Jump to content

drjeckl

Members
  • Content Count

    70
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About drjeckl

  • Birthday 06/30/1951

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Long Island, NY

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Glenn, Why did you not include a wire ring connected to the eyebolt? I have seen in numerous example that that is the 'nominal' sequence: eyebolt, ring and the breeching rope seized to the ring, not the eyebolt. Or at least using a hook. Your technique locks the cannon in; can't be moved. Thanks...John
  2. Again, I'm a noobie too but I can tell you that I put the keel pieces on before 1st planking and I wish I hadn't. During that planking, I broke the keel, bow stem and stern piece several times. I initially used PVA glue to add those pieces and again, after they broke. Finally, after maybe the 3rd or 4th break, I used epoxy to add them. This held until the last break I showed in my build log. I would recommend that you check out my log here and then follow it: Bottom line is having gone what I went through, I would wait to add the keel pieces until after the 1st planking. Not sure
  3. You may want to take a little more off at the stern end; where the char is; the transition to the deadwood could be a little bumpy. Other than that, I think it looks real good. Have you run a plank from bow to stern and see how it hits each bulkhead? .John
  4. Just an update, primarily for those new noobies who are beginning the LN just to give them some hope that they can build a good model on the first time but not to expect the quality of a model built by the MSW veterans. Be prepared that you may break things; I have. But most importantly, take your time. As I've seen repeatedly on this site, "treat each piece you add as it's own model". So far, starting in June, I have completed the following: First planking, after ripping off 10 x planks and moving to Chuck's edge bending technique. What a difference that made! Prepped and p
  5. Grimmy, my first build was also the LN. I did a lot of researching on this site before I got too far along. There are two build logs that I highly recommend. The first is: Vossie is a very experienced carpenter who sometimes goes off on way off tangents but I learned a lot about this hobby and how he built the LN from this guy. Unfortunately, he fell off the map before completing the build. But it's worth going through his entire log. The other log is: Glenn is an experienced builder who got back into the hobby with the LN. Same here: learned a lot a
  6. Great job Tim, she looks great! Thank you for the build log. It was very educational following along. John
  7. Chris, Just wanted to congratulate you on your deal with Modelers Central. I just got their monthly email that discusses this: The Vanguard Models range of model ship kits are the highest quality model ship kits currently on the market. They are for the discerning model ship builder wanting to build a quality model that is a "cut above" all the other brands. All the Vanguard Model range of kits are designed and developed by Chris Watton, a world-renowned designer of wooden model ship kits and is best known for his work with companies such as Amati/Victory Models.
  8. I found this on Etsy. I saw Chuck suggest this in one of his tutorials (fogot which ship.) Haven't used it yet. The black will imitate black rope for the strop; no painting needed. I got the 34 guage; I think Chuck recommended 33. Delivery was quick; shipping free. Seller: CraftBistro 29,000 sales|5 out of 5 stars Black Artistic Wire Tarnish Resistant Craft Wire (14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 Gauge) $6.35+ .John In stock
  9. I got this outfit from one of Chuck's posting: https://drillbitsunlimited.com/ . They are in the States, are very resonably priced and come in a case. I would bet they have what you are looking for. John
  10. Nirvana, Thanks for advice. One question: Use PVA out of the bottle, or diluted? If diluted, to what ratio? Will undiluted wick into the bulge enough? And presumably, use white PVA, not yellow? Thanks...John
  11. Looks awesome. In terms of cases, not sure if I found it here but I bookmarked this site: https://www.acrylicjob.com/shop/ . Have no experience with them but they are in the States, CA. Can't wait to see it in a case. John
  12. But is brushing diluted PVA where the bulges are the best method for these bulges?
  13. If I should fix this (I think I should), what's the best technique? I could brush in some diluted PVA where the bulges are but how do I hold down those areas while the PVA sets where I can't get clamps to work? I've seen some people use rubber bands with erasers holding down planks while the glue sets. I may try that. Any other thoughts?
×
×
  • Create New...