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Spaceman Spiff

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About Spaceman Spiff

  • Birthday 05/25/1969

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Savannah, GA
  • Interests
    Model building, metal detecting, fishing, golf...

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  1. I would like to say that model expo came through in a huge way. I humbly apologize for any negativity I may have caused. Admins please delete this thread. Thanks to model expo!!!
  2. Not sure if this is the right place to post this, if not then please move it to where it belongs. I finally started building my Gunboat Philadelphia and when I got to the bottom pieces (23S, 23P, and 24) I found they are of varying thicknesses and not usable. Last week, I contacted Model Expo using the online form (using the link given by a fellow member here) and even attached photos showing said parts. No response of any form. I sent an email to their modelexpo.parts email shown on their website and still no response. I can't move forward with the ship until I source the parts. Anyone have any other ideas? Or am I out of line posting here given no response or acknowledgement? Thanks for time and consideration. If my post is out of line, please delete it.
  3. The Suffering - Coheed and Cambria
  4. Why? Are you entering it for awards? Make that thing pop!
  5. Future floor polish (the acrylic kind) is the best. Can be brushed or airbrushed. It levels very well and provides an excellent base and reduces silvering. Also a great setter, too. Once is dry, it can take any covering.
  6. Great job! I thought about this kit, too. However, that engine and all the other white-metal pieces looks almost toy-like and having no life. Even if you are going for an unpainted look, every metal used wasn't the same exact color all the way through - the gun metal most certainly wasn't the same as used in engine as used in cowlings, etc. Paint/wash/drybrush/etc to bring things to life. I mean, why paint the engine mount (looks to be almost a WWII era interior green color - was that how the originals were painted or just something different?) and not the guns, engine, struts, etc.? Would really bring things to life and make it look like a real plane but without its skin. Great job on all accounts! I love it and don't mean to sound harsh...
  7. Jake's is awesome. I think I could just make a meal of those sweet corn nuggets! Good stuff. What part are you in?
  8. Welcome! Did two tours at Norfolk. I need to get back to Jake's BBQ! A lot of great people on this board. Welcome, again!
  9. Don't take your guns to town - Johnny Cash
  10. I have used a Crasftsman compressor for 10 years or so and use it with an Iwate HP airbrush. Never had any problems and does all I need it to. Heck, even used it air my vehicle tires, too!
  11. Hank and Joe and Me - Johnny Cash
  12. I mainly spray enamels with my Iwata but have used acrylics. I prefer to run 91% alcohol through my airbrush as this is great at getting acrylic out - especially the stubborn stuff. I have also heard that Windex works great, too. Now, enamels are a whole different beast. I run lacquer thinner through it when I am cleaning the airbrush. My Iwata only has a few parts so it takes like five minutes to disassemble, clean thoroughly, and reassemble. Pipe cleaners work great. It is also a good idea to use some oil made specifically for airbrushes on some of the parts. I know what some of you are thinking - won't that get into the paint the next time you use it? Maybe, but before I start painting I will always spray paint thinner through it just in case. Never had a problem. Never have sprayed oils, but I awlays use Humbrol's Satin Cote - which is a solvent-based varnish and thin it with lacquer thinner. Never a problem. It is my go-to for final coat on my models (never have built a wooden one). Now, for traditional varnishes - I have never tried it but know someone who sprays them using lacquer thinner and who says he never has a problem with it in his airbrush. I have never seen it used so I can't comment. Take it for what it's worth.
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