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Redshadowrider

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Everything posted by Redshadowrider

  1. @abelson To be honest, I haven’t worked on the ship for a few weeks now. This is a good time of the year for flying, and, I have had maintenance chores on several planes that has taken my time. As the fall progresses, I will get back to work on it and provide updates.
  2. One Down..... I don't even want to count how many to go. This is one frustrating phase on this build. I will say, that my absence from here is due mainly to not working on the ship for a couple of weeks. We have had some activities at our flying field that have occupied my time. Labor Day, yearly invitational with out of state flyers spending 5 days flying and B.S.ing. And it just won't turn to fall temperatures here. Now, I am back at it, but I still have miles to go. Here is my first rigged carronade. I think it came out ok considering how much detail is in such a small space. One thing I am going to look into is how to make the coiled rope touch the deck completely.
  3. One Down 71 to Go:😅 Got my first blocks and tackle in place on the carronade. Just 71 more, and I will be done.....uh-huh. Sorry about the picture quality in the close up. (I decided to remove the other picture. I thought this would be better.) It is not that visible without the glaring light and a little distance. Well back to the kitchen table. 👍 OOPS... For those expert riggers, you may have noticed that the outhaul block is at the back end of the carronade. Fear not, I noticed this when I went back to continue. It is now fixed and is attached to the bulwark. 😁
  4. Hooks & Tackles: I have completed the installation and bending of the hooks on each tackle. I counted enough (64) to be able to get through all of the carronades. In fact, just in case, I did 65, but in bending the hook, it "sproinged" off into never never land. It is possible that it fell right back into my pile of tackles and hooks, but time will tell. I am either even or 1 extra to complete the rigging of the carronades. In the pictures, you can see the completed tackles/hooks and also one that shows a small jig I put together for help in rigging each tackle assembly. Pics are below..... Newbie Tip: For gluing each tackle block and hook, I used a "glue looper" which is a tool I didn't even know existed. It is invaluable for gluing in small amounts in a small area. I recommend it highly. In the second picture, you can see a mixing cup tipped upside down. The small shallow cup is formed on the bottom and can be used for holding CA as you work through each tackle. The glue stays in liquid form until you are ready to fill the looper end. And it is still clean for mixing epoxy or paint, etc. later.
  5. Progress is Slow and Tedious: Unfortunately, my building area is in the garage. Most of the time it is bearable, but this time of year, it is a sauna. Indoor temps have been ranging around 95-100, and that doesn't figure in the heat index. Soooo, I got permission from the Admiral to temporarily do some constructing at the kitchen table. I have 4 carronades in place and breech lines attached, but have temporarily halted their install. And on top of that, we visited our first grandson for his 1st birthday, so I took a rest. I have started building out the tackles for the carronades, and am doing the wire for the hooks first. Once that is done, it will be time to bend them in a curve and snip off. So far, I have done enough for 7 carronades with one left for a single side of the Syren. It is going well, but drilling the small holes for the hook is a pin vise process. Any drilling under power ensures that I would probably have a lot of drill dust. 😄 ......but it is air conditioned.
  6. Second Cannon & Newbie Tip: I have completed the breech line on the second cannon, and had an idea how to make the sagging lines the same on both sides. I have colored the line with a couple of colors of pastel chalk (yellow orange and brown) then sealed it with bees wax. To keep the length on both sides of the cannon, I inserted a long pin through the line on each side under the base. I let it sit to allow the breech line to keep its shape and then carefully pulled it out. Both sides sag the same and are the same length. (I might do the first cannon over, but will wait to see how it looks with all the others.) My guess is it will fade into the background. I will now spend my time completing the starboard side and then onto the port. Unless I find something that really needs posting, I will wait until the starboard breech lines are completed for another update.
  7. Gotta give you a huge amount of credit @Overworked724 on your custom side projects. As a newbie to this hobby, I spend my time thinking how to make things easier. 😁
  8. I Think it is Passable: I did check the Syren Ship model site and the ropes section is under construction. It appears that the source of their rigging lines is changing. So, I decided to try with what I have since it is the very first time that I have worked rigging. Here is the breech line on the first cannon and I think it will pass. I was very clumsy at first, but as I progressed, I started to get a hang of the rigging line. It is going to be an adventure to say the least, but I think I can do it now. I have gained a new respect for those that do this as a hobby.... 👍
  9. Thanks, I will take a look at it. I was planning on using what is in the kit, but it will not be a big change since I have just started.
