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Riotvan88

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  1. That looks like fun but where do you go to do this is this some type of RC boat event? Something I'll definitely be interested in looking into once she's up and running. My nearest model boat club is almost an hour drive away
  2. Thanks again Bob, great advice. I'll definitely test it out first on some scrap. Really looking forward to getting the hull sealed ready for paint.
  3. Thanks again for this advice this is the route I've decided to take. I'm now almost ready to do this part now I just have a few questions. How much Gflex will be needed I've seen half liter bottles at force 4 but not seen any larger quantities. And can I mix multiple additives in sucj as the fairing additive and the water barrier in one mix or would these need to be two coats? Lastly would you recommend fitting the korts nozzle before or after the cpes and epoxy coats? Sorry for the questions this is my first build and Thanks again for the help.
  4. Hello I'm trying to fit a raboesch 108-03 bow thruster on my billings smit rotterdam kit. The problem is that the forward hull frames are in the way and would need some serious cutting to make it fit. As I see it the way would be to cut frame 11. The cut will need to be down to the yellow line and I'm wondering if this may cause problems? Has anyone got any advice for fitting this kit with a bow thruster? Thanks
  5. Hello I'm building an old smit rotterdam kit I bought second hand as an unfinished project. I intend to make it RC. So far I've planked the hull and now the next task is to install a bow thruster. I was wondering of anyone has any suggestions as to the size of bow thruster I should look at. I know many people on the site have probably built this same kit so I'd be interested in hearing any recommendations for a suitable bow thruster unit. Thanks
  6. I've decided to leave them in if water gets in its just as big of a problem to the wood as it is the nails so I don't feel they're an additional liability. I'll just be sure to make it absolutely sealed before painting.
  7. I have one more question possibly I have made a big mistake. I drove the planking nails all the way in as I planned to leave them in the hull. Should I remove these? Is it irrelevant? I guess the potential is for them to rust but they should be completely covered by the epoxy and water barrier sealers you recommended. I could still remove them but would be a pain to do.
  8. Excellent. Thanks for the information. Although I've made static models this is my first wood RC boat. I think I'll go the epoxy route. What's the kevlar additive you mentioned for the bottom? I may add this to protect from grounding. I always prefer to over build and over engineer for durability and redundancy, anything that adds strength and longevity peaks my interest. Thanks again
  9. Because I'm wanting to make it RC and I had seen others do it. I've read it makes for a strong hard wearing surface and is easy to sand smooth for painting
  10. Thanks for all the info. Can I just varnish the inside? I've already applied varnish to parts that will be inaccessible when planked. Ideally I only wanted to fiberglass the exterior of the Hull. Also in the past I've used PVA mixed with sawdust to create a thick paste and used it as filler. Will this be OK to fiberglass over?
  11. Hello I've been building a billings smit rotterdam kit and have almost finished planking the Hull. I plan to fiberglass the exterior but this is the 1st time doing this type of work. I'm not sure in what order the next steps are. My plan was to sand the Hull smooth use wood filler if and where necessary then fiberglass it then prime it and then any last minute sanding/filling before painting the base coat on. Does this sound right? Should I sand and fill and prime the Hull before or after fiberglassing it? Thanks much appreciated
  12. Hi picked up an old second hand rotterdam kit. I'm about to glue the flat sides on part 26 and start planking. The instructions say to glue each side (part 26) on one at a time however I've always planked a POF model with both sides done together to prevent warping. Should I do one side at a time? In my view it seems both of these side pannels should be glued together.
  13. Thanks when you say printing paper do you simply mean a4 paper for a desk top printer or some specialist paper? I think I'll give this a go along with the miniture chisels I've ordered.
  14. Hello Picked up a billings smit rotterdam kit. Its the old kit. The wood is very grainy and flimsy. Anyone who has built this old kit will probably know what I'm talking about. My question is how do you cut out the windows from the superstructure pannels without them crumbling? When a row of windows are placed I find it just falls apart especially when cutting accross the grain. I'm thinking of trying miniture chisels. How did othwrs do it?
  15. Hello I just picked u a billings smit rotterdam kit second hand. The frame is built and stern deck installed. I'm wondering how to seal the grain to get a smooth surface. I'm going to be sealing and painting parts as I build as I imagine painting some areas will be difficult when complete. The kit came with a tin of humbrol sanding sealer but this is very thick. Can I thin it? (What with?) would varnish be better or any kind of spray wood sealer/primer? Also the rear deck has been painted without sealer. Can I seal over this to repaint?
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