Jump to content

Brinkman

Members
  • Posts

    154
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Brinkman

  1. Thank you for the kind reactions on my photo. Many years ago I was into photographing and it was fun to think about composition again. Joachim & Håkan: Thank you, but the photo exaggerates the size a bit as I used a fisheye effect to get the lines in te background as I wanted. But yes, just under 1m is still quite large. Mark: I like the magnifier a lot and it actually has two drop down lenses that can be used in any combination.
  2. Thank you for the likes! Mark: Thank you, and it will be very interesting when doing the crew and cargo and see how that effects the sense of scale. My work place has a photo competition and my contribution is of me working on this ship. I work in a design department and many are into photographing and photoshopping, so only unedited mobile phone images was allowed to level the playing field. I really dislike photos where people obviously are fake working, but I did it anyway here...
  3. Thank you for the likes! Steven: Thank you very much! The secondary hold got it's ceiling. I wanted this area to be separated in style but still connected to the main hold. The separate areas are connected by lining up the planks, but differ by the ceiling being open or closed and how the edges adapts to the round hull - while the last planks in the main area are shaped, the last planks in the secondary area are simply cut off. The connection between the planks is a hidden scarf joint that surely is not historical, but it looks good and helped lining up the planks. I mentioned that the wood supply is running low. Some time ago I laid aside two pieces reserving them for the bulkheads, but now I see that I need larger pieces. Let us see if the remaining piece of timber is long enough: Yup, it's long enough. Sometimes you really need to be lucky when you don't plan your work in advance.
  4. Thank you for all the replies! And for the nice words about my model. Yes. I should have painted this before attaching the stringer. I really wanted to see how it looked and couldn't wait to let the paint dry... At least I didn't repeat the same mistake with later parts. Chuck, excellent tip with the crooked tips! Druxey and Bob, at least everything will be painted in the same tar coloured wash. But it's good to know how to protect the surfaces otherwise. Glen, ship in a bottle builders sure has to come up with some ingenious tool adaptations! I think I will try using cut offs from make up sponges held with by tweezers and use a generous amount of my wash and linseed mix and let capillary action transport it where I can not reach.
  5. Hello all, I'm nearing completion on the hull I'm building and have tried to wait with painting for as long as I could to minimise wood dust on painted surfaces. I have painted some areas before mounting parts that will partly cover them. But I didn't do it everywhere. Do you have any tricks and tips for painting hard to reach areas? I'm using oil based paints.
  6. I felt a bit frustrated a week ago when I was disappointed with the ceiling after having spent time and resources on it. But it was quick to remove the planks make the new ones. Part of the frustration stems from a dwindling supply of my pear wood. I didn't know how much I should buy when I started on the project so I thought I would order just enough to start so I had to order more when it would be easier to estimate how much I needed. But it seems like I ordered pretty much the exact amount so each time I have to discard something I worryingly look at what I have left. But I'm much happier with the new ceiling. I left a sub millimeter gap between the planks for a hint of the floors and futtocks. I thought I would just use straight planks, but as the the ceiling climbs further up on the sides the curvature increases and I had to spile to keep the gaps constant. Other times I bent planks I used hot water but I couldn't do it here so I instead used a heat gun to make them more pliable. 'Ceiling' is a good and rational word, but in Swedish we use the word 'garnityr' that comes from the same root word as 'garniture' and in everyday Swedish it means cake decorations making it quite funny when it is used here. The planks look a bit dirty as I painted the edges before mounting. I mentioned earlier that I interpret this area to be the main hold and I will add low bulkheads at both ends. On the sides of the ceiling we have a small area left and I'll later see how to fill it. Fore of the ceiling we have the secondary hold area. Here I think I will have a more simple ceiling with more narrow and thinner planks with wide gaps. These gaps can later be covered with loose planks where needed . And then knees will help keep the mast step in place.
