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Jerry Sturdivant

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  1. Time to start planking. After gathering a bunch of different colors and brands of wood, I selected a balsa for the wider, outside planks. This is another test stain, but I didn't like it because I'll be sanding and that can change the color. So here's beginning of planking. Lots of sanding and shaping. But with balsa, it's easy. (Yea, I'm lazy) So here's the beginning. I'm sanding and shaping to keep the wood close to the cabins. I'll paint them at the last so it won't scrap the white. Here is a few weeks later. I might have overdone the "different color planks." I didn't want all the same color, but I may have goofed by making the colors so different. (Sigh!). But, I'd have done the same thing if it was full size. I could do some staining, but, well, it is what it is. I was going to oil it like the young lady did, but I have some finish that has a slight stain color. We'll see what happens. I do one stick at a time, unlike the lady (can't remember her name and am afraid to leave this to find it) who glued it all at once. I'm in no hurry and I can pay more attention to detail (while watching golf on TV). Another error I'm making is my "calking." I sand each piece at a slight bevel, then rub pencil (carbon) on them. Well, on some I've made too big an angle and it makes too big a "calking" line. But, what the heck.
  2. In preparation for planking the deck, I decided (after seeing Ms. Olha’s comment), Basswood is rather light colored. So I ordered some Cherry Wood Strips from Model Shipways; then borrowed some strips from my son (he builds ships but isn’t in this group – but I'm working on him), and am trying different stains. I searched the Internet for Olha's Pear and found nothing. (She must have a secret supplier). The order from Model Expo wood screwed up so I’m proceeding with testing anyway. As you can see, I have Basswood Top strip and 3ed strip. The other two are the slightly darker wood from my son. I had good luck with wine, both in drinking and using it for stain. (No not on my shirt). My other model here explains how I used wine to color my sails. I’ve marked “Red Wine Rubbed off”, then Red Wine Soaked. Then some weird stain from Hobby Lobby, mixed with water, then three different wood conditioners and stain from Model Expo. After it dries I’ll paint over portions with 4980 Natural Stain and 4972 Clear Stain and see what I like. I plan on mixing different woods. And if I don’t like the stain, I’ll try just oil (like we do on real ships) like Ms. Ohla did. Then, if Shipway comes through, I’ll add their Cherry Wood. (Yea, I drank the red wine… Don’t waste nothing). It could be quite a colorful deck. I hope it doesn't look like a rainbow....
  3. Sides are on and port holes drilled. I checked the prints and added a cabin beam for top plank support. Then a bunch of sanding to get the cabins to fit flush. My deck planking should cover the bottoms of the cabins. I added a shim on one of the ribs for the deck planks to sit on. Also near the bow, I glued some shims where the ends of deck planks can connect better.
  4. Time to start on the cabins. The ends of the cabin are measured to cover the pictures on the blueprint. I use Elmer’s glue so I have time. I squirt out a puddle on the wax paper and drag the edges of the boards through it for a thin line of glue and slide it against the next board. A hand squeeze at the end will squirt out excess glue, then a wipe of the cloth. Wax paper on both sides than put on the squeeze and squeeze it down. Leave it till morning. I used yellow glue to put cabin beams on the inside of the cabin ends; clamp and dry. With red pencil I extended some lines and as you can see, I will slide the cabin ends over the drawings and make my marks for cutting. Connected the cabin ends. The pencil points to my placement tabs on the back cabin. Same for cabin front. The decking planks have lots of deck for purchase. The extra cabin bean you see is just laying the on connecting board to show that when I cut the companionway hole, I take a section of this beam and use it on the inside. Cabin.
