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    Was Langley, BC Canada now St. Helier, Jersey, Channel Islands

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  1. First hull plank edge bent with travel iron to get vertical curve about right and glued into position around mid ships prior to bending horizontal curve in towards the bow in place using the same method.
  2. Wow. Fascinating technical discussion. Thanks. On reflection I realize that the plank probably needs to be bent beyond desired set before applying heat because it will always spring back a bit afterwards. If this is correct, bending around bulkheads probably not ideal because initial overbending obviously not possible. Now have my eyes on the Admiral’s wooden rolling pin as a bending former!
  3. Just completed my first plank edge bending initiative to match the deck lift towards the bow of the model using Chuck’s travel iron method. Went well. Now I need to bend the same plank in the opposite plane to follow the curve in to the bow. Started thinking about what to use as a former for this bend and realized that the curve created by the bulkheads was a candidate. In other words bend the plank in situ on the model with the travel iron. Is this a good idea? Will there be a tendency to lose the vertical bend in the same plank as I go down this route? Suggestions please.
  4. Deck planking completed but not the way the kit instructions contemplated. They wanted me to paint the deck, which obviously an easy solution for beginners, but I wanted the challenge of allowing the individual planks to show. Seems to have come out quite well. The planking on the raised stern section is better than the main deck as my skills improved. Next step is to start planking the hull which can start next week when my plank bending travel iron arrives!
  5. So progress has been quite slow but steady. Used a small (6”) rasp to fair the edges of the bulkheads, much faster than sand paper and the rasp handle gives good control. An ultra cheap set of miniature files and rasps from the internet was a good investment. Still need to fine tune the fairing by trial fitting of a plank. Then went on to plank the main deck using a 2B pencil on the edges of the planks to make the joints stand out. A fair amount of lead smudging is dirtying the deck but trust that a little light sanding will clean this up before applying a light coat of matt polyur
  6. The model scale is 1:35 and is one of the standard beginners kits - Mare Nostrum. I have a lot to learn! The fishing line solution for deck nails sounds exotic but, being a total beginner, I’m looking for something a little simpler. The kit instructions are generally excellent but on this topic they do little more than hint at showing deck nails. See red dots on attachments! Looks like medium CA would meet my needs if I decide not to use wood glue. Thanks everyone.
  7. A couple of questions. Firstly CA glues for modellers seems to come in three grades. Very thin and fast setting which I associate with fixing broken China through an intermediate grade to the thickest and slowest setting. I don’t think I want to order the thin fast stuff for planking but am undecided about ordering the intermediate or slow CA. Suggestions please. Secondly I want to simulate the effect of deck planking nails. Presumably I need a technique that will allow me to accurately place a minute quantity of ink(?) on the chosen spot which will not get smudged later when I brush
  8. After gluing all the bulkheads discovered that one was misaligned. I had carefully ensured that they were all set at right angles to the false keel (in plan view) using clamps and Lego blocks. After the glue dried I looked along the keel line from the bow and discovered one (only!) frame was slightly rotated. Time to discover ungluing! Discovered that I could not buy isopropyl alcohol locally and the substitute of surgical spirit proved useless. Ordered what I needed from the internet, to fix inevitable future problems, and decided that I could use sanding to deal with the immediate issue with
  9. Installing bulkheads going very smoothly and will soon be on to planking. The illustrations in the instructions show a vary basic planking techniques which I suppose is appropriate for beginners. Things like tapering a plank to a sharp point to fit the gap. I could go down this route, but having studied the planking advice on this site I’m going to try for something a bit more sophisticated, partly as a personal challenge but also because I’m still undecided whether or not my workmanship will be adequate to use a natural finish on the model - which I know will show every single defect!
  10. Finally work is underway! Opened the box and discovered the kit materials together with a DVD. Spent quite a lot of time studying the DVD which was valuable in planning ahead. Key sections of the DVD included a list of contents, pictures of the finished model, detailed photo based instructions and generic videos of various building techniques. Transferred the instructions to an IPad for ease of reference during construction. The instructions included a system of icons to identify repetitive things such as cut, sand, bend and glue. See picture. A few written instructions were also incl
  11. Thanks for your confidence in me Allan! As it happens, for reasons beyond my control, I will not be able to even open the kit box (Mare Nostrum) for several more weeks. This delay has given me many hours to think about and plan almost every stage of construction and it’s why I have been asking so many questions on different MSW forums. As a result I’m slowly gaining confidence in the planking challenge. Most recently I viewed Chuck’s plank (edge) bending video using a travel iron. Very interesting and quite a contrast to almost everyone else talking about bending planks in the o
  12. These two replies got me thinking. I’m planning that my first project will need double planking because the first planking layer will look so bad that either it needs heavy filling, sanding and painting or a second planking layer to cover up all the mistakes, If I install a second planking, is it reasonable to assume that these will not need edge gluing because then there is so much glued contact area on the underside that they will never move anyway? Or to put it another way, only single planked models need edge gluing (or Dr PR’s technique of internal painting) to give adequate stru
  13. In my full scale wood projects I have found that when regular wood glue squeezes out from a joint (and it always doesJ and I then try to wipe it off with a damp cloth, then no matter how hard I try to cleanup the wood the glue remains around the joint will stand out like a sore thumb after I have applied a clear coat finish. If I am to edge glue planking and want a clear finish on the hull, how do I address this potential problem? In full scale carpentry one solution is not to touch the squeezed out glue when still wet and remove it with a knife when at least semi-dried. I have great
  14. Interesting to read the feedback to my query. Nobody mentioned sanding sealer so I guess that’s out! My workshop is an apartment dining room table, an area that clearly falls within the Admiral’s personal jurisdiction, so any form of spraying is out of the question. Not yet sure how sanding will survive scrutiny from this higher authority but at least have access to a vacuum cleaner! Finishing the hull and deck with anything that involves rubbing, see tung oil and thinned poly comments above, sounds feasible but it’s tough to visualize this as practical for deck furniture. So it look
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