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GGibson

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About GGibson

  • Birthday 06/15/1955

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kansas City Metro Area, USA
  • Interests
    Enjoying Retirement / Spoiling Grandchildren / Model Ship Hobbying / Backyard BBQ Guru

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  1. Others with more experience or knowledge may be able to better respond to this, but my suggestion would be, since everyone should have their user name as a part of the build log title, on the HOME page, to put the user/profile name in the search box and, on the next screen's "Search the Community" page, click the "xxx in content titles only" link just below the "Didn't find what you were looking for?" question. Maybe that will isolate the list to just that profile name's build logs... Good luck!
  2. Alright! Beginning the work on the various booms and gaffs that will get attached to either of the two masts. Cut out the laser pieces for the three (3) sets of jaws and sanded to remove the char. Cut 1/8" and 1/4" dowels to size per the plans for all of the gaffs and booms, and sanded each one to the appropriate tapers and (as I had seen others do in their build logs) labeled them to keep organized. MAIN BOOM - Made slight mill cuts on the port and starboard sides where the jaws are to be mounted. Make sure to use the correct-sized jaws for this main boom! There are differences in the shapes/sizes/lengths of each set of jaws! Match with the plans. Using the Proxxon drill press, I initially drilled #65 holes in the jaw sides in the appropriate locations, matching both jaw sides. Also, lined up the two holes for the little clapper piece to sit in between the jaws. Then, after gluing to the boom/dowel, I hand-drilled a bit more for each hole to adequately accept 0.81mm brass rods for the fake bolts. Drilled small holes at the tips for the parrel beads that will eventually be added once this is actually rigged to the main mast. Drilled #52 holes in the top of each jaw for the belaying pins and another #65 hole for the eye bolt. All in all, looking good. A great start to this main boom construction. LAZY JACK LINES - Not sure I did this "perfectly", but simply took a small 0.35mm black rope, tied loops on both ends, and wrapped around the bottom of the boom, securing each side with staples made from 0.51mm brass rod so that the loops stick up above the staples. Moving on down the length of the main boom, the next thing shown on the plans was a cleat on the port side. I had seen others carve their own cleats on their build logs, but I decided to simply use the "pre-made" cleats (think I used a supply of them on my last build) that had been painted black. It takes a #55 drill bit for the hole to secure. We'll call that done. Looks good and in scale. BOOM TACKLE BAND - This was the first in a series of several soldering exercises I was going to need to do on this main boom. I shaped two (2) 1/64" x 1/16" brass strips around the boom. Soldered the top joint. Drilled 1/32" holes in the bottom and ran 0.81mm brass rod through after building a link to attach. Trimmed the rod and cleaned up. Using the Proxxon drill press (again!), I drilled #65 holes in each side for eyepins (not shown in this picture but in the next one with the bullseye fairleads). BULLSEYE FAIRLEADS - Looked at several options to accomplish this piece, and decided to simply present this by using eyebolts on the port and starboard sides and then wrap with 0.5mm black rope with a visible knot on the top side. QUARTER LIFT BAND - For this band, I soldered 1/64" x 1/16" strips for one side of the boom and then shaped the strips around the boom for fit. Soldered the other side and drilled holes for eyebolts on each side. Secured the eyebolts simply with CA glue, as I was concerned about soldering on top of existing solder. Hope this will hold ok. MAIN SHEET BAND - Built this band similar to the quarter lift band above. Drilled two holes on each side. Wrapped a 0.83mm brass rod around a 5/16" wooden dowel for shape and inserted from bottom into the two inside holes on each side. Soldered in place and cleaned. Eyelets were put in place in the outside holes. Have to say, for as poor as my soldering skills were several months ago, I thought these came out pretty sharp. Think I may finally have the hang of this. <shrug> SHEAVES - Using my Proxxon drill press, I drilled four (4) 1mm #60 holes in the boom in the appropriate spots, then moved the boom over to the Proxxon MF70 mill with a 1mm bit to carve the sheaves. Worked out pretty well. CLEW BAND - Again, like many of the other bands on this main boom, this clew band was similar to the other bands done previously. Wrapped two (2) 1/64" x 1/16" brass strips around the boom. Soldered with a hinge on the bottom (0.82mm brass rod cut flush). Drilled holes in the top for a bolt to eventually hold the clew iron, but will not put that bolt in until the rigging stage. TOP LIFT BAND - This band goes at the very end of the main boom, and was probably the easiest of the bands we needed to create for this boom. Wrapped, soldered and secured this band. Placed it in the drill press and drilled three holes (port, starboard and top) for eyebolts, as well as one more for an eyebolt just in front of the one on top. Hope those two aren't too close together. And that finishes the main boom! Yay! The other booms and gaffs should be a bit easier. Appreciate the likes, comments and criticisms, as always.
  3. Nice, Mustafa! What was the ship's purpose for that barrel you just made? Sharp work on the lathe, sir! 🏆
  4. Definitely early to think about, yes, Mustafa, but watching what you and others have done, and seeing what the gun deck addition does in improving the look of the Constitution with its detail, I can't not consider making that addition. Would definitely need to go back and look in extreme detail at what you all have done to add it, however. Thanks for asking!
