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About jdbondy

  • Birthday 08/30/1968

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    Dallas, TX

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  1. Shameless plug for Rockler Woodworking, I see! I am lucky to have one about 3 miles from my house. What an impressive jig! Gonna spend some time looking at that one, because the more time spent, the more I think I can learn from it...
  2. I think I see what you are pointing out, so I have taken another photo now that I have begun carving out the rabbet. I haven't extended the rabbet into the sternpost yet. In my previous picture, the keel timber on my model may have appeared deceptively small. The top of the keel timber is indicated on my model and on the plan by the red arrows. My photo doesn't show the details of the keel further forward on the plans or on the model, so I can see how it's easy to lose track of what is where. I got a response back from Skipper Barry King about the position of the
  3. My colleagues, have a look at this photo and give me your opinion. The portion of the plan showing the sternpost, rudder, and deadwood are presented, and my keel assembly is lying on top of it. I am beginning to work out the rabbet (although this picture does not show the work I have done to this end). The question I have is where the rabbet ends on the sternpost. I think that the dotted line traveling nearly vertically along the sternpost represents the end of the rabbet and the end of the counter planking. Right? Is there any reason to suspect that the planking should instead end where the s
  4. She is a Nat Herreshoff-designed "Coquina". Fans of Wooden Boat magazine may remember a recent issue that included an article about the DN Hylan boatshop on the coast of Maine, who offer a kit for the Coquina, or you can commission them to build one for you. JD
  5. I have a confession to make. Last week I was back in Maine, taking more measurements from the Mary Day while she is cooped up in Camden, waiting out this tourist season that has been cancelled due to COVID-19. Down the road from Camden, in Rockland, is the Apprenticeshop, which is a school for apprenticing individuals into the traditional skills of boatbuilding. (apprenticeshop.org) They had this boat for sale...and I bought it! As if I needed a distraction from my model building efforts! She will make the journey from Maine to Texas next week, and hopefully will be he
  6. In my last post, I showed how I had to cut frame #50 to accommodate the stern post. Unfortunately, that wasn’t the last frame. Frame 51 also exists, but it doesn’t articulate with the keel, deadwood, or sternpost. Rather, it will articulate with the framing for the transom, presumably fitting into what might be called a horn timber although I don’t think that’s quite the right term for this case. Feel free to correct my terminology. In the picture above, you can see how the bulkhead that will become frame 51 is unable to sit on its line indicated on the baseboard. The su
  7. I feel reassured by all the posts indicating people having trouble with their models' transoms/sterns...
  8. I am looking ahead to planking and thinking about how to hold a freshly glued plank against the frames. Just in case I go ahead and turn these bulwarks into frames, I was envisioning some clamps along the lines of what Ed Tosti makes in his Naiad Frigate series. What follows is what I have ended up with, which will probably be modified further once I actually reach the point of planking. Not being able to consistently find brass screws of the size I wanted, nor being at all able to find knurled nuts, I went online and found this supplier of brass screws wi
  9. Mark, even though I have not bought a set of the Russian chisels, I would be interested in seeing his honing instructions. Can you PM me as well? Thanks.
  10. Fairing of the bow and the midships frames has gone more smoothly (ha, get it?) than I anticipated. I would like to think that I could carry on through the stern and get through it all, but it has been pointed out to me that fairing frames 1-49 without frames 50 and 51 as well as some kind of transom filler could result in a distorted stern. So I need to do something to get those two last frames in place, or at least something that approximates them. At this time, I don’t plan on permanently installing a transom filler block. I want to try to emulate the actual structure of the boat.
  11. We are at the point of fairing the shape of the hull. This picture shows the sanding block I am using, which has 100 grit adhesive backed sandpaper on its face-down surface. The general approach was to sand an area such as the starboard bow frames to knock off the hard corners of the frames, then see which frames really stood proud from the rest and bring them into alignment. Then find the frames that are sitting low to their neighbors and glue in shims. The shims I used were 1/64” thickness strips of basswood, which sanded down very easily once applied. The happy end result was that the fairi
  12. As of early July, this is about where things stood. All frames have been adjusted in height to bring the waterline into alignment. As a bonus, this photo shows four trial frames I didn’t use, but kept around. They have been cut to the molded dimensions suggested by Jaager in a previous post. And they sure look fragile. Fortunately they are sturdy for their size; some are made out of Baltic birch plywood, others are made of the laminates of boxwood I put a lot of effort into creating. At this time, I find myself very tempted to go ahead and cut all the frames to their true-to-life dimensions, b
  13. Druxey, exactly right. I am now looking at how to build the stern framing on my project. All I can do is look at one piece of wood in the plans and say "build that", then put it in place, and figure out where to go from there... Meddo, looks good!
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