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Tim Holt

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Everything posted by Tim Holt

  1. I have a pair of these which I quite like. They let me do pretty fine loops. Forewarned they aren’t cheap… Lindstrom RX7590 - RX Series Ergonomic Pliers - Round Nose - Fine Jaw - 4.72" L https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LNHMRS
  2. Love y'all's jokes, but I wish I could mute a few of the more popular off topic threads from the Latest Posts list. Any way to do that?
  3. I had thought of posting yesterday a link to one of @LFNokia's videos. He uses this same technique as @Thanasis showed with 2 loops in a figure 8 and mid seizing. It works well for a lot of variants on stropping a block, whether to an eye, a hook, to a yard, etc. Here's one of his videos where he goes over the approach...
  4. Interesting discussion about the types and sources of the wood used in the ship. Here's the link... https://theconversation.com/we-studied-the-tree-rings-of-the-batavia-shipwreck-timbers-they-told-us-much-about-global-seafaring-history-171495 The scholarly article goes into a lot more depth. It is at https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0259391 Here's one little quote that's intriguing...
  5. Thanks for the video Mark - quite nice to watch. Helps me with the "so what is the Hahn method?" question.
  6. Hi @algonzales94 I also have a lot of those kinds of planes and have used them quite a bit to make molding for hand-done furniture. I think from my perspective as a user of them who uses them for their purpose, fixing and correcting issues like worn down or missing boxwood sections is OK. It's like making a new blade for one that's been badly treated over the years. Restoring these planes to their ability to once again create unique and definitely not machine made moldings is a good thing. Better they be used and appreciated for their original purpose than tossed in a bin with missing parts and no sense of value in some antique store.
  7. Hey welcome and good to see another post of this model. If you follow this link -> https://modelshipworld.com/tags/Swift/ you will get a list of all the builds tagged for this kit. Lots of people have built it, some by the book (er kit), others with changes.
  8. Keith, try logging in from a different browser - e.g., if you use Firefox, open the site with Chrome, Edge/IE, or Safari. That helps determine if it's something on your side. You can also switch to "private window" mode as well since that mode shouldn't share much with the regular use mode. If it does work correctly on a different browser or in private mode, it doesn't necessarily mean it's an issue on your side but it does help track it down. It would very much be worth it for the site runners to contact Invision Community (the forum technology provider) for support on this, as well as the 200 response code issue. You've presumably paid for the forum so worth getting your money's worth perhaps.
  9. Ouch. That just gave me the chills to read it. Thanks for posting just the glove picture and glad it was manageable. I lost about 1/8” off the pad (print) of my thumb by a similar move. No gloves and was using a push stick, but I reached over the cut to stabilize the wood past the cut and brushed my thumb against the blade. At least like thumbprints, fingernails grow back. I also have stopped using gloves around any power tool after I got my glove caught in a drill press, which rapidly wrapped around the bit. I got to the power switch fast enough. But I did also get a foot switch after that.
  10. So you know how sometimes someone uses a ship term that's wrong, and the experts chime in to tell them, "Well actually..." Finally I get to do one of those. Hey we all get to be pedantic in some areas 200 response code is not an error. It is simply indicating the request was handled without issue, and the server has answered back "OK" to the request. Technically, it is defined as a "success status response indicating that the request has succeeded". In fact all response codes in the 200-299 range indicate success in the request (i.e, not error). Failures would normally return something from 400-499 (Client error response), or 500-599 (Server error response). Of course that doesn't mean the server didn't encounter an error and returned the OK response in error. That's my guess as a bona fide professional of what's happening. See the link below for a list of all response codes and how they are categorized. https://developer.mozilla.org/en-US/docs/Web/HTTP/Status
  11. Thanks. This is definitely my kit for experimenting and just trying things out. Hopefully methods a bit more refined or at least consistent for the next few.
