DocBlake
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DocBlake got a reaction from Ondras71 in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
I fit the rails to the bulwarks and clamped them in place. I then drove a couple of little yellow nails to keep them aligned during the glue up. I used 15 minute Bob Smith Industries Epoxy. The photos show the curvature of the rails upward and inward moving aft. There is no poly on the exterior of the model, nor on the main deck or inboard bulwarks. That's why the colors look so washed out! The poly will resuscitate the wood!
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DocBlake got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys!
Next up are the main rails. These are made of ebony, 7/16" wide and7/32" thick. I started by cutting out the blanks a bit long. Then I plowed a decorative rabbet into the inboard and outboard edges of each rail using an Artesania Latina scraper.
The rails rise moving aft over the last 8 frames, and there is a distinct narrowing of the hull over the last 4 frames. That means the rails must be curved upward quite a bit as well as inward. Using ebony, this wasn't easy!
I used a Milwaukee brand heat gun to do the compound bend it two steps. This is really a hit-or-miss proposition as it's difficult to "undo" a mistake after the wood is bent. Have extra rail blanks! I got lucky and both rails bent correctly the first time. The photos show the rail blanks after bending.
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DocBlake got a reaction from gjdale in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys!
Next up are the main rails. These are made of ebony, 7/16" wide and7/32" thick. I started by cutting out the blanks a bit long. Then I plowed a decorative rabbet into the inboard and outboard edges of each rail using an Artesania Latina scraper.
The rails rise moving aft over the last 8 frames, and there is a distinct narrowing of the hull over the last 4 frames. That means the rails must be curved upward quite a bit as well as inward. Using ebony, this wasn't easy!
I used a Milwaukee brand heat gun to do the compound bend it two steps. This is really a hit-or-miss proposition as it's difficult to "undo" a mistake after the wood is bent. Have extra rail blanks! I got lucky and both rails bent correctly the first time. The photos show the rail blanks after bending.
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DocBlake got a reaction from mtaylor in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys!
Next up are the main rails. These are made of ebony, 7/16" wide and7/32" thick. I started by cutting out the blanks a bit long. Then I plowed a decorative rabbet into the inboard and outboard edges of each rail using an Artesania Latina scraper.
The rails rise moving aft over the last 8 frames, and there is a distinct narrowing of the hull over the last 4 frames. That means the rails must be curved upward quite a bit as well as inward. Using ebony, this wasn't easy!
I used a Milwaukee brand heat gun to do the compound bend it two steps. This is really a hit-or-miss proposition as it's difficult to "undo" a mistake after the wood is bent. Have extra rail blanks! I got lucky and both rails bent correctly the first time. The photos show the rail blanks after bending.
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DocBlake got a reaction from KentM in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys!
Next up are the main rails. These are made of ebony, 7/16" wide and7/32" thick. I started by cutting out the blanks a bit long. Then I plowed a decorative rabbet into the inboard and outboard edges of each rail using an Artesania Latina scraper.
The rails rise moving aft over the last 8 frames, and there is a distinct narrowing of the hull over the last 4 frames. That means the rails must be curved upward quite a bit as well as inward. Using ebony, this wasn't easy!
I used a Milwaukee brand heat gun to do the compound bend it two steps. This is really a hit-or-miss proposition as it's difficult to "undo" a mistake after the wood is bent. Have extra rail blanks! I got lucky and both rails bent correctly the first time. The photos show the rail blanks after bending.
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DocBlake got a reaction from JpR62 in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys!
Next up are the main rails. These are made of ebony, 7/16" wide and7/32" thick. I started by cutting out the blanks a bit long. Then I plowed a decorative rabbet into the inboard and outboard edges of each rail using an Artesania Latina scraper.
The rails rise moving aft over the last 8 frames, and there is a distinct narrowing of the hull over the last 4 frames. That means the rails must be curved upward quite a bit as well as inward. Using ebony, this wasn't easy!
I used a Milwaukee brand heat gun to do the compound bend it two steps. This is really a hit-or-miss proposition as it's difficult to "undo" a mistake after the wood is bent. Have extra rail blanks! I got lucky and both rails bent correctly the first time. The photos show the rail blanks after bending.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Seventynet in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys!
