acaron41120
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Question on Sanding Sealer
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Thanks everyone. I will continue on using the method I have been using as it turns out it was the correct method. I usually sand and fill using the sawdust from sanding with a mixture of the sawdust and glue which works much better than sanding down the commercial fillers that just don't seam to sand down enough. Before painting, I use a tack cloth and then add one light coat of sealer and follow up with the color of choice for my particular ship. For Mayflower, and the Golden Hind I will stain the hull with a quality stain and then paint from the waterline down flat white. Again thanks everyone for your help. -
Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Question on Sanding Sealer
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Question on Sanding Sealer
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Quick question on using sanding sealer. I have used it many times on ships whose hulls are painted with great success. But I'm unsure if I should use sanding sealer if I am staining the wood. I'm afraid that if I used sanding sealer then stained the wood, the stain would NOT soak into the wood s it should. Am I correct in my thinking?
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My neighbor lost part of his pecan tree. The only thing left was a 4 ft piece of the trunk which was in good condition. He cut that down and ground the stump. He knew I build wood model boats and asked if I wanted it. I said sure and have it in the back by my fence drying out. Now for my question. Is pecan a good wood to use in making a model boat? I have the plans of the Bluenose and I would like to try my first scratch build of the ship using pecan. What say ye master builders?
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Did the ships cannons on the starboard side line up directly across from the cannons on the port side? Also were the cannons set the same on a frigate/man-o-war located the same as say the Mayflower or Santa Maria etc.? Were they located that way from country to country or did it depend on which country built the ship? I've checked several model plans and Google and come up with everything lined up across from each other. Wanting to add some authenticity to my kit. Thanks for your help.
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acaron41120 reacted to a post in a topic:
Gun Port Hatches
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acaron41120 reacted to a post in a topic:
Gun Port Hatches
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DaveBaxt reacted to a post in a topic:
Gun Port Hatches
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Gun Port Hatches
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Gun Port Hatches
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druxey reacted to a post in a topic:
Gun Port Hatches
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Gun Port Hatches
acaron41120 replied to acaron41120's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
druxey. Thank you sir. I never even thought of a rebate in the port frames but that does make sense. I see now how that would keep the port lids from swinging into the ship during inclement weather allowing the sea into the ship. -
Question on the hatches for the gun ports on a 16th century ship. Well all ships I guess. Did the hatches that covered the gun ports fit flush inside the port opening or did they overlap the opening a bit? Couldn’t find anything specific in any material I have. Thanks in advance for our assistance.
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Tool for Gratings
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Tool for Gratings
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Tool for Gratings
acaron41120 replied to acaron41120's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I can't locate his grating kits in the syren website. Even tried searching for grating kits. -
Just wondering if there is a tool maker that makes a tool similar to a punch that would cut the square holes in the gratings contained in kits. I don't want to create a new way of doing things but it would be nice to take the grating in the kits and be able to punch out the holes in the gratings rather than using a pin vise and swiss file to square the round hole. Thanks.
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Ship’s Anchor Tie off
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Thanks Henry. So if I understand it correctly, the anchor cable ran from the cable tier, around the capstan and then through the hawse hole to the anchor. Great info. Thanks again.
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I understand how the ship’s anchor rope is tied off at the anchor but not back at the capstan. Was it tied off near the base of the capstan and then wrapped around and out through the hawse hole to the anchor or was it tied off to a separate eye? Just getting ready to add a few finishing touches prior to installing the top deck. I guess the question of the rope tie off applies to all the capstans. Thanks for you excellent help.
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Showing my ignorance with using planes here but if I understand correctly, I start with a square piece of wood stock that's almost the correct size of the mast; ie. 8mm round; then cut down the square piece to the correct size and then finger plane it until close to round and finish by sanding it round. What about starting with a square piece, cut it down do the correct size for the top of the mast and from there insert it in my drill and use the drill like a lathe and sand it round using my sanding stick? I think I'd feel better doing that. Would that work?
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What is the best method of cutting the top portion of a mast square? I do all my building using hand tools and I've managed it but it was very difficult. I have used single edge razors and Exacto knives followed by sanding. What do you experienced builders do? Thanks in advance.
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Recommended pins for planking?
acaron41120 replied to Capella's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Agree. I have 3 sets of those. Helps to predrill the hole in the bulkhead just smaller than the nail. Jim...I have the same building jig. Works fabulous. I guess when someone comes to your workshop they enter "Mister Roger's neighborhood!" -
Sails set when leaving port
acaron41120 replied to acaron41120's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Thanks for the help. I think I'll set the lanteen sail on the mizzen mast and the top sails on the main and fore masts and have the rest of the sails furlled. -
Quick question (hopefully). When a ship of the 1500s etc. left the port, which sails were set? I don't imagine all sails were set. I would like to set the sails on my Mayflower the same way. Thanks in advance or the help.
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