DocBlake
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DocBlake got a reaction from mrjimmy in Design and Build a Custom Work Station
Nice job! A SketchUp model would be very cool to have.
I'm building a storage cart for parts from Woodsmith plans. This is to help organize the clutter around my work area. What I'd like to do after that is build the hobby bench featured in the current edition of Woodsmith Magazine, Here are some photos of the storage cabinet and the workbench
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DocBlake got a reaction from mrjimmy in Design and Build a Custom Work Station
The workbench is in the current Woodsmith #219 June/July 2015. The slant-front cart is a free download. Try this link: http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/411/slant-front-tool-cart.pdf
If it doesn't work, google slant-front cart and go to the Woodsmith website. All you need to do is subscribe to free email tips by entering your email address and you can download the plans.
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DocBlake got a reaction from robin b in Design and Build a Custom Work Station
Nice job! A SketchUp model would be very cool to have.
I'm building a storage cart for parts from Woodsmith plans. This is to help organize the clutter around my work area. What I'd like to do after that is build the hobby bench featured in the current edition of Woodsmith Magazine, Here are some photos of the storage cabinet and the workbench
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DocBlake got a reaction from KenW in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
After cutting the sweep ports I turned my attention to the main rail and swiss pear molding (for the quarterdeck bulwarks). The practicum calls for a molding cut with a razor blade into which is ground the 3 bead profile. This is then used like a molding plane to "scratch" the profile into the wood. I tried a dozen times to get the 3 bead configuration right, and failed each time. The problem is the the molding strips are .075" X .075", pretty small! So I copped out and did the easy thing: I cut the molding to have 2 beads, not 3. In the end, no one will notice! (except me!). The photos show the practicum molding and the blade used to cut it as well as the blade I used to produce the 2 beaded molding. On my razor blade is a profile for the 3 bead molding that didn't cut well at all. I used the profile to the extreme right. Shown are two moldings: one in swiss pear, the other in holly.
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DocBlake got a reaction from shane762 in Design and Build a Custom Work Station
Nice job! A SketchUp model would be very cool to have.
I'm building a storage cart for parts from Woodsmith plans. This is to help organize the clutter around my work area. What I'd like to do after that is build the hobby bench featured in the current edition of Woodsmith Magazine, Here are some photos of the storage cabinet and the workbench
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DocBlake got a reaction from gjdale in Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 by gjdale - FINISHED - 1/48 - Cross-Section
Beautiful build. It makes me want to start mine...but I need to get a little more experience before attempting this POF scratch build. I purchased the Lauck Street Shipyard's POF kit "Armed Virginia Sloop" and will soon start a build log. Hopefully this will boost my experience level and make the Granado cross section doable! BTW: If you've not seen the Lauck Street kit, it is awesome! The 3/8" scale makes a fairly large admiralty model. The build style is similar to Harold Hahn's, with sistered frames. I ordered mine with hard maple frames and cherry keel and deck framing for contrast. A beautiful kit.
http://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/avskitpmt.htm
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DocBlake got a reaction from Martin W in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
After cutting the sweep ports I turned my attention to the main rail and swiss pear molding (for the quarterdeck bulwarks). The practicum calls for a molding cut with a razor blade into which is ground the 3 bead profile. This is then used like a molding plane to "scratch" the profile into the wood. I tried a dozen times to get the 3 bead configuration right, and failed each time. The problem is the the molding strips are .075" X .075", pretty small! So I copped out and did the easy thing: I cut the molding to have 2 beads, not 3. In the end, no one will notice! (except me!). The photos show the practicum molding and the blade used to cut it as well as the blade I used to produce the 2 beaded molding. On my razor blade is a profile for the 3 bead molding that didn't cut well at all. I used the profile to the extreme right. Shown are two moldings: one in swiss pear, the other in holly.
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DocBlake reacted to gjdale in Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 by gjdale - FINISHED - 1/48 - Cross-Section
Thanks everyone for the kind words and also to all of the likes. Progress continues at a glacial pace, but I'm slowly catching up to Mobbsie (albeit that will only be a temporary state of affairs!).
Mortar Pit Housing
Construction of the Mortar Pit Housing is relatively straight forward, once you get your head around the angles involved. Although the corner diagonal walls have two 45-degree faces, the faces need to be of different widths in order to align properly with the side/end walls. It only took me three attempts to work this out……
The other thing that became immediately obvious once I started to fit the Mortar Pit walls, was that the pre-cut notches in the surrounding beams (for the angled carlings), were very poorly cut and positioned.
I decided to glue the Mortar Pit Housing in place and then adjust the notches to allow a proper fit of the carlings. This left some unsightly gaps, which I have filled with a mixture of sawdust and diluted PVA glue.
The end result looks okay, but the lesson learned is that it would have been better to NOT pre-cut the notches for the angled carlings. It was not as difficult as might be imagined to cut them in-situ (with a sharp chisel) once the mortar pit housing was in place.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Martin W in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
I cut the oar sweeps into the bulkhead planking. They turned out OK despite being a little "off" from the Hahn plans.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Excellent job rigging the cannons, Brian. Don't add the riding bitt to the deck until after the mast is stepped and the spreader yard horse is rigged. It will be impossible to rig it with the bitt in place.
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DocBlake got a reaction from jdbradford in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
Very slow progress due to outdoor projects commissioned by the Admiral. I've finished framing the gun ports in swiss pear. Next up is cutting the oar sweeps. I laid out the sweep ports and found that two of them fell directly on the kit bulkheads. Not wanting to remove those bulkheads because the plywood is very hard and I need them for supporting the planking, I relocated three of the sweep ports. The last one aft was moved forward from where the Hahn plans call for by about 8 scale inches. Port #4 from the bow had to move the most: 2-1/2 scale feet aft. Port #3 was moved 8" back. I cut out little squares of pin striping tape and attached them to show the sweep locations. Overall I think the placement is pleasing to the eye if not strictly correct according to Hahn's plans.
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DocBlake got a reaction from GuntherMT in Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Excellent job rigging the cannons, Brian. Don't add the riding bitt to the deck until after the mast is stepped and the spreader yard horse is rigged. It will be impossible to rig it with the bitt in place.
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DocBlake reacted to GuntherMT in Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Time to get back to making progress on the ship.
I made 5 more breaching lines, attached them to the cascabel's on the 5 cannons, and then opened up the side gun carriage rings, put the line through them, and re-closed the rings.
I then attached the breaching lines to the bulwarks, glued them in, and glued the guns down.
Everything in these pictures is now permanently attached to the ship (except for the sloppy rope coils that are just sitting there). I will attach the companionway later, I need to build and install a couple of elm-tree pumps that go really close to it, so I am waiting on that. I also need to do some touch-up here and there as I managed to ding some things, and knock a cleat loose while putting the cannons on. I really am far too clumsy for this hobby.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Martin W in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
Very slow progress due to outdoor projects commissioned by the Admiral. I've finished framing the gun ports in swiss pear. Next up is cutting the oar sweeps. I laid out the sweep ports and found that two of them fell directly on the kit bulkheads. Not wanting to remove those bulkheads because the plywood is very hard and I need them for supporting the planking, I relocated three of the sweep ports. The last one aft was moved forward from where the Hahn plans call for by about 8 scale inches. Port #4 from the bow had to move the most: 2-1/2 scale feet aft. Port #3 was moved 8" back. I cut out little squares of pin striping tape and attached them to show the sweep locations. Overall I think the placement is pleasing to the eye if not strictly correct according to Hahn's plans.
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DocBlake got a reaction from GuntherMT in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
I'm working on the planking above the wales. I have one more plank on each side at the bow before the main rail goes on. I've enlarged the gun ports to their final size. You can see the swiss pear framing for the ports that matches the planned inner bulwark planking. Jonathan or any other kit bashers: Any tips on how best to make the scraper to form the profile on the main rail?
Dave
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DocBlake reacted to wq3296 in Question about stoves and how the rotisserie worked
Greetings Mod,
No, turbochargers don't run on lots of hot air. They take in hot gases produced by combustion which have expanded to many times their original volume as a result of combustion heat. Accordingly, because of this increase in volume the velocity of the of the heated gas increases per unit area of the ducting. In other words, a heated gas flowing through a fixed orifice will have a greater velocity than the same gas at ambient temperature because it occupies a larger volume. See gas laws in any physics book. The hot gases produced by the fuel burning in the combustion chamber of the oven, if hot enough, would have been sufficient to perform work i.e. turning the fan in the flue. The reason why firemen chop holes in a roof during a fire is to release combustion gas caused buy the fire before it reaches sufficient pressure to blow the windows out or the roof off.
Given the amount of evidence to the contrary, you need to rethink your position.
wq3296
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Question about stoves and how the rotisserie worked
Modeler12: If your contention is that the spit was hand cranked by cabin boys or crew, then there is an important design feature you must explain. Why the elaborate gear and chain setup connecting the lower spit (which you presumed was hand-cranked as the only source of power) with the upper shaft which passes through the flue and is attached to a fan? Totally unnecessary and superfluous according to your theory. Why was it there? What function did it serve? As you know, there was nothing on a ship that didn't serve a purpose.
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DocBlake got a reaction from GLakie in Question about stoves and how the rotisserie worked
Modeler12: If your contention is that the spit was hand cranked by cabin boys or crew, then there is an important design feature you must explain. Why the elaborate gear and chain setup connecting the lower spit (which you presumed was hand-cranked as the only source of power) with the upper shaft which passes through the flue and is attached to a fan? Totally unnecessary and superfluous according to your theory. Why was it there? What function did it serve? As you know, there was nothing on a ship that didn't serve a purpose.
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DocBlake got a reaction from GuntherMT in Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Nice job, Brian!
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DocBlake got a reaction from Modeler12 in Question about stoves and how the rotisserie worked
Modeler12: If your contention is that the spit was hand cranked by cabin boys or crew, then there is an important design feature you must explain. Why the elaborate gear and chain setup connecting the lower spit (which you presumed was hand-cranked as the only source of power) with the upper shaft which passes through the flue and is attached to a fan? Totally unnecessary and superfluous according to your theory. Why was it there? What function did it serve? As you know, there was nothing on a ship that didn't serve a purpose.
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DocBlake reacted to KenW in Rattlesnake by KenW - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - American Privateer
I finished the planking above the wales on both sides up to the top if the gun ports. I have yet to add the moulding since I have yet to cut a razor blade that scraped a suitable moulding shape. I’m still working on that.
Also, I realized after re-reading Jon’s (JSGERSON) build log that I forgot to add the sheaves on the sides. So I ending up removing planks, created the sheaves and carved out a place for them on new planks. Once everything was put back together, the result looks pretty good.
So the sides are done; and once I get the moulding to look right, I can start planking the lower hull. I need to drill the treenails, of course, but I have to wait for my drill bit order to arrive.
The photo looking from the stern shows there are problems that I hope will be covered by the fashion pieces.
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DocBlake reacted to rcmdrvr in HMS Bounty 1783 by rcmdvr - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:48
Next step is to build the stern. This went quite easily. I began the first of the planking with the walnut. I guess I have made the election to single plank the hull.
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DocBlake got a reaction from GuntherMT in Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Nice job so far! I didn't care for the Britannia metal wheel so I bought a boxwood wheel from MS. I sanded it down on the disc sander to the proper thickness, then stained it a red mahogany color. It turned out nice, I think.
Dave
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DocBlake reacted to GuntherMT in Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Took a break from tiny little blocks tonight, and gave the captain a way to steer his ship. Seems like a reasonable thing to do, given that she has a rudder and all.
I did not replace the cast wheel with anything aftermarket, as all of the wood wheels I've seen are really 'fat', and I don't think they look right. I have read several articles on scratch making wheels, but I don't have the right equipment to use any of those methods yet, so I just painted the kit one and used it. Not sure the color is right, but I don't have a lot of brown paints, so this is what I ended up with.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Saburo in Brig Eagle by robnbill - 1:48
Great job on the Brodie stove, Bill. Your model is beautiful. Keep up the good work!
Dave
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