  7. Mark, I also thought about loose panels at least in the middle to clear the bilge from debris. But I don't see any evidence for it. Reading through the sources again I see both ceilings with gaps and without, so I wasn't really as wrong about that as I thought earlier this evening. But I think it will look better with minimum gaps. Most ceilings were fixed with treenails, probably for longitudinal strength of the hull. Ripping the new planks went much faster then I first thought it would.
  8. Two steps forward, and one back. I have started on the ceiling by first painting the area that will be covered and then laying planks. But I'm not feeling it. I do not understand why I put in the spacing between them and why I used short planks. Looking at Almere Wijk 13 the planks were put tight together and were even longer then mine would be. I will remove them even if that will be hard because of the treenails. The paint I'm using is a 50-50 mix of oil based wash and linseed oil. The edges of the planks are also painted why it looks a bit dirty. Edit: After giving it some thought I think removing them will be pretty easy. I will just drill away the treenails and only one of them were glued to the floors so it will be easy. Resawing all the planks by hand on the other hand will not be so easy.
  9. Thank you @Mark Pearse! It is indeed made from brass. I ground a piece of brass pointy in both ends and then curved it making sure to anneal it frequently to keep it malleable. And then solded it to another piece and blackening it after tidying up the solder. The only use of the proto bowsprit was to hold the bowlines. On larger ships of war it could also be used for grappling hooks.
  10. I don't browse these modern boards very often and had totally missed your current build Håkan! It's very fascinating to see all the engineering that goes into building a ship like this and is a must follow. Your jig that you clamp your hull to when planking looks really efficient with great access to the inside.
  11. But back to the bowsprit before doing the ceiling. Or rather, back to the proto bowsprit. So, two weeks ago I was almost ready to bet money on me removing the bowsprit from scope. I had tried for a month to come up with a way to mount it that I felt was suitable and just couldn't find any. Then I read on this forum someone calling this kind of bowsprit 'proto bowsprit'. I really liked this as the function of it is something totally different from what we normally call a bowsprit and using a different name for it helped me move away from the conventional ways to fasten a bowsprit. And a week ago I started to look into the Gedesby find for inspiration for rope and I saw that there had been a full scale reproduction made of that ship, Agnete, and it had this kind of proto bowsprit! But I couldn't find any good picture of how the lower part was fastened. There was a book written of Agnete and I had to loan it from a library abroad which could take time. Then this Friday I got a message that I could collect the book. That made my cogs spin a bit faster and while at work I finally came up with the simplest way to fasten it - with a step. The end of the proto bowsprit should of course just rest in a mortise in a wooden block. At the end of the day I got the book, but there was no picture showing this area, but that didn't matter now. The spar itself is not the one I will use, but I think it will be something like this in size. The step is placed off center to clear the proto bowsprit from the fore stay. I'm really glad that I could use a similar crutch to what in this seal. First I planned on using a branch but I think a forged crutch just looks so much better. A simple lashing will hold the spar to the crutch.
  12. Thank you for your input Håkan! You are right and in order to better protect the rudder I added a sacrificial heel. I have started to look into the ceiling of the hold. The hold itself will be divided in two parts - fore and aft of the mast beam, where the later one will be the primary compartment. The ceiling in this part will have thicker boards. And to get an even thickness on my hand sewn planks I used the dremel: I've seen woodworkers on Youtube use this technique with full size tools to plane large boards so I thought I could try it too. The surface quality actually turned out quite ok. The planks were just hot glued to the plywood.
  13. Thank you for the quick answers! Then I will proceed with test samples of different mixes.
  14. So, I have started to do some test painting for my current build of a 15th century cog. It is in pear wood and I would like a Stockholm tar look. I have a tar coloured oil based wash but it is too dark for my liking. I tried mixing it with turpentine and did not like the consistency at all. But when mixing it 50/50 with linseed oil I got something that I really liked. But I was told by some hardware store staff not to do it. Is there some reason by I should not mix these two oil based products?
  15. Thank you all for the likes! Here is the rudder. I really liked the elegant flow of it and it felt wrong to keep the rudder boxy in cross section so I gave it a simple hydrodynamic shape.
