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About PJG

  • Birthday 03/05/1965

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    Schaghticoke, New York

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  1. Thanks Yves...I have some 1/35 figures kicking around from some old plastic Tamiya armor kits and you're absolutely right about the nearly undetectable size difference from 1/35 to 1/32. I'll definitely look in to what's available and see if I can find something appropriate.
  2. Because I don't own or have access to a decent bandsaw, I had to figure out a plan to cut my hull at the waterline with a hand saw. My original plan was to plank first and cut when the whole thing was more stable but the more I thought about it, the more it made sense to get this major hurdle out of the way before I wasted time on a step that might get damaged in the cutting process. I built a cradle from scrap dimensional lumber with the top edge serving as the waterline guide. The keel of the boat runs up-hill from the stern about an inch over its length so I added support where needed to maintain this angle. I almost missed this very important detail but thought the frame looked odd sitting flat in the cradle so back to the plans I went (thankfully). Bow elevated and secured to get the correct waterline position. Slowly but surely I cut my way from the stern to bow using the top rails of the cradle to guide the blade. This was probably the most potentially-disastrous step in the entire build so I took my time and made frequent inspections of the cut along the way to confirm accuracy. Success! Hopefully this will be the last time I use a hand saw building a model ship! The first plank the instructions suggest installing is the top-most that runs along the tops of the bulkhead frames. I opted to start with the second plank. I did this because the top plank is only glued at the bow and stern post to allow the tabs above the deck to be removed later. The second plank from the top can be glued at half its width to the bulkheads which creates a much more secure foundation to work from. It's also worth noting that while the instructions seem to indicate running full lengths of strip the entire length of the hull, the strips are actually too short to do that so you need 2 pieces per run. I cut my strips just past halfway (overlapping back and forth) to make the connection in the more forgiving midships area where the bending is less intense. Another surprise (that shouldn't have been a surprise) was that weight needs to added to the deck while the first few planks are installed to keep the frame from lifting in the middle. The rake (correct term?) of the rail is fairly pronounced at the bow so the tendency is for the planks to want to straighten out, thus causing the middle to lift. Once both planks were secured and dry, the frame seems to have settled back to the correct position. I may need to do a little additional fairing here and there along the way but for the most part I don't expect problems as the planking makes its way to the waterline.
  3. Thank you...it’s a fun kit to build, especially if you want to approach it as a blank canvas and do your own thing.
  4. So I've added additional support across all the open bulkheads above the waterline in hopes of keeping the hull from deforming when I remove the lower portion. With the sub-deck glued down and the planking in place I can't see any reason why the overall structure won't hold up to the cutting process. Once the cut is made and everything looks solid/stable, I'll need to remove some of the cross supports to allow detailing in the area below the open hatches where the nets are stored. That's a way down the road so for now I'll stick to the tasks at hand. The added cross section supports along with sub-deck structure and planking should be sufficient to keep the hull secure later on (fingers crossed). It took pretty much every kind of clamp/clip I have to secure the sub-deck firmly in place. The sub-deck is down and along with the additional cross supports appear to result in a pretty solid hull. I've added a 1/32 Spitfire pilot who may well be converted into a Scottish fisherman to give a sense of overall scale. That's all for now...thanks for stopping by.
  5. Thanks for the link/info Kevin, I’ll check that out.
  6. I just started a build log for this kit. So far, so good!
  7. I won’t spend much time going over the kit in general because James H did a very thorough job of that in his excellent review here. As James said, the box is packed with high quality material, a clear, full-color instruction booklet and 7 sheets of detailed plans. I’ve read lots of great things about Chris Watton’s kit designs here and from what I've experienced so far, the praise is well-deserved. A word of caution for those of you with limited work space...this is a BIG kit! I knew the specs going in but didn't fully appreciate the sheer size of this thing until I started dry-fitting the frames. I'm drooling over the possibilities in terms of adding detail to this build but you need to have plenty of space if you decide to give this one a go. I have fairly ambitious plans for this kit. I'll be displaying the Fifie as a waterline build in the act of hauling nets. I haven't quite figured out how I'll be pulling this off but I love the look of these boats in the water and really want to display it that way. I'd also like to add some crew if I can get my hands on some halfway decent 1:32 figures to rework into Scottish fishermen. With that said, here we go... A nice big box full of high quality stuff! The die-cuts here are very clean and precise...not at all like my previous build. Kudos to Chris Watton's clever engineering which makes assembling the frames problem-free and extremely sturdy. Even I can't screw this up! Stern assembly. The bulkheads fit perfectly without modification. Making quick work of the frames thanks to excellent fit/finish. Each part adds stability and guarantees correct alignment. This tray is intended to house the rudder servo if you plan to do an RC build but needs to be installed regardless. And just like that, if you're not going to be chopping the hull off at the waterline (probably a wise choice!), the sub-deck can be installed. I, however, will need to do some additional planning to add support and stability for the surgery to come. Stay tuned...
  8. Thanks Boxbuilds...yes, I scratch built most of the gear on the boat.
  9. My first nautical build. I learned a lot and thoroughly enjoyed the process.
  10. Knowing when to stop My tendency with all things creative is to keep doing "one more thing" until I've made a mess of it. The good news is, I'm going to break that habit with this model. I struggled a bit with the decision to not include the sail on this boat but after spending some time with and without my paper mock-up in place, I decided l much preferred the sail-free look. I may revisit that at some point in the future but for the moment, this build is officially done. Thanks to everyone who took the time to drop in, have a look, make encouraging comments and show interest in general. It's much appreciated.

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