering iron

Nils

Incredible craftmanship. I am impressed with all the details. When you finish your ship model, will you donate it to a nautical museum ? Your model is of museum quality.

 

Montani semper liberi    Happy modeling

    Crackers  

Crackers,

that idea is not completely out of this world, because I`m running out of space in my Hobby Office right now, I am 66 years old and I hope that they might find an honorable anchoring place in my childrens homes one day. Right now I have 2 steamships, two Tallships, and the uncompleted scratchbuilt 18th century Pegasus in Progress.

Besides that you might know or have experienced yourself, that the modelers fingers start itching when one gets mind-pregnant with the next "Project", at least the ideas Keep on sparkling...

It is since I had retired from my work that I again have time to go after this Hobby.

Cheers

Nils

Paul,

thanks for sharing your soldering excellent tutorial

Nils

Danny

I`m absolutely with Adam...

As you probably recognized, I`m taking a Little pause on my own P.Sue build, but seeing your fabulous work in process really encourages me....to get further going on it again

Nils

Hi S. Coleman, Tom and Daniel,

thank you for your appreciative words, I`m preparing to post Log parts 9 + 10 tomorrow morning, stay tuned

Nils

Hello Max,

a real Little Beauty is being created under your Hands, lovely build!

Nils

Michiel

your build is a delight to follow, I had an eye on the "Prins Willem" plan before I decided to go for the Pegasus.

Neat and tidy build, as well as splendid Quality, and handcraftship, shall follow this one further on

Nils

Build log part 8

template topview for boatdeck

checking Position of midship stairs down to Forward working deck

deckhouse stairs to boatstations

aftstair from boatdeck to working poopdeck

view backwards at this building stage

wooden planking of boatsdeck, here also the bearing Support-sleeves for taking up the Davits already mounted

main wheelhouse, Navigation room and officers duty station

freshwater storage tank with vent on top

Build log part 9 to follow....

well done Bob !

beautiful work, a pleasure to look at

Nils

Build log part 7

ship is now tugged out alongside the Fitting out quay of the yard

etched brass stairs

check, fit to scale approved OK

brass rim fitted to lower deckhousing, all around the boatsdeck

self explaining

in opposite to the workdecks the forecastle deck is Wood planked

the soldering Task gets a Little tricky here (too much heat in one place loostens the already tight neighbour ones again)

checking with plan, space requirements for boats, Davits and boat Access platforms

cardboard template for complete boat deck base

stanchions for upper Bridge fixed and soldered

note the workdecks are painted tan, "earthbrown"

self explaining...

Build log part 8 to follow....

Build log part 6

hold rim with removable hatchcovers

raw Forward mast

crows nest, the Access ladder from deck not fixed yet

take up Points for swivel loadbeams

after some paint touchups ...

plymsol marking at waterline

marking of Name and Registration port

These 3 pics..., quite pleased with the results so far

Build log part 7 to follow

Nils, I assume you made the rivet wheel (picture 2), can you tell us more about it? OOPS I found it!, Thanks

I also like the aluminum tape use for the riveted metal plates, Great start!

Hi Guy,

the toothwheel Comes from an old mantelclock-clockwork, obtained from a fleamarket, and so providing many individual brass toothwheels with different toothsizes.

thin wheels for single row riveting broader ones for Multi row riveting, etc...

From twinrow on upwards the toothbreadth would Need to be reduced by binging circular groves in like the Picture Shows. Provided you own a Hobby lathe and appropriate cutting chissels, no Problem..., if not, span the wheel on a Center fixed screw

span into your Drilling machine and tangentially (sturdy Hand!!) bring cutting side tooth-direction of your metalblade small handsaw into Operation, with running Drilling machine. Some Trials should be done with scrap- wheels before, to get the Feeling. The saw toothdirection must be in the "pushing mode" as if it were a chissel. Remove grit care fully and brush over with brass-brush, to slight break the sharp edges carefully.

Hope this is of help...

Cheers

Nils

Thank

Thank you so much for going to the trouble of making this log and sharing your incredible skills, this wonderful model, but most importantly bringing to life the history of the very real people and the ship itself!

 

For all of these reasons I can't wait to see the rest

Thank you Bindy for you nice words

It all was due to the nowdays possibilities via web for doing all this Research, for instance in gathering all available to myself historic US newspaper clippings, state archives, etc...