Next up are the main rails. These are made of ebony, 7/16" wide and7/32" thick. I started by cutting out the blanks a bit long. Then I plowed a decorative rabbet into the inboard and outboard edges of each rail using an Artesania Latina scraper.
The rails rise moving aft over the last 8 frames, and there is a distinct narrowing of the hull over the last 4 frames. That means the rails must be curved upward quite a bit as well as inward. Using ebony, this wasn't easy!
I used a Milwaukee brand heat gun to do the compound bend it two steps. This is really a hit-or-miss proposition as it's difficult to "undo" a mistake after the wood is bent. Have extra rail blanks! I got lucky and both rails bent correctly the first time. The photos show the rail blanks after bending.
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DocBlake got a reaction from ccoyle in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys!
Next up are the main rails. These are made of ebony, 7/16" wide and7/32" thick. I started by cutting out the blanks a bit long. Then I plowed a decorative rabbet into the inboard and outboard edges of each rail using an Artesania Latina scraper.
The rails rise moving aft over the last 8 frames, and there is a distinct narrowing of the hull over the last 4 frames. That means the rails must be curved upward quite a bit as well as inward. Using ebony, this wasn't easy!
I used a Milwaukee brand heat gun to do the compound bend it two steps. This is really a hit-or-miss proposition as it's difficult to "undo" a mistake after the wood is bent. Have extra rail blanks! I got lucky and both rails bent correctly the first time. The photos show the rail blanks after bending.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys!
Next up are the main rails. These are made of ebony, 7/16" wide and7/32" thick. I started by cutting out the blanks a bit long. Then I plowed a decorative rabbet into the inboard and outboard edges of each rail using an Artesania Latina scraper.
The rails rise moving aft over the last 8 frames, and there is a distinct narrowing of the hull over the last 4 frames. That means the rails must be curved upward quite a bit as well as inward. Using ebony, this wasn't easy!
I used a Milwaukee brand heat gun to do the compound bend it two steps. This is really a hit-or-miss proposition as it's difficult to "undo" a mistake after the wood is bent. Have extra rail blanks! I got lucky and both rails bent correctly the first time. The photos show the rail blanks after bending.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Tonphil1960 in HMS Blandford by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1/32 Scale - cross-section
I just returned from Manitowoc WI where I attended the The 45th annual Model Ships and Boats Contest. I entered two models: The British Capstan circa 1777 and the HMS Blandford cross section. I'm pleased to report that each model won a Gold Award! Thanks to Mike Rohrer (Mike41) for his excellent plans for Blandford and to Toni Levine et.al. and the NRG for the Capstan project.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Tony Hunt in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
Hi Pat! Not really necessary to seal the balsa.
The next task was to thin the bulkhead extensions. They were left thick to allow fairing of the outside of the hull. The inside surfaces then need thinning. I use X-Acto blades and a Proxxon detail sander with 60 grit adhesive backed sandpaper. Worked well. No broken extensions because of the two thicknesses of basswood ninety degrees to each other.
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DocBlake got a reaction from AnobiumPunctatum in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
Hi Pat! Not really necessary to seal the balsa.
The next task was to thin the bulkhead extensions. They were left thick to allow fairing of the outside of the hull. The inside surfaces then need thinning. I use X-Acto blades and a Proxxon detail sander with 60 grit adhesive backed sandpaper. Worked well. No broken extensions because of the two thicknesses of basswood ninety degrees to each other.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Tony Hunt in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
I fitted the bow and stern filler blocks. They are balsa wood so they shaped easily. The filler blocks and the frames were then faired. No problem with any of the bulkhead extensions breaking due to the double thickness of cross-grained basswood making up the bulkhead blanks.
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DocBlake got a reaction from AnobiumPunctatum in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
Thanks, Pat.
After drawing in a bearding line and the rabbet, I tapered the lower edge of the false keel to proper size and glued the frame together.
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DocBlake got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
Hi Pat! Not really necessary to seal the balsa.
The next task was to thin the bulkhead extensions. They were left thick to allow fairing of the outside of the hull. The inside surfaces then need thinning. I use X-Acto blades and a Proxxon detail sander with 60 grit adhesive backed sandpaper. Worked well. No broken extensions because of the two thicknesses of basswood ninety degrees to each other.
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DocBlake got a reaction from druxey in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
Hi Pat! Not really necessary to seal the balsa.
