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modeller_masa

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  1. If you are IT guy, I would say that cheap Chinese mini CNC machine will be a good solution. I would like to recommend a relatively simple 3018 CNC with embedded x-y-z axis joystick. The price is about $200.
  2. Popeye the sailor // I would say that the Robotime chose level of completion instead of same scale and unity. Their series of doll house have different scales, but the each model's design sense is very attractive. It is bad that I can't make one big doll house by putting together them, but great for sole present. The reason I don't want to touch a structure thing is that one of my close relative is a famous retired architecture professor. If I make a building model, his pupils will laugh at low level of reality. It feels like checking with a retired ship carpenter about my model ship. Fortunately, he really loves my wooden model ship. Lou // I've already replaced most of my book to digital scanned books for same reason. I want more docks to build another ship.
  3. The LED assembly part is not polished and easily breakable. Someone who uploaded walkthrough movie on the Youtube skipped or modified the LED part to less complex structure such as 1 LED lamp instead of 4 LED lamps. The other parts are super easy and flawless like the Bandai's Gundam models. I would say that the LED light should have made the kit 100 times better!
  4. Thanks for your comment, Yves. I couldn't close my eyes when I first saw this kit. I hope the Robotime will make better doll house kit in the near future.
  5. That article made me to buy this kit. I made my kit for the past week to get a rest. I spent approx. 12 hours. Overall, this is a very good kit unlike most of china cheap goods. I would say that this company has very talented people like the Trumpet or Meng. Unfortunately, the LED parts is gone while I was finishing assembly. The reason of LED fail was an insufficient assembly guidance and inaccurate manual like most wooden model ship kit does. That's an only issue of this kit. Almost perfect! Now it's a time to go back to the priority project...
  6. Thanks, popeye. The roof part determines 90% of this kit's charming point.
  7. Thanks for your comment, Egilman. I should recreate myself for a while. A good result is residue of enjoying mind.
  8. I made a new jig for same height adjustment. Much easier than before. Very slow work. I already gave up finishing on time.
  9. The AL's the last legacy! Thank you for uploading.
  10. I replaced paper chimneys to MDF blocks. However, When I tried to apply them... I found that the angle is different due to my new MDF structure. Tomorrow, I'll cut the roof simply, and place the cube chimney on it. The balsa reinforced ridge is flexible for this kind of job. By the way, you may be interested in the blue and green 4.5 strips. It is a distance between roof tiles. I calculated the number from manual, and... It is verified. I made the paper sticker rulers using powerpoint and laser printer. Due to a MDF structure, I had to make new roof ground. (Check the orange cardboard.) The ruler sticker will help me to draw guide lines with masking tape.
  11. This is really challeging issue. To get the best result, I tied tiles together at corner. This method took TWO HOURS to do this picture only. I simplified the first method a little bit as you see. The second method took ONE HOUR to do same amount of part. Still slow , but the quality is similar. The third method that manual explained may take about 10~20 minutes to do same amount of work. However, it is not beautiful. In reality, The first method is more like a real arlington row, but the block's scale is too big. (1/18~1/24) For this Ho scale (1/87) kit, The third method is more like realistic at distant view although the roof tiles are too big. I have no time, but I don't want to lower quality...
  12. That's a point. I'll give a finished kit to someone this week. The person doesn't have knowledge of modelling hobby, and usually likes a neat and clean things like many common people. I would say that the person won't like weathered model, and it is one of the reason I made a GLOSSY acrylic base and case. My minimum goal is a picture on an original package. If I didn't have a due date, (Actually, the birthday was last week...) I would have added drain pipes and terrains just like your picture.
  13. I tried to attach a thermal transfer paper on acrylic panel... Failed. Looking for the other ways. The most famous and best solutions cost a lot. (over $30) Finished to build a bottom of roof . Started to attach roof tiles... Why didn't I use a masking tape? It works like a superman. I thought the roof tiles are better than wall blocks. NO. Every tiles are not SQUARE. I have to sand them all... Phew. Also, the size of the tiles are super different that makes ugly pattern. I decided to make a jig that produces exact same parts. After thousands of seconds... I made a simple jig for adjusting length of tiles to 10.0mm simultaneously. Adjusting method is a screw bolt. Attached UHMW tapes to lower friction. Works fantastic! I should have made the jig when I started!
  14. After 4 days, I finally finished polishing work. The wall is done. I used a cheap multi-use water based matte varnish. The stone really absorbs water quickly, so the brushing a varnish was smooth work. I satisfy the result of the varnish. This will be a final showcase. I already received acrylic panels for case asembly, and I'll paste the texts on the transparent front window using transfer paper. I'm testing the two kind of transfer paper to get the best result (water based transfer paper and thermal heat transfer paper)
  15. The wall is almost done. Making the balsa block ridges was easy task thanks to a mini belt sander, but the placing a roof was really time consuming hard work. I'll go to a roof after more tuning - filling the gaps and polishing edges. Three days left, but i'll keep going on. A new due date is a next week.

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