Nils

Hi Creackers,

this I have also asked myself many times, but it is also fact that from radiocalls received, the stearing rudderchain had broken in a full gale, making the vessel unmanouverable and probably immediately going square to the huge waves the hull rolling heavily, and fact is that the hatchcovers had been destroyed, this causing the uncontrolled take of water, until the ships superstructures could not withstand the stresses anymore. She may have sunk or suddely have broken through. We shall never really know what hapened in the last minutes

Nils

Richard

thanks for your word. Regarding to the plan I received it upon Special request from the birth shipyard (which does not actually sell plans of their builds), but I told about my personal relation to the ship because of a Research of the fate of itt foundering and the fate of my grandfather.

Nils

Bob,

thank you, I`m glad you like it

there is more to come soon

Nils

Build log part 5

for making the stand Posts I use brass candle holders (found on flee-markets)

the anchorchain port reinforcements are fitted

begin... rivited structure to deckhouses and hatch rims

further Fitting out

midship deckhouses, on deck inbetween the coal bunker hatchcovers

forecastle compartments

so far well under way...

workdecks ready for priming, painting

the figures are scale 1:100

the portside depth indications are in Roman figures

Build log part 6 to follow....

Build log part 4

characteristic for These old steamships are the large vents, necessary more than ever when going through hot,tropical zones of calm sea...

Here is to give my Version of the vent Hood making..., and the main masts, and crows nest

sizes and types of vents

an Arrangement of inlet and outlet vents

prefit check with the decks

application of primer after soldering and cleaning the brass surfaces

was quite a bunch of individual parts

inner Hood surfaces have their own color

as well as the outside surfaces

Forward and aft mast

do not throw away your old dome-nuts, they serve for exellent venthoods

especially those where the dome Shell is made and brased on of thin pressed sheet

Build log part 5 to follow.....

Hello Nils,

 

I am really overwhelmed by your build... This is modelling on its top-level. I will follow your log and I am very very curious to see the progress.

 

Good luck and a lot of fun

 

 

Max aus Hof in Oberfranken

Hello Max,

what a cute member Icon you have, gives me a smile on monday morning. Thanks for your words, and enjoy the further parts of the Heinrich Kayser build log

Nils

Building log part 3

brought on White primer coating and Sub waterline red

the last Picture where the hull is still fixed to the baseplate. The upper hull portions shall be plated and painted when the decks have been permanently mounted

hull seperated from baseplate, all went well, no Twist, no destortions

extreme lightweight hull, prop- and ruddershaft already mounted, superstructure for deck Support can be seen

riged structure in forecastle area

decks made from 1,5 mm thick 4-layer Aeroplywood

the Forward maindeck, 3 hatches, and the quite Long poopdeck, 2 hatches,(working decks) are going to be metal plated. These decks were of steel plating due to rough cargo handlingand overcoming heavy seas. The cardboard template behind hatch #4 Shows the riviting pattern for deck plating

hatch # 1 behind the forecastle bulkhead

bow section before finalizing the decks and the final plating

raw workdecks mounted, midship deckhouses started, hull painting done and forecastle bulleyes mounted. It`s now slowly looking like a ship should be...

Build log part 4 to follow.....

The anchors are made of brass.

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to be continued ...

Congrats Johann,

you have delivered first class work in admirable Performance and Quality, also the photos are great, in all a delight to see

Nils

Well, I was hoping to see this section. Great work on metal plates Nils. 

 

I'm curious about the tool that you used for marking plates. Can you show us ?

 

Thanks, Bugra.

Bugra,

upon your request, here a short intercourse and self explaining use of the plate marking tool.

By the way, I use this method on all model hulls that are of rivited structure, only the tooth modul sizes differ acc. to the appr. scale Chosen. The holders for the toothwheels are made from old paintbrushes that would go to the bin otherwise.

Cheers

Nils

different wheel (toothsizes, and toothnumbers, also requires a semi soft rubber plate underneath and of course the precut plate

(turn around the plate, so the protection foil is up....

use a metal ruler, or like here a masons tool, leave plate edge free

the roller tool, use Dremel with circle sawblade to cut in the two circular grooves for obtaining 3 toothrows instead of one

press tight down the roller tool and move swiftly Forward in one move. Same time press down the ruler

looking at the marked edge from the rear side

looking at the result of the rivit resembling, (here 3-row riviting)

remove the protection foil, Keep the gluefilm side free from dust and debris

Happy exercising and good success

Nils

Very nice mate real nice. :D

Thank you rpeteru

Nils