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About Brewerpaul

  • Birthday 06/27/1950

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    Music- listening and playing and instrument making
    Electric biking

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  1. Woo hoo! My first planks! OK, they're probably the simplest planks on the whole ship, but they give the model a bit of a shiplike appearance,rather than just a bunch of bulwarks. I did have to shape the part that went into the stem, and found that I had to fair the top edge of a couple of bulwarks so that was a bit of practice. I'm not exactly sure what happens with the top few planks past the last bulkhead, so I've left that unglued for now. Do they extend to the transom and get butted there?
  2. That's what I thought. Like making dollhouse furniture. BTW-- I couldn't tell from your build log, but did you leave holes in the deck for cabins, hatches, or just plank the whole deck and then cement them down. I liked your idea of painting the planksheer before installing it, and I'm planning on carrying it a step or two further. I'm going to paint the first plank next to the planksheer black, and do the wales in yellow now. Maybe even paint the first plank below the wales black so I don't have to paint the borders between black and yellow at all.
  3. Checked my parts list and I DO have all of the laser cut sheets,complete. That still leaves a lot of parts that I will need to fabricate; transom, fancy piece at top of transom, pin rails, channels, fife rails etc. So, my question still stands-- how do you get the dimensions or profiles of all of those parts transferred from the plans onto the stock timber?
  4. Thanks. I will indeed check the parts list. I'm only doing single planking on this, unless I really screw up and have a lot to hide 😉 You mean a filler in addition to the nose filler? Easy enough. It just has to match the curve of the bulkheads,right?
  5. Slow progress, but I'd rather get it right. The keel and sternpost are back on my Pride after I've deepened the rabbet. Every build log that I've seen says that the planksheer is too short, but mine seems to be OK. Should I be worried? I have no idea when this second hand kit was purchased, so maybe MS has fixed that issue. In my photo the planksheer is just sitting on the bulkheads, not glued yet. I've seen some builds that add that first plank at the top of the bulkheads first, then adding the planksheer. Does that make more sense than doing the planksheer first? I think it would give a good reference plane for creating the planksheer overhang. In either event I plan to paint the planksheer,that plank, and maybe the first wale plank before installing them to keep the demarcations nice and sharp. I added new stern filler blocks and have been shaping them. I've found it unexpectedly difficult to turn the 2D images on the plan into a 3D block. I'm not quite done with it yet but I think it's pretty good so far. One thing-- that flat area that slopes forward from the aft end of the stern has come out narrower than on the plans. Does mine look OK? One more question. I'm surprised how relatively few laser cut parts there are, leaving the builder to fabricate tons of parts from stock. I'm OK with that, but not sure the best way to get the desired shapes onto the wood. For the stern blocks, I made a photocopy of the 2D profiles on the plan, cut them out, and traced them. Anyone know a better way? Thanks!
  6. Ha ha! I cleaned up my workbench when I finished my last build. I started my POB and a day or so later it looks as disorganized as before.
  7. Thanks Glenn-- you've sold me on abandoning the idea of building a whole deck off the ship and then fitting it. I had anticipated the glue stain problem and thought about staining all of the planks before gluing them together to avoid glue rejecting the stain. I'll have to think about putting the stem and keel on before planking. A compromise might be to do the first couple of planks without the stem then see how trimming them works. I'm not there yet though. I kind of didn't think that slight bow would be a noticeable problem, but this is my first POB build so I wasn't sure. I think I'll just leave it alone.
  8. I removed the keel and stempost to give me better access to improving the rabbet. I also removed the stern filler blocks which were pretty poorly done. Luckily I have enough of that basswood piece to make 3 new ones. I discovered one problem and am debating on if it's worth trying to fix. Sighting down the center keel I noticed a slight bowing. Laying a straightedge on it shows a bow of about 1/16". I found that I can straighten this by putting a snug fitting block of scrap wood between two bulkheads in the concave part of the bow, but this brings those two bulkheads out of parallel. Which would be more likely to be a problem; leaving the bow,which is pretty slight, or correcting it and dealing with the out of whack bulkheads when fairing the hull? I'm considering leaving the keel off until after planking. It seems that this would make fitting the ends of the plank easier,rather than fussing to get them to fit snug against the keel. I'd just sand off the extra level with the center keel and then reattach the keel. Anyone done a hull this way? Another unrelated idea which sprung into my head at 2AM one morning. I am thinking of planking the deck with full length strips,scribing individual plank lines afterwards. Why not glue all the deck planks edge to edge FIRST, then make a cardstock template of where the deck will go, transfer that to my glued planks, cut and trim the deck and then just glue it down in one swell foop? Crazy,right? One advantage would be to let me securely attach things like the fife rail from below in addition to just gluing it on top. I could even stain and finish the deck before gluing it in place. Just a thought...
