jdbondy

Time to tighten up the various forestays, of which there are five (!). There are two proper forestays, which terminate at the end of the bowsprit. The jib stay, fore topmast stay, and the fore topgallant stay terminate at the very tip of the jibboom. This end of the fore topgallant stay hangs down from the area of the dolphin striker, through which it has to pass before it can be rigged with its thimble. The thimble is then rigged with lines that are secured at eyebolts on each side of the bow (ie, no deadeyes), suggesting that it is not easily adjustable. All of the other fore stays are rigged to deadeyes, allowing for easier adjustment by the crew. The fore topgallant stay can be faintly seen hanging down from the dolphin striker. The jib stay and the fore topmast stay run alongside the dolphin striker. Also visible are the sheets associated with the jib, which run back toward the bow of the ship. The thimble for the fore topgallant stay has been seized, and its control line is threaded through it. The forestay and its thimble are blurry against the background in this photo. The fore topgallant stay has been put under tension, with the control lines running back toward their respective eyebolts. These are the deadeyes for the forestays, port and starboard. This series of pictures shows the deadeyes getting threaded and then secured, with the lanyard tied off with fly-tying thread. Then it’s over to the starboard side, where the corresponding deadeyes are threaded and tightened up. This lanyard is being held under tension in self-closing tweezers that are left hanging under gravity while the slack in the line is taken up and the lanyard is tightened. I had to be careful to make the forestay deadeyes spaced by about the same amount on the port and starboard sides. A detail added at this point was the additional footropes just aft of the bowsprit netting, on either side of the bowsprit. As mentioned before, the control lines for the headsails run back toward the bow, where they are tied off at the fore pinrails. These lines were laid out, then some disposable black thread was used to roughly secure them in the desired locations. They were then wetted with dilute glue to keep them in place, and to keep them from standing up against gravity. You can see some of the temporary threads securing the headsail sheets. Blocks for the jib halyard then were installed at the trestletrees of the foremast. I found that for rigging blocks, I liked using the Syren line. But when it came to the running and standing rigging itself, I preferred the appearance of Morope. (Sorry, Chuck…) This loop has been tied off with nylon fly-tying line. Some disposable black thread holds things together while the block is secured in place with more fly-tying line. These two particular blocks (one on each side) are rigged with a short pendant, so this took quite a few wraps of the fly-tying line. Now we are reaching the point where I have to secure the foresail gaff. But at what angle? Here is my protractor being used to estimate the angle of the gaff from the plans. And so the peak and throat halyards were tightened, and the gaff’s vang lines were installed so as to duplicate that angle. The vang lines are currently hanging free from the end of the gaff. We haven’t reached the point of snugging everything up at the pinrail yet, but it was at this point that I realized how excessively I had waxed some of the lines. The flakes of wax required careful cleanup, and from this point on, I didn’t wax any more of the running rigging. From left to right, the lines that have been belayed are the jib sheet, jib halyard, staysail sheet, lower yard lift, lower yard truss, foresail peak halyard, and foresail throat halyard. It may not look like it, but the foremast installation is essentially complete. Final tightening of the associated lines would wait until the mainmast installation started, because some of these mainmast components would need to be in place in order to allow final adjusting of the foremast rigging. So next up, moving on to the main mast!

No, using Chrome. I am not too worried about the problem; it just seems to come up every once in awhile. Usually I just retake the picture, downsize it again, and it will work fine.

Yeah Mark, I checked that, and the picture has been reduced to appropriate pixel dimensions. But it still won't load. This seems to happen to me occasionally with a random picture. Haven't made any sense of it yet.

Hey, it was she who evicted us from our backyard for the past four weeks. We couldn't go out there without her dive bombing us!

Today was the last day for Mama Robin to feed her chicks outside our window. They hatched 2 weeks ago, and today all 3 chicks fled the nest.

Dave, Mark, Vossiewulf, thanks for the feedback. Today I made a quantum leap in my table saw technique. I have installed the splitter and created a push stick. Each enables a much smoother pass of the wood through the blade. Unfortunately, my picture of the stock boxwood and the sheets I created is failing to upload. However, I experienced no binding of the blade when I was able to push the wood at a very consistent speed through the blade. I used each technique, one in which the sheet was created from the wood between the blade and the fence, and one in which the block of wood was pushed between the blade and the fence, with the sheet falling away to the left of the blade. Each worked equally well. I am finding the key is the smooth passage of the wood through the blade, at a speed that "lets the tool do the work". (Where have I heard that?) To which probably a lot of you will say, "Uh, yeah, just now figuring that out??" But I feel proud of having learned the lesson nonetheless. Sure wish my photo would upload...I get an error dialog box, and all it says is "-200".

Regarding my secondary issue described above where the motor slows down and the width of the cut increases, I have made a zero clearance plate with splitter out of cherry wood. The problem has improved but is still present, so I plan on adding a little bit of width to the splitter and hopefully that will resolve things.

Bob, I owe you a big thank-you. Your picture of the Keuffel and Esser instruments jogged a memory, and I checked with my mother, a pack rat who moved to the US with her family in the early 1950s. She was a medical illustrator and her brother had done some drafting work. She may be a pack rat, but she knows just where to go find it when I ask about something. A phone call produced this: The brand on the case is Staedtler, made in Germany. She also has this: The brand name on the case for this one is Riefler Nesselwang. She estimates this one may be substantially older than the first set, as it was used by her grandfather. Each set demonstrates corrosion. Any suggestions on who to start checking with on getting them cleaned up? My thought goes to my local Asel Art Supply store to see if they have suggestions. So glad I saw your post!

I'm not using the slitting saw blade, I am using the heavier duty blade that I presume is the carbide blade.

I started perusing this thread because I have been looking for a tutorial on how to properly use ships curves to join points smoothly. In the past when I tried using them, I ended up with some very un-smooth curves that were composed of several curves of different radii. Any suggestions?

Follow up question for you all: When I try to part off a sheet, whether with one pass or two, no matter how slowly I push the board through the blade, there are moments when I can hear the resistance building and the kerf of the cut widens by a small amount. Then the resistance releases, the board pushes more easily, and the cut returns to the narrower width. Is the blade getting clogged by sawdust within the cut? Why does the cut widen? When I do the cut in two passes, the depth of cut is 3/8". I have tried doing some cuts with one pass, meaning I am cutting a thickness of 3/4". I am beginning to think I am asking too much of the tool.

I am parting off some 1/16" thickness sheets from some boxwood stock that is 1/2" in thickness using the Byrnes table saw. Is it frowned upon to part off the sheet using two passes, one on each side of the sheet? It seems to be a safer way to do the cutting since the saw blade can be left at a height of just over 1/4" and it remains covered by the wood stock while making the cuts. Thanks for any guidance!

My wife points out that my frame press is way more expensive than the one from Harbor Freight...

Here's my next-generation framing press: It is made of all those books I haven't looked at since medical school and residency! Beneath them, the frame is compressed between two 1/8" sheets.

For better or for worse, I have solved my warped frame problem. I created one example frame to test the idea of using 3 layers of 1/32" boxwood. Mark, the 3 layers were composed in the same way as you assembled the patterns for your frames: While still wet, these were put between pieces of 1/4" basswood sheets, which were then clamped: A very flat frame was the end product: A close-up shows the 3 layers laminated together: So like I said, for better or for worse, looks like I have a solution. And this example is really strong. Do I really want to pursue this route? I don't know... Thanks for all the guidance!