  16. Thank you Chuck, it means a lot to hear it from you. Regarding the rigging I just remembered that I recently read about the Gedesby find from Denmark which is very unique as much of the rigging was intact! The ship was of similar size as mine, but about 150 years earlier. I will look more into that ship and a replica that was made in the 90s for inspiration.
  17. First off, I changed my screen name. My old one was a screen name I came up with 20 years ago and nowadays I usually just go by my real name. Thank you all for the likes! Steven: Thank you, I'm so much happier with the knees now! Wintergreen: Yes, what you say sounds reasonable. Thank you and I will keep it in mind in the future. Chuck: I love that camera angle so much that I'll reuse in today's post as well. And it was well timed of you to leave a comment here as I was just about to cite one of your posts regarding ropes. It was very interesting to make the coaming for the gang ways. The gang ways curves and as the coaming has a lean to it it gives it quite a difficult shape. Both the Almere Wijk 13 and NM107 cogs had this kind of gang way with coaming. The coaming probably both gives longitudinal strength and defines the hold. I have also started to look more into to the rigging and made some more rope samples. On my last model I made the ropes from linen, but after reading this post from Chuck I tried making them from Gütermann's thread and they look so much more defined. The samples range in scale from ⌀8mm (⌀5/16") to ⌀27mm (⌀1 1/16"). The two different colours are of course to represent plain rope and tarred rope. All but the second from the right are three plied and that one is four plied. I think I will have two shrouds on each side like Kalmar I that is of similar size and I have ordered The Rigging of Ships in the days of the Spritsail Topmast (1600-1720) for some inspiration on dimensions even if these ships of course are of much later date. Next up is the rudder.
  18. Thank you Roger. Yes, these these eyes are basically made the same way as grommets! I would very much like to have lines like this on the model, but it would be very fiddly to make ropes this way and not to use a rope way so I don't know. Now I feel much better about my build. All the time during the build of both this model and my last model I have thought about how to belay the lines. I have hardly seen any medieval cleats and on models and reproductions of ships I always see lines just tied to some stringer. This has in my eyes always looked haphazardly and I really wanted cleats. But now I have succumbed and realized how convenient it must be to belay to stringers as there are suitable belaying points all over the ship then. So I installed a stringer and it looks much more intentionally then I thought it would be and I'm really happy with it. And the second thing that irked me was of course the knees. They were far too heavy. So I started to grind away as much material from them as I just possibly could. And the next day I looked at them again and thought maybe I could remove a little bit more? And this was repeated several times until they were much lighter then before and I think they now looks the part. While I still saw everything by hand I have bought a small disc sander and mounted my dremel like a router table. These were of great help with the knees! This ship would of course often be bailed. While larger cogs had pumps I don't think this one had. I handle the water that comes onto the fore deck so it runs into the corners where the short end of the gang way planks will direct it to a hole between knee and gang way plank where it will run to the keel plank. Then it will run in limber holes under the floors to the bilge. At the bilge it would be hard to bail it over the caprail as one would have to climb upp the sides and reach over the gang way. So one can instead bail it onto the aft deck where the water will run to the corners where it will run out through outlets.
  19. Thank you for the likes and for the comments! You are absolutely correct Mark, thank you for pointing it out. I will make the knees slimmer, and I will also remove the cleats, at least from the two foremost pairs. And add a stringer along the caprail for belaying rope.
  20. Thank you for the likes! Yes Håkan, I think it's really interesting how design derived from long ships and cogs remained common here in the Scandinavian countries into the 20th century. The six knees that helps holding the beams are made and I have cleats on them. But I'm not feeling it. Something is wrong. Maybe I should make them slimmer? I based this on Kalmar I, but now I realized only the knees aft have the cleats, perhaps the protruding part should be cut off from the other two pairs?
