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  1. Jeff, another good catch. I've been trying to put the blocks in the way you describe but it does appear that a couple of them turned around on me when I wasn't looking. I debated whether to place the yards on the masts now or later and decided to go ahead and attach them now. I'll probably try to continue and if I run into an issue that I can't get around I can always release them and re-attach later. This is where more experience would really help and I really appreciate people taking the time to point things out. I've already learned so much and still feel like I'm just starting down that ro
  2. Main Mast Yards: Everything was pretty smooth shaping, painting and assembling the two yards for the mainmast. Getting in a bit of a flow with it and it looks like things are continuing to come together. I have added all the blocks for these two yards before attaching to the mast and it seems like that's the way to go. For the parrel on the main yard with three strings of beads I still used a single piece of thread. Strung the line through the first two sets of ribs and beads and then brought the loop from that line over the yard and placed the assembly in the approximate position
  3. Good catch, I am planning to get all the blocks done before permanently putting everything in place but after your note I went back and realized I had missed a few on the bonadventure yard. Getting those done now will save me lots of hassle later. Thanks again.
  4. Mizzen Latten Yard and Upper Lateen Yard: Finished the two mizzen yards and mounted them. Everything seems to be pretty straightforward now that I've got the painting and parrels figured out. Can't imagine trying to attach the yards to the masts with the masts on the ship. Laying the mast down flat and putting the yard across it and letting gravity hold it in place while tying the parrel assembly just seems the way to go. As with the bonadventure mast I put a small pin in the mast and yard to hold it in place, no glue, but the pin along with the parrel assembly keeps it in place. I
  5. Redoing the Bonadventure Lateen Yard: After looking at my completed Bonadventure mast and yard for a while I decided the paint job on the yard just couldn't stay. It didn't look neat, and even after three days it was still very sticky and showed no signs of completely drying out. Getting the paint off was a challenge, it was so gummy that sandpaper did next to nothing so I took out the exacto and just started scraping it off. It took a while but finally got 98% of it off and was able to clean up the last bits with sandpaper getting back to pretty much raw wood. I looked for the pai
  6. After realizing that the rope binding the parrel together is a single piece I took another stab at it and I think I've got something that works. Took the rope through the parrel ribs and beads, used 6 ribs and 5 beads on top and bottom for this yard, and then left a loop and went back through the other direction on the other side. Slid the loop over the yard and brought it up into position and put the assembly under the mast. I kept one of both ends of the thread clamped with hemostats so it couldn't come apart while moving things around. I then looped one loose end over the yard and brought i
  7. Jeff, do you mind telling me what brand of acrylic you use, I've been looking around and would appreciate any tips. I did find that picture of the parrel in my research but was wondering where the two lines you marked ended up. Seemed obvious they get tied off somewhere but I didn't catch that it is one continuous line which makes a ton more sense now that I realize that. I'm going to take a shot at it with the new knowledge and see how it works.
  8. Finishing the masts and Bonadventure Lateen Yard: Finished the 4 masts and started on the Bonadventure Lateen Yard, the masts were pretty straightforward but the lateen yard has been a bit of a challenge. I've had a hard time getting the yard cleats consistent enough in size to not look very ragged on the mast. I've tried different stocks and sizes of wood to start with and finally decided to use stock where the width of the stock was equal to the length of the cleat to try and get a consistent length. Since the cleats are 2 and 4mm long I have stock already that width but I'm stil
  9. Mainmast: I've finished shaping the mainmast sections and put the mainmast together. The main topmast requires a lot of wood to be removed and has several different areas with different shapes but I continued to work with a knife and now I'm able to do most of the shaping with a knife. That plus a file and sandpaper got it where it needed to be. The wood for the topmast is different than the wood for the mainmast and seemed to be a bit easier to work with being a little softer and less likely to gouge into the grain. I also learned to use my exacto more like a plane and taking only
  10. Masts Staring Mainmast and Bowsprit: I shaped and added the cheeks on the mainmast and as I starting looking at the main topmast I realized it has a pretty complex shape with a lot of wood to remove and I thought I wanted to get a little practice with something simpler first so after looking at all the masts I decided to tackle the bowsprit next. I picked it because the shape was pretty simple and it only had one piece so just simpler all around. I still found shaping the bowsprit challenging, not so much because of the difficulty but just because it took so much time to take off s
  11. Thanks for the information and the heads up on the bonaventure mast, I could have easily missed that as I was preparing the masts and had to do it over. It's starting to come together for me, I just have to realize that sometimes it takes information from multiple pages of the plans to get the specific measurement I want.
  12. Thanks for the information and diagram. It really helps to understand the usage from a real ship as I try to put the model together. I'm still amazed that the fid is the only thing preventing the topmast from dropping down, I would have though it would have been iron instead of wood at least but I'm sure they knew what would work and what wouldn't.
  13. I'm starting to build the masts for my Revenge and I've already run into a couple of questions, I'm including a picture of the mainmast top to help clarify my question. Since the opening the mainmast comes through is 10mm x 8mm and the mast is 7mm x 7mm where it comes through the mast top allows the top some flexibility in position, a couple mm forward or back. I suspect that most of this position will be determined by correct placement of the main topmast where the mast cap determines the spacing between the two masts and the topmast should sit in the center of the hole outlined by the blue s
  14. I finished pretty much everything on the ship body, channels, deck grates, etc and I'm ready to move on to the masting for now. I have spent quite a bit of time studying the plans for the mainmast just trying to get in my head exactly what is going on with it and I think I've figured that out but I'm not really sure how I'm going to get there yet but then that's the fun and challenge. I went ahead and built the first mainmast crowsnest (instructions never call this out by name so I'm guessing here). Like others have mentioned in their build logs I used a slightly different method to put all t
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