Jump to content

Brewerpaul

Members
  • Content Count

    145
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Brewerpaul

  • Birthday 06/27/1950

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    www.busmanwhistles.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Frederick,MD
  • Interests
    Music- listening and playing and instrument making
    Electric biking
    Hiking

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Adjusted the hawse holes last night. I expanded the out of whack holes with twist drill bits, turned by hand without a drill. Once I had them large enough to fit a Dremel side cutting bit I inserted small pieces of dowel of the right size so I could visualize how much out of whack they were and in what directions. Pulled out the dowels and used the Dremel bit to manhandle the holes into shape. That done, I coated the dowels with beeswax for anti stick properties, put them back into the holes at the appropriate angles, then filled the gaps with wood filler. All in all they look pretty good. I t
  2. Thanks Bob-- be sure to post a log when you start yours. I'd love to follow it. I fashioned and installed the hawse timbers yesterday and have found it be a big pain trying to drill the hawse holes. They run from up to down, port to starboard, and fore to aft. I took my best shot with a 1mm drilled pilot hole but missed the mark. Any good ideas how to do this accurately? I've enlarged the holes with successively larger drills and they're moderately out of whack. My plan for now is to reshape and relocate the holes with small round diamond files, then repair the surrounding damage
  3. I got the planking installed and stained,Minwax Golden Oak (which I had lying around from an old project). No subdeck, but the planks laid out pretty well with a 3 plank repeat. The first coat of stain revealed spots where glue didn't allow it to take, but I expected that. Sanded and scraped* those down, and the second stain came out pretty even, so I'll quit while I'm ahead. I'll give it a day or two for the stain to fully dry, then poly coat it. BTW-- I didn't bother darkening the edges of the planks, figuring that stain would accumulate there and make the joints visible,which seems to have
  4. I think I solved the out of whack mainmast problem. While fiddling around with the tenon on the mast, one of the plywood scrap pieces that the former kit owner had glued delaminated so I had to remove the rest of it for replacement. What I found was excess glue from his work inside the remaining scrap piece, enough to shift the foot of the mast and account for the out of whackedness. I temporarily snugged up my somewhat loose tenon with paper and with a new piece of scrap wood (not plywood) the mast looks pretty darn close and should be shimmable to vertical. Went down to Baltimore yester
  5. Lowe's finest, despite some recommentations against using wall paint. I can supply the exact color for any builders who might want to go that route.
  6. That's fascinating information even though I don't plan on any sail on my Pride of Baltimore II. Speaking of which, the POB has been closed this season due to COVID-19 so a lot of the volunteer maintenance done before each season has almost literally gone by the board. However, they are farming out smaller jobs which volunteers can do at home in the form of a "project in a box". I signed up for that and yesterday went down to Baltimore and picked up a mahogany bench from the below decks navigation station as well as all supplies,some tools etc and detailed instructions on how to proceed.
  7. Gregory-- you mean you construct the entire deck off the ship and then just glue it down? How do you bend nibbing planks without butting them up against the planksheer? I had speculated on building the deck off the model, but several people advised against it. Update a few minutes later; I just looked at your quarterdeck and answered my own question about nibbing.
  8. You ain't kidding Doc! Since my last post I've planked my POB and it came out pretty well, thanks to filler. I still haven't added the transom though. The issue now is how the toprail of the ship,which I haven't installed yet, will intersect with the transom. I'm holding off on the bulwarks and rail until after I do the deck, to make the planking and nibbing more accessible. She'll remain sternless for a while I'm afraid.
  9. Thanks for the food for thought. Glenn-- if we have different kits, what was yours? The one I have is the only one I've seen, Offhand, my bulkheads don't look bad having laid a half dozen or so deck planks down on them. They seemed pretty level. I'm thinking that maybe I'll make a dummy subdeck out of file folder material,temporarily glue it down with tiny drops of CA, and see how flat it looks. If it looks flat enough, I could use David's suggestion of a 1mm subdeck and .5mm planks. Cornwall has Cherry strips, and I love the look of Cherry so I'd probably use that even if it's
  10. A false deck would raise deck above the sheerplank I think. Is the false deck to keep the planks even and make it unnecessary to end the joins at the bulkheads?
  11. Thanks-- I think I will cut the planks,making sure the joins end up on a bulkhead. I'm not sure how a mast slot could be off in the port/starboard direction since it's just a slot in the keel covered by two scraps. Still, I'll investigate that further. For the bulwarks the plan shows 5 1/32" (x16" I'm assuming) planks topped with a single 1/32x3/64" plank. Those are not in the kit,or even on the parts list. I'm thinking to just use one of the 1/32 x 1/16" planks turned 90degrees. Make sense? On a pretty exciting note, I'm going to be helping to restore the actual Pride o
  12. Quandry/problem time. The quandry is whether to do the bulwarks or the deck first. It would seem that doing the deck before installing the bulwarks would be easier since the planks could overlap the planksheer during nibbing. On the other hand, I'm leery about gluing my transom (once I have the lettering figured out) before installing the bulwarks in fear of not having the top rail being level. One option I guess is to make a temporary partial aft bulwark,gluing the planks to the stanchions with rubber cement or just pinning them, to check how the height of the bulwark matches the transom
  13. Me again...Andy, did you ever get to finish your POBII? I'm at the point of making my transom and am curious how you ended up doing the lettering. I'm nowhere near there yet but I'd love to see how you did the masts and all spars. Also your paint on the hull.
  14. Your stern came out just fine. If I don't come up with my own solution, would you mind if I stole yours? Someone from the actual Pride was kind enough to send me two stern photos which I think may work.
  15. The PRIDE OF BALTIMORE II are indeed incised and it looks like they have gold leaf applied. I don't know anyone with the equipment to do that, and in any event the letters will be pretty darned small.
×
×
  • Create New...