The next task was to thin the bulkhead extensions. They were left thick to allow fairing of the outside of the hull. The inside surfaces then need thinning. I use X-Acto blades and a Proxxon detail sander with 60 grit adhesive backed sandpaper. Worked well. No broken extensions because of the two thicknesses of basswood ninety degrees to each other.
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DocBlake got a reaction from BANYAN in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
Hi Pat! Not really necessary to seal the balsa.
The next task was to thin the bulkhead extensions. They were left thick to allow fairing of the outside of the hull. The inside surfaces then need thinning. I use X-Acto blades and a Proxxon detail sander with 60 grit adhesive backed sandpaper. Worked well. No broken extensions because of the two thicknesses of basswood ninety degrees to each other.
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DocBlake got a reaction from mtaylor in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
Hi Pat! Not really necessary to seal the balsa.
The next task was to thin the bulkhead extensions. They were left thick to allow fairing of the outside of the hull. The inside surfaces then need thinning. I use X-Acto blades and a Proxxon detail sander with 60 grit adhesive backed sandpaper. Worked well. No broken extensions because of the two thicknesses of basswood ninety degrees to each other.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Roger Pellett in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
Hi Pat! Not really necessary to seal the balsa.
The next task was to thin the bulkhead extensions. They were left thick to allow fairing of the outside of the hull. The inside surfaces then need thinning. I use X-Acto blades and a Proxxon detail sander with 60 grit adhesive backed sandpaper. Worked well. No broken extensions because of the two thicknesses of basswood ninety degrees to each other.
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DocBlake got a reaction from AnobiumPunctatum in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
I fitted the bow and stern filler blocks. They are balsa wood so they shaped easily. The filler blocks and the frames were then faired. No problem with any of the bulkhead extensions breaking due to the double thickness of cross-grained basswood making up the bulkhead blanks.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Tony Hunt in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
As mentioned, the sub deck is made in two pieces. I used 1/32” plywood because it bends easily and you can cut it with a pair of scissors! Since there is a second final layer of decking, I wasn’t too concerned about how tight the tolerances were for the notches that accommodate the bulwark extensions. I framed in the mast step on the profile former, drew a centerline on both pieces of subdeck, drilled the mast hole and then glued down the sub deck using 30 minute epoxy and those little yellow nails that come with every model ship kit! When the glue dried I removed the nails. The next task is bow and stern filler blocks. There is a bluff bow and the stern is pretty rounded also.
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DocBlake got a reaction from CiscoH in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
Hi Pat! Not really necessary to seal the balsa.
The next task was to thin the bulkhead extensions. They were left thick to allow fairing of the outside of the hull. The inside surfaces then need thinning. I use X-Acto blades and a Proxxon detail sander with 60 grit adhesive backed sandpaper. Worked well. No broken extensions because of the two thicknesses of basswood ninety degrees to each other.
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DocBlake got a reaction from bruce d in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
Hi Pat! Not really necessary to seal the balsa.
The next task was to thin the bulkhead extensions. They were left thick to allow fairing of the outside of the hull. The inside surfaces then need thinning. I use X-Acto blades and a Proxxon detail sander with 60 grit adhesive backed sandpaper. Worked well. No broken extensions because of the two thicknesses of basswood ninety degrees to each other.
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DocBlake got a reaction from CiscoH in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
The bulwark extensions on the bulkheads would be harder to fair if made of plywood, but if basswood were used, they would be very fragile and likely to break. I solved the problem by making up a blank for each bulkhead. These were two 1/8" thick squares of basswood glued togther. I glued them so the grain of each was at 90 degrees from the other. This prevented breakage of the bulwark extensions. I also ploughed dadoes into each bulkhead so I could fit basswood stringers to stiffen the frame. Easier than blocking each frame. The final bulkheads are ¼” thick. You can see the two layers in the second photo. The third photo shows the layout of the profile former before cutting and the last photo is of all the bulkheads ready to be glued up!
Note the tumblehome of the fore and aft bulkhead extensions. That may be a problem a little later!
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DocBlake got a reaction from druxey in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
I fitted the bow and stern filler blocks. They are balsa wood so they shaped easily. The filler blocks and the frames were then faired. No problem with any of the bulkhead extensions breaking due to the double thickness of cross-grained basswood making up the bulkhead blanks.
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