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About jeffBoats

  • Birthday 06/08/1999

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    Walla Walla, WA, USA

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  1. Tried the rubber bands and smaller pins and got a much nicer fit on the starboard bulwark. It still seems to be splayed out a little too much in the mid section...but it might work just fine. Going to let it clamp for the night and see what it's like in the morning. I accidentally caught the edge of a deck plank while trying to dryfit the bulwark but it's very small and will be covered by the waterway.
  2. @OT1138 Sorry I'm still getting some of my terminology right I saw some builders use the walnut strips for the waterways (dc-ocker had a nice example in their log). I see now what you mean by the waterways being cut from the die-cut pieces. The picture on the box shows walnut waterways and caprail, but I think I'm going to use the die cut pieces for both of these pieces. Thanks for helping me clarify, the instructions are a fair bit confusing. Your build looks great! Today, I cut and started to bend the bulwarks - I used a 3mm thick piece of basswood, as suggested in some other logs. The bulwarks seem to be difficult to clamp in place. The bottom edge of my bulwark doesn't want to line up with the top of my first plank, and if I force it, the bulwark splays out and it's difficult to keep the angle between stern decking and bulwark at ~90 degrees. Haven't messed around with soaking it a ton yet, just working on getting an initial bend. I'm going to work on it some more this week - I think it'll be worth it spending some time to create a jig so I can have the bulwarks be symmetrical and at the proper angle relative to the dick. Any clamping suggestions for this step..? There's not a lot of room for pins on the bottom edge of the bulwark - I might try fitting some blocks with a \__/ shape to rest on the deck, and then I could clamp both bulwarks simultaneously ( rubber bands around the ships hull?), but these seems like a scary task right now! Will keep updating. Jeff
  3. @OT1138 thanks! The kit sure is old but fun nonetheless About the stringers, rail - So in the ply cut sheet with the false deck, theres stringers and what seems to be the caprail pre-cut. The width is roughly 5 mm. However, in the instructions, the cap rail and stringers should be constructed with walnut strips (1.5×5mm and 1.5×3mm, respectively). I've seen most other builders use the walnut strips, which I like much better. Are the pre-cut pieces for a different part that I'm missing, or just as a back-up? Still nervous about the bending of the walnut!!
  4. Busy day! Finished off the deck planking - didn't do trenails on the stern deck (thought it would be a bit too busy). I'm very happy with how it turned out, it was very relaxing. Next up - shape the hull a bit more, sand down the stern, and start making some bulwarks out of this basswood.. (I read some people had difficulty with the ply pieces)
  5. Deck planking going smoothly. I had a question - The kit says to use walnut strips provided for the cap rail and deck stringers. The kit also has cut-outs in plywood for these pieces as well that are pre-curved into shape. The walnut strips are certainly the "right" color in my opinion, but they look very difficult to bend into shape (they are bent along the "shorter" dimension of the strip) For the hull planking, I just soaked my planks for about 30 minutes, clamped them into place, waited to dry, then glued the plank into place. However I'm not sure if this is going to do the trick with these walnut strips...any suggestions for bending these? I'd prefer not to buy a plank bender/crimper, I could also stain the ply pieces with a walnut finish? Thanks
  6. Started on the deck today, easy compared to the hull planking I'm doing trenails on my planks but I'm not sure if I will fill them in with anything or not.... I built a jig so I could cut 75 mm planks, and I'm using a 5-pattern. For the caulking, I'm using a sharpie (oil-based "paint pen" version). Will post again when it's finished, and my hull is a bit smoother...
  7. Finished off the first layer of hull planking. The last planks weere tough! I put a small amount of filler on, and I'm going to sand down the hull tomorrow. Im pretty happy with how the hull turned out, there were no gaps and it is (mostly) symmetrical. I'm excited for a different task 😁 @Cabbie thanks for the tips, I had better luck with the other planks!
  8. More planking. I think bulkhead 6 might be sitting a little bit low, as you can see by the big twist in the 2nd plank from the keel, between bulkheads 6 and 7
  9. Continuing planking. I'm mostly tapering by eye on the bow and plan to deal with the stern with stealers....The instructions aren't very good on this area. There is certainly some clinkering happening with the planks, but I think it is minor enough that I should be able to sand it down. Still practicing getting a perfect connection between planks on the bow!
  10. Getting started with my top and garboard planks. I had seen sone guides that said that the first plank on top often wasn't tapered...regretting that decision a bit but I think it will work out fine. I had some difficulty with the garboard planks (ended up using a bit of filler to ease the transition between bulkheads and false keel), but I am pleased with the end result. Wasn't sure about the transition between the plank and the false keel.... Keith + Jonny, thanks for the replies, I'm having a ton of fun already. I'm going slow with the planking but also recognize that there's another layer that could cover a lot of the imperfections. Stay tuned!
  11. I forgot to show pictures of the deck planking! I think I used a few too many rubber bands at some spots between bulkheads, added some extra curve I didn't want, but I managed to straighten it out pretty well after with a spray bottle and some clamps.
  12. Got started with fitting the bulkheads to the keel. I used lego pieces to stabilize and get the angle as close as possible. The instructions didn't say to add supports between any bulkheads except where the mast is supported - I was nervous and thought it'd be good practice to add in some more supports. I was a little nervous about the deck sitting flat on these bulkheads, but I managed to get them a bit smoother. Next, I had to work on the filler pieces. The pieces the kit came with didn't seem to fit properly (the stern pieces mainly). They seemed a bit too small? I added some "layers" to the piece before shaping them so they could be the right size. For the bow pieces, I used the given pieces (two flat triangular shapes), but also added a filler piece using balsa wood. These went better than expected! I wasn't sure, but the keel seemed very blunt up front - this is probably the shape of the boat but I wanted a bit more of an angular shape to the bow. I added a small strip of wood onto the keel which extended it's length slightly, allowing me to make a "sharper" point. Stern pieces. We invested in a cheap dremel from Harbor Freight, which turned out to be very necessary. I was reading some other posts about the stern and I'm a bit worried as the instructions aren't clear how it's supposed to be done. I found some great examples in other logs, so I'm excited to work on it. I did a lot of shaping and fairing after these pieces were secured. Going well so far, almost time for planking...
  13. Hello! This is my first ever post on MSW. A friend and I recently found out about ship building and through looking at kits and build videos, we were immediately hooked - fortunately, it only took a couple days of "research" until we found MSW. Before we even had kits in our hands, we read through many build logs - the resources here are tremendously helpful, thank you all!!!! I have little woodworking experience and no modeling experience, but I was ready for the challenge. Looking at all of the beautiful boats on here is quite inspirational, and certainly narrowed my "type" of model to a wooden ship kit. As a college student, I was on a budget when looking for my first kit. The Swift kit by Artesania Latina seemed like a common starter kit, which I liked (there are already many build logs for this boat which is largely why I chose it!) I managed to find a "new" kit (the older version from 1982) on ebay for $70 with some tools/stand included. I have already started building so I will add to this thread. Bear with me - this is most likely going to be messy and slow!!!! Thanks again to everyone who's log I have already read.

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