  10. Quick Question: I am having trouble finding the size of the thread used to lash the breach line to the rings on the bulwarks. Can someone answer this?
  11. It Ain't Purty, yet........ .....but I have got my first (very first) breech line in place. Newbie Tip: See that blue tape?.... It's there for a reason. After losing 2 eyebolts down to the lower deck, I sealed it up. 😄 Newbie Tip 2: If you are looking for a good source of information on how to run rigging, search on "Threading" There are a lot of threads to read, and some info on how to resolve.
  12. I am Stumped........ After going over the port and starboard onboard plans for cleats, eye bolts, and split rings, (feels like a thousand times), I am done adding them to the bulwarks. ……ready to start adding cannon. I am sure I have missed one or two rings, but I will find out soon. However, I am stuck and not sure where to look. I have searched, and have yet to find information on how to begin attaching the lines. I am trying to begin adding the breach lines first, and on the first cannon, I have yet to find a kind of guide. I do not know how to use the tools that I got from Micro Mark, nor do I know the process for running the breach lines through those tiny little rings and eye bolts. All I am looking for is either a thread, site, or place to read up on "how" it is done. When I look for it, I get a high number of responses, but they are how to build the block lines. With hooks, I have that figured out in my mind, threading the lines through the eye bolts has me stumped. I have added the pic for interest.... the breach line bolts on the cannon have been sized to accept the thread, which I have colored using chalk, and beeswax as a sealer. It's how do I thread the eye bolts as they are already installed. ⁉️
  13. "Tim the tool man." here.... 😄 Because this is from the perspective of a first timer for this type of work, I think it is beneficial if I include those hand built aids I come up with. I am probably, not the first, nor do I say these are fine engineering. They do get the immediate task done if and when I have a lot of repeats. Two Items here are the "eye bolt and split ring template" and the "multi-cleat pinning jig" Neither of which look like much...LOL, but they got done what I needed. The split ring template allowed me to mark all the gun ports on starboard and port without having to measure each one. I the template (shown) slips into the gun port from the deck side, and a fine point marker is used to locate the eye bolt and split ring positions. After marking one side, I drilled each hole for the bolt or split ring, It made it much easier to drill, then start inserting the parts. Keeps switching tools to a minimum, which I like. The "multi-cleat pinning jig" allowed me to take two medium soft "balsa" stock pieces and press each cleat along the edge of one. I used green tape to help hold them in position. Then the second balsa block was gently pressed over the cleats...pinning them in place. Then using a mini drill bit chuck on the press, I drilled the pin hole in the bottom. Before removing from the blocks, I glued in the pins, which were made using the cut off pieces of eye bolts for the pin. They are stiffer than the 28 gauge wire, and since I had saved them, they worked great.
  14. Building a Simple Tumbler... Several videos on the net can provide instructions on how to do these, so I will stay away from them and they are easy to find.. I did order a small one from Micro Mark, that just got here 45 minutes ago. Price comparison is that buying the parts to build one from scratch cost twice as much. 😀 Although, mine is metal, can be cranked with a handle, or a drill, with 400 grit sandpaper, it is taking a while to tumble the 300 some odd blocks. I also used sandpaper that has the "non-slip" backing for all of the internals. I find it lasts longer anyway, and the non slip is a bonus. Here are my pics... Final Note: Pay attention to how you insert and spin the internal flapping sander part. You will want to "drag" the sandpaper along the cans' edge, rather than push it around. Pushing just tends to rip the paper off of the center spindle. If your drill is reversible, you can change direction. I have run mine counter clockwise for 5 minutes, with my hand drill, and all parts are still in place.
  15. Well Here I Am: A bag of wood bits, a roll of wire (28 gauge), 18 carronades, and a roll of thread that could use better coloring. I am not really looking forward to this, but the decision has been to rig the Syren to include the rigging beyond the breach lines. I have decided to work the color of the breach lines to make it look more like large woven rope. The color that came with the kit is just too manufactured to look like real rope. So, I took a box of colored chalk that I have and began to try to change the breach lines look more real. I have arrived at a color I like, but stupid me, I forgot to keep track of the chalk that I used and how much.. 🤯 The main objective is to keep the lines similar enough in color, but not exact so that the breach lines do not look like thread. You can see my first attempt in the picture. I have 21 different chalk colors that I sand to make colored powder from. I usually use them for detailing the face of an RC Airplane pilot, but in this case it is the breach line. The other item is the 28 gauge wire, and the small, small, wooden blocks that need sanding.... Oh boy, can't wait. I can hardly see them let alone sand their shapes. But...I am gonna try. I went ahead and bought from Micro Mark, a tumbling canister. I will take about 30-40 of the blocks and run them through the tumbler in order to soften their edges. If this works like I have read in threads and posts, I should be successful. In any case, this will probably mean the next post will be around Thanksgiving...which in a weird way will be appropriate. LOL I will keep the log updated with pics and such, but I may not have much to show for awhile. "I am off to see the wizard...." hehe.
