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DaveBaxt

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Everything posted by DaveBaxt

  1. I think its a good idea but could be wrong, but leaving those parts until the first planking is finished . I wish I had done this with my Endeavour. I ended up with a fair bit of damage to the stem/ cut water. I did it your way on my first model and had no issues. Looking great and I really like what you have done so far. I am assuming you won,t be painting over such beautiful wood and I look forward to see what you do next in regards to treating the second planking. Will you also be fitting any tiles? Best regards Dave
  2. Making progress with compensating for the slope of the aft deck. I made two wedges for under the Capstan base on my Proxxon Milling machine and cut a wedge out of the sides of the skylight
  3. Thank you for that and nice to get some input. There is a good bit of work more than the Amati Bounty but up to now it has been fairly similar but think the extra gear on the deck compared to the Amati Bounty is quite a lot and should keep me busy for sometime. I am currently pondering over whether or not to go with keeping everything on the deck vertical or perpendicularto the deck. I think most of the previous blogs have gone with vertical which is different then the drawings so will need to either fit wedges or cut out material to make a slope. Just trying to figure out the best angle. I will probably go with as near to when she is on the stand. If that makes sense. Hope you get your other work done soon. So you can get back to your Bounty.
  4. That is a 'Blast from the past' I didn't know they still made wooden pegs. I thought every thing was made in plastic these days.Second planking is looking great! Dis you lay the first one at the top and work your way down or by the position of the pegs it looks to be the other way round?
  5. Change of tack here. Instead of following the instructions to continue with the hull fittings I have followed the blog by Dashi and started on the deck fittings. First few fittings went rather well Moving onto the Capstan and although the fittings weren't the best I decided to turn down the ends of the 8 mm Dowel and then cut slots to take the vertical Whelps. This has worked reasonably well Next up is the Binnacle assembly and I can't see any other place other than above the area between the ships wheel and the skylight assembly. I have looked at a few blogs and cannot see such a thing as this and see from some photographs that the compass his housed in a small cuboard and wonder if I should try to make something similar. Here is the drawings of what is supplied be the kit. If there are any Endeavour builders out there some help here would be of value. Thanks
  6. Beautiful looking stern. May I ask did the name come with the kit or did you have to make the letters yourself ?
  7. Brilliant Allan you amaze me we how quickly you research stuff. I always seem to take a wrong turn somewhere and end up off track . Even on here I never seem to get what I need when doing searches but thankfully there is always help from someone such as your good self. So thank you once more. Best regards Dave.
  8. Thank you for searching that out for me Allan. As they say here in the uk . There are many ways to skin a cat. No idea where that saying came from and not very suitable these days . I am truely amazed at how many different ways the period ships are put together. I just wish I were 50 years younger when I started this hobby, so as to give me enough time to learn it all. Best regards Dave
  9. After fitting the new position of the Naval hoods and the holes drilled through there is now sufficient room for the anchor ropes. Anchor lines also fitted and painted.
  10. Sorry I did not catch this earlier as it did not flag up for some reason. Thank you again for searching this out for me. Am I correct in thinking this would be a plank on frame model and this wale would be fitted before the planking was fitted? Great close up diagrams are always the best! I think.Best regards Dave
  11. Just realized I think O have made my first major mistake or perhaps not myself. Looking at the two hawse plates just which I have lined up just under the upper wale. Fortunately as yet I have not drilled the holes out yet. I have checked other blogs and they too have had the same problem and have fiited the naval hoods higher up than what is on the drawing.so I will need to do the same and cut away the upper wale. I am kicking my self for not noticing this earlier as a few people have documented the problem with this build. Hopefully I can sort this without any damage to the hull when removing naval. hoods. After removing the naval hoods and a section of wale you can see from the new position of the pins through the hawse holes that there should be enough clearance for the anchor rope to clear the deck.
  12. Great look there Lyle and and interesting formula. Keep up the excelent work and I look forward to your progress. Well done! perhaps one day I will try a bit more of a weathered look. I definately like yours.
