Richard Feliciano
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Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic:
Swan Class by Stuglo - 1:48
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KARAVOKIRIS reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Fly by Richard Feliciano - 1:48 scale
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Whole.jpg
Richard Feliciano commented on Xenophon's gallery image in Gallery of COMPLETED Kit-Built Ship Models
Beautiful workmanship! -
mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Fly by Richard Feliciano - 1:48 scale
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Re-doing the Bow Cant Frames 2 thru 12. I decided to use an interior form based the on NMM Forecastle Deck Plan.
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According to convention, what I have posted is in fact a "build log" unless the something was missed.
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GrandpaPhil reacted to a post in a topic:
Swan Class by Stuglo - 1:48
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KARAVOKIRIS reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Fly by Richard Feliciano - 1:48 scale
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On the screen, where is the icon that is used to enter the info on setting up a build log?
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Swan Class by Stuglo - 1:48
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When you say "this area", what are you referring to on the web site home page?
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bruce d reacted to a post in a topic:
Swan Class by Stuglo - 1:48
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Never set a build log up. Don't know how to set up a build log.
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bruce d reacted to a post in a topic:
Aligning bow and stern frames
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Swan Class by Stuglo - 1:48
Richard Feliciano replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Stuart, Couple of steps you might consider that helped me. I ran a centerline wire down the ship line to assure the frames are offset the same port and starboard. I also made template form at the 2nd lead line level and the top of frame level to keep the curvature correct. Check out my post today -
After installing bow frames ( 2 thru 12), I began shaping the frames to the required curvature and dimensions. I discovered the frames were severely out of alignment. The procedures set forth within the Sea Watch books for setting of the frames were not accurate for my skill level. I had to resort to constructing heavy form patterns at the deck and 2nd futtock lead line levels. Using these patterns, I wrenched the frames into their proper position using tie wire. I also ran a centerline wire from bow to stern. A spreader bar was installed at frame 11 using the X Section NMM plan. If this same
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ADA33140-A2F3-4D8E-B478-110E23C2AB57.jpeg
Richard Feliciano commented on Gbmodeler's gallery image in Gallery of COMPLETED Scratch-built models
Impressed especially with the finish work -
JpR62 reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Fly by Richard Feliciano - 1:48 scale
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Richard Feliciano reacted to a post in a topic:
Proposed build log category changes - very important stuff here!!!
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Update on my Frame Thickness issue. I reduced the top of frame thickness to 6" on the bow. Attached photo shows before (top of photo) and after (photo bottom). As you can see, quite a bit of material was removed. Looks a lot better.ved.
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I'm building the Swan Class Sloop HMS Fly. Using your description nomenclature, the moulded dimension of the top of frame is what is needed The general consensus is 6" is what is to be used. This checks with my NMM plans. 6" is thin! A lot of sanding is going to be required. I plan to construct a rigid template based on the NMM Deck Plans to assure the proper location and orientation of the top of frames.
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I look at this part of the frame above the deck as a cantilevered column loaded on hull exterior by wind, waves, canon balls etc. This part of the frame extension above the deck is in tension on the exterior and the interior portion is in compression. The depth of this beam-column is the distance from the extreme tension fiber to the extreme compression fiber of the frame (i.e.-the beam column thickness).
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Swan Class by Stuglo - 1:48
Richard Feliciano replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I like your bow cant frame forms. Should help in setting of the frames. Hope you've recovered from your accident. -
I'll go with the 6". I'm going to fabricate the top timbers separately. I assume they will be 8" thick to be flush with the ship hull.
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Having an issue with the top of frame thickness for the ship frames. After cutting the frames down to proper height, the frames need to be reduced to the thickness indicated on the NMM Upper Deck Plan. This seems to be abnormally thin. After conferring with Greg Herbert, he suggested the frames may be only 6" thick at deck level. This will require a lot of sanding to achieve this thickness.
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