  21. Thank you for the likes! The windlass is in place. I used Kalmar 1 for the size and general shape as that ship is of the same size, but Almere wijk 13 for the hole pattern as that ship is closer in location and time. The axle of the drum is not the correct one in this image. I planned to have it integrated in the drum like on the originals, but then I would not be able to remove the drum as the supports locks it in place. So I use loose pieces for the axle. But they will only stick out about 1mm and therefore can not either be removed once in place. Therefore I use temporary longer pieces for the axle before the final assembly.
  22. Thank you for the encouraging words and likes ! I've been looking more at bowsprits and I really want this to be temporarily fastened, one I saw was just lashed to a thwart. When it's just being used to hold the bowlines, then it doesn't have to be so rigid. I have to think more about this. So in the meantime I made the beam that sits midships, the sailbeam as it later was called as it supported the mast. The main function seem to be to hold the shape of the hull. While larger cogs had the beams pierce the hull timbers, these smaller cogs seem to have used large bolts called rose bolts to keep the hull deforming. This doesn't seem to have been a good solution as there often are damages on the strakes around the bolt from the concentrated forces. And then I made the gangways so the crew do not have to crawl over the cargo to move around. I think these strong timbers also acted as stringers to help with the longitudinal strength of the hull. At first I planed to have them constant to the sheer line, but that would make them very bowed. And making them straight would take them very close to the sheer line. So I made them in between. The original gangways on the find I based them off were eight meters long! I can not take in how they managed to handle such a heavy timber and make all the notches over the futtocks! I also started on the keelson when it still was easy to access the floor timbers. Both rosebolts, gangways and keelson are inspired by the Almere wijk 13 find. Next thing I would like to work on is to make the coaming of the gangway (green), but before doing that I have to make the knees (red), and before doing that I must make the windlass (blue).
  23. Hello all, it was a long time ago I logged in here! My build stopped 1.5 years ago because I just couldn't figure out how I wanted the bowsprit and life in general got in the way. One thing I did in the meantime that relates to shipbuilding is that I wrote a monograph on medieval ropemaking. You can download it here if interested: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wo9crW_uUZJOujZHc1JozL4aGPHuU_Lc/ And the most interesting thing I found out that is related to this forum is that I could not find any evidence of eye splices in this time period in northern Europe. But there is this thing callad a laid eye that literature sometimes mistake for eye splices. The difference is very significant in how they are formed as an eye splice is made by first making the rope, and then splice the eye on the end of it. But a laid eye is made at the same time as the rope is formed and is made with the bight of the strands instead of the ends. One version of the laid eye looks like this when it is being made. So anyways, two days ago I once again felt energized to continue on this ship! As I said I was unsure of how to fasten the bowsprit because I really didn't like the idea of using knightheads. But now I succumed and did it anyway after planking the fore deck and it looked like this: And I really don't like it! I will remove the knightheads and fasten the bowsprit much more forward somehow so it looks more like this, but even closer to the stem:More like this: And I really, really want to add this thing seen on many representations of cogs. I don't know the english word for it, but they are called 'mastamickar' in swedish which roughly translates to 'mastsupports' and was used to support the yard when not in use and apparently also the bowsprit. I'm glad to be back and am trying to catch up on all the builds a followed and all the new ones!
  24. Regarding the Foredom drills I had only seen the SR version that goes up to 18 000 rpm. Sure, I can throttle it back, but than I don't nearly get the torque that the higher rpms get. But now I saw their LX that goes only up to 5 000! That looks like what I'm looking for! Now I just need to find a shop with it in the EU. Yes, I really like the idea of them, except that they are two handed.
  25. The tool I have that I dislike the most to use is my dremel for drilling. When drilling I like to go very slowly taking my time. And that high pitched noise of the dremel wants you to do it fast and hastily. I like pin vises a lot. But the pains in my hands don't like them. Is there any high torque drill in the size of a dremel with low rpm? I'm not talking low rpms in the 10 000s lika a proxxon but perhaps closer to a 1 000? And with a trigger or footpedal that isn't a simple on and off switch. And that is quiet. Like a normal cordless drill but smaller. I've read about Foredoms. I like many things about them, but they also have their high rpms as a major selling point.
×
×
  • Create New...