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  1. Hello. I have question about a component of rope stropped blocks - grommet. https://www.duckworksmagazine.com/02/articles/woodenblocks/woodenblocks.htm https://forum.game-labs.net/gallery/image/559-32-lb-carronade/ I would like to make (copy) the USS constitution's rope stropped blocks. (See the left corner of the picture.) To complete the rope stropped blocks, I prepared 4 components. a) 3D printed double block (2.7mm x 3.1mm x 2.9mm) b) metal thimble extracted from accesories c) 3 stranded thicker rope (Gutermann Mara 120, about 0.60mm)
  2. Now I knew an original form of a toy I played! I played and made 'science box' series which seems very similar to the Gilbert erector set series. Amazing. 😍 (example picture)
  3. Plastick kit was dominant model hobby in South korea when I was a child and it is still be. I remember that I made my own diorama toolkit box which included colored dusts, glues, bonds, and pliers to assemble war vehicles and express battlefield. I found the toolbox recently, and extracted some useful things such as dried enamel paint and pliers. Resin bonds are gone, but enamel paints works agains after I refilled white spirits a little bit.
  4. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carronade I referred the HMS Victory's 68 pounder carronade. Of course, the kit has no spare blocks and rigging threads, so I decided to buy them at local hobby shop. Looks like the artesania 3mm double block is only option I can buy directly in Seoul... Wait... ...... I decided to make my own double block using 3D printer. I read some DIY double block guides on internet, and immitated them. After some trials and errors, I successfully co
  5. I slightly fixed windlass to be more realistic. I liked the matt black colored chain, but its size (4.40mm x 3.40mm) is not realistic. So, I bought new antique color chain. (2.00 mm x 1.70 mm) Too much exaggerated expression looks cheap. The manual doesn't show anchors' design, so I copied another schooner's design. Insufficient manual made me to study cathead. I had to research what kind of cathead is in her. I'm not sure it's co
  6. I bought an upgraded version of the wireless compressor. Its price is about $50. The white toggle switch is power button. This is power port. It comes with USB cable. Its battery time is about half hour, but I can use it while in charging. The reason it is called second generation of wireless compressor is that it has pressure sensor inside. The first and cheaper version has no pressure sensor, so they blow air always. If you use it with regular airbrush, the inner pressure will increase till the end! To avo
  7. Sorry for wrong post. I misunderstood a concept of this device and performed reckless modification. I checked all the manual and description, and found that this is a special machine. His manual is very compact, but very dense. I shouldn't have skip some sentences. I believed that this machine can do anything because of the most expensive price, and the self illusion made me to modify it to be an universal machine. I was yelling that my new motor boat is not flying, and was welding wings. 😂 I followed the instructions, and (heavily modified) Domanoff PL4-4
  8. As Cleek said, it has felt inside to give smooth friction, but I would say that it is mechanically insufficient. Since I added screw tension on supply bobbin, it rotates like a jammed roller. (source: https://www.compadre.org/nexusph/course/Friction ) It can be explained by static and kinnetic friction. Threads have elasticity like rubber band, so cohesive force breaks the maximum static friction point. Unfortunately, it can't continue to draw following thread at low speed and stop again. I would say that the bumpy bobbin happens remarkably at lower speed. As I in
  9. You got a point. It was my next trouble immediately encountered, and it almost drove me to despair. It is very difficult to maintain same tension with the bolt tension system. Here are some tips I found. (1) Tighten all the bolts as much as possible. (Just below the cutting level) It usually works well with strong threads such as serafil polyester thread. (2) Do a massage after rope making is done. The massage means twist and untwist all the wire slightly. It spreads the 'waves' evenly. Domanoff's system is only half meter size while conventional ropewalk requires several mete
  10. While I was investigating malfuntioning, I found that I missed key factor to run ropewalk. Tension must be tight to get a firm result. I planned to add tension control system to the right direction only, but it had to be bidirectional strong tensions... At first, I tried to reinforce the wood bolt R-clip with washer, but it didn't help because the bobbins need delicate tension control. They should have not tight and not loose tension. Probably the best tension control device is this. However, I can't add it to Domanoffs' because it needs extra
  11. I finished to modify PL4-4. I reused most parts from stock and spares, so it didn't cost a lot. I can control all the system with one hand. Some parts like this long screw thread were hard to get, so I connected two common bolts. To use the bolts, I cut the bolt head with Proxxon table saw and HSS metal blade. It was extremely difficult and dangerous. It scattered sparks all over the places and it literally melted down. 😨 In addition, I changed the problematic stock bobbin ho
  12. I designed new frame to install the new bobbin winding system. It needs more space. Also, I added space for soundproof shelter It is all I can do for now. I need some bolts to finish the mod.
  13. I learned new word that my pedal switch is called momentary switch. I may need non-momentary knee switch for longer work.
  14. You're absolutely right. I'm using foot pedal switch, and it is 100 times better than controlling knob.
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