Jump to content

Snug Harbor Johnny

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Southeastern Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    history, craft projects

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Ahoy mates - I've followed the information available on the new endurance kit, and have recently viewed the entire video tutorial available on it ... all 67 (if I remember rightly) youtube elements that run 3 or 4 more minutes each ... that's around 4 hours of watching. Of course they don't cover multiples of elements - or every single plank ... but each step is covered. I have to agree that even for a motivated adult 'beginner', this kit is doable 'out of the box'. Of course, there have been compromises in 'dead' accuracy of lines and details ... and the result if built 'as in
  2. A few tweaks have improved the fit of the bottom from what they were (seen in the photos). Something not easily seen in the photos (but seen on broadside images of the same kit) is that the act of forming the stern together (the last phase of attaching the hull sides to the deck/superstructure) causes the an upward deformation of the deck ... a little like a banana curves - although not as much. The railings want to flair outward as well. I blush with the positive comments on the build, since (as many builders are) I see every fault ... yet have learned enough to do better on round two as n
  3. I just received a copy of 'Masting & Rigging the Clipper Ship & Ocean Carrier' by Harold Underhill (1969 reprint, hardbound) - a bargain from Abe's books at $25 ($45 on Amazon, higher prices seen on Ebay). I bought it as a supplement to the Peterson book (and the Anderson book on an even earlier period) to see the evolution of rigging - and to use when I get to a clipper model. Yes, Underhill's book deals with later period rigging, but I paged through the first half (a preface to a serious read) and could follow his explanations of masting, standing rigging and running rigging if sai
  4. Thank you all for the comments. I might 'tweak' some of the metal here and there - but don't want to break-off anything else. I really MUST get back to my wooden model - but fair weather means I'll be spending time on Admiralty projects for a while. It a 'good news - bad news' situation ... like being an oarsman in a longboat where the good news is a round of grog for the crewmen aboard. The bad news? ... The Admiral want to waterski ! 😉 Johnny
  5. Ahoy mates, I was looking at the Scarnhorst build and that was enough to spur me to built a little metal kit of the U.S.S. Arizona thats been laying around since last Christmas. I've been very busy trying to keep the Admiral happy, so have not made further progress on my long term build (Wasa) - so I found some You Tube sites with tips for the Arizona (and other metal models as well), and it looked like something I could actually FINISH in a day. The caveat on this model is the SMALL scale - 1:1325 - based on a 608' prototype shrunk down to 5.51" long! The Arizona was built in
  6. The Revell kits included some scale figures of crewmen. Ever consider placing a few on the model to give the viewer an idea of her large size? Most models of sailing ships under sail are devoid of crew - almost like 'flying dutchmen' ...
  7. Hmmm ... Injection needles are hollow, and different gauges of needles are graduated by size and 'bore'. Instead of just using brass inserts for the gun barrels (which is a great idea on its own), one could cut the length needed from a stainless steel hypodermic needle with a Dremel cut-off wheel. This would fit right into the hole bored with the same size needle, but instead of being solid brass, it would be a stainless steel gun barrel with a genuine bore. How cool would that be? Fair sailing, Johnny
  8. Somewhere in the past I saw a VERY hard tree nut (something like golf ball size, or a little larger) that was touted as a substitute for ivory for small carvings and turnings. Maybe that could 'ring a bell' for some, and perhaps there are modern compounds that are 'ivory substitutes' that could also be cut, carved and turned.
  9. I pre-bent a plank (more or less) so that the final positioning would not take much force to hold it in position. Then I mixed a little 2-part "3 minute" epoxy with my index finger on the end of apiece of wood (door shims are great for this), applied epoxy to the contact points, wiped off my finger (a rag or the underside of a desk would do) then used 'finger clamps' (yup, prestidigitation) to hold the piece in place for three minutes while watching TV or listening to music. Nothing ever came loose. Titebond is also used for parts made to fit into or against each other ... the semi-set time
  10. If drawings are available, they can be scaled to the size desired to make paper templates. Then the modeler can cut them on a jig saw. As has been said, the correct hull lines are the starting point for any type of model. The one shown earlier (1:96 Cutty based) without yards is very interesting, as it can be placed on a narrow shelf, and doesn't require a case (with an occasion spray of 'dust off'). I'm considering mounting yards that are turned at a significant angle (without sails) so the yard arms wouldn't extend beyond the width amidship.
  11. Hand sawing and hand sanding don't present a problem in my basement shop as the sawdust produced is not that great a volume and it tends to fall to the floor or work surface where it can be swept or shop-vacuumed up ... just watch out for small parts that may be near. Power tools are another matter, so my portable bandsaw, table saw and belt sander are located in the garage - where they can be moved outside to the lawn adjacent to the driveway. The dust blows around and settles in the grass. A small Dremel jig saw is 'in between' in messiness if not cutting much, so I use it in the shop for
  12. You can 'fill in' the voids between the bulkheads with balsa, then 'fair' the entire hull by sanding (or trimming, then sanding). This will make planking much easier. The deck can be lightly sanded by hand to remove any unevenness where planks join. After scribing 'joints' that are staggered, it should look OK.
  13. Kerf width (directly related to sawdust production) should be kept too a minimum, and thinner blades take less effort to remove material. Yet thin bandsaw blades have a tendency to 'wander' a bit unless highly tensioned on a machine made for cutting thin pieces. A favorite of mine has been a 60 tooth 7 1/4" diameter carbide table saw blade with teeth (2.6 teeth per inch) that are a mere 1/16" wide. The alternating off-set adds a little to this, but it cuts smoothly and easily - as long as the feed rate is on the slow side. I've found these blades under a variety of trade names in hardware
  • Create New...