  16. I like that as well. When I have a small locking plastic bag I use that too. I need as much space as I can get. My workbench gets small no matter its size, when I am in working on something. Between each project , I start on one side of the bench , work my way over to the other side. Some things stay on the top of the bench, and others are put back where they should be. 🤭
  17. And A Side Note for Newbies: If you build like I do...not just the ships, but the RC stuff, there are usually 3 or 4 sub processes also underway. In this case, I am still adding all the deck hardware, i.e. split rings and eyebolts. Since I am always trying to work a little ahead when I can, I try to avoid having parts just sitting on the bench. I found something that I like just by accident. It may be an old tip, but it has worked well for me. When building an RC airplane, a lot of epoxy can be part of the assembly. I started using mixing cups, and still do, when I have a lot of epoxy to mix. For the myriad of small parts this type of model has, I started with a small set of drawer bins, but when I am working with the parts, I have them on the bench. I separated by type and put them in a mixing cup. Each different part gets its own cup, and then I stack them. The top cup can be left empty so it can serve like a lid. Your system may be the best, but this works for me and helps me find the parts when needed... Just look for the mixing cups.
  18. 18 Canon & 216 parts: When I started putting together the Carronades, I thought... I'm getting close to the deck furniture... 🤪 Damn, that was a real under estimation of how long it was going to take? 18 Canon, and 216 parts later, I am just getting ready to install them. I did them as the instructions indicate, down to the small dots of glue on each canon elevation handle. And I didn't even include 36 glue dots on each handle. Anyway, here are a couple of pics of the Carronades that are now set to be installed. Next step, to me is to go through each carronade breach and ensure that the breach line hole is big enough. Just by looking at them, I highly doubt it. So, they remain off the deck, until then. And before you laugh, yes, I have already read through some of the next steps. The creating of the blocks and ...hahahahahaha. I can't wait. 😃
  19. Thanks Patrick, I am pretty familiar with the CA glue types due to using them on my RC planes. The part that is new to me is the tiny parts that need so little of it. Parts that small don’t stay on a plane sporting a 30-35cc engine. 😁 Thanks for the tips that I will put to use.
  20. Thanks PRS. Since posting my question, I have found tools called Glue Loopers and they look like they will fit the bill. I will also look at getting the one from Micro mark. 👍
  21. Just a Quick Question: I am struggling with gluing the smaller parts as I progress with this build. I prefer to use CA, but have been using wood glue because it doesn’t wick like CA does. I do use an applicator similar to an eye dropper, but it still runs all over the place. I tried a syringe using and small gauge needle, but my first attempt led to it shooting pretty far. Luckily, it missed the Syren, so I stopped using it. Any assistance on ideas is welcome, or you can point to be a thread on here. Thanks 😊
  22. Carronade Assembly: A couple of things that I have found in building a ship for the first time. First, if you can recreate anything that is measured without actually measuring each time, you are ahead of the game. And....Second... If you can do the same step multiple times without having to waiting for glue to dry it can really speed up processes. Both are fairly basic, but there is a solid difference between waiting for glue to dry, when comparing it to CA. I have been assembling the Carronades and am at the point where the brackets need to be glued to the barrel lugs, and then glued to the base. In the pictures, you can see where I have multiple brackets in clothespins waiting for the glue to dry. And, a picture of gluing the gun barrel onto the base. In that picture, I took a barrel, and pressed it into the balsa block. This allowed me to place the barrel in the depression on the block at the same height every time. I measured the first port for barrel height at the center of the port, and then copied it onto the block and depression. This allowed for the same position of the gun on each base. This ensures that each barrel is set at the center of the gun port. (Trying to set each gun separately while holding the carronade base in the port, before gluing, takes more hands than I have.)
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