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End Of The Line

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About End Of The Line

  • Birthday October 1

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  1. Funny story, I thought that I’d be able to bang out the rigging in a week or two, but the universe has a way of slapping you down. While trying to put our cat in a crate for a vet visit, I was on the receiving end of her displeasure. Though I cleaned everything well, the bites on my right index finger became infected. After a few days of worsening infection, I sought medical help. Long story short, after two rounds of antibiotics, a trip to the ER, and a surgery, the wound has been drained, and I’m on my way to recovery. Unfortunately, it is likely to be a while before I’ll have the dexterity
  2. I lost a week traveling, but I'm back to the Drakar. I'm going with shroud pins instead of the flying cleats, or whatever they're called, that came with the kit. I decided to laminate up some blanks, so the grain would follow the curve of the pins. My original plan was to build a mold for the curve, but it would have been time consuming to cut and mate such a tight curve for male and female halves. I decided to go the quick and dirty rout and it worked out. I steamed thin walnut veneer and clamped it into a tight U. After the curve was set, I applied glue and clamped everything together.
  3. I’m in awe at the level of detail you are achieving at such a small scale. It is equally impressive that you built the original model as a teen, and now get a chance to restore and improve by applying all you’ve learned since then.
  4. Cold blustery rainy days are perfect for some mead. Skoll! Your sail is looking great! Colors are striking. All anyone can do on the sails is gather the best information they can and make educated suppositions. Your reasoning g is sound and the results look good. I'm interested in seeing what you do with the diagonals.
  5. Made a bit of progress on the shields. Again, I'm keeping things simple, to keep the focus on the ship's lines. I sprayed the shield faces in a deep red. Then I used a leather punch to cut some boss sized holes in masking tape. Then I masked off the shield faces and sprayed the bosses black with a mist of brown to suggest rusted iron. The shields turned out pretty good. I still plan on dry brushing the rim to suggest leather binding. Some of the shield slipped through the openings in the shield racks, so I decided to glue on strips of basswoo
  6. The glue and water sizing helps. Plus, you want to make sure you press the edges of the tape down well, and peel it off immediately.
  7. I've been working on the sail, yard and mast. I sized the fabric with 50-50 white glue and water as the plans directed. then I glued the outside hems. I decided to keep things simple and went with a red and black sail striped as if sewn with vertical seams. The paint is thinned acrylic. I masked the verticals and painted both sides. The mottled appearance is a result of the paint soaking through the fabric. It does not look as pronounced to the eye as in the photo and adds a bit of texture that I like. I gave serious thought to adding strips for the diagonal reinforcements, but opted out. I
  8. Here's a quick update. I've been focusing on some of the small parts. For the oars, I built a jig to allow me to cut blade slots on my bandsaw. Then I sanded the profile in the shafts and got the oars stained and painted. The model will be displayed as if under sail, so the oars will be in the oar racks. I assume that on a ship at sea, they would have been secured, yet ready for quick deployment. My thoughts are port and starboard oars in their respective racks and bundled by length secure, but it would be fast to open a bundle and pass the oars to the correct st
  9. Those lines running from blocks at the end of the yard appear to be rigged double-purchase. The line runs from an attachment point high on the stern, through the block and the control end would be cleated off, or something analogous, at the operating end. They would introduce a 2-1 mechanical advantage, so pulling the control line would require half the force over two times the distance which might be required to swing the yard for running closer to the wind.
  10. I started working on the small part shaping the oar racks and assembling the trestles. The trestles were cut with the wood grain going across the upper arms. It would only be a matter be a matter of time before they broke, so I used some of the scrap planking plywood to provide linear reenforcement along the length of the arms. The additional thickness looks right to me, because they would have been constructed with a mortice and tenon joint to the top arms. The base of the trestle that straddles the mast fish was treated the same. I looked over the parts supplied for the s
  11. Got my shield rails installed and drilled the oar ports. One small detail. I used a riflers file to cut the small keyway that allows the oars to be shipped from inboard. It's a small detail but it makes me happy. Does anyone have any insights into the sails on these ships? I'm thinking ahead to that step, and this model confuses me a bit. The plans shows simulated diagonal seams. These diagonal seams appear to be represented on a number of the Gotland picture stones. I like the look, but I'm having a difficult time figuring out exactly what they represen
  12. Shields are looking great! do you plan to coatrack them with a varnish or something to fix the colored pencils and pastels to the surface? Fun you mentioned sail stitching, I'm trying to figure out the best way to proceed with my Drakkar.
  13. Nice! Thanks for posting your research. I had the same set of questions. I'm reluctant to put something on the model that I don't understand. I did notice that the english language build notes refer to the poles as swinging booms and the socket as swinging boom steps. Your research puts a lot of flesh on those bones.
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