  12. More rigging over the last week putting the gaffs and booms in place. It's really starting to look "shippy" indeed, and the end is in sight perhaps. A few pictures here of creating some blocks to attach to the main boom. I tried a little experiment with one by looping rope over a copper wire, then soaking it in CA glue. That created a nice little thimble-like loop for later attachment. The blocks by the way are from Syren Ship Model Company, the rope is from Ropes of Scale, and the seizing thread is very fine Veevus 6/0 fly tying thread. As I think I have mentioned before, I am not following the rigging plan as the original Artesania Latina kit specifies, but instead essentially following the Model Shipways Katy of Norfolk plans, as they seem much more realistic without the unrealistic shortcuts the AL model takes. Here's an overview of the model with gaffs and boom in place... And a closeup of the gaff halyards and mast base where the halyards are tied off... I went with hooks for most all the gaff rigging which makes installation and removal for convenience quite easy. For now none of the lines on cleats are glued - only tied down in proper cleat fashion. One other thing I did (which you can't see) is I put a short piece of wire into the jaw end of the gaffs and boom, which then goes into a hole screwed into the mast. That way the gaffs and boom will stay in place, and I am able to tighten the halyards without having the jaws just slide up the mast. It also lets me ensure the gaffs and boom align along the fore and aft line.
  13. My new thing now is to play the videos on my computer as I work on my kit. It’s nice and mood inducing. Really fascinating watching real planks go down. Makes it look easy!
  14. Tweezers - A small handheld device designed to launch small ship model parts suddenly to where the hell who knows where. See also Work Space Carpet.
  15. Work Space Carpet - A place to securely store small blocks, fittings, and other items dropped on the floor by accident.
  16. Well here's a new rabbit hole to fall down - thanks for sharing this!
  17. Thanks Moonbug. This is a kit my father had purchased probably back in the late 70's perhaps? He passed it on to me some time ago. Definitely some challenges with a simple kit like the old version, and definitely the design takes a lot of shortcuts. I've definitely have modified it a fair amount (especially deck layout and rigging), plus it's been a learning experience. I'm trying different things and learning some skills that I want to apply to some more detailed hand-me-down kits I have.
  18. One more positive to the lit magnifier on an extended arm... Not only can you move it and use as a desk lamp, you can also pivot it down towards the floor to help find those parts that decided to drop onto the floor and promptly become invisible.
  19. More rigging today, putting the traveler ring I made in place with inhaul and outhaul lines. I didn’t have the right setup to make a thimble (thin brass tube) so put the line around a piece of larger brass wire and used CA to get it to hold the shape. Probably several wraps to make it thicker would have been more visually correct. Then to the jib halyard, using line from Ropes of Scale and blocks from Syren. The hooks and traveler ring I madep using brass wire, blackened with Birchwood Casey. I’ve found it far more effective if I dilute it with water 50/50 and let it soak longer. At full strength the finish rubs off too easily. I also put 3 cleats at the base of the foremast, one of which is for the jib halyard. It definitely would have been easier to put the cleats on before I put the mast in place. Each has a little brass wire out the base to help align and hold. I’ve just got the lines tied off on the cleats for now. I will tighten and make permanent with a touch of glue at some point, but funny enough if you do it like a real cleat it holds pretty well. In the spirit of working forward to aft, the next task probably the gaffs, though the anchors might make sense now too.
  20. A while back I got a Vision-Luxo magnifier light on a 45" arm. It wasn't cheap but I am so glad now I bought it. It has good light, nice magnification, and the arm length is quite long. I often just leave the light on and push it up and use as an adjustable desk lamp, but then can swing it down when I want to use the magnifier. The LED has two intensities (not counting off), and will automatically turn itself off after 4 hours or so. The light doesn't give me headaches like some older fluorescent Luxo style magnifier lights did. Really I think what makes it is the 45" total arm length. It means I can have it clamped off to the side out of the way, but easily bring it over in place when I need it. Here's the Amazon link to the one I purchased -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SNGN43J/
  21. Very nice! Hopefully not too ambitious for the builder (name of ship joke) What was your finish approach to the deck? It looks like regular deck plank edge darkening, and then stain on the top? The final picture has a great "old wood" look to it.
  22. So the more I looked at those chain plates and deadeyes the more I disliked them. So here is round two… I also made the little brass wire jig to get the spacing right. Basically it’s just two wires soldered together in the middle, then the ends bent at a right angle and spread to fit the deadeye holes. And one set of shrouds done…
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