DocBlake

I have read the buildinglog. And there is only one question I have left..........
 
 
 
Do you, or do you have not super human powers?
 
 
 
 
I will worship you the next coming updates, oh great shipmodellingguru

I used hot glue to glue the keel blocks to the gantry jig. This allowed me to keep them very small and still hold the keel adequately. I also removed the keels tail since it is not required with the gantry. 
After this was done, I used some cherry to build a test frame. I wanted to go through the process from cutting the raw wood to having the frame ready to mount to the keel. I chose Frame X as my test subject - Bwhahaha.

I used a band saw to cut the frame out once the glue dried. Then I used the Oscillating Sander to remove the excess wood to the line for the frame. I used the Scroll saw to trim the keel slot and cleaned it up with a file. Once that was done, I used a #57 drill to drill the drift holes. I did this in the drill press since it allows me to keep the frame at a specific angle during the drilling. In this case, of course at 90 degrees.

I used the Byrnes drawplate to make bamboo pins. These I glued into the holes. I have not yet trimmed these back since the glue is still drying but I did try a test fit with the gantry. Since this is a test frame and also made of Cherry, this will not go any further than trimming the sanding the pins. I will instead move on to completing the new lofting set then start working on the frames at the stern first. 

My plan (always subject to change) is to start the frames with the last full square frame. Then work back to the stern through the counter timbers. Once the stern is complete, I will head to the bow, per Mike, Gary, and Ray's excellent advice.

Since this is my absolute first attempt at making a frame, please comment if you see I am doing something stupid.

Thanks,

I completed relofting the frames to the as-built spacing. I have decided that I want to redo my keel for a number of reasons. First, I want to make the deadwood more in line with the research materials. In those they show the stern half frames to only have half of the frame slotted into the deadwood. In addition, I want to re pin the keel with brass scaled to that in the materials.
 
In that vein, I put together a chart mapping the scales for 1:48 pin sizing ½" through 6". This maps the scale sizes through Metric, standard, wire gauge, and micro drill sizes.
 

 
I took brass wire and pinned a scaled 18" beam with ½ through 3" pins as a reference. 
 
 

I stil need to refine my stern counter timber framing and plan on doing that tomorrow or later today. Then I am ready to start making sawdust.
 
 

Before I get into the keel assembly I should explain my sources of information. First, there is a 1984 PhD dissertation by Dr. Kevin Crisman found on the Texas A&M Underwater archeology Site. Great reading. This was expanded by Dr. Crisman in a book called "The Eagle, an American brig on Lake Champlain during the War of 1812" published in 1987. This was followed last year by a chapter on the Eagle in "Coffins of the Brave" also edited by Dr. Crisman. There is also a great practicum developed by Gene Bodnar on scratch building a version of the Eagle. These documents along with my CAD drawings and supplementary communications with Dr. Crisman on various aspects of the ship are the materials used in this build.
 
I have completed redoing the keel assembly. I went through all of Dr. Crisman's materials noting dimensions carefully. Where text differed from sketches, I followed dimensions explicitly called out in the text. A few things I found very interesting. First, as I followed the sizing between the various parts on the bow assembly it fell into place that the apron was shaped not only to support the cant frames but also to support the side planking leading to the rabbet. So the rabbet was wider here to allow for this. The assembly was also shaped. The top of the bow and the apron would be 18". The forward part of the cutwater would be 6" and the keel where it met the bow would be 8". This gradually increases to 12" before reversing at the deadwood. This solved some of the perplexing transition questions I had with both the bow and stern.
 
The stern has notches cut for the heels of the futtocks in the half frames. On the ship, these were a bit sloppy with the notches on one side of the keel deeper and wider than the other. This is more a factor of the speed at which they built the ship and shipwright skills. Dr. Crisman goes on to explain that the lower deadwood had a great deal of shaping done with great forethought. It starts out at 12" on the forward end and 8" on the stern (following the shape of the keel below the rabbet and 15" above. This change follows the rabbet as it rises towards the stern and would have provided a stable base for the garboard plank.
 
