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Ed Ku20

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    Millbrook, IL USA
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    Travel, Gardening, Golf, Grand children

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  1. I completed planking the deck today.  This took most of the month of October.  I found the nibbing to be the most difficult task.  Inserting the final  plank on each side was also a challenge.  But, I think it turned out pretty well for my first time.  The next major step will be painting the hull.  I plan on using an airbrush that I purchased for this build.  Except for doing the waterway, I've never airbrushed before.  I had difficulty with lots of goobers in the paint.  I've since repainted them several times with a regular brush.  I bought some Vallejo Air paint for the hull painting.  You guys seem to think it's pretty easy and smoother than brushing, so, I'm going to do it too.


    Looking ahead, I have a question.  Does anyone have any tips on how to create the hole in the bow for the bowsprit?  Nobody seems to mention this in their build logs.  Should this be done before the railings are added?  Do you just use a pin vise?  Appreciate any advice.





  2. On October 6th someone posted a "Community Map" marker under my name that shows I live in New York.  I live in Illinois!  Who posted this and how can it be fixed?

  3. Since my last post, I removed all of the bulkhead stanchions and smoothed down the waterway with some heavy sanding.  I was not happy with the way it looked after building it last month.  I think it looks much better now.  I glued in all the stanchions using CA glue.  I followed the process I found on the build log from CPDDET.  Thanks Dave, your procedure worked great!  I cut the scuppers and attached these bulwark planks including the waist plank. While these were exposed, I painted the waterway light grey and the inner bulwarks white.  I also planked the transom, inside and out.  These are photos from this point taken today.


    The next step is planking the deck.  I am following the process from Suburban Ship Modeler.  He inserted butt joints using a staggered pattern across the bulkheads of 13524.  Although more difficult, I think this looks a little more realistic then running planks the full length of the deck.  There is a tutorial on this process here:   http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Deck_PlankingIIbuttshifts.pdf


    Best regards,







  4. Well, I reached a major milestone this week!  I completed the planking of the hull.  I don't think it turned out too bad for my first time.  Here are a couple of pictures of the completed hull before sanding.  Next up I will start to work on the sanding and filling of the cracks and gaps.  I don't expect to need too much wood filler, but will see how it goes.  I will post more pics when I'm done.  Do you recommend applying some sanding sealer after sanding is done?








  5. Hi Per, Please check my latest post. I have already completed the waterway, including installing the extra supports. I am not real happy with how this looks now. My waterway is not level. Also, the spacing between the stanchions is uneven, so the fake stanchions will not appear to be evenly spaced. I plan to remove the bulkhead stanchions and sand everything level and even. I described this in my last post, including the pictures. I included a couple of questions concerning this in that post. FYI, I received a response from Model Expo regarding returning my paint set.
  6. The pictures I posted yesterday were taken at the end of July.  Since then I've completed the waterway and am in the process of planking the hull.  Here are the most current pictures of the progress on the model.  Planking is going well.  These pictures are before any sanding or filling, so I think I will get it looking pretty good afterward that.  I plan on painting the hull as recommended.  So I will be able to hide any flaws.

    I am not satisfied with the waterway.  When I complete the hull planking I plan to cleanup the waterway.  I would like to remove the bulkhead stanchions and sand down the entire waterway and then install fake stanchions.  The spacing between the bulkhead stanchions is uneven, although the bulkheads are all at perfect 90 degree angles with the keel.  So, not sure where I went wrong there.  (See the last picture of waterway in this post)

    But, I've read some comments warning not to remove the b/h stanchions until after installing the upper bulwarks.  But, it would be much easier to do the cleanup if they are removed first.  Then I can use a temporary plank to align all the stanchions.  Or maybe leave a few of them for supports to install the bulwark?  Has anyone else done this successfully?











  7. After some prompting from Dr. Per (Nirvana) and a few others on the Forum, I decided I should start a build log. I started my Bluenose kit on June 15th after a lengthy wait for it to be shipped due to the Covid19 pandemic. I built several Revell plastic models including the big Cutty Sark when I was in my teens. I also got the solid hull wooden model of the HMS Bounty up to the rigging stage before real life took over. I never did finish it. So, I recently retired and decided to pick back up on this ship building hobby again. I've really enjoyed working on the Bluenose I. After all thes
  8. Hi Guys, thanks for your replies. I am going to at least contact Model Expo to see what they say. I know I should start a build log. But, I spend all my spare time building the ship! Per, I think I'm turning into a Shipaholic! I use both of your build logs and have gotten a ton of great information from them for my Bluenose. Best to both of you! Ed
  9. Hi All, I am building a Model Shipways Bluenose model. When I purchased the kit from Model Expo, I bought the paint set at the same time. I thought they would have the truest colors scheme. When I airbrushed the Light Grey on the waterways, I had trouble with large goobers plugging the airbrush. No amount of mixing or thinning would dissolve these. See the attached picture. Since then, I've read a lot of negative comments about Model Expo paints on this site, especially when used with an airbrush. Is there a way to remedy this issue? Or should I cut my losses and see if I can retu
  10. Nirvana, thanks for your reply! You confirmed my thinking on this. I've been reading your build log as I've been working on my build. In fact I painted my waterways directly after installing them based on your recommendation. Hi Jim, I think I'm good with the great beam. My concern was with the top 2 hull planks and the way the one on the quarter deck sticks up above the waterway. I know this will be a problem when I add the bulwark board with the scuppers. It will be too high! I'm going to trim this board so it is flush with the waterway. Thanks & Best regar
  11. I have a question for the forum community. I am working on a Model Shipways Bluenose build. I am just starting to plank the hull. The top plank is supposed to be aligned flush with the top of the waterway for both the foredeck and the quarter deck. There is supposed to be a plank's width difference that allows for the step up from the fore to the quarter deck. However on my model the height change from the fore to the quarter deck is less than the 1/8" plank. This causes the top plank to extend above the level of the waterway on the qtr deck. I think my best option is to trim the width
  12. Thank you very much for your quick reply! Ed
  13. Where can I post a question regarding an issue I'm experiencing with my Bluenose build? I don't have a build log. Is this required? Can I just do it from here? Thanks, Ed
  14. Hello Everyone, I am an "old new modeler"! I am waiting for my first model to arrive from Model Expo. Due to the Covid issues, they are backed up. I've been waiting 23 days now and it's killing me! I've actually built several ship models back when I was a teenager. Back then I completed the Revel plastic models for USS Constitution, HMS Victory and the big 3 foot model of Cutty Sark. I also completed the HMS Bounty wooden kit with solid hull up to the rigging stage before heading off to college and life! So, now 50 years later, I am newly retired and decided to get back to ship mod
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