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Snug Harbor Johnny

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    Southeastern Pennsylvania
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  1. Ach so ... Ausgezeichnet !! Something useful for most any late clipper (and earlier). On small models I used to tie a stay and then continue it, but on large enough models something that looks like a bee or sheave is in order. I too have much to learn. BTW, the 'Glory' postings have been of great interest to many and are definitely among the 'hot' topics on the forum. Bravo!
  2. Your images show a couple interesting aspects concerning the life boats and their placement. (The names of three of the life boat and their dimensions are noted in my posting to the 'review' of the OcCre Endurance kit.) On the starboard side, the small transomed lifeboat is forward, and one of the double-ended lifeboats in astern. On the port side, the large transomed lifeboat is astern and other photos show the second double ended lifeboat (likely the David Cairn used by Shackleton for his rescue effort - since they took it down in the photo) carried forward. One could really do these small craft justice by modifying them to conform to the known dimensions ('busting' them as 'mini-kits'). They had a slight upwards curve toward bow and stern - easily achievable by fixing the strake under the gunwale first with this curve, then planking downward to the keel. The gunwales would appear more to scale if they were thinner (using the kit supplied gunwale as a template over thinner stock of better wood), and they would bend to the curve fore and aft easier and glued into place. I plan to equip mine with oars, unstepped mast(s) as applicable, rolled sail(s), rope and other supplies they likely had. As seen on other builds, the ribs above the footlings can be replaced by more and thinner internal ribs. Shackleton's boat was well photographed and now on display in a museum. I note that it received extensive modifications by the crew before they set out on the hazardous sea voyage, and many of those are photo-documented. Ergo the two same-sized double-ended life boats should appear as they did before being stranded in the ice. The two transomed crafts served as vital winter huts for most of the crew. The most important and effective enhancement to the OcCre kit (in my opinion) is with the railings. I've obtained correct sized 3-D (turned by miniature automatic Swiss lathe) stanchions from Cornwall models - including the ones forward having a hole for the single rail, and the far more numerous twin-rail stanchions. The are bulbous where the rails pass through, and have cylindrical bases to better mount them on the gunwales/deck edging. I'll have to make a scale plan view marking each location, then determine the exact spacing needed for discrete 'runs' of railing. Then these distances will be drilled in a straight line on a wooden holding jig, railing passed through entirely straight - then each joint will be soldered with a mini propane torch and thin circuit board resin core solder. I've worked in this medium before and as long as not too much heat is used the joining will come out very well. Then each 'run' of railing will be formed either with bends or gentle curves as needed to conform to the plan view. The formed rails will have the very bottom of the stanchions daubed with gunsmith's inletting black so an exact series of 'dots' will be transferred to a piece of wood to serve as a drill jig (drilled through on a drill press to insure perpendicularity). The jig will exactly fit over the required area of the model, then the pilot holes (slightly smaller the the stanchion ends) will be hand drilled into the model squarely. I'll remove any remaining inletting black from the railing runs, degrease then paint the railings white. They can likely be assembled on the model snugly enough without glue, or a tiny amount of slow setting glue can be pre-inserted into the pilot holes with a fine probe prior to final assembly of the railings. The railings were a distinctive feature of the Endurance (as they were also on the Aurora, the 'sister ship' to the Endurance that headed to the opposite side of Antartica to pick-up the team that was suppose to traverse the continent). Enhancing this feature will greatly improve the model. Dogs were a key part of the venture (they finally learned this from Amundsen - first to reach the Pole), and special dog runs were constructed on the Endurance that all have to receive railings on either side. Indeed, the dogs insured the survival of the crew ... just not in the way anticipated. Smooth sailing ... Johnny
  3. 'Just love your fairing technique ... running stringers at different angles and taking the 'long view', since the eye can see any 'wobble' in the line. I'm learning all sorts of techniques and tips from different builds so when I get into the next ship I can do a better job of it. Slatki kak sacha. Spasiba ! ... Johnny
  4. Steven, your build log is a tonic since I think back to my 14 year old self trying to tackle the first edition of the Billings Wasa in 1:100 ... The solutions you show are instructive, as well as many ideas and techniques seen in other builds. I'm likely to incorporate many forum methods over the winter in what will be the best 'compromise' build of my dusted-off project - pictured in a log I started after finding MSW. I'm happy to consider this sort of work as an art form one learns as one goes. Fair weather ! Johnny
  5. 'Just love the boat - the thought you put into it shows.
  6. Now I can see how the planking was done ... so whatever goes inside rib-wise or thwart-wise is an installation process - plus whatever else in the way of oars, mast, rigging, etc. Very nice! I'd like to 'improve' (bust?) the ship's boats of the Endurance (actually I'll build them first as practice), since we have exact measurements on three of them (the fourth was the same as Schakleton's lifeboat) and many photographs. There was a recent post on improving ship's boats for HMS Victory, where the assembly ribs were removed and replaced by more scale-like boat ribs - along with thin footlings, scale gunwale (with grain going in the right direction) and a variety of accouterments on hand in such boats. Each boat also has a graceful upward curve to the stem and stern (not sure of the correct term) - and that might be done best by installing the plank below the gunwale first to establish the curve - them go on planking downward (tapering planks as needed). Taking the time to do a better job on details such as these will greatly add to the appearance of the model as a whole. Johnny
  7. I read an article on the 'Jesus boat' recovered in Galiliee ... is this the same boat as the one in this thread? The boat in the article in Biblical Archeology Review showed the the strakes were composed of many oddly shaped planks (some of them short) that were fastened together with lashings passed through severely made holes in the plank edges where they abut. The whole thing looked like a big 'jigsaw puzzle'. The article suggested that valuable wood resourced back them was used with a minimum of waste ... it reminded me of some Inca stonework where all the oddly shaped blocks were fit together so as to remove a minimum amount of material, yet be snug against each other. Johnny
  8. I've learned that epoxy, like CA, goes bad after a while on the shelf - especially at room temperature. It's a good idea to buy new epoxy for a given build, and store epoxy (and CA) in the freezer (in a ziplock bag). Date the bag and still discard after 1 year (a rule of thumb).
