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silverman834

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About silverman834

  • Birthday 01/03/1980

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    Gothenburg - Sweden

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  1. @Roger Pellett, @turangi and @Bob Cleek thank you for the responses! I couldn't remember the grain raising on my last model on the unbent pieces and of course it's as you said that oil paint doesn't do it.
  2. I'm building a ship and most pieces are bent in hot water, so the grain is raised and then sanded smooth. I will later on stain everything with oil based paints. I guess I should I also put the pieces I don't paint in water to raise the grain to prevent it from happening after painting when it will be hard to sand? PS: I guess you want to know that I'm using pear wood.
  3. @Mark Pearse Thank you! Joggle stick, that's a good word for it. It looks good now after having the floors in tension through the night, what a relief.
  4. So I started doing the floors. The ceiling covers eight floors in the middle so that's a good starting point. As I remove the hull from the mould there is a slight deformation, but nothing to worry about there. I copy the hull shape using this method I've seen here and it works out nicely and I spend a couple of days of the vacation almost finishing all eight floors. It looks pretty good and I clamp some of the floors to the hull and put it back on the mould. It doesn't fit!!! I was ready to throw away the floors and do at least a couple of them with the hull on the mould (I made it quite spacious with this in mind...), but after I have stepped back for a while and taken a fresh look I will try and bend the floors sligthly to get the correct shape. The plan is to have the hull on the mould and then clamp the floors to it. Let's see how that goes. Post script: I think this error was always there when I removed it from the mould, but it was so easy to bend it back that I didn't think so much about it. But the floors solidified the error and now it took a lot more power to bend it back.
  5. Five out of nine strakes done. These are the strakes that is carvel built midships. And now I will take a break from planking and do some frames. Most of the frames are of three parts; floor and two futtocks. Looking at the drawings of the wreck I see that one could say that the floor parts cover the carvel built areas and the futtocks are used for the clinker built parts of the strakes. I enjoyed making the cargo in the last build and I have already started some of that work by reading books with titles like 'The ploughs of medieval Denmark' and such like. I never thought the history of ploughs was this exciting! My partner is amazed of how I seem to be able to be enthral by almost any subject...
  6. @Chuck Seiler yes, I'm using brass black and it kind of failed on these nails. I read instructions of diluting the solution but didn't think it was importent. It is. I think the nails I'm nailing now will stay darker.
  7. @Mark Pearse I've tried a couple of different ways to clench the nails, and right now I start the bend by pressing with a left over plank and then complete it and push the head into the wood using a polygrip with brass plates to protect the wood. I think this gives me more control then using a hammer but we'll see if I find a better way
  8. @Chuck Seiler Thank you, and yes, it bends so much easier! At first I thought something was wrong as it was so easy. @Mark Pearse Thank you for the great advice! Now I first soak the planks and then hit it with the heat gun. I feel like I get more consistent results by soaking them first, but I guess one could just use dry heat with training. The planking has started and I'm most impressed by the work they did on this ship. The largest planks are gigantic and it is so hard to imagine them heating them over an open fire before clamping it in place. The planking is quite special on some cogs as it generally is clinker built, but has a carvel built area where the hull contacts the beach at low tide. And it is also flush at the posts. This transition between carvel and clinker is sometimes mid-plank and sometimes at the scarf joints. The ship feels stable and I'm able to remove it from the mould to attach the nails. It's much easier to clench them now instead of waiting 'til the hull is finished. the clenched ends are a bit long and I'll try to make them 1mm shorter in the future.
  9. I missed your previous post about your injury! It looked painful and I'm glad it has healed enough for you to use the finger again. And nice work with the shroud pins.
  10. After building some furniture for the cats in the new apartment I finally have time to build more on this ship. First off I ordered some pear wood from Germany. Now I understand why people said that I shouldn't have use fir in my last build! This wood is just fantastic! Almost no grain and makes really crisp edges. I ordered 2mm sheets for the planking and 12x25mm (1/2×1") for posts etc. It saws really nice with my fine pull saws. The mould for the hull is built and the backbone of the ship - stem and sternpost, hooks and keel plank. They are held to the mould by removable wire with shrink tubing and two screws through the keel plank. I used dry heat to bend the keel plank and will try it on the planks as well.
  11. Congratulations for finishing it! It looks really good and the way you made the rivets is brilliant.
  12. @bolin yeah, pretty overkill I guess, but I would like to bevel it when it is assembled and don't worry about the sturdiness. Perhaps I don't use the dowels, but it doesn't hurt to prepare for them
  13. Looking good! Thank you for the explanation of the beitass - I've seen it used but now I better understand it.
  14. Change of strategy, it will all be built shell first. I really disliked how 'artificial' the frames in my old build was. Photographs of finds always shows much more 'organic' shapes and I see that look in builds here that are built shell first. The mold will be in 6mm birch plywood The mold will be adjusted in the ends as I build the stem, sternpost, hooks and keel plank. But I can start in the middle and see how it works out
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