Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About LucienL

  • Birthday 01/27/2001

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Boats, biochemistry, chemistry, biology, history

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Also, AOTS has ropes tying off to anchor points at the base of the foremast. These are not present in the kit, so the lack of these could be contributing to how crowded the pin rack behind the windlass appears to be. If there’s space you could add some eyebolts around the fore mast (similar to the main mast) to tie off some of the ropes.
  2. Okay, looking at the instructions again, 6 tie off to belaying pins (J33, J33, J34, J35, J36 and J102), with 8 that tie off somewhere on the posts (J41, J41, J50, J54, J81, J81) I'm not sure where exactly the 2 J73s tie off to, may need to check the videos, but it could be the posts as well.
  3. I think 6 should be enough, some of them may tie off to the post. AOTS may have additional rigging not included in the instructions (I'm not really sure at the moment though), but if you do the rigging as per the instructions, 6 should be enough.
  4. In both anatomy of the ship and the OcCre instructions, rigging needs to be tied off there, so you need something to do that with. It could have been pin racks and they just haven't included it in the diagram. Have a look at figure I4/1 in anatomy of the ship, something has to go behind the windlass that is definitely not shown in the anatomy of the ship diagram. It might be hidden by the mast in this diagram, I think that the pin rack should go in the middle of the two posts running behind the mast. The rigging page of the instructions has it right, I think the photo instructions a
  5. Hello everyone, and welcome to another episode of me slowly losing my sanity, today we will be talking about the rudder. I ground down the pintles and gudgeons provided to make the scale a little better and also drilled a few extra holes. Then after a very long night I was able to assemble the rudder hinges and attach them to the boat. This is where things go wrong… First and most obviously, this should not have been after the copper had been varnished. Drilling into the hull caused some of the varnish to flake as it did not cling to the copper properl
  6. Thanks AJohnson, it definitely adds a lot of time to the build, the experimentation was quite time consuming, but I feel it was worth it.
  7. I’m very tempted to re-do mine now. Issue is, with the gun ports it’s impossible to angle them all, meaning that some will still have to be straight, and I’m not sure I like the look of that
  8. Yeah I think the 5 needs to be closest to the entrance. That’s how I did it in mine. The instructions are a bit weird on this one. The prototype on the picture on the box looks right, but it’s different to the anatomy of the ship. I think the provided channels are the same as anatomy of the ship, but the instructions try and get you to follow how they’ve done it on the prototype which leads to some issues.
  9. Thanks Techtonic! It did get a bit worse after this, but I’m still happy with it
  10. Okay, so now attempt 2 at the coppering. I bought liver of sulfur in the gel form from a jewellery store online. The gel form is better as it doesn’t lose potency quickly like the solid form does. https://koodak.com.au/products/liver-of-sulphur-for-silver-copper-brass?variant=30180608397. There are some very useful tutorials online on how to use the stuff and what to be careful about, I’ll outline the main points. I added about 3 mL of the gel to a cup of boiling water from a kettle (not rolling or bubbling just steaming). It's good to let the water cool a bit before adding the gel. If yo
  11. Hahaha, no, I’m sure it breaks the same way. I just found the glass to be more effective if you can get a shard with a decent edge. I did try with a razor blade, but didn’t get the same results. Maybe my blade was too blunt, it does need to be quite sharp to work and smashing some glass gives you lots of cheap little disposable blades.
  12. To get rid of the smudging, I’ve found that a good way is to use a shard of glass. Go out and smash a glass jar with a hammer and use one of the shards to scrape your deck. It makes it very clean without destroying the grain of the wood or taking off the caulking. An eraser could just make the smudging worse, it doesn’t work great on wood. You could also try methylated spirits or acetone.
  13. Okay, so now I’ll talk about my first coppering attempt, which did not go that well. First, choosing material; I initially was unsure about using copper tape as I was worried it would be too thin and not sticky enough. I was hoping to just find a thin sheet of copper, which I would then use to cut the plates out of. Eventually I found a wide copper tape from an electronics supply store. I then attempted to patina them with ammonia fumes. To do this, I suspended small pieces of the tape over a container of the liquid ammonia. I put a lid on the container and allowed the fumes to darken the copp
  • Create New...