  9. I've found that old kits - sometimes incomplete/damaged or partially built can be found in flea markets or garage sales at a bargain price. These can be good sources of wood, parts and supplies useful to enhance current builds or to scratch build. Some old kits have good planking for those who don't want to do a lot of sawing (very dusty) or buy new stock by mail. Other items may not be as useful, so its sort of a 'grab bag'.
  10. Gosh, I'd not heard the term settee (sail) before, so I Googled it and Wikipedia 'characterized' it (with illustration) as a lateen-like sail with the 'front corner cut off' to make a quadrilateral sail. hen I looked at the tombstone in question again and can plainly see that the front (downward) end of the sail exhibits this quadrilateral form - that is, there is a short vertical edge of sail below the end of the yard ! By George, you've got it ! (say I). The 2nd century tombstone sure seems to depict the settee sail design - the same one shown in the 5th century mosaic (and Wikipedia). The earlier work is a pretty good work piece of art rendered in perspective (note the difference in the sizes of the figures and the receding prow of the boat). This suggests that the settee came first (whose basis is a modified square sail), and the lateen evolved from that. How cool is that? Johnny
  11. Of course, the tombstone image may be an artistic device to 'fit' the sail into the space limitations on the piece. A square sail wouldn't fit if the yard was perpendicular to the mast in this apparently unique example. Opinions will vary, and the way the lateen was 'invented' may have been by tipping the yard down toward the bow while bundling the corner of a square sail at the for end of said yard.
  12. Your process for removing the bulky kit 'frames' after planking, then replacing them with appropriate wood strips vastly improves the ship's boats ... something that I have been pondering with the OcCre Endurance kit I have yet to build. It has four boats also - two double-ended life boats that (from photos) are apparently of the same design (the James Caird used by Shackleton survives and is on display in England), and two others with different dimensions and transoms (measurements and photos are available, but theses boats did not survive). If the kit is built 'out of the box' per instructions, the results are good enough at the intermediate level, but I'd like to go the extra mile and modify wherever practical to get closer to the original ship and its equipment. Your 'tutorial' will greatly help me when I tackle the project (however, I'm waiting to see how a couple of forum builds turn-out on this new kit - learning in the process). After doing better ribs, I'll make a more appropriate gunwales, and equip the boats with stowed oars, mast(s) and sail(s), rudder gear (where applicable) rope and supplies. Thanks mate! Johnny
  13. That's first class work, Keith - and a great option for stanchions with railing!
  14. I overlooked an important feature of the new kit ... the etched (or lasered) brass stanchions for the railings. They happen to be pretty flat, while the originals were cylindrical with bulged joints where the horizontals went through. I found some suitable 3-D brass stanchions in the component market on line, but the the cost with shipping (about 80 double-rail verticals, and about 16 with one rail) would exceed $100 - more than 1/2 the kit cost ... some upgrade. If cost is no object, then OK - so let's look at the provided stanchions more closely. Below a flare at the base of the flat upright, there is a 'spike' to go into the wood of the model. (Obviously a cylindrical sub-base would be much better.) To prevent a tendency to 'wobble', a fillet of glue (epoxy?) on either side of the stanchion would be needed to secure the flat ones with the kit. The 'out of the box' construction uses rigging rope as the horizontals, so care is needed not to stress the stanchions while 'rigging' with rope ... but then then the original ship had metal guard rails (everything painted white). Trying to 'thread' wire will be difficult indeed. If one purchased 3-D uprights, then the best way for every 'run' of railing would be to determine the exact spacing of the verticals (and they vary), make a holding jig for that spacing, then run straight brass railings through everything and spot solder with fine circuit board solder. Then the 'run' would have the bends or curves applied per a plan view (1:1 drawing needed), the locations to drill pilot holes 'dinked' into the deck using the formed railing itself ... then the soldered run of railing would pop into the drilled holes and the soldered nature of the railing would resist deformation and be relatively strong. OK, so why not make a jig to hold the flat stanchions at the required spacing configuration, run correctly sized brass wire (rod) through and solder at all the joins in the same way? The result would look better than using rigging rope, would be stronger as well (due to the soldered joints) and would resist casual deformation - one could tie things to the railings (as was done in history) ... and would not cast another $100 plus dollars. Johnny
  15. There is a log underway (the first) for the OcCre Endurance by HakeZou, and I'm following his build first before doing much more. I may work on a bash of the lifeboats to make them conform to the photos of the three used in the survival/rescue part of the expedition - as well as making better sails (there are a couple of posts on these topics I made elsewhere). Dealing with sundries like blocks, deadeyes, serving shroud lines and/or making my own scale rope might do as well. Hmmmm - might be like producing a 'deluxe' version of the kit.
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