  5. Wow! (Slapping my forehead) why didn't I think of that? Thank you! Great tip as I'm not much of a painter and always have seepage under my masking. I bought some new blue masking tape (as my old masking tape sits in the garage - with Vegas temps about 115 in the summer - dries out) and did some internet searching for answers like yours. I decided to use black electricians' tape knowing I'd cut a sharper edge. Then I did the 'rub' thing as you see here. The blue tape covers the yellow and the white gunnels (or whatever they're called). But as you can see here, even when I slowly and carefully pulled the electricians' tape, some yellow came off. I'm new at using the above airbrush. I tried the cheap one I purchased (a few pictures up) thought I could do better with this double action one. I held the airbrush back for a wider spray and I believe the yellow partially dried before hitting the primer and that's why it pulled up. (*sigh*). The airbrush has too many adjustments and I've never even seen one used before. I finally gave it to my kid and went back to the cheap one and it works great. I just don't do small stuff like my (adult) kid. I sure like the line where it didn't peel up. Better than some of the other's I've seen. So I did some sanding and masking and painting and sanding... Anyway, this is what I ended up with. I cheated with the black line like I did on one of my other projects here and used black tape. I'm going to get some clear matt spray or use some clear paint to hold the tape down if it starts coming up. I have a rudder problem. I drew the line off the blue (white) prints and it does not match the water line I drew on the hull. So... A little yellow paint (a probably a wabbly line) and that should fix that. Same for the black I'll paint on the top of the rudder.
  6. Next is painting. I have trouble with paint brushes, big areas and drying too quickly. And as for primer, I mentioned on another boat of mine here, the primer either never seemed to dry, or I put too much on. I was like rubber. I was going to get spray cans from the hardware store but decided it was time to try to try Airbrush. So I watched the pros on line and decided on a cheap one. It was one size, small, and I used an air can for pressure. Between me never having done it before and never even watching it done, and a cheap outfit, and run out of air. I tossed the rig you see above and got a good one. I practiced, plugged it up, then got the paint too thin, didn't understand some of the controls. Back to the Internet an a few more lessons. Anyway I bought a better gun and hooked it to my large compressor under this bench and practiced I sprayed on the prime. Then I remembered I had to paint the rudder. And the instructions say to taper down the stern post and the rudder. So a little grinding and more prime. I painted the gunnels white. Let it dry, then masked them and airbrushed the hull. One thing about airbrush, it doesn't cover sins and fill cracks like a paintbrush. But I didn't want a perfect job because it would like like a plastic hull popped out of a mold. Real boats I painted had brush strokes, so I left plank marks in, like in real boats. I borrowed my son's Water Line Marker; leveled the boat, went to the plans and drew a line just slightly lower than the real waterline. I will be taping (in place of masking tape) because the tap should make a finer line and thin paint may not leak under the tape like it does masking. The tape on the gunnel (or whatever it's called) is the blue masking tape. Today I spray the Hull Copper.
  7. After a bunch of testing, I found the problem. It seems my Apple iPhone has a gravity device so when you turn the camera to Landscape from Portrait the screen follows - As long as you keep the click-button on the right!. So not only does the photo have a GPS stamp, it apparently has a "This side up if you click with the button on the right," mark, too. (*Sigh*). Apparently this site looks at that marking when loading. So I loaded the two troublesome pictures up on my computer screen, one at a time, and took a picture (button on the right) and they loaded here just fine.
  8. After having upside down picture problems, I photted the photo and now they loaded correctly. (Sigh). Anyway, thanks to Olha and her videos and ideas, I used spackle rather than wood putty and it's great to work with. I do my sanding and putty with a fluffy towel and when I apply the spackle, I never scrape the putty knife in the jar because it's too dry. I always wipe the knife on the towel and wash it off later. The above picture is after sanding the first time. As you see in this following picture, sanding will leave a few problems. Sanding with fine paper requires constant brushing. I did the top plank a second time and lightly sanded. I drilled out the threads in the brass stand and drilled a small hole in the keel. Tighten the nut on the bottom and now I can work on the deck. I'll remove the brass stand and leave the bolt for painting. (I placed a small sliver of wood on the right side of the brass stand to help keep the 'water level' correct).
