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About jdbondy

  • Birthday 08/30/1968

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    Dallas, TX

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  1. Those of you who have the Calendar of Wooden Boats by Benjamin Mendlowitz may have noticed that June 2020's cover girl is...the Mary Day!
  2. Hey Maury, I am glad I have happened across your build. It's my own fault for not finding it sooner! Will review your progress so far. You may remember that we are virtual neighbors: I am over in north Dallas.
  3. Very lovely but I would never ask someone to make such a sacrifice! Aber vielen dank! JD
  4. In my previous post, I was musing about future directions for the model. In particular, wondering about how faithful to be to the actual structure of the schooner. If I were to just plank over the frames (bulkheads, really), then I have already gone above and beyond in creating all these bulkheads. But to take full advantage of the work I have done so far means leaving at least part of the hull unplanked, in order to show off the framing pattern. I am leaning toward leaving part of one side unplanked, and in that area making sure that the visible frames are ones made of boxwood, rather than the 3/32” Baltic birch ply that I started using more frequently. Fortunately, nearly all the frames forward of the greatest beam are boxwood frames, so it is reasonable to think of just leaving a portion of bow planking off on one side of the boat. I am going to proceed as if that is the plan. In the picture above, it’s possible to distinguish the boxwood frames from the plywood frames. Plywood frames are visible in the area of maximal beam, and there are more of them headed off to the stern. In between the frames, I have created basswood inserts that are smaller than each of the frames. I envision having these in place for the fairing process, as I get the shape and bevel of the outer surface of all the frames worked out. I am going to rewind a bit, to the process of fitting each frame to the keel and baseboard. The first frames to cut out and size up were the frames at the station lines. Four intermediate frames are found between each of the station frames; those will come later. It took some time to figure out a good method for cutting the keel notch to the appropriate width and depth, with clean corners so that each frame would articulate properly with the keel. The best method I have come up with is using an X-acto knife to first cut out an appropriate width from the paper template glued to the frame (not shown in this particular case), and while doing so, make a tiny cut in the edge of the frame in the area where the notch is supposed to be. Then I extended that cut carefully across the width of the frame, then gradually cut into the frame vertically at the edge of the notch-to-be. Then I used the X-acto knife to work into each corner, and then trim out the floor of the notch between the corners to a level surface. I initially did not realize how crucial a process this would be. It was only when I started to consider how the planking would have to come down the surface of the frame and fay smoothly into a rabbet that I realized that I had to make the depth of that notch of just the right depth so the surface of the frame flowed into the rabbet. Only after that was done could I consider trimming each frame/bulkhead at its upper surface, in the area of the bulwarks and caprail, so that each frame would fit into the space allowed between my baseboard and the keel on top of it. At this point, the keel does not have a rabbet cut into it, but the rabbet line has been transferred to the keel. I was able to use a sample piece of wood of appropriate thickness (3/64”) to make sure that I had the depth of the notch about right. Each of the frames here have had a notch cut into them, and in the case of the forward-most and aft-most station frames, notches have been cut in the stem assembly and deadwood, respectively, to receive the frames. You can faintly see the rabbet line penciled in on the stem and keel in this picture. The deadwood hasn’t been fully built up onto the keel yet. Since I had already done some work pre-beveling the first seven frames, I went ahead and worked on cutting out notches in the keel to receive frames 1 through 6. As you can tell, it was a challenge getting the spacing of the notches exactly right. The third notch is too far forward; I fixed this by extending the notch further into the keel and making sure the extension was more properly spaced. In addition, I glued shims to the baseboard to receive the uppermost surfaces of the frames. Due to the slant of the baseboard in this area (mimicking the upward slope of the caprail), the uppermost surface of each frame had to be beveled accordingly. Frames 1,2,3, and 7 in place. Cutting the depth of the notch in each frame here was crucial in order to make sure the bottom edge of each frame was spaced far enough from the rabbet line to allow for the cutting of the rabbet later on. Frames 1-7 in place. I will probably need a filler block forward of frame 1. This brings us to July of last year. At this point, the model went on hiatus, and that is entirely the fault of my carving teacher and a mutual friend, who made me aware of Renaissance prayer beads made of boxwood, depicting ornate scenes from the Bible, such as seen below: Which got me to thinking. My wife is a French teacher, and every year she and her students read The Little Prince by St. Exupery. An idea of a Christmas gift formed in my mind, and the next half year was spent constructing a (much simpler) boxwood sphere meant to represent one of the planets from the story, with (much simpler) scenes from the story on the inside of the bead. The hinge hadn’t been installed yet at the time of this picture. The sphere is about the size of a golf ball. I am happy to report that the gift was well received, and I was able to move on and get back to model ship building! Except, now the little planet needs a stand to rest on…OK, maybe I will work on carving a stand when I take breaks from model ship building. At the time of the next post, we will pretty much be up to real-time status.
  5. Did I miss something? You painted all those friezes since your last post? Wow!
  6. Still looking for someone who can tell me about how molded dimensions of individual frames were calculated...
