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Schooners

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  1. Jond Thanks for you kind words, we all bring a different set of skills to this hobby and it is fun to see the varied techniques people use. I am an engineer by trade and have been using 3D modeling software for over 20 years. I enjoy building the ship on the computer and then seeing the real deal come to shape. I echo everything Allen above has said. I would consider my adventure with the planner a failed experiement for accurate and repeatable thicknesses of thin wood strips. The thickness sander is the way to go and I have heard several people speak highly of the
  2. I am working on the top deck and started with the hawse timbers and knighthead. This is the drawing from LB Jenson. They are made from multiple timbers stacked at an angle. I took a stack of 1/4" wood and glued them together. Then carved and sanded the piece. View of the outside and inside. On the inside only the flat surface matters as it is glued to the keel. This is before installation and after: One small detail the LB Jenson drawings do not correctly show is the way the bearded line moves further from
  3. The ship is out of the fixture, never to return, so I built a simple stand that allows me to rotate the model side to side. It holds the ship level at the waterline. Here I am installing the lower deck beams, the aft main cabin beams have not been installed yet These lower deck beams were relatively easy to make. First I cut strips of wood that were the same width of the beam and the other sided dimension was the max height of the longest beam in its middle. I slide the strip of wood between the frames and rest it on the lower deck shelf, then tra
  4. I have a question for you David "The Sleuth" Lester. What is that round "unidentified object" just port of the ship's wheel? Is it stowage? Or just a seat for the helmsman?
  5. Keith, My pictures are a little deceiving and do not represent the actual construction sequence. There are several pictures taken in the early stages of construction with the assembly out of the fixture. I lifted the ship out of the fixture a few times to take pictures, but I don’t recommend it. I got lucky and did not break or distort anything. The ship was out of the fixture for only a few moments, a few times, before I took the last “picture in the fixture”. All fabrication and gluing of the frames to the keel and the clamps to the frames etc. was done in the fixture. There a
  6. David, you are ahead of me in my build so I am watching your progress attentatively. I think your winch and windlass turned out great and the detail is nice; The teeth on the gears are well defined. It looks to me that if I threw the winch clutch lever, you'd be weighing anchor. Good Job.
  7. As I am building the ship, I am also working ahead on the 3D model and the plans. The next assembly task will be to install the lower deck beams, the upper deck beams, and the carlings. Here are the lower deck beams for the main cabin, the fish hold and the fo's'cle. The samson post can also be seen near the bow. Then the main deck beams. I am still working on the aft beams, but you get the idea. Here is a cutaway view of the deck beams to come.
  8. I have installed all of the frames and have been able to breath a sigh of relief, this was a little nerve racking as each frome had to be positioned just right. The fixture worked out really well. Below I am installing the clamps to the frames. "Clamps" are the timbers that tie all the frames together at the deck. Don't confuse them with my colorful Harbor Freight clamps. To install the lowest "clamp" I used some custom made 3D printed screw clamps that were designed to fit between the frames Here is a view from the outside of the frames
  9. Richard, Fantasic. I echo all of the other's adulating comments. Thank you for taking so many detailed photographs, you don't know what eye candy, and inspiration, they are for me. I especially enjoy the "how to" pics of the parts on the mill and lathe. How do you index your lathe to get such perfect gear tooth spacing on such a small part?
  10. Over the memorial day weekend I completed glueing of all the aft half frames to the deadwood. I still need to drill and install treenails to all of the half frames, fore and aft. Today I worked on what I call the Horn Timber/Spider leg assembly, the cant frames are bolted (OK, glued) to this. It is not very big but it has some complex shapes. I made patterns and fabricated it in three parts, the horn timber, and two spiderlegs on each side. That is the horn timber and below is one of the spider legs Below the Horn Tiber/ Spiderleg assembly is being test
  11. Not much to report other than I continue to install frames to the keel. I have a few half frames abaft to install, then the horn timbers, spiders and the cant frames. This is an fun view from below the waterline; you can discern the hull shape.
  12. JP, One quick suggestion, and ignore me if you have already done this. Measure the openning at the very top of each printed frame extension from the outside line on each sided as accurately as possible, then compare with the printed plans. It is possible that the 'U' shaped piece of paper template splayed open or closed ever so slightly as you glued them to the frame. I leave the template intact and don't cut out the inside of the 'U' until the paper template is glued in place. Looking Great, I am impressed by the care and precision you are attacking this project. 👍
  13. Wow, that is absolutely awesome. I think your gears are soooo cool. I can't beleive the spokes in that wheel, you even have the relief in them. I want to learn how to do that. Which set of plans did you find to be most accurate with regards to the deck equipment?
  14. JP, I tried Elmers rubber cement, but didn't have very good luck with it. It didn't seem to hold well enough, you may have better luck. The nice thing about rubber cement is that it rubs cleanly off and you don't need to wet the frame to remove the pattern. I printed out frame patterns for both sides of the frame--However, I had a hard time to perfectly aligning patterns on each side of the frame so I abandoned that approach. The dotted lines are for the far side bevel as if you could see through the frame, and the solid lines are for where the bevel ends on the near side. I p
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