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Cornhusker1956

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  1. Cornhusker1956
    John Thanks for the link and I too will be following. I have provided a link to my cousin whose father owned the kit. Even this early I know the kit is in the right hands. David
  2. Cornhusker1956
    Members The kit has found a new home. I thank you for your interest and information.
  3. Cornhusker1956
    A family member recently gifted me a 1970s kit that he had bought for his father who had no interest in building a ship (he did RC planes). The kit has sat in a basement for the 50 years and since he knew I did build boats he gave it to me. After opening the kit I realized that it was beyond my fine motor skills and expertise. I am willing to give the kit to anyone who is interested. It is a Marine Model Company Red Jacket kit. It is a solid hulled kit with no sails. The instructions in the kit are sparse - one full scale sheet showing the rigging, deck layout (both views), and a few instructions on parts installation. The instruction manual is a generic one produced by MMC. It is not specific to the kit and is only 4 pages long. The kit will be provided in the original box with all original documents. If you have any interest please contact me. The kit is being offered for free to a good home. I will pay the cost of shipment. I will provide my telephone number via a PM. David Green Fernandina Beach, FL
  4. Cornhusker1956
    This was my first one also - almost 30+ years ago. Be embarrassed to show a picture of it. Quite “rustic”.
  5. Cornhusker1956
    I have had more problems with rigging slipping through the split on the rings - I just spot soldered them together. David
  6. Cornhusker1956
    Andre Thank you for the detailed pictures and explanation. Very helpful for my next time. David
  7. Cornhusker1956
    Andre Can you explain with a little detail about planking the bow. It seems per the pictures that you planked on side with several rows with the ends overhanging the actual line of the bow and then the other side. Did you determine the line/shear of the bow with the one side and matched that with the other? I have seen other methods used but still don’t have an understanding of the details (like the cross-crossing). And I have found that it is all about the details. I have completed the Endeavour 1:80 version and had a very difficult time with the bow. I have the 1:35 version sitting on the shelf waiting until I get some more practice with this issue. Any help would be appreciated. David
  8. Cornhusker1956
    May want to try www.CMLsupply.com. I have a micro drill bit set from them and it worked really well with a Drexel tool in their drill press. David
  9. Cornhusker1956
    Not to steal the thread but I have an extra Amati keel clamper that I would be willing to sell cheap. David
  10. Cornhusker1956
    Rich I have seen many builds on the forum that have used the balsa filler technique but haven’t had a chance to try it out. There was one on an Endeavour 1:35 project that used balsa fillers between every BH, over entire 4 ft length. I agree that this will make the fairing and planking much easier in these areas. David
  11. Cornhusker1956
    Rich Very interested to hear what the others following have to say. I would be very hesitant about the shim/sand solution because it would also change the line up of the reference lines. I think that if you could adjust just the curvature of the bottom edge (sanding or carving) so that it flows smoothly into the already cut rabbet it should be fine. David
  12. Cornhusker1956
    Rich While not an expert I think that when you fair the bulkheads some the overlap will resolve but if it remains a problem then the bulkheads will need to be shortened and faired so that the rabbit line is exposed. As for the ships boat I have attached some pictures of the version in the kit I built. It is the MS version with a 1994 date on the plans. Looks pretty close to the other picture. David
  13. Cornhusker1956
    Rich Good luck on this build. This was a ship that I built many years ago, back when my skills were very rudimentary. I look forward to seeing how it really should be done. This may tempt me to try again. David
  14. Cornhusker1956
    So I guess that no one can assist me with this question? I am very hesitant to start my Endeavour 1:35 kit without knowing a little bit more about how to plank the bow. Any assistance would be appreciated. David
  15. Cornhusker1956
    Looking for some information on how to plank the bow of the Endeavour. I have attached some pictures from other members that shows an overlapping/alternating planking technique that I have not been able to duplicate. Is there a video or set of instructions for this method somewhere? My attempt was not satisfactory (see photo) - very uneven . Picture 2 is from John Gummersall’s build and Picture 1 is from Henry James’s build. David
  16. Cornhusker1956
    John Just saw this post and am happy that you have completed the build. I believe that your final result is much better than mine, especially with the hull and bow. I will post pictures of my finished build in another post. Like you it is time to move on to another. I would still like to get some more experience with the hull and bow of these types of boats before I attempt the 1:35 version of the Endeavour. David
  17. Cornhusker1956
