Dale Hallier

Thanks for the reply James.

Do you think that these paints would have to be airbrushed only, or could they be applied with brushes and still approximate the weathered effect? Can you further describe the difference between version 1 and 2, because I really have appreciated your review and would like to purchase this for my next build. Thanks for all your work!

Your build is looking great-glad to see your progress!

Thanks Penfold. I am doing a much simpler Victory cross section next and then I will try the Bluenose and see if I can get the planking looking as good as yours!

Thanks guys. I think part of the problem is that the start of the ship is so easy and quick with the bulkheads that it seems easy, but then the more challenging work is yet to come! Still, a good experience for me. On to a Victory cross section next.

Well, almost 15 months to the day and she is finished! I made the four ship's boats and placed them on the skids (unfortunately blocking so much hard work under them that no one will ever see) and put in the dummy cannons. After flags were added, it is a finished model. Things could be improved, but I have really enjoyed the process and learned a lot. I am relieved to finally complete this mammoth project! Now it can rest in a place of honor at home - and I still have to make a case!

About six weeks since my last post, and I have made lots of progress. After adding the topgallant shrouds, I finally began (with some trepidation) the process of the ratlines. The company provided ratline guides sized correctly for each ratline needed which was a huge help in keeping the ratlines level and spaced properly. The instructions suggested an alternative way to do the ratlines to avoid scale issues with the clove hitches that I used, and found it really successful. I know the purists will be shocked that I passed on several thousand clove hitches, but in truth this technique resulted in really well spaced ratlines that were perfectly level, and so I am satisfied with the results. I used a needle to thread the ratline thread through each of the vertical shrouds using the guides provided, and just used glue on the outer shroud edges to seal the ratlines. It still took several days as threading through .8mm and .5mm thread was not simple, but the results were good, and I can only imagine how long the clove hitch method would take. You can see the results in the attached photos. After the ratlines were done, I added the mizzen and the jib and flying jib. While I slowly added the main sails, I also put the ship's lanterns on the stern, finishing the detail here. I spent quite a while working on the figurehead and motto strip, and despite next to no artistic talent, I was happy with the result when the job was done. Much of the sail work and rigging doesn't show well in photos, so I just added a few pictures. The bottom two yards were held to each mast with a parrel assembled here. I did attach some pictures showing the growing complexity of rigging on the ship. All the sails are now attached. I like the look, but can see why many would choose a bare spars option, as you could see so much more of the ship and rigging that way. My wife likes it though, and she is an important audience to please! Today just attached the anchors and am closing in on completion of the build. Just a few ship's boats and final rigging and flags to attach and I will be done!

It has taken me two months to do the last 10 stages of the ship (out of 120). Some of the tasks (hammock rolling and netting, shrouds and deadeyes, gun port lids) simply took a long time and were repetitive in nature, so I took more breaks - and summer time had lots of other pursuits besides staying inside modelling! I used the same assembly line mode to make the gun port lids, priming the hinges to take paint better and cutting the hinges to fit, cutting gun port lids to size, then adding the hinges and painting the outer door face black. Next I turned them over and painted the outer three faces and the inside face red. I added the thread before mounting the lids on the ship just to minimize my working with the lids in case I damaged them. After that, I inserted one end of the thread into the holes I drilled in the side of the ship, and once the glue was dry then cut off the ends at the gun port. A bit tedious, but looks good when completed! My only issue was the usually comprehensive instructions told me to make 60 lids, but as I began fixing them on the ship I saw that I was 2 lids short, and I actually needed 62... so I began the assembly process all over again for the last 2 lids. That is what happens when you turn off your brain, and rely too much on the instructions given! I still say though, that this model is possible for anyone because of the depth of the instructions. That is why when I read about Chris Watton telling James Hatch to make the instructions for his new Sphinx model as long and detailed as needed, that I knew I wanted to work on some of his Vanguard models. I think poor or scanty instructions are why so many new modelers give up - with clear photos and text, so much more is possible, even for inexperienced modelers such as myself. I hope Vanguard models is successful, because I think that Chris Watton is really showing established companies where they should be. A welcome break was forming the four ships lanterns. The Admiral's lantern is shown here attached to the main top. The stern lanterns will be attached later. Very excited to add my first sails! I debated whether to do the bare spars' option, but my wife and friends really felt sails were the way to go, so I will be adding them. I do see why many prefer the bare spars, as the sails do obscure a lot of the rigging. I have set the main and main topmast staysails, and the mizzen and mizzen topmast staysails. I also added top ropes for all three masts, but like so much of the rigging it doesn't really show well in pictures. The next 10 stages will see yards and more sails fitted, as well as working on some of the ship's boats. I think in 2-3 months I will finally bring this project to a close.

Thanks Penfold! Just about done with the gunpoint lids...then on to more rigging. I am enjoying that part, but trying not to think about all the knots in the ratlines to come!

Haven't updated this build log for a while as most of the rigging work doesn't make for great pictures. although is consuming lots of time! I finished the second of the two carronades and placed it on the deck. Instructions were very clear as always. Next I worked on securing the shrouds and adjusting the deadeyes. Even though I used a jig to make sure all the deadeyes were even before I seized the shrouds, the results were mixed - mostly even, but some not even at all. There was no drinking involved, but I sometimes wonder what happened when I finish a task. Here I added the catharpins, which are the transverse rigging lines running behind the mast which attach to the futtock stave (I used brass wire) that secure the base of the futtock shrouds. I seized the futtock shrouds from each top to the shrouds on each mast. I added the boomkins to either side of the bowsprit, and the netting protecting the bow area. After constructing the gangboard, I attached it and fitted the main stay attachments. Next were the fore stay and preventer and the mizzen stay and preventer connecting the masts together, with the latter shown in this picture. I am now working on making the 60 remaining gun port lids, and will post more pictures as I continue...stage 97 of 120!

I feel the same at times with the Victory. Because of the size of the ship, there is a lot of " make 50 of this" and do this 124 times! I just plug along and over time get the jobs done, but this is why my next build will be a smaller ship.

The instructions are available to download on the AL site for free now.

I ordered this model from a Canadian distributor called Sunward Hobbies, and they had the option to get full colour instructions printed out for just $15 Canadian (about 7 pounds for you). That is way less than I could print it myself, so thanks for the warning - when I finish Victory I will be ready to go!

Thanks so much reklein. Where the instructions are very clear, I have had some success, and where left to my own devices, the mistakes creep in (like the chainwale attachment to the hull). Still, I am (mostly ) pleased with how it is turning out. My next projects will not be such a massive undertaking! Will you post a build log when you start Syren? I would be interested to see how it turns out. I loved the pictures showing your pile driver. The detail for your diorama is incredible!

I see you are working through the Beagle now. My first build was from Occre, so it will be interesting to see how you feel Occre compares with Artesania Latina. I was a biology teacher, so I want to build the Beagle someday because of the connection with Charles Darwin. Maybe I should just let you pick all my future models, and I can follow you and learn from your mistakes! I am also interested in Vanguard models by Chris Watton because of his really clear instructions. With clear instructions, I think you can build almost anything. Well, except when I mess up by not paying enough attention to centering things!