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  1. I think you are right. I might remove quite a bit of it so the effect is toned down
  2. All considered I am really chuffed with the results so far. I have removed the bottom layer with a makeup wipe exposing a lovely worn and brown patina which is shockingly exactly what I was after. Question is now should I leave the top band of green patina. The sealant will reduce the effect somewhat regardless. So thoughts, leave the band or remove entirely what do you chaps think?
  3. Ten hours in and it is looking good, some areas mainly the keel hasn't corroded so much thanks to the vertical position. I am going to leave it overnight and start removing the salt residue tomorrow with any luck by this time tomorrow those areas will have darkened enough for me to apply a layer of sealant.
  4. Thank you, still a bit worried I will mess it up and have to start again. Slowly does it, with any luck I will be able to put a sealing coat on tomorrow.
  5. It has been six hours now and I have been misting the hull every hour bar the first three hours and it is coming along nicely. Once the sides have taken the green patina I will gently remove the salt from the bottom which should leave a dark tarnished look.
  6. I almost finished the sheathing last night but was one strip short of copper plates, finished it this morning. Before marking After marking Once happy I used cling film and tape to cover the exposed wood and then sprayed/misted the copper with a vinegar and salt solution (roughly 4 parts to 1 respectively) and left the hull in a fairly warm location to aid the reaction. This is hull after 30 minutes, the reaction has started. After about three hours the solution has dried and the reaction is
  7. So after running a few experiments I have finally come up with a decent process for the patina. I was then experimenting with rivet heads on the copper strips, I tried making a jig to stamp them in but I didn't like the effect. I purchased a pounce wheel with the thought of running down the strips before attaching them however I have found using the pounce wheel after the copper strips were attached gave the best results and was by far the easiest method.
  8. The cutty shark technically isn't pure copper plated, by the time they built it Muntz metal was used which is a copper alloy that has a golden colour to it. It is a copper zinc alloy which improved upon the benefits of copper plating and was much cheaper. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muntz_metal
  9. It turns out that the top band of copper plates have been painted with a anti fouling paint hence the video in the dry Dock. I wonder why they don't apply this to the rest of the copper? It seems like the copper has also being quite regularly replaced apparently in 1995 so that is 20 years of corrosion and they didn't replace the copper on the rudder in the 2015 restoration.... So realistic weathering of the hull depends on how old you want the hull to look? I think a band of green along the top and a dull brown for the submerged area would be
  10. This investigation by Humphry Davy suggest that a top band of green patina and a dull red in the water is what is expected. https://www.jstor.org/stable/107708?seq=1#metadata_info_tab_contents The USS Constitution might have been in the water for so long that the whole hull now had the green patina...? That doesn't explain why the top band still has a shine to it. Apparently before the latest dry docking where they replaced the copper the last time it was dry docked was in 1992 so I will try and find some pictures.
  11. Thanks chaps, I don't for a second believe that the movement would keep the copper bright, regardless it would be corroded by the sea water... Perhaps a moving ship would corrode at a slower rate? I have found a video of the USS Constitution being brought into dry Dock, interestingly it is the opposite of what I had imagined... The exposed copper has retained some shine and below it has a green patina? https://ussconstitutionmuseum.org/2015/05/28/constitutions-dry-dock/ Looks like I will need to continue researching.
  12. That looks great LucienL, I am still going for a green patina but only for the top two/three rows of sheathing the rest I was going to brown like yours. How did you achieve it, I was going to test a Baking Soda method?
  13. Hey chaps it has been an absolute manic few weeks at work so progress has been a bit slow. I was in the process of painting and attaching the strips, having no idea what the strips were I did a bit of research it turns out they are meant to represent the hammock stowage rails. Unfortunately I really didn't like Occre's interpretation of the the hammock stowage so I decided to throw away the strips and go my own way. I did a bit of research and I managed to get hold of a few images from a book on the the anatomy of the Beagle... This is there interpretation of the rail
  14. That shouldn't be a problem, the first attempt I wasn't aiming for a consistent patina. The second test should be more consistent and closer to what it would be like on the hull. I could paint it but I would rather have an actual patina.
  15. Test No. 2 This time I actually stuck them down overlapping as per the actual sheathing process, the first time they were simply held in place by one strip which allowed the backing material to soak up the salt vinegar solution and attack both sides. I think I might have to look for some thicker tape I can't imagine using this stuff on the hull it marks too easily.
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