  9. I'm adding pictures to my build: Pinky Schooner GLAD TIDINGS 1937 by Jerry Sturdivant - Model Shipways - Scale 1:24 - - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1901 - Present Day - Model Ship World™ But when I download them from my computer, they are upside down. I've inverted them in my computer and tried again. Still upside down. I down loaded both correct and upside down, but they all showed upside down. Help! H
  10. Instructions suggest gluing reinforcement block inside the hull for the chain plate locations. Six locations. Now I glue on the plank sheers; being sure the glue doesn't fill the little square holes, I tried setting the plank sheer edge as close to the sheer strake (top plank) as possible. Kinda making a average. I don't want to sand the down too much because of holes. I use Elmer's to give me more time to move things around and get it all rubber-banded. You can see a shadow where the plank sheer overlaps the top plank. This will all be taken care of with spackling and sanding (I hope). So the cracks and crevasses get spackled. I used the putty knife to fill in for abut a quarter inch for the gap at the plank sheer. My first time doing this so after 10 minutes of drying (things dry quick in Las Vegas and zero humidity) I used the putty knives to kinda scraps semi-dried spackle off. I'm hoping to save a lot of sanding. I'll let it dry today and see how sanding works tomorrow.
  11. Having looked at other models, I notice the hull is painted to where you can see the planking. So maybe I should have followed instructions and planked it correctly. Oh well. Sand it smooth enough and I hope it won't show. While sanding, I notice that the planks I soaked, then attached, tended to bend more around the ribs (bulkheads) and left bumps. So I'll have to sand them down and they'll be thinner. Here I used my lamp at an angle to show shadows and high spots and the aforementioned bulges. I've rubber banded the keel, stem and sternpost in place, just to see if I needed more sanding near them. I'll glue these on and hope putty (spackling past) and sanding cleans it up.
  12. One last plank on the starboard side. Again, I placed it, rubber bands, pencil cut and sand. Well.. Like I said, no need being a purest when you're going to paint over your goofs. So now I'll start sanding and perhaps a little putty. Then add keel and posts. Then more putty...
  13. Last gap on the port side. With a plank large enough I laid over the hole and let it curve itself with no stress. Then rubber bands and blocks to hold it in place: Being sure it wouldn't move, i turned the boat over and marked the edges of the hole on the new plank. Removed the rubber bands and here is where I cut and sand. Oh,oh! I cut it too small. I meant to leave some to trim and sand: I'll not soak this one because the only stress on the plank and the curvature. So I'll glue it; rubber band it and let it dry. Well I screwed that up. Rubber bands and block and a short plank, and I missed a rib on the right end. A little carving with a blade; pry it up with a toothpick, and add glue. Glue and putty is your friend.
  14. I see my glass of wine made it in the above picture. I use it to relieve stress when rubber-banding ahead of glue drying. So now my planking is coming together and I’m closing the gap. In this following picture, I cut this long piece to relieve the stress because this one didn’t just lay down. PIC. My finger points to the cut. Also, I can take my time with each section of plank. I did the section on the left first. While it dried, I had the other plank in the hot water. The little pieces of wood help press down the slight amount of stress lift. Filling the Gap In this next picture I must fill the gap in the hull. I could put in two small planks, but they’d be small and require a lot of sanding on each one. So I’m using a bigger one to fill it completely. I laid the large plank in place and let it lay in place, unstressed. Marked from the inside with a pencil, and cut and sanded it to fit. You can see, above I’ve prepared the section so when I place the wet plank, I just roll down the boards under the rubber bands to press it in place. I didn’t soak the plank very long (10-minutes) because longer would cause swelling and it wouldn’t fit. Below I have the plank in place to dry and have the boards and bands holding it in place. Picture A few hours later I moved the boards up, pulled out the dry plank. Added Elmer’s glue and put it back with bands and boards.
  15. Okay, I got the third plank down in place, (And learned how to make my font bigger). And noticed my wine glass in the picture... So now my planking is coming together and I have to figure how to fill the gap. One big fat plank or two (or three). So I did some measuring with various size planks; checked how they laid, and decided there would be less stress if I did it in sections. So I placed this short piece in place, cut it, soaked it in hot water and presently have it drying. Meanwhile, cutting the continuation and have it under the hot water faucet. (I hope I'm not getting myself in too much trouble here...)
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