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Spaceman Spiff

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About Spaceman Spiff

  • Birthday 05/25/1969

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Savannah, GA
  • Interests
    Model building, metal detecting, fishing, golf...

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  1. Future floor polish (the acrylic kind) is the best. Can be brushed or airbrushed. It levels very well and provides an excellent base and reduces silvering. Also a great setter, too. Once is dry, it can take any covering.
  2. Great job! I thought about this kit, too. However, that engine and all the other white-metal pieces looks almost toy-like and having no life. Even if you are going for an unpainted look, every metal used wasn't the same exact color all the way through - the gun metal most certainly wasn't the same as used in engine as used in cowlings, etc. Paint/wash/drybrush/etc to bring things to life. I mean, why paint the engine mount (looks to be almost a WWII era interior green color - was that how the originals were painted or just something different?) and not the guns, engine, struts, etc.? Would really bring things to life and make it look like a real plane but without its skin. Great job on all accounts! I love it and don't mean to sound harsh...
  3. Jake's is awesome. I think I could just make a meal of those sweet corn nuggets! Good stuff. What part are you in?
  4. Welcome! Did two tours at Norfolk. I need to get back to Jake's BBQ! A lot of great people on this board. Welcome, again!
  5. Don't take your guns to town - Johnny Cash
  6. I have used a Crasftsman compressor for 10 years or so and use it with an Iwate HP airbrush. Never had any problems and does all I need it to. Heck, even used it air my vehicle tires, too!
  7. Hank and Joe and Me - Johnny Cash
  8. I mainly spray enamels with my Iwata but have used acrylics. I prefer to run 91% alcohol through my airbrush as this is great at getting acrylic out - especially the stubborn stuff. I have also heard that Windex works great, too. Now, enamels are a whole different beast. I run lacquer thinner through it when I am cleaning the airbrush. My Iwata only has a few parts so it takes like five minutes to disassemble, clean thoroughly, and reassemble. Pipe cleaners work great. It is also a good idea to use some oil made specifically for airbrushes on some of the parts. I know what some of you are thinking - won't that get into the paint the next time you use it? Maybe, but before I start painting I will always spray paint thinner through it just in case. Never had a problem. Never have sprayed oils, but I awlays use Humbrol's Satin Cote - which is a solvent-based varnish and thin it with lacquer thinner. Never a problem. It is my go-to for final coat on my models (never have built a wooden one). Now, for traditional varnishes - I have never tried it but know someone who sprays them using lacquer thinner and who says he never has a problem with it in his airbrush. I have never seen it used so I can't comment. Take it for what it's worth.
  9. Be sure to post some pics! As far as airbrushes go, there is a wide-range of makes and models, from single action to double action. From what I have seen, Badger and Iwata are some of the best. But of course, you get what you pay for. My personal setup is an Iwata HP BCR dual-action airbrush (dual action airbrushes make it much easier to do fine painting and detail work) and a Craftsman compressor. If you go the compressor route, get one that has an adjustable regulator that allows you use different pressures (this is very important for detail work). Practice, practice, practice!
  10. Cap, we always heard a variation - "Where you born in a barn?" My Grandmother would always say that - "Landsakes alive, were you born in a barn?"
  11. Minor update. With the new setup, I am unable to post pictures because I get the "upload failed" message. So, here is where things stand. I wasn't able to work on the hull and get that hump flattened out enough so the flight deck will lay down correctly, so I did some work on the island instead. No matter how I tried to sand the bottom of the island, it never would stand straight when positioned upright. I removed all of the PE doors from the sides and fitted sheet styrene around each side - I made one side a little longer than the other in order to get the island to stand upright. It had a slight lean which drove me crazy. Now, I just have to replace all of the doors and scratch some of the smaller stuff, and it will be ready. I then plan on adding all of the PE and painting it before attaching it to the flight deck. Sorry if the update wasn't exciting and pretty with pictures, but once I figure out how to add them I will go back and do so. Thanks for reading!

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