  5. Was wondering how visible all that great detail was going to be on your finished Constitution, Mustafa! Glad to know your plans! FYI, gentlemen, you may or may not have noticed I've added the Constitution to my shipyard for "someday". Couldn't pass up the great deal at Model Expo. So now, I am really paying attention to all your awesome work! 👍
  6. Hi Dave. Did you intend on sharing/attaching the Excel spreadsheet for people to check calculations? Don't see anything attached.
  7. Appreciate your support, John! Beginning the sanding work on the wood dowels for the booms and gaffs, and have your Bluenose Post #156 readily available for reference, coming up with a game plan. 👍
  8. I found a couple sources for the 1/64" thin brass strips, I believe, and have ordered more. Until those arrive, it appears I have plenty of sanding to do, however, to shape and taper the various dowel rods for the booms and gaffs. Yay!
  9. Not really, Mustafa, but I appreciate the confidence! I'm getting a lot better than I was 6 months ago, though, so that is positive. Thanks for the support!
  10. Well, I got another phase of this Bluenose build accomplished, so thought I'd share what I did and where I have progressed to to-date. Finishing up the work on the mast bands after completing the trestle trees on the upper part of the lower two masts. Lots of soldering of small strips, rods and bolts. For the mast bands above each of the trestle tree areas, I used a slightly-smaller-than 1/4" dowel held in a vise to initially shape the ten (10) needed bands for the tops of the lower masts. I would wrap, measure and then cut the bands to (what I thought was) the appropriate circumference for the position on the mast. I then would solder the individual brass strip, but was then finding that the newly-soldered bands were too tight to go back in the place I had just measured them for. And this happened a few times. Grrr... So, I had to give just a bit more "slack", for lack of better terms, when wrapping the strips, measuring, cutting and soldering so that each of the NEW bands then fit snuggly, but manageable. As I had seen others do, I also typed out a little placement chart to keep all 10 of the bands organized while I was making them, soldering, etc. Worked out well. All of the bands need at least one hole in them, so used my new Proxxon drill with the precision vise to drill the necessary holes. That worked out well, as I then placed the bands in their proper locations and, using a pin vise, drilled holes through the band holes into the masts for the eyebolt placement. Next was working on the spring stay sail band on the foremast. On other Bluenose build logs, I have seen others use either brass rods or brass strips to create and attach this spring stay bail band and the jib stay bail bands. I thought using narrow brass strips (1/16" wide) would be easier to attach to the masts and mast bands, so I used strips (and I am running out of brass strip stock quickly!). Anyways, the spring stay bail band went on well after shaping. The cranes for each mast were made from 0.84mm eye pins soldered to 0.81mm brass rods. (In the zoomed-in picture below, they look a bit dirty, but were cleaned, of course, after soldering.) Brass strips were cut for the back plates and the links on the back side. Drilled holes using a #65 bit (.88mm) and placed the cranes in place on the two masts. This all worked out pretty well. For the mast caps on both the foremast and main mast, outer bands were shaped and soldered around the individual mast bands, and this all worked out pretty good, as well. The pictures below were taken after they were soldered and fit on the masts, but before I did some cleanup and touchup on the soldered areas. Finished out then, with the longer jib stay bail strips and long links on the fore mast. Didn't take a great number of notes on the top masts, but it all came together well. To recreate the mast tackle sheaves on both top masts, I first drilled two holes in each using the Proxxon drill and precision vise. Then, using the Proxxon MF70 mill, I cut slits to shape what would appear to be a pulley inside. Debating whether to do any more with these, but thought the mill did an excellent job of cutting those small grooves in the masts. For the gilt ball on the top of the masts, I had purchased a small box of 30mm long brass ball head pins with a 1.9mm wide ball at the top. I cut a couple of those and inserted them at the top of each mast. I may take some sandpaper to these to dull them a bit, make them a bit less shiny, but otherwise much better to use these than to create something so small. Speaking of small, I have NO idea how to make the truck for the flag halliards. Tried cutting small small circles but everything was breaking. I'll leave that for now until I get to that point in the rigging. With that said, the masts (I think) are pretty much done. Just for grins, I put everything together on the work stand, and then on the ship itself, to see how it all looks. Man, this ship is going to be big when done! Now, I believe it's on to the booms and gaffs! As I mentioned earlier, I have run through all of the 1/64" x 1/16" brass strips that I had in inventory. Got some new brass strips, but they are not quite as thin as the 1/64" ones I had, so a bit harder to bend and shape. Have another source I am querying, so we'll see if they come through, as it appears I have plenty more bands to create. As always, appreciate the likes, comments and criticisms!
  11. Although I have the Keel Klamper (doesn't everyone?!?) and use it primarily, I also have a foam cradle that has been helpful at various times, as well. I got mine from Micro-Mark. Triple Duty Foam Cradle for Models and Ships (micromark.com)
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