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  1. Amazing work and a beautiful ship, the detail is incredible. Congratulations on a great work.
  2. Next deck challenge: As I was waiting for some paint to dry on the next bulkhead I decided to go ahead and start test fitting the next aft deck. No matter how I tried I could not get the false deck to move into place, it just seemed too big. Looking at it for a while I went ahead an cut it in half so I could figure out what was going on and make it fit. When I placed the two halves on the bulkhead supports the fore part is pretty much spot on for the width but the aft area is at least 8mm too wide. I'm completely confused by this as the space it's trying to fit into is determined b
  3. Main Deck Walls and Doors: While planking the interior walls of the main deck I noticed that there was no wall at the end of the deck, just an open spot where you could see all the bulkheads. Even though that space where the wall would be is pretty far under the deck overhanging above it just didn't seem right that it would be completely open. I looked and looked through the instructions and could not find anything where something was added so I looked through the pieces and found what I believed the walls with a couple of doors etched in it. Finally on the drawings I found somethi
  4. Two problems, one solution: As I continued to plank up the side and prepare to put the next deck on top of the false deck which I have already glued in place I noticed two things that were going to be issues. First, I needed to plank the inside of the hull above the main deck and the tongue of the second deck was going to make it really hard to get the planks under the overhang of the second deck in place securely. Secondly, and much more problematic, was when I glued the second false deck into place I didn't check the alignment with the mast holes in the main deck and I was either
  5. Final Presentation: This is a story I'm sure many of you are familiar with. Ship needs case, now case needs table, now table needs space so rearrange furniture. Whew! Overall though I'm really happy with the way the case and table turned out. The picture is missing the front acrylic panel to cut down on reflections therefore the top curves a bit where it's not supported. Thanks again for all the wonderful support, help and information.
  6. Thanks for the ideas, I always struggle with how much glue is too much or not enough. I tried to spread a thin layer over the entire surface with just enough to be there everywhere as I didn't want any loose spots. I'm not sure if that was right and I think my issue was more of a result of not being able to clamp properly while the glue dried but it's always good to consider everything. I tried to work some CA glue down on the edges while I was having a problem but with only the top available there wasn't much room to get any in where it might have helped. That's very different from what you'r
  7. Gluing first deck with issues: I needed to glue the first two decks in place in order to plank the upper sections of the hull. I test fitted and removed some from the sides of the main deck so it would line up exactly with the holes for the hatches and masts and finally had a good fit and it lay down on the false deck evenly and smoothly. I didn't see an easy way to clamp so I though I would be able to just hold it in place long enough for the glue to start to set and leave it to set, so I put a healthy coat of wood glue on the false deck and around the edges of the main deck under
  8. Starting first hull planking and lessons learned: I've been continuing planking the hull working up and down from the first plank. These planks have been pretty easy so far there's not a lot of curves to them and I've been focusing on making sure that the sides are glued well in addition to at the bulkheads. One thing I learned on my Revenge is that if the first planking has places where the sides aren't glued well they will bounce and it becomes very hard to sand things out evenly so I'm double checking each plank edge as it's finished and if it's not glued to the plank next to it
  9. First Hull Plank: The first hull plank seems like it's pretty important on this model, as I'm sure it is on most. The instructions and plans differ a little on where to start and I picked a slightly different plank than either of them. I chose the topmost plank that is glued to all the bulkheads, if I'm reading everything correctly the planks above will have the bulkheads 2-7 behind them broken off later and are only there to help shape the planks so gluing the planks to them would be a problem when it comes time to break those parts of the bulkheads off. With this plank solidly gl
  10. I painted the dummy cannon holders black as well as a couple of the areas under the hatches in the main deck. I painted the bulkheads a little to the side of where the cannon holders were painted just to be sure that I didn't get any visible areas that were unpainted.
  11. Resolved the bulkhead height issue by checking the height of the main deck support against the other supports and adjusting them to where the supports were in a line with no sudden dips. This didn't change the adjustment of the bulkheads much, only changing about .5mm on bulkhead 3 from about 3mm up to about 2.5mm up. Now when I lay a straightedge across the supports they're all in a line or a gentle curve. The deck supports seemed to be the best indicator or where things should end up. Continuing on with the cannon supports, ran into an issue that was mentioned in one of the logs
  12. I had my eye on the Japanese two sided saw that CPDDET said he uses so I went ahead and ordered one. One day later I have it and have been able to do some cutting with it and the difference is huge. It seems like it cuts at least ten times faster than the hobby razor saw I was using. Took a little patience to learn to use it but the results are impressive. I hadn't needed a saw much before this but I recommend this to anyone who needs something to cut wood cleanly and quickly. Thanks for all the great information everyone. I had no idea of the world of hand tools that is out there
  13. I have a lot of 10x10mm wood to cut and I tried cutting it with the saw pictured below but it took a long time to make it through the first cut, IMHO it's not worth a darn. I got it with a basic tool kit and I believe it's a razor saw of unknown quality. I know it's hard to say without having used it but is this specific model just poor or is a razor saw (or whatever this is) just not what I want? The instructions say the 10x10 wood is balsa but it's the toughest balsa I've ever seen. If a quality razor saw is significantly better than what I'm using that might work or possibly a different typ
  14. I've purchased an acrylic display case and I'm hoping to fit the nameplate on that but need to see how it all fits before I know for sure. For some reason I just can't bring myself to use the included pedestals, it just looks too dangerous and I'm not crazy about screws in the keel so I'm considering just painting the work pedestal and trying to make it look nicer. Once I get the case and finalize the display I'll post another picture.
  15. I believe that raising the two bulkheads in question will solve the problem. I'm including a picture and you can see a pencil tic below bulkheads 2 and 3 which is where they sit if pushed all the way in. Raising them allows the main deck that sits on the bulkheads to be almost completely straight across that section, if I push them completely down then there would be a dip there. Had to raise bulkhead 2 about 3mm and #3 almost 5mm but with that everything above them seems to lay flat and straight. Everything is just dry fit now as I just check the fit and try to be sure everything is correct b
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