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About drjeckl

  • Birthday 06/30/1951

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    Long Island, NY

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  1. Thank you gents, especially Mark, for the enlightenment; very interesting. Mastini shows two train tackles in addition to the side tackles and the breeching rope.
  2. Allan, Thanks for the update. Yes, still working on the LN. Maybe I'll just eliminate the training tackle. Could be why I don't see many of the modelers here show it. I just see those empty rings in the middle of the deck.
  3. Allan, Thanks for that. I must remember to be more specific phrasing my question. I've seen the frapping for the side tackles. I specifically was curious how the lines for the train tackles were stowed, since they cross a portion of the deck. Would they be frapped in the same manner as you show above? Thanks.
  4. I finally got to prime the hull below the waterline on my Lady Nelson. I thought I had a pretty tight second planking but the grey primer shows that there were some gaps between planks, but it shows that the walnut planks provided with the kit are very porous. See below: Two questions: Is a second coat of primer needed? Should I fill in the gaps in the planks with filler? And then prime again or will the final coats of white be enough? I'm interested in seeing the wood through the waterline painting but not sure how it will look. Any appropriate photos out there? Thanks...jce
  5. Nice work on the waterway! And nice use of the outline of the false deck to work your margin plank. Coming along good.
  6. I haven't built my first pair of anchors yet, but in all the build logs I've read, for their anchors they glue the two pieces of the stock together without the shank in between. Then they drill a hole in the combined piece to fit the shank in. The technique does not leave showing the gap between the two pieces of stock that your solution does. Question: Is there an intention in doing it the way your are? Just asking. Beautiful work on the Cheerful so far.
  7. Looks good. Take your time finishing it off. Treat each plank as a separate project and focus on the details,
  8. I highly recommend getting a travel iron for the edge bending. The following is popular here:
  9. The amount of tapering at each end should be derived from the width you need based on the number of planks in and the width of each band. I had two bands, 7 and 8 x planks. The 7 x plank band, the top-most, did have tapering at both ends, the 8 x plank band had tapering only at the bow end since I needed the full plank width to fill in that stern area. As to the edge bending, the practice is that one needn't soak the plank before using the iron. After you set the plank under the clamps, just dip your finger into the water source and rub it over the area you're bending. That's all you need to do. And I agree with Paul; just glue the broken pieces together and sand down the seam, And who cares whether they were supposed to left unpainted or not. I actually planked the stern counter and it looks nice. Be creative!
  10. Jacek, I had the same problem, clinkering, with my LN. I was advised by the more experienced builders here to watch Chuck Passaro's video's on planking, especially the 3rd one on edge bending of the planks. Once I started doing that, the clinkering was drastically diminished. I highly recommend that you watch them. You can get the link from here:
  11. Yeah, OC, you're still going to have the exhaust issue, whether the booth is handmade or pre-fab. I would find out if there are non-exhaust hose solutions out there.
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