jdbondy
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EricWilliamMarshall reacted to a post in a topic:
Pride of Baltimore II by Karleop - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
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archjofo reacted to a post in a topic:
Centerboard Schooner C. Chase 1846 by Maurys - Scale 1:48 - FINISHED
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Centerboard Schooner C. Chase 1846 by Maurys - Scale 1:48 - FINISHED
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Very nice, Maury! I hope to come over from Dallas some time to take a look. -
Thanks Vaddoc, I am glad I bit the bullet and paid for the full version of Rhino. Huge capabilities that I have barely tapped into. I am picturing that when you describe extending the frames, you are essentially describing a Hahn-style method, with all frames upside-down on a flat surface. I would then come along later and cut the extended portions of the frames down to the level of the sheer. Is that correct? My surface is curved, following the sheer at the level where the frames and bulwark stanchions meet the undersurface of the rail. I can see how the more traditional Hahn meth
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G.L. reacted to a post in a topic:
Schooner Mary Day by jdbondy - 1:64 scale (3/16" to 1 foot)
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vaddoc reacted to a post in a topic:
Schooner Mary Day by jdbondy - 1:64 scale (3/16" to 1 foot)
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Spent today being a good boy and cleaning the workbench, putting everything away. As the captain would say, "Clear the decks for action!"
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Thanks, Dave. Cutting the rabbet was made so much easier thanks to the microscope. Right now my challenge is finishing the shape of the transom, where the hull planks will intersect with the transom planks, as well as where the hull planks will flow into the sternpost. Fortunately I will be in Maine in March, and I will hopefully be able to look at this area directly. The challenge there is that the schooner is docked bow-to, so I would need to row around the boat to get access to the transom!
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Good idea, Druxey. The tape didn't last very long on there anyway.
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In a previous post I went over creation of a transom filler block, created by obtaining measurements off my half model of the Mary Day hanging on the wall of the shop. In order to put that filler block on the work surface, I had to extend the baseboard. In its current form, the filler block rests against the aft surface of frame #50, shown here inside of the sternpost. This wood strip was attached and the surface was planed flat with a block plane. Frame 51 is shown in place here, just aft of the stern post. Next step is to cut the transom fill
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Fortunately for us, the COVID infection itself was relatively mild! But an especially scary prospect given that every day I look at chest X-rays of people whose lungs are filled with infiltrates from COVID pneumonia.
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It has been since August that I posted on any model work. I have indeed been distracted by projects related to the new sailboat, but other things were going on, like COVID 19 working its way through our household in December! But work on the model has been occurring, relating to planking prep and construction of the transom. The transom work is particularly interesting and challenging. I hope to do a couple of posts in relatively rapid succession to bring things up to speed. This is an example of how lucky I am when it comes to the documentation of my subject. Cap’n Ba
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Swallow 1779 by tlevine
jdbondy replied to tlevine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
You could make a little bucking iron to hold on the outboard surface of the rivet, then use a tiny hammer to peen over the inboard end of the rivet... -
Swallow 1779 by tlevine
jdbondy replied to tlevine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
My wife often refers to our ship-building hobby as a beautiful madness. Speaking of madness, Toni, I hope you aren't going to go to the trouble of installing roves on the inboard (invisible) surface of the hull! -
I need to look up Wes Marden's booklet. The case that was made for my Pride of Baltimore 2 took altogether too long for the parts to be manufactured by an outside party. Then the glazier I hired to assemble it did a horrible job. My neighbor and I imagine that we could have done a far better and faster job.
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Congratulations! Now it's time for a cleaning of the shop, followed by opening up the next project... I hope the pandemic resurgence isn't too bad in your area!
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Shameless plug for Rockler Woodworking, I see! I am lucky to have one about 3 miles from my house. What an impressive jig! Gonna spend some time looking at that one, because the more time spent, the more I think I can learn from it...
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I think I see what you are pointing out, so I have taken another photo now that I have begun carving out the rabbet. I haven't extended the rabbet into the sternpost yet. In my previous picture, the keel timber on my model may have appeared deceptively small. The top of the keel timber is indicated on my model and on the plan by the red arrows. My photo doesn't show the details of the keel further forward on the plans or on the model, so I can see how it's easy to lose track of what is where. I got a response back from Skipper Barry King about the position of the
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My colleagues, have a look at this photo and give me your opinion. The portion of the plan showing the sternpost, rudder, and deadwood are presented, and my keel assembly is lying on top of it. I am beginning to work out the rabbet (although this picture does not show the work I have done to this end). The question I have is where the rabbet ends on the sternpost. I think that the dotted line traveling nearly vertically along the sternpost represents the end of the rabbet and the end of the counter planking. Right? Is there any reason to suspect that the planking should instead end where the s
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