    John Now that I am placing the cleats and the blocks I wanted to comment on the plans and some of the very close tolerances on the placement of some parts for those who try this next. The plans indicate that a 2mm wide plank should be used for the outermost deck planking and a double 2mm plank for the center line plank. Once the deck is completed then a 1mm wide toe rail is placed just inside the outermost plank. Per the plans there are many blocks to be placed on this outermost plank. The holes are 1.5mm and the brass collars are 2mm wide. This means that the holes need to be bored exactly in the center of the outermost plank so that the brass collars don’t bind with the toe rail or overhang the deck. As you found out this placement can cause some problems depending upon whether you bore the holes first and and place the brass collars before or after the toe rail.are placed in the outermost plank. I used a 3mm wide plank for both the outermost plank and the two center planks. While this made the placement of brass collars easier it did cause some other problems. The space between the toe rail and the brass rails is also very close. Per the plans there should be 3 staggered cleats between them at amidships. Using the 2mm outermost plank with the 1mm toe rail there is room but with my setup of a 3mm outermost plank I don’t have the room to stagger. The use of the 3mm planks for the centerline also caused some problems in that the placement of the innermost holes/brass collars (of the six) near the mast is difficult. David
  18. Cornhusker1956
    John Hopefully you have had a chance to do some work this past week. I am looking forward to seeing your progress. I copied your idea for the turnbuckles and they turned out beautifully. I am a little ambivalent about putting all of the blocks and cleats on the deck. I have seen others that have done them all (even if they are not needed for the rigging) and included the coiled ropes for the rigging. While realistic I think that it detracts from the view of the deck and the fine work that has been done. If I remember correctly you had previously posted that you were not going to add the sails. Is that still the plan? I have added some pictures of my progress so far. Working on the sails now. Going with a different sail material than provided in the kit. Also included a picture of the bronze cleats. David
  19. Cornhusker1956
    Origamifan I don’t know if you are still looking but I received a Black Pearl kit from my children for my birthday. It is a Chinese kit therefore the instructions are in Chinese but the instruction book and large scale layout plans are fairly detailed. See attached. If you want additional information such as source please let me know and I will ask them. David
  20. Cornhusker1956
    John The drill looks real handy. Will have to add to my “toys”. It was a pain had drilling all of the holes. I am leaning toward not doing the water line also. David
  21. Cornhusker1956
    John I see that you have bored the holes in the deck for the fittings. I don’t know if this is true for you but I have run into some problems. First the 2 mm holes for the skylights (part 99) are not big enough to accommodate the skylights. I haven’t determine the correct diameter as of yet but will be working on that next. Second the 2 mm holes for the capstans are not needed - that is my capstans (part 102) do not have the protrusion at the bottom that are supposed to fit into these holes (figure 67 in the plans). David
  22. Cornhusker1956
    John I too have big fingers and it was difficult to assemble the deck furniture. I agree that adding the acetate windows before assembly is easier but it caused me some problems. The windows added depth to the frames and caused a gap between the window frame and the side walls. Not much but it looks a little off. Watch out for those metal grates flying off to parts unknown when snipped from the big piece. Deck looks really nice with the stain. David
  23. Cornhusker1956
    John I should have describe it as the bow. As you see below mine is not smooth. Comparing mine to the picture from your May 28th post you can see the difference. The 7th photo in your May 21st post shows the second planking of the bow with planks on the alternating sides protruding beyond the other side. Is this how you got such a smooth line? Is so is there a instructional video or something as a reference for this method? I have not ever seen this done. David
  24. Cornhusker1956
    John The center and edge pieces are mahogany stained with red mahogany. I got the longer (1 meter in length) mahogany strips from Ages of Sail also. I had to stain the hull with the red mahogany because of problems with some wood filler that I used to repair some gaps. Since I did the hull I did the deck pieces also. I do have a few questions, especially about how you did the second planking of the bow. Your ridge line is very clean and mine is very “bumpy”. I saw the picture with the overlapping planks and wondered about the method. Where did you get this from and is there a video or instruction for this method? I think that your hull with the full length planks looks better than mine with the 6in planks. The reason I did the shorter planks was that my past experience with the “filler wedges” haven’t worked out so good. At least with the shorter planks I didn’t need any cheater wedges but did have to struggle with some curled edges (hence the wood filler). Another question is about painting the brass on the boom and mast. I left mine brass but have noticed that most do pain these brass add-ons. Your thoughts on painting versus not? I have also noticed that there is a wide range of things done with the cleats. Some leave as pewter, some paint brown, and some scratch build wood. I am thinking about adding a dark/black patina using a “Patina for metal” liquid. Have you decided what to do with these? I noticed that you are from Glenview. I lived in Mt Prospect many years ago. Almost neighbors. David
  25. Cornhusker1956
    John Looks like great progress. I am really enjoying reading this build, mainly because you are several steps ahead of me and I get lots of tips. I decided to plank from the outside in but with full length planks. I found some very long lime wood/linden planks at Ages of Sail. Unlike most other builds of this model I elected to use 6 in long planks for the second planking on the hull instead of full/partial hull length so I am hoping that the full length planks on the deck with offset the hull. David

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