
Geam
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Decided that the R/C gear should be installed before the standing rigging. All that string would make it difficult to access the interior. Hope all this wire (inside and outside) won't
interfere with the R/C signals!
I think I have worked out how to make a roller furling gear for the genoa. Ordered in some bits for that yesterday.
George
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Rigging start has been delayed until sunday/monday. Took much longer to cut out coach roof treadmaster than expected. Needed a few extra scissor-breaks to ease the
brain cellsbrain cell so it didn't go on strike.I think the dark-ish grey contrast colour makes the coach roof look a bit too busy, The full-size Fishers usually have a lighter shade. I could try to paint it with thinned acrylic but I think I'll wait to see if it fades a bit in the summer!
George
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Been 'wielding' the scissors for two days now and cutting out all the 'treadmaster' patches for the coach roof sections. Stepped the masts this afternoon just to give myself some inspiration to keep cutting. Should be ready as planned to start the standing rigging for the masts by saturday. Friday afternoon is when we 'close shop' for a while and make something 'exotic' in the kitchen (to eat!) So one hour more with the scissors and ...I wish all a pleasant
, safe weekend!
George -
Just for my amusement I added navigation and cabin lights during the weekend. Working lights were not part of the original plan and because of this, I could not find a decent way to route the wires for a white stern light. Of course I could probably have found a way, but as this yacht will certainly only be used in daylight there was not much point in overdoing it! The upper lights -inside the wheelhouse- need to be subdued by painting the bulbs red although some of them (at deck level) have been routed through red plastic milk-skake straws! There is also some light 'leaking' through the epoxy joins so that will also need attention.
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Thanks Andreas, I was impressed too when I switched them on!
I have now (last night) painted bright red acrylic paint on the white bulbs in the wheelhouse to reduce the brightness and make a sort of 'night-light' effect.
I think I will plan for working navigation lights on the Colin Archer. It will be easier to fit if I plan for it early in the build. I will at least put in wiring for a stern light this time! Also under deck to the shrouds for P&S lights. Maybe I will be allowed to have the boat on show in the sitting room with lights 'on' during the winter evenings! I seem to remember you wrote about installing lights in your Colin?? Any tips for choice of lighting Andreas / Carsten ?
On the Fisher I did not originally plan for having working lights. so I have used lights for Christmas decoration! Small 'grain of wheat' LED bulbs -about 10 small bulbs- on 1 meter of wire!! I just just threaded them through to the nav-lights in the wheelhouse roof and then down to the floor level. Not very professional 🥴 but very cheap! Works on 3 AA batteries in a battery box. I am not sure if these will affect the operation of the R/C equipment but they will not be switched 'on' when sailing the Fisher. I will buy dedicated model boat lights for the Colin Archer I think -but don¨t know what to buy yet. I think Krick Ro-Marine make good light sets.
George
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Finally managed to produce the FWD window unit complete with a Wynn linear windscreen wiper. I see now (too late) that I should have used slightly wider strip to make the 'aluminium' window frames. This would have made it easier and tidier to glue in the window glazing. Any way, this weekend will hopefully see the whole wheelhouse section looking more complete.
Next is the coach-roof sections.
George
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I've been planning building sequences and doing some small jobs on the Fisher but I can't say there's been much noticeable progress. I've been 'hovering' around the fact that I have to get going with gloss paint on the coach roof and wheelhouse roof sections. Made the grab-rails and 22 small stand-offs/bases. The grab-rails will be glued onto the bases after the coach rooves are glossed white. The requirement for removeable top sections is causing some head-scratching as to where to cut for the joins to be least noticeable, but generally all joins/cuts will have to be abeam the main mast P&S.
The photo shows the grab-rails just loosely placed on top of the bases. The wheelhouse FWD window frame is also just 'placed' -not glazed yet nor faired/glued in place
George
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Build progress:
Started getting tired of painting white cabin-roof panels! Just one more undercoat to apply then sanding down for the gloss finish. Gone over to an attempt at wheelhouse interior furnishing and upholstery. Curtain material used on the cushions is a bit thick -which resulted in untidy corners. Will tidy it up a bit later. I wanted to try making the 'dolls-house' furniture and fittings for a while before going back to painting. Wheelhouse interior now with upholstery and teak stain on the woodwork. Front window frame is not glued on yet -just sitting loose.
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Received info' from the Maritime Museum about the Colin Archer RS14 'Stavanger'. Also a reference to the book by Bjørn Foss about the rescue ships -'redningsskøyter'- .
RS14 was the 2nd of the 'Svolvær' type vessels. RS 12 "Svolvær" was the 1st of these. The Svolvær types were 35 cm longer than the Colin Archer type (RS1, RS 6, RS8 and others) and were 5cm narrower and 5cm less draft. The masts and sailplan were not changed from the original RS1. There was also a lager (heavier ?) keel. The bow shape above the waterline seems to have a bit more rake -looking slightly more 'streamlined'. Ref; a drawing in the Bjørn Foss book.
In my mind there should be no real problem to use the Billing Boats RS1 kit to produce a model of the newer (from 1897!) Svolvær types vessels.
It will be interesting (for me anyway) to hear from Andreas Sundt later when he has visited the RS14 at the museum in east Norway.
George
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I have been advised by a Colin Archer rescue boat expert that the RS14 version was not the same hull shape as the RS1. So to be authentic, the second Colin Archer kit will have to be built as one of several other versions: RS6, RS10 or about 3 other build numbers. Not very important actually. So long as the correct number is on the sail hardly anyone would notice the difference...Oooops I should not be saying such things on this site!