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    Gothenburg - Sweden

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  1. Thank you all for the nice comments! I started nailing the hull almost a month ago and it has taken time as it is over a thousand nails. I have done other areas inbetween as you have seen and I really liked the outcome of the nailing of the decks so I looked forward of the hull being completed. But when the last nail was set and the painting started it looked all wrong. The paint got blotched! I did just like before; painted and after a wait I wiped off the excess and then used steel wool. But the nails was a dabbed in cyan glue and of course small speckles of it got on the planks an
  2. Thank you so much Ab, Chuck and Steven! Perhaps the nails after all looks better than I thought. The windlass is from a book I found when reading up on anchors. It's "Fartygsfynden i den forna hamnen i Kalmar" (The ship finds in the old harbour of Kalmar) by Åkerlund, 1951. It describes many finds and has really good plates in the end with drawings. The book is in swedish but has a seven page summary in English. Anyone can just ask me if you want something translated or clarified. The book can be downloaded here https://sjohistoriskasamfundet.files.wordpress
  3. I feel as if treading water in the build as it goes so slowly. The main reason I think is all the work with finishing the hull, it will hopefully soon be finished and I'll talk more about the trials and tribulations then. Please ignore how all the nails are highlighted... But the rudder and windlass is done! The tiller and the sides of the windlass are carved in oak and it was a nice change from the fir, I definitely now see why one should build in harder woods. The drum of the windlass is based on the Kalmar 1 find. I have always struggled with
  4. This is just an amazing build! It must feel great, and strange, to have it finished now. I'm reading through the whole log now and learns a lot, eg. the pump in the front is not a waterpump as I thought but a flame thrower!
  5. Nice to see how the build comes along! And nice picture of the forestay with the hearts! That's an idea I think I'll steal to my ship.
  6. Amazing build! It's very interesting to follow and thank you for posting the GIFs, they are very helpful!
  7. The foredeck looked like this to recieve a seperate bowsprit But instead I extended the stempost and remade bits of the deck. We can say that part of that plank on the deck was damaged and a new insert was nailed there. I can not imagine a worse place on the ship for a scarf joint as the forces here are quite severe. So I nailed an iron plate (made of brass) as reinforcement to addition to two treenails. The funny thing is that the stempost used to be almost of this lenght. My original plan was to have an i
  8. Nice to see a build of a swedish boat! It will be most interesting to see how the longboat developed and what solutions you come up with for the rigging.
  9. I have slept on this and practically all cogs have bowsprits. And so must mine. But I think I got a solution that I like - I'll extend the stempost and use that as a short bowsprit. That will both fit with finds and my design intentions. And in other news: I have got a tattoo of my ship! It's not a tattoo depicting the ship but a tattoo that the ship gave me. A splinter got pretty deep in a finger a week ago and left a fair amount of the dark paint when removed and I guess the dot will be there for a couple of years.
  10. Steven, thank you for your thoughts on this! Yeah, I see this ship as provincial and they wouldn't bother with flags and stuff. Thinking more about it I think I will remove the bowsprit altogether, it will require rebuilding the foredeck, but I want to understand all the features I have on the ship and at this point I simply don't understand why it would have a bowsprit. I also want the ship to have a sturdy feeling to it and this pointy thing in front doesn't fit in.
  11. Thank you Steven and Binho! Yes Steven, I got really good help in the other thread. This is a really good forum for advice, and I need some more later in this post if you have the time. I got a simple solution for the problem with the forward bulkhead blocking movement of the boom - the three planks of the bulkhead are each individually removable. I once again used the bowsprit as a stand in for the boom. And whilst on the topic of the bowsprit I've been thinking more about why I even have one. I thought earlier that I would have bowlines running to it, bu
  12. Good thougths regarding timing, I'm stuck in the modern concept of just in time delivery and have a hard time imagining a ship waiting for days for favorable winds, but yeah, you are right about it. There have been three replicas built of the bremen cog and they seem to also have lifts and braces, but no bowlines. They are also bigger then my cog and I don't think the lifts will be necessary but I think it could have been good to have braces as most square sailed ships my size seem to have them. I think I'll skip the bowlines. I partly planned to have them as the bowspr
  13. Thank you Roger for the input and as I'm new to sailing I want to make sure that I understand you correctly; you mean that the only running rigging should be halyard and sheets? I thought I also would add braces and bowlines. Thank you Jan, you are of course correct that the ship couldn't be drawn on the Zuiderzee, but not even along the rivers as they also must have had very soft edges. I wonder how they did it as it sounds hard to punt a 20 ton ship.
  14. The gangways lets the crew cross the hold without having to crawl over the cargo and a sturdy beam spans the hold to keep the hull from bulging out. Rosebolts keeps it in place. The twin mast steps for the bipod mast are in place, and they act as steps to get up on the gangways. The hold has a nailed down ceiling to keep the cargo out of the bilge, but the planks in the middle are loose for cleaning out dirt. The planks are roughly sawn with natural edges. I've started with the mast and will have a boom for lifting cargo, here shown with t
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