CAd My Fingers

Max I haven't shot any ME paints yet. Tamiya takes about a 50/50--I use their thinner--mix, with a higher psi. Watch your gun tip--acrylics tend to foul more than enamels as well; I periodically give it a wipe with a q-tip when I'm spraying and then a good cleaning when I'm done. If you have spare ME paint, your testing hopefully will work out the bugs before you do your ship. If you have to use more thinner, go for it. Try to shoot when it's a cool day (during summer I either shoot in the morning or late evening), because more thinner can sometimes cause paint to dry before it hits what you're attempting to paint, so distance from gun to object is important. Also, more thinner may mean you'll have to shoot several coats--but if the paint is shooting well, that's usually not a big bother, plus multiple coats often look better. Hope you didn't mind the earful, Max--guns are tricky at 1st, but once you get it down, hopefully you'll enjoy using them! Great price, Don--congrats! Sorry, I can't offer an opinion or help on the brand you won--never have used 'em. However, much of what I've mentioned to Max will apply