Since the frames will be white rock maple, I stained the cherry for contrast. Prior to staining it, I sanded it to 220, the burnished it with steel wool. I still have to add the fishplates. Note in the photos, the plan the ship is sitting on has my old framing numbers. As I worked through the various details called out in the materials, I found my numbering scheme was off. Frame X in the materials is actually a ½ thickness square frame. Once I made this change all the details mapped out by the materials aligned perfectly. I also changed the number of cant frames in the bow to 6 to following the materials.
 
 

I will be happy to share my drawings for free if you want them. There are two flavors. The original drawings I did which follow the Bodnar practicum closely, except for areas that were changed after Dr. Crisman's comments. I do have lofted frames in DeltaCAD that you could have. I also have the latest generation of drawings that I am using for my build. I call this the "as-Built" set since the frames are based on what Dr. Crisman found rather than a more stylized version that is from the practicum.
 
DeltaCAD is pretty inexpensive and is easy to use. I have all of the plans in PDF, except for the frames. Since I printed them at home, I did not need to make exportable files. When you get ready, let me know.

Nice work, so far.  I like your commitment to being historically accurate with the fittings such as the pumps.
 
One thing that is alarming is the bottle and glass full of "Jack Daniels" on the box-cover art!  Does this mean that the "Jack" is a required tool for this build?
 
Dave
 
I

Nice work, so far.  I like your commitment to being historically accurate with the fittings such as the pumps.
 
One thing that is alarming is the bottle and glass full of "Jack Daniels" on the box-cover art!  Does this mean that the "Jack" is a required tool for this build?
 
Dave
 
I

I favor 3,4 or 5 ,but I'd like to see them finished, also.   
 
Dave

Well time for an update
 
Things been progressing along, I have finished plans for the orlop deck beams that I will attempt with nothing more than a sharp knife, a razor saw and some files.
Other decks will be similar, but the knees are angled down the walls on those decks and not in the floor itself as they are in this deck.
 
I started construction of the hull It went quiet smoothly
 

 
Most of this will be hidden by planking of some sort so I did not concern myself with finish too much, just checked for square often, but easy method to keep square as the frames are all the same.
 

 
 
I did try to put the gun ports in as I built the whole frame (they can be see installed on the next photo), but I latter removed these as they were not even or square enough.
 

 
 
Next I used the trusty razor saw to remove the sides of the hull to make space for the gangway, and a change of level for the rail.
And I cut gunports for the upper deck, these I want to line with framing timbers after the hull planking is installed.
 

 
 
Next I made a redementry jigs that were held in place with small wedges, I lined them up by measuring the height with a rule and lined them up by eye
I used these to glue in the timber using the sides of the small jigs to keep them square to each other.
 

 
They came out fairly strait and at the right height, I can still adjust them after I have planked both sides of the hull.
 

 
 
That is where I am up to at the moment I have cleaned up some of the white metal parts with files, And played around with most of the other parts to see what I want to replace or add to, (Lots of extra buckets/tool boxes/chairs/stools/etc.)
 
I am still confused about the pumps, I find some models with chain type pumps and a cistern assembly on the gun deck next to main mast, but the real ship has the same pumps as was supplied with the kit.
Is it possible that it had chain pumps in it's early life and the type that are fitted now/supplied with the kit were added later, if so do the pumps that are fitted now have drains/pipes that carry through to the lower decks, 
The pumps in plans supplied with the kit are on gun deck but do not carry through to lower decks to collect water, I believe they were connected to the scuppers when in use but I am not sure how they were connected at all.
 
Here is the pumps fitted now
 

 
Thanks for photo Bob
 
Anyway I will keep log informed as to my progress
 
Back to building.

Progress so far:  The bulkheads and filler have been glued in place and the hull faired.  Any voids filled with wood filler.  I performed the major surgery on Bulkhead 12, removing it.  the counter has been formed, and the inside of the transom hollowed out.  Next is to place the external transom plywood.  Pictures show the counter ans the hollowed out transom wood.  Jonathan:  Did you do anything to the hollowed out area.  I'd like to panel it, or fit an upholstered bench across the span, as might have been done in the real vessel.
 
