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Barbossa

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Everything posted by Barbossa

  1. Good luck with this challenging project. Google and to be more specific, Wikipidia show us an interesting image of a Wappen von Hamburg shipmodel emplaced in a church (?) Never understood why Corel did not use this model as a starting point to commercialize their kit.
  2. Hello, Better late than never, I came across your buildlog. Deck planking is clean and crisp, nice work !
  3. Related to the bathroom, installing "seats of ease" accordingly to period ships is no option, I presume ?🙂
  4. As all your previous builds, a real delight to follow although your last comment caught my uttermost attention : "Four months into the build.." : and the progress on the hull is more than obvious. It is amazing how much the quality of (some) brands of kits have improved, thus allowing both speed and workmanship. Most impressive.
  5. ... ( was interrupted) If I dare speaking so : the 1/64 scale is a very good compromise between size, difficulty, and detail
  6. Hello Dave, Well at first sight we can not ignore the evolution in the (plastic) kit market. Many of us remember the Airfix standards : 1/72 when WW II planes were involved and 1/600 for HMS Hood, Bismarck, etc...At present Trumpeter has the same ships on a 1/200 scale at our disposal, not to mention the 1/48 U-boat. Although 1/700 is still popular ( Aoshima, Fujimi, Revell,...) but many plastic ship brands seem to stick to the 1/350 scale. Worth mentioning : the PhotoEtch aftermarket. Wooden ships: I don't know as many (not all) Jean Boudriot monographs as well in the past as at present suggest a 1/48 scale. Be it in scratch building. Another thing is the choice of your model : a big ship (the obvious HMS Victory) in a 1/90 scale or an elegant schooner or chebec ( Occre Cazador ) in 1/60? Both are challenging : the line up of 3 impressive rows of guns or the extra detail a 1/60 and certainly a 1/48 scale might offer ? Talking about gunnery : IMHO, the rigging of the guns is probably more realistic in a large scale (1/48 => 1/64) and also more "doable" rather than in a1/90 or 1/100 scale. Sails ? Same story, I guess. Are you planning to build several ships ? Working in the same scale can be an advantage, but this is only me talking. My conclusion ( if I da
  7. You're welcome Mark. Thanks for all the likes. Oops : only now I realize an error related to the update . The correct reference of the AV Dark Grey color ( which I found the most suitable for the "hinges-job" ) is definitely AV 70.994 Dark Grey and not AV 70.862 ( Black Grey ) as the 3rd pic on the first update erroneously suggests.
  8. It’s been a while Coppering is a bit time consuming. The plates were purchased through Victory Amati. This is a lesson learned : from aesthetical point of view I should have applied them instead of those supplied in the box of my previous build ( HMS Diana Caldercraft ). It’s money well spent. The shiny look is rather a consequence than a purpose : I had to remove the sporadically traces of CA and the most delicate steel wool leaves no scratches, although it is recommendable to preliminary test this method with copperplate leftovers. Be cautious. I guess there are probably better ways ( chemical ?) to remove traces of CA-glue on copperplates : feel free to reply, other members might benefit from this topic. The strip that covers the transition between the black painted wale area and the copperplates is from cartridge paper that received a coat AV 71.036 Mahagony-paint. The choice of the mahogany color ? This matter was submitted to the aesthetical taste of Mrs. Barbossa. The idea of the paper strip is not by the book but very convenient and pleasing to the eye. The main reason : paper allows cutting in all forms and shapes which might prove handy when bow and stern area curves are involved. Most of all : the awkward cut copperplates alongside the waterline are not visible. Concerning the rudder and especially the hinges that support and connect the rudder to the keel I also went for the paper solution. I covered a part of a sheet with AV 70.994 Dark grey. Flipped to the other side where I drew a sort of a grid. The next step reminded me of kindergarten ( long ago ) : gently insert a hole with a pin at every crossing to create a sort of an embossing effect to simulate the presence of the nails. Then cut the strips and apply with epoxy. I would not recommend CA glue for this operation as the latter allows few possibilities for corrections. I have special embossing metal sheets at my disposal but I could not obtain a clean cut with a Stanley knife for the small strips. The pins that connect and secure the hinges are from tooth prick extremities that also were painted in AV 70.994 Dark grey. I know there are probably better ways of proceeding mastered by experienced scratch builders : but the here-above described approach was doable and most of all : it was fun. Next move ? After finishing the hull, I’d like to insert a little break. I must admit I underestimated the time consuming element of this project ( Job + family life ) compared with previous kit projects. Another argument : the evolution in the kit market ( e.g. HMS Sphinx ) I wonder if this gem were to be released a few years earlier to my current project, I ever would have started it in the first place. Nonetheless, I intend to finish what I started, be it in several episodes. ( waiting on the shelf : HMS Pegasus, HMS Speedy and a whole collection of WW II airplanes ) See for more pics
  9. Aside from the high level of your weathering skills... this is so huge. I always thought 1/72 U-boat or US-Gato submarines released by Revell were maximum size but this is a another league.
  10. Hi Mark, The next time better and re-learn sounds very familiar to me : I've lost count how many times it occurred to me. However, as mentioned here-above, painting & sanding should do the trick. Carry on.
  11. Nice work, Patrick. A masterpiece is in the making. Our holidays began end of August. Just came back from a little city trip to Antwerp. Always recomendable ! Went to "Modelbouw Baliën "- nearby Borgerhout and I felt like Alice in Wonderland. How scarce such shops have become.
  12. Great Job, Jonathan Don't you worry about the historical accuracy. Much has been said if whether or not San Felipe is a fictitious ship . The most important is that you're acquiring tons of weight in experience by tackling this kit. And she's so good looking. Keep up the good work. (finished my specimen in 2006)
  13. Thanks Patrick + all the likes. Next episode : further details on the bow section + adding the copper plates. Purchased ( long time ago ) the necessary number of copper plates through Victory Amati. Regarding my previous build ( HMS Diana) , I still regret I carried out this operation using the copper plates supplied in the box : lesson learned. Take care.
  14. The additional ornament on the stern gallery was another story. As the curve was delicate, I splitted it up in 2 halves. Next pics show my woodcurving skills are limited, less to say equal to zero The decoration strips under the window are an assembly of 2 styrene strips : a half round 1,5 mm and a 1x2mm strip
  15. ....But I felt unhappy, so what do you do ? Of course...you rip it off and start all over again. So I took the opposite way : 2 small paper strips upon a black rail. Much better.
  16. For present update, I shifted my attention towards the bow section. Decoration rails, first attempt : Manaufacturing a relief-shape into a curved strip was a bit tricky, thus I avoided this roadblock by adding a black paper strip in the center....
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