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Ron B

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Everything posted by Ron B

  1. I think that is what I will do. I will cut to shape whenever possible , but sometimes a little sanding is necessary...at least I'm expecting it will be. Thanks, everyone for your feedback Ron
  2. Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. I have seen these and need 1/8 shank, and always try to avoid China...I buy Canada 1st ( rare), US 2nd (mostly), and then offshore....never used Alibaba Ron
  3. Has anyone made a 2 or 3"diameter home made disc in order to fashion a decent size sander for shaping pieces.
  4. I switched to Excel and like the Xacto the knurled collars tend to loosen so I'm going to use some plumber's silicone tape ( super thin to stop plumbing joints from leaking) figuring that will stop the threads from slipping. I bought an Xacto mitre box...way too wide slots. Not sure if I should buy a better brand or just use harwoodd jig. My Xacto saw dulled very quickly....anyone use Excel and get longer life , or opt for Tamiya or Zona?
  5. My granddaughter still plays with hers...but we have a firm and true carcass now. Haven't got to bulkheads ( mistakenly referred to as bulwarks earlier) being trimmed or built up yet. Opted to install horn timbers. Had to do some notching as my cube strengtheners were in the way. Glad I built Doc's jig....even though I could feel the weakness of the keel at the rabbet, a couple of healthy sized clamps took care of that, and I was able to lay the ship on its side and notch away to install the horn beam. The after effect was amazing once both in place....a very firm keel
  6. Well, I saw somewhere that instead of using wood strips and pins to keep all the keel/bulwarks true to use cubic blocks or LEGO. Kids are married so no LEGO...opted for cubic hardwood blocks...worked like a dream...keel is straight as as a pin, and bulwarks not only at 90 degrees, but solid as all get out...nothing even hints at moving or bending...started out a bit rough but better as I proceeded....all hidden anyway once planking starts. Also got the great beam done. I read, reread, watched videos, read some more ...sweating the details. No real detail anywhere it se
  7. Egads man, That's some skill you're learning/demonstrating ....those gears look "boss" (I think that's a pun) I agree about the blacking nice shiny brass and painting wood where maybe not necessary....your wood skills are very detailed so the pieces look refined not just cobbled together. I know where of you speak about working in garage...back when I lived in Montreal used to do automobile rebuilds in a sub zero weather...cut a hole in roof and installed drip kerosene heater...that almost got me divorced, but it at least ensured the Snap-On tools didn't sti
  8. 1. dental picks aces for applying glue. 2. In Montreal where I grew up we also called them clothes pins 3. We also made guns using clothes pins and broken hockey sticks....weird but true. 4. love the spirit of all of you...inventiveness and glee
  9. Not my idea but one I am using to great success...using dental picks (toothpick shaped plastic with a little tuft of "hair"on one end..very cheap....use once and toss...as they have a small head they are very easy to position in really tight spots. I mentioned in my own log that Japanese saws are Xacto saws on steroids...they are very fine toothed but cut through hard woods much faster. I also have cut manicurist's files into pointed wedges....find them handy to sand narrow spaces like when cutting/shaping the rabbet on keel. Nothing terribly original but t
  10. Hi John, Looking at your log and it's Feb2021....I had previous experience from y teen years with razor saws, but recently purchased a Japanese saw ( slightly bigger and longer) that rips through basswood and plywood like the proverbial hot knife through butter...especially good for jig making as I am in a condo and have no real shop or power tools. You have/had a lot of interesting construction techniques. Ron
  11. So I drew the rabbet and beard lines by caliper and ruler....took a while but ended up true to the plans. Just didn't feel right to cut and trace,but that's just me. When it came time to cut I used a tip from CPDDET and put some green painters tape on tip of knife blade leaving just 1/16" exposed, so wouldn't accidentally cut the rabbet too deep....worked a charm. Then I put a 1/4" chisel blade in knife and instead of going N/S or E/W I gently shaved on a 45° and avoided the blade digging in and gouging the surface of the keel. Took the thinnest of savings and everything stayed
  12. Thanks for the tips on painting. Wow, that is one cool looking piece of machine and I'm sure you'll be turning out some nice parts. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Ron
  13. I opted not to do the cut and paste of the plans to trace the bearding./rabbet lines....did it all with draughtman's calipers , assorted French curves, and rulers....turned out well. Hopefully tomorrow cut the rabbets. The metal pin I inserted down the throat of that dangerous narrows by the stern post turned the trick too. did some more upgrading to my mobile shop...need to post some pics,maybe tomorrow.
  14. good to hear. Here's a weird question, When I see close up pics of the tiny wood pieces they're hairy, as in small wood fibers have been raised up and even after sanding the paint never lays flat. I'm thinking of running a wide soft flame over them to burn them off...I'll do a test and let you know.
  15. Boy those metal castings are a sorry looking lot. Since I have no recourse I am going to have get creative in retouching them, filing, maybe use some plastic metal filler. Mine are just as bad. I also contacted MSW with a list of missing wood strips and blocks...all the metal was there....I hear they're quite responsive and customer oriented when it comes to this type of thing.
  16. I keep reading where many have accidentally broken the tail off the stern keel of their Bluenose model where it really gets narrow. So I found my box of bits, took a 1/16 and lo and behold the collet in my new dremel drill press is too large....so stuck it in my cordless drill and said some prayers, sacrificed a goat, clamped it between my knees , and .....it worked!!  I took a small brad, cut  the head off, and slid it into the hole with just enough resistance that I had to tap it in  with a tiny little hammer I bought. Figure it will impart enough strength if I accidentally catch it on something, hit  it, etc.



  17. Hey Dave Ron here...I have lost your email address and wondered if you could em me as I'd like to go offline to ask some questions that go way back to the keel assembly?
  18. I did a dry fit of the keel and bulwarks tonight.....sooty little devils. Wiped everything down with old rag and lightly touched with sanding stick. Bulwark A took a lot of sanding to get it to sit. B to D moderate, but the rest went smoothly. Noticed a small out of alignment with the bottom 1 of the keel pieces...about 1/32 longer than its mate, so I'll check against the plans and fix. Couple of bulwarks actually sit down a little below top of keel so will need to adjust those. Overall , no big surprises. Looking at that narrow ar
  19. Great sandpaper block tip. Keep on ...patience seems to be the common byword through all the blogs. I'm right behind you as I just started on the keel last night....fun times Ron
  20. Hey Dave Did you get the Sherline? With no recent posts thought maybe you're hunkered down practicing. Ron
  21. Har har...I keep reading how e gets in the way....you'd think after 70+ years on this planet I'd remember that...anyway, the mobile shipyard with removable jig is done....on to building....think I found a local print house that will be able to copy the plans so that i cut them up as many of you have recommended. and....even tho' Im a Canuck....go Packers!!
  22. The mobile shipyard...not pretty but functional...just some shelving fornts and a lid restaint to be added/
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