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LucienL

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  1. After a few lessons from my Mum about how to use the sewing machine, I was ready to give sail-making a go. My stitching was not very neat but good enough for the level of quality I was going for. I stitched the sails to the spars and spent an evening rigging the ship and it was finally complete. My philosophy while building this boat was to throw myself into a new skill without trying too hard to achieve something perfect. I think I do have a stubborn perfectionist streak, but I figured that for my first boat, I would have to let a few things go in favour of learning a
  2. Okay, I managed to finish the masts, sails and rigging over the past week and I think I am ready to declare this ship finished. I do have to say, of all the tasks involved in this project, the sails and rigging collectively were some of the most difficult. I think I did get the hang of it eventually, but I do prefer the wood work. The masts were fairly simple just some tapering and sanding, adding the cleats was a bit fiddly but not too difficult. The stain I used was an oak, followed by a baltic with a very light walnut stain on top. The dowels were not very receptive to the stain
  3. Hi Craig, glad you found the blackening solution helpful. Gee you can really see how small the boat was when it's full scale. Crazy to think they managed to fit 19 people in there
  4. This part was tricky and required material not supplied in the kit. I had to buy some tiny brass tubes (3 mm diameter and 2 mm diameter) to form the hinges of the pintles and gudgeons. After shaping these pieces from the brass provided in the kit, I used some flux on the joints and held the tubes in place with some pliers. I dropped a bit of solder on the joints and heated the thing with a soldering torch. The solder moved pretty neatly into the joints and formed a pretty strong bond. After sanding and soaking in vinegar, the pieces were ready to be blackened. I could have do
  5. Once the thwarts containing mast helpers and the bow grate were glued in, the hull felt very stable and I removed it from the clamping setup to add the gunwales. This step caused the most frustration as one of the gunwales snapped at the tip while being held down preventing a neat joint at the bow. I think I probably weakened the piece when I glued on the breast hook and fiddled with it a bit. I then probably didn't cut enough material from the gunwales to fit the keel through the two pieces. I guess this is just something I have to live with, but it is a bit frustrating. I also probably didn'
  6. Holding the boat in shape overnight using my clamping setup really helped. The boat was much more willing to be held in place after that. After holding down most of the thwarts and using a strong slow-drying polyurethane glue, I felt that the hull had much more rigidity to it. I left the boat in the setup while I worked on the mast helpers. Apparently, over in the states, you guys can get brass blackening solution at gun shops. As an Australian, it is not so easy. I'm not sure if I wasn't looking hard enough, but I could not find a place to buy a brass blackening solution. On
  7. For staining, I used an oak stain on the inside and a walnut stain for the thwarts on an oak stained base. The instructions suggest a cherry stain, but finding that in Australia is somewhat difficult. The parts were finished using a clear wood varnish. Painting was done using a zinsser stainblocking primer (metho based) and a paint scheme consisting of the colours Natural white, Dragonstone (Taubmans) and Yukon Gold (Taubmans). See if you can spot the mutilated plank in the final photo. To draw the waterline, I stuck a pencil through a piece of polystyrene packaging material
  8. To bend the tween frames, I salvaged the broken parts from the jig and bent them to shape using those. This was moderately successful, but some frames weren't evenly spaced. This is a point where I probably should have redone a couple of the frames, but I figured that it would be barely visible and I was honestly sick of steam bending frames. Next step was floorboards, which went pretty well. I used the same method for the internal boards as I did for the external planks and soaked them in boiling water for a minute before holding them place with some fairly elaborate techniques (I
  9. The planking went relatively smoothly. I soaked each plank entirely in boiling water for around a minute before bending to shape on the frames using the modified bulldog clamps suggested by the instructions. I had some problems with the shutter plank (as it seems like most other build logs for this model did). It was somewhat overstated by the instructions how much wider the shutter plank had been laser cut and as a result it left some nasty gaps in the middle. Some posts on this forum suggested using sawdust mixed with wood glue to fill the gaps. I tried that and it worked pretty well, but so
  10. Hi there everyone, complete novice here but thought I'd post a log for this model kit. Back in probably 2011, my Dad and I were interested in building scale models, so we figured we'd start with a simple ship and work our way towards more difficult models. I was still in primary school at the time so when I say we, I really mean my Dad, while I watched and helped with simpler tasks. We made some decent progress with the Bounty's launch, but got as far as frames before my Dad's patience with the hobby ran out and the model sat on a shelf for the next 9 years. Pictured below is close to how the
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