  7. Been doing pretty well with quartersawing these holly logs. Do I need to go out of my way to remove or avoid the pith, or is the pith something that will become obvious once the wood has dried? I am told that any residual sapwood on the outside surface of the slabs will just flake away, so I am not worried about that part.
  8. What kind of paint are you using, and primer if applicable? I agree, painting is one of my least favorite parts of model building!
  9. Edward, when you notice that a neighbor has cut down their Buxus sepervirens, please let me know and I will come across the pond to get some!!
  10. Oh, and I almost forgot: check out my new toy! A Swiss drawknife!
  11. I got to the bandsaw tonight with a 12 inch log of about 4-5" diameter, and a smaller one about 2-3". The smaller one already has a big check in it: But I cut it up to get flitches of about 3/8" thickness. How's this for a first attempt at quartersawing: These pieces are 1/2" to 3/4" in thickness. I took what the bandsaw would give me. My technique needs work; the pieces are of variable thickness due to difficulty controlling the log against the fence of the bandsaw. I forgot to finish cutting one of the corner pieces on the right. My kiln! AKA a shelf in the garage. I am gonna need A LOT more space. There is a lot more wood to come, including pieces of 24" length.
  12. Keith, I love the gilded cage that is my workshop! OK, we have to talk. The moment I received the builders plans for the Mary Day, I had envisioned building a model that was a true reflection of the way in which the Mary Day was constructed. After all, I have all this information. May as well make the most of it. So to do that, I would have to accurately craft a keel to serve as a backbone. I would then need to create 51 sets of frames, whose shapes are determined by a 3D reconstruction of the model so as to obtain frame shapes that lie between the eleven stations that are detailed in the lines drawing. These 51 frames would of course need to be accurate in their outer shape, but then also they would need to be accurate in terms of their width (molded dimension) as they travel from the keel up toward the sheer and the caprail. They would also require accurate cutting of a notch where they articulate with the keel, so that their shape flows accurately into a rabbet carved into the keel. Since each of these frames would then be quite fine in dimension, they would have to be composed of strong and stiff material, and be dimensionally stable. (There must be some traditional way of determining what the molded dimension of a given frame should be, but I haven’t yet found anyplace where that is described. If you know what it is, please let me know!) But…do I intend to fully plank the model? Why go through all that work if it is just going to be covered up? If I do plan to fully plank the model, shouldn’t I just stick with the 11 stations, and forget about creating all 51 frames? Is there a middle ground, where I do use all 51 frame stations, but don’t worry about milling each frame to its true molded dimensions? In fact, I have already done a lot of the work toward creating 51 frames. So I have not yet crossed any Rubicons that would keep me from moving forward with a traditional build. (Except that some of the frames I recently cut out were made from 3/32” Baltic birch plywood, instead of the laminated boxwood that I used prior to learning about Baltic birch ply.) Fortunately, at this particular point, there is still a lot of work I can do prior to having to make the decision on how accurate a construction to use, and on whether to, say, plank only one side of the model. I still have to create a few more frames. I have to mark all the frames up for the waterline, sheerline, and planking bands. I still haven’t finished carving the rabbet, and I need to create filler blocks for the bow and stern after finishing the rabbet. Then the outer surfaces of the frames would need to be faired to their final shape before I would consider removing any material from the inside of the frames. To aid in the fairing process, the spaces between the frames on the baseboard are filled with 3/16” thickness pieces of basswood, to stabilize the whole structure while sanding the outer surface of the frames with what amounts to a longboard, a 4” piece of wood with 100 grit (or so) sandpaper. So I guess I am putting this post out there in order to see what opinions people have. Feel free to let me know what you think!
  13. I found even nicer pieces of holly on my second visit to the brushpile, including logs of 5-6" diameter with extensive straight segments and no branching. Some are as long as 24"! And there is even more there if I want it; but I am having to restrain myself! I took a couple of pieces with painted ends, and started work on de-barking them. For this I was using my best available tool, a sub-optimal 3/4" width chisel. Now I am in the market for a draw-knife! Hopefully I will be able to get to the bandsaw later this week.
  14. Great feedback. OK, my plan is to cut this recently harvested wood into logs of reasonable lengths, then put exterior latex on the ends. I will get it to my neighbor's bandsaw as soon as I can for "slabbing", as you call it Druxey. For an individual log, I will probably split it right down the middle first, then slice what is left in such a way as to exclude the pith. Then I have to find a place to sticker all this wood! For the older piece I showed you, that will go to the back burner since it is already dried over many years. As you can see, it already has long splits in it. And much of the bark is still on.
  15. Coincidentally, I just scavenged some holly from a neighbor that is freshly cut down. These pieces have a greatest diameter of 3.5" and smallest diameter of 2". I tried to cut it so as to exclude major branch points. These segments are about 12" in length. Jaager, I guess I should paint the ends and peel the bark when possible. But are you recommending that I go ahead and rip it into sheets prior to letting it dry? For the fun of it, I labeled the straightest piece with the date and with its weight. I also have this older and fully seasoned complex piece of holly that is as great as 8" at its base. Since I now have momentum, I will probably start on cutting it up. When using holly for ship modeling, is it necessary to worry about excluding the pith at the center of the log, or is all of the wood fair game? Edward, sorry for hijacking your post but it seemed like very good timing to add to your post and not start a new one.

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