  9. I bought my Pride of Baltimore on eBay from a modeler who had started the kit. The keel, sternpost, transom fillers and bulkheads were already glued. The rabbet was cut, but it needs quite a bit more work. I removed the keel and sternpost so I can more easily rework the rabbet without damaging the keel. The transom fillers were not good, so I removed them and will make new ones. Finally, to my question... sighting down the center keel, there's an visible bowing. It's not a whole lot, maybe 1/16" gap when a straightedge is laid along the keel. By flexing the bulkheads ( H and I) in the bowed area, I found that I can straighten out the bow by separating two of the bulkheads on the concave side of the bow. I fitted but haven't glued a block of scrap 2x4 to make the separation. Problem is, this takes these two bulkheads out of parallel. Is it worth fixing the bow as I've temporarily done? Will the out of wack bulkheads be a problem in fairing and/or planking? Maybe split the difference and make this block narrower to partially straighten the bow while keeping the bulkheads more parallel?
  10. I just ordered the Harbor Freight version, whose price has soared to $33 plus shipping 😉 Has anyone tried thin wall brass telescoping tubing with this? I use that for the tuning slides on the Irish penny whistles I make, and I haven't found a terrific way to cut it cleanly without deforming the tube.
  11. BTW-- I don't know if I'd call it a kit bash, but I'm planning on de-modernizing this ship to make it look more from the age of Baltimore Clippers. I plan on leaving off the radar gear, props, simulated rubber anti-slip pads, etc. Any suggestions of other things I could omit or change?
  12. I haven't started planking my POB II but I've been reading a lot about it as planking is the one thing I'm particularly apprehensive about on this build. Planking on my Constitution cross section was trivial, with all short,straight run planks. It seems that a LOT of work goes into trimming and fitting planks so they fit well into the rabbet and flush against the keel/sternpost. Why not leave the keel and sternpost off for now, carve the rabbet and just begin the planking,leaving a small bit of overhang. Once done, it would see that it would be easy to cut or sand off that overhang and only then add the keel and sternpost. Before gluing it, you could check to make sure the planking doesn't need a tad of thinning to sit flush. Anyone do it this way? If not, why not?
  13. Welcome to my shipyard! Pull up a chair, 'cause I'll be asking for a LOT of advice as the build goes on I got this kit on eBay for $75 including shipping. Being retired, I have to be a bit frugal, plus I know that this kit will end up costing more in terms of paint,glue and tools. Here's the thing of it; the kit was started by the person I bought it from .You can see the extent from the pictures. The bulkheads seem pretty straight but if I understand it's purpose correctly, I'm not sure the rabbet is well done,particularly where it widens near the sternpost. It doesn't seem deep enough and should have been thinned down more at that wide stern area. It basically needs to be deep enough so that a plank sits flush with the surface of the keel,right? If that's correct, I'll have to modify the rabbet but that seems like it would be difficult to do without damaging the adjacent keel extension. Think I ought to cut that and the sternpost off and then reglue them after I modify the rabbet? The person who started the kit didn't add the waterline reference marks. From what I've read in the kit manual, those are basically for getting the bulkheads to the correct depth on the keel. Mine appear to be OK, so will I need those marks for anything else later on? There's a piece of plank or batten attached, although I don't know why. Any ideas? I'll probably just remove it and add those as needed. Does it look like there's enough "meat" left on the stern filler blocks to shape them properly? Thanks in advance for any and all advice and suggestions. I've bookmarked several other builders' logs and will refer to those often.
  14. The slots on my ancient aluminum mini miter box are getting sloppy and while looking for a new and better one I came across this; https://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-Mini-Miter-Cut-Off-Saw Does anyone own one of these or have experience with it?

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