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Nipper

NRG Member
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About Nipper

  • Birthday December 19

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Canterbury, UK
  • Interests
    History of all kinds. politics, nature and wildlife, walking, novels, music, wine, voluntary work, and my wonderful wife. Not in that order.

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  1. Yes, that confirms what I was thinking. Thanks Chris. So I'll base my Irene on the Caldercraft Cruiser hull, and then I won't feel so bad about hacking it about! Nipper
  2. Now I'm really flung into doubt! My next build is going to be the Dutch brig of war "Irene" from Petrejus' book, and I was planning to buy a Caldercraft Cruiser for the basic hull ("Irene" was converted from HMS Grasshopper - a Cruiser class brig) and then scratch build or buy in (from Vanguard as much as possible) the fittings, and bits and pieces. Now I'm wondering whether Harpy would make a much better starting point, because it will have the up-to-date quality of Vanguard models, and the "legacy" kits from Caldercraft do not compare. But perhaps the hull shape of Harpy is too different from the Cruiser class brigs, as Chris intimates above. Chris - I'd be grateful for any thoughts. Nipper
  3. YES PLEASE CHRIS!! The Vanguard figures are so good, none better certainly at 1/64 scale. For those who like to crew their models, it would be wonderful to have figures sitting around, or leaning against the rail etc. etc., not just "in action" as if they are repelling boarders! Vanguard's fishermen, and the cook, are really good poses. Nipper
  4. Chris' s manual for Alert - see rigging Plan 15 - shows all three sets of bowlines belayed to the rail in front of the windlass. Nipper
  5. I found on my Alert that the spreadsail yard had a mind of its own until I fitted the braces. Congrats on your beautiful work - a real inspiration and a joy to follow. Nipper
  6. I don't want to clog up Johann's wonderful build log by continuing the comments on museums, but it is all about money. And the continual dumbing down, like you see on TV documentaries, where the makers are attempting to catch the interest of a generation used to stimulation from fast moving images. So many museums are having to reduce their displays and focus instead on eye catching and interactive exhibitions to catch the interest of young people - and let's hope they are successful in this. In some museums, I've found, a room that may once have been cluttered with many artefacts has been transformed to highlight a single object, surrounded by supporting information to truly bring out the object's importance and relevance to historical record. Done well, this is brilliant, as long as specialists like us have an opportunity to get into the storerooms to see what we want to find out about. And again, this is about money, in order to finance a museum's cataloguing, storing, and archiving costs. Nipper
  7. Kevin A tough decision but I agree with many of your followers above - it's the right one in order to give your loved family friend a chance to enjoy the remaining days. I'm sure you will make every one of them special. Nipper
  8. I love looking at your work OC, and I admire and agree with your pursuit of realism. It looks like you have abandoned the idea of representing the smoke from the firearms. Certainly, it is very hard to create smoke that is convincing. Also, if one is going to take realism to its full extent, one would have to include more than the smoke from the muskets and rifles. How to create the pall of smoke that would have been blowing over the whole battlefield, obscuring your beautifuuly painted figures?! Best to leave that to the paintings, like the one above of LHS. Nipper
  9. It's fantastic B.E. - no wonder you feel such a sense of achievement! I notice the sheathing from telephone wiring that you have used for the lanyards on the gunports. Doesn't that work well! That's another great idea I will borrow from you, if you don't mind. What thickness are the gunport lanyards - 0.20mm? Nipper
  10. Excellent idea Chris - so that a new generation of modellers will say, in 20 years' time, "I cut my teeth on Vanguard's Sherbourne" !! Nipper
  11. You have to do what works best for you, as we all do! I glued the front and back axles to one side of the carriage first, then painted all those plus the other, separate, carriage sides. Then I painted the barrels and when all was satisfactory I glued the assemblies together. Which worked best? I think I would prefer to paint the whole carriage assembly first rather than the two halves, but I definitely preferred not to have to attach the separate caps. The built in caps look neater to me but probably the whole job took a bit longer. Not that time really matters. You could make one of each method and decide which works best, before going on to complete them all. Nipper
  12. You're quite right! There is the same arrangement for the Sphinx. Chris has designed the built-in caps, so you paint them as you have guessed. Separate photo-etched caps are very fiddly! Nipper
  13. Hello Aa I've just discovered your build and I am fascinated by the story of Mars and by what your research has found. To me, this is the joy of ship modelling - following the historical records and using this to create the closest possible to an actual ship - brig in your case. In reading your log I've seen the book about the brig Irene, and I'm tempted to buy that book in order to build a model of her (Irene is my wIfe's name and we have family connections to the Netherlands!). I'm wondering what brig model might be the best to bash into an Irene. I had decided to build a brig once I've finished Sphinx ( I have tenuous ancestral family connections there too), but I think that Chris Watton's Speedy (which I had thought about being my next project) is too small to become an Irene. Nipper
  14. What a brilliant idea to make a template for fixing the depth guages! I have found glueing the little numerals really tricky on both my builds, so thank you for a solution for my next build. With the eyebolts, using a metal preparation before painting helps, but I've always had to do some touching up afterwards anyway. I hink it's more important to keep control of the glue than to worry about paint coming off. Nipper
  15. I've only just found your log and I'll now follow! What a great job you're doing on your first build. I've picked up your anxiety about doing the rigging, and I see that some members have given you some good hints and encouragement. I just want to say this: I found the rigging to be the most enjoyable and satisfying part of the whole build on my first boat - which was Chris Watton's Alert. I took ages, but so what? Like you, I have Petersson's book, and John Harland's Seamanship was also brilliant because I learned so much about how a sailing ship worked. I really enjoyed making the rigging as complete and realistic as possible and I relied heavily on the wonderful build logs here on MSW, especially Blue Ensign's. The information here on MSW gave me lots of ideas on stropping, whipping, seizing etc. So much so that I plan to do Speedy as my next build after I've finished Sphinx, and to build her in full sail. My satisfaction with the rigging came from learning so many new techniques and realising that, yes, I can do it! If you can do planking as well as you have done, then you'll have a breeze with the rigging! Nipper
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