  13. Fitted Rudder pintles and bushes which I found very fiddly.Then I fitted the rudder straps first then temporarily secured the rudder with tape whilst gluing and pinning the longer rudder staps to the hull. Glued Quarter badges using CA glue after paining behind the windows mat black .Started focusing on the anchor linings part no 122 which did not fit. I therefore decided to make new ones with 5mm x 1.5mm Lime strips as can be seen below using double sided tape and extending the strips to enlarge the anchor linings and then shaping them. It will also be necessary to bend the 1.5 mm strips to suit the shape of the hull. Hope this works out ok.
  14. Thank you to every one with some very good answers . I am still in two minds with this and will make an attempt at making some letters in the hope they would be good enough to mount on the stern counter /transom. Best regards Dave
  15. I have noticed that quite a few models in the 1700 have their name across the Transom and wonder if this is accurate for this period or is it just something which modelers like to do . I suppose this gives instant recognition but then again so would mounting a plaque somewhere on the stand or on the glass case itself. What are peoples views on this and what do people prefer. Best regards Dave
  16. Started adding some decoration to the stern quarter and stern facia and adding the larger of the 3 hinges to the gun port lids which were previously fitted to the hull. There are still a number of lids to fit to the hull ( In the closed position) but I found it difficult to accurately position these on the hull ( Its an age related thing) so will probably glue these in position away from the model which I hope I will find easier. The metal decorations were glued using appoxy resin but the hinges were glued on using CA. I almost forgot. I removed the stand as the ship was not sitting level athwartships so decided to build another slipway /drydock which keeps the ship level. This is mainly for when I begin to fit the channels in the hope I can keep these in line with the water level rather than 90 degs to the hull. I am not 100% sure if this is correct but heard it mentioned somewhere.I think it will help with other parts of the build.
  17. Thank you Derek for explaining that to me and I think for my next model I will keep a few wider planks in stock . What are we looking at .Double the width? Cheers Dave
  18. I didn't know dropped planks were a mistake Ha ha. I thought that was part of the normal process. However I didn't drop any on the Endeavour which was more good luck than anything. However there were a few steallers at the stern if that counts as mistakes. Sorry to take your blog off track.Thanks for the ebay link. Best regards Dave
  19. That is some fantastic planking there Derek and each plank must sit exactly right, especially at the ends of each plank to lie flat with the next one.I always find that very difficult and therefore fit the planks in one complete length. In the past I have used the planking fan but instead of strips have just used a vernier caliper but I am now on the look out for a pair of dividers. I only seem to see them in with complete drawing kits. Hopefully some time in the future I will be able to plank half as good as yourself. Keep up great work and I look forward to watching this build. Best regards Dave
  20. Tried the above method for blackening and for some reason it didnot work so well. I attempted to have another go but it was in the blackening solution much longer that expected. Yet once again after polishing there was on or two areas of brass showing through,so decided to wire brush the parts and then acetone before pickling and this time after only a few seconds in the blackening solution it was evedent the process worked better. After polishing on this occation it was 100% imrovement.
  21. I think you have the idea ,however follow the curve of the deck with the blocks at the top and continue to follow the line using a spare plank. I f I were to do it again I think I would either fit blocks just forward of when the planks first start to bend or fit another bulkhead I always find when there is a hollow in the planks in this area and therefore I ended up having to use some filler,I don,t think the 1.5 mm x 6 mm walnut planks helped. I ended up soaking them overnight to make sure they would bend ok. I tried to follow Chucks method of edge bending the planks which also helped and tapered each plank. You can find Chucks method here on this forum.Hope this helps .Best regards Dave
  22. I know the feeling . I have just lost one of the brass etchings and nearly got to the stage of dismantling the shed to find it, Fortunately Caldercraft were kind enough to send me another. I will have to be careful next time and adopt a better system when blackening. Just when I thought I had it sorted with pickling the brass before blackening. Oh well! back to the drawing board as they say.
  23. Started preparing the various cast metal parts with cleaning then white primer using spray can then acrylic yellow orce and white for the brass windows . I have also blackened the brackets for the rudder with the help of the following thread which produced much better results than previous attempts at blackening.
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