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Snug Harbor Johnny

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  1. Want to see an ancient Greek Solar System earth-centered model? Try Googling the Antikythera Mechanism and see what comes up. There have been reproductions of this incredible device that account for all observed lunar and planetary motions as seen from Earth. The main 'flaw' is that the models accuracy for Mars can be off at times by as much as 30 degrees, The other planets are very close and the moon is 'spot on'.
  2. The 1956 repair cost of $210 is equivalent to about $2,500 today. Since the failures in the interim are similar to the earlier failures, and due to the deterioration of the oldest (original?) rigging left on the model (reportedly apt to crumble into bits if touched) - perhaps the best restorative efforts should focus on a more secure attachment (reinforcement by unseen drilled wire?) of the parts apt to break in future, as well as replacing all rigging with durable material (not sure exactly what that should be). I'd expect that an investment of $2,500 today in a 'longer-term' fix would be a
  3. Ahoy, mates! Well I've had the benefit of some feedback, and I've decided to take the plunge (walk the plank?) and try to cobble my old (and 'dated') BB kit to more closely resemble the 1628 Wasa known today, thanks to the amazing amount of original material recovered and preserved (95% of what is on display in Stockholm) and the unsurpassed conservatorship of marine scholars. That means, yes, taking the route of cutting away the forecastle deck on the model. As mentioned before, I don't fault the manufacturer since the ca. 1970 kit was based on very limited data compared to what is known
  4. Ahoy, sir!  'Noted the title change (your privilege, of course), yet perhaps the new scale of 1:150 might mislead some observers.  Billings did not put a scale on the drawing of their original kit - at least I have not found one.  The real Wasa is said to have a 226' "sparred" length (including bowsprit).  Deducting about 60 feet for that ponderously jutting affair leaves about 166' for the hull.  My model's hull length measures 19", or 1.58 feet.  When multiplied by 105, the result is 169.5' ... those figures seem to jive, even though it isn't a common ratio modeled - just a 'calculated' one.

     

      I'm glad to have found out about Model Ship World, as it represents a smorgasbord of information on all aspects of the ship modeling hobby.

    1. ccoyle

      ccoyle

      Hello. The scale in the title should be whatever the kit states, or, if you have worked out a different scale, what you believe the scale to correctly be. You might want to discuss this issue in your build log, which would eliminate any of the confusion you fear might creep in. If you ever find that you need to correct the scale in the title, you can do so by clicking the three dots in the upper right corner of the first post; this brings up a menu that includes the option to edit. You can actually edit any of your own posts, but titles can only be edited from the first post in the thread.

       

      Cheers, and thank you for your kind comments!

      CDC

  5. 'Seems the Wasa has had several 'periods' of scholarship. In the early days after she was raised, Billings put out a kit where they made a stab at 'filling in the blanks' (and there were many then) - perhaps influenced by another Wasa built a century later and their own version of the second Norske Love (also 18thc.) ... there very one I'm trying to rectify now (which makes me glad I didn't do more work on it since th e70s). As more pieces were recovered, preserve and fit together in a giant 'jigsaw' puzzle, more correct versions came out and a common opinion was that the original Wasa had a
  6. As Kirill4 noted, the lines are different - but that is how the 'old' (first issue) Billings kit was, and as teen in the 70s I didn't know any better than to try and follow the plans provided with the kit. (My Dad gave it as a gift, presumably to keep my busy - which it did for some time.) In the intervening decades Billings radically changed and upgraded their Wasa kit as a wealth of information became available. I have a 'legacy' situation and will try to cobble things to be more like the original, ... 'warts and all'. There was indeed another 'Wasa' launched a century later
  7. Ahoy Popeye! Thanks for the reply. I opened the box on the Fair American and conclude that it was likely under the water damaged BB Vikingskibbe box. All the plywood for the hull is Really warped ... of course, the pieces can be copied on new stock, as well as increasing the number of bulkheads. However, there is insufficient drop in the keep going aft, per drawing of a nearly identical ship Andrea Doria of the same period . It seems that they were built on the ways so the keel drops at the angle of the ways fro launching but the deck (and waterline) are level. There may be some improveme
  8. Ahoy Popeye! 'Glad to see your work on this build. I inherited the SAME kit from my father, and I remember quite a few years ago that he had the hull planked and ready for the deck strips to go over the false deck, but somehow in the 'cleanup' some well-meaning people did in his workshop after he passed, the hull was never found and may have been discarded. So I have the box with mast/spar materials, fittings and stuff ... That's just as well since I don't want to make a 'slaver' - or at least a kit that has been identified as such for a long time. I DO have an intact Steingraeber kit for
  9. Ahoy ! ... I've been doing more homework the past couple weeks, and I've gained more insights (and some 'aha' moments) concerning how to proceed on my 70s version Billings Wasa (original issue) previously pictured. The planking is mahogany, a wood often used by BB back them - and is harder to get these days. An inherited BB kit of a Vikings Skibbe (same vintage, and an improved version is now called the Roar Edge) also uses mahogany for the strakes - but the outlines are merely printed on veneer, as are all the other parts on plywood ... everything would have to be carefully cut out individ
  10. Crikey, you're taking the 'kit' to a whole new level. What was in the box were resources to make a model as good as 'scratch built'. Makes sense - why re-invent the wheel?
  11. I have crafted several 'heirloom' pieces of furniture made of Honduran mahogany, and the only finish I considered was a traditional French Polish with shellac - and I dissolved my own dry orange shellac flakes in Ethanol, but if you can find Zinnzer orange shellac in an unopened can not more than a year old it will do (they use methanol as the solvent). It takes weeks to slowly build and level enough layers (with a lint-free cloth bag containing absorbent material, then abrading with rottenstone or 600 grit paper when each application has had a day or two to cure) to gain what is known as cha
  12. Titebond (or any yellow 'carpenter's glue) is time proven, but there is a cure time - and parts that don't stay by themselves need to be clamped or otherwise secured (like tying). CA (the 'medium' viscosity type) is quick, but it can stick to fingers like crazy, and still penetrates wood and 'seals' it - leading to the staining and surface appearance problems noted by many in the forum. For holding down planking (pre-conditioned for a place on a hull) with the 'finger clamp' method, I have used 1-minute (or 3-minute) epoxy successfully. Just a wee dab of part A and part B from their respect
  13. Zinc based alloys (sometimes called 'pot metal') can be first painted with zinc chromate wash primer before applying a regular metal primer. Die cast (1950s and earlier) model locomotive (Lionel, Marx, etc.) were of zinc. Lead or (currently) tin based alloys are soft and easily bendable - a 'scratch test' in an inconspicuous place can be an indicator. Zinc alloys are 'tougher' and less bendy, with a higher melting point than the former types.
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