Dave

I'm just finishing up the rigging on my Armed Virginia Sloop   For my next project I plan to build  a kit-bashed version of the Mamoli "Rattlesnake" based on the Lauck Street practicum.  I'm starting to do some research and prep work now.  This will be my build log.  
   
 
I plan to show some exposed frames on the starboard side as well as all the other mods Bob has added in his practicum.  I do not anticipate fully rigging the ship, either leaving stub masts, admiralty style, or finish the masts up to the tops.  
 
   
 
I have the Mamoli kit and the Hobby Mill wood package.  Today I had the Hahn plans reduced to 74%.  Two copies cost $35 at Fed Ex/Kinko's.  I hope to begin posting progress soon.  
 
   
 
Dave  
 

 

I've been studying the practicum and the Hahn plans, and I finally couldn't stand it any more.  I had to cut some wood!  So I built the new stem and cut out the stern post.  The center keel contains the stem, true keel and stern post.  When glued up, these will be removed by cutting along the rabbet line.  The two photos show the rabbet line.  The practicum calls for transferring the bearding line from th Hahn plans to the center keel.  Where is the bearding line on the Hahn plans?  I'm stumped!
 
Dave

Finally done!  Next up is a small case to protect the battle station

I've been studying the practicum and the Hahn plans, and I finally couldn't stand it any more.  I had to cut some wood!  So I built the new stem and cut out the stern post.  The center keel contains the stem, true keel and stern post.  When glued up, these will be removed by cutting along the rabbet line.  The two photos show the rabbet line.  The practicum calls for transferring the bearding line from th Hahn plans to the center keel.  Where is the bearding line on the Hahn plans?  I'm stumped!
 
Dave

I used Bob's practicum on my AVS and it was very helpful.  Obviously it's designed for someone who's not had a ton of experience (me)!  The Practicum for the Rattlesnake is manditory for the kitbashed version I'm planning.You can buy all the various Practica as a package for $200.  This will allow you to use them for multiple vessels, including a scratch built "Hannah".  Here's a link:  http://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/
 
Here are some shots of the model under construction from the Practicum:
 
 
 
Dave

I'm finally finished with my AVS!
 
Dave

Almost finished.   Only the anchors left to rig.  I was concerned that my rope coils at the bow were too long, but if I made them shorter, I couldn't get them to bend and lay naturally.  They "stuck out" almost straight from the rail.  I added a shot of a 5'6" sailor standing nearby.  i don't think the scale is terrible.  Any thoughts? I think the riding bit rope coils look OK.
 
I read about a technique using shrink wrap tubing on models for straps, bands etc.  I tried it on my anchors and it worked great.  Just cut to the right width, slide the resulting rings onto  the anchor stock in their proper positions and head in a 300 degree oven for about 3 minutes,  The tubing comes in various sizes and is cheap.  Another great use would be the iron reinforcement rings on the mast.  
 
I'll post finished shots when the anchors are rigged.
 
Dave
 
BTW:  Anyone have a good technique for getting rid of the "fuzzies", especially on the tan rigging?  Dilute white glue?

Nearing the end.  Only two yards to rig and the anchors to finish!  The stern shot is the only one with the rudder fitted. 
 
Dave

My modeling empire is rapidly consuming a larger and larger share of our home.  In order to placate the Admiral, I named the AVS after her.  I also added a nameplate that includes her Virginia home port.  Her name is Elizabeth, but that wouldn't fit on the transom along with Norfolk!
 
Dave

Finally got the cannons rigged.  Placed the bowsprit and it's hardware today.  Ready to start rigging!
 
Dave

I'm finally finished with my AVS!
 
Dave

I'm finally finished with my AVS!
 
Dave

I'm finally finished with my AVS!
 
Dave

Hi Brian, and thanks.  The line is Amati line.  The junk in the AVS kit is worthless.  I used Syren line for my battle station, and ultimately that's what I'll use going forward.  Expensive, but looks great.  Unless I buy a Byrnes rope walk.......
 
Dave

I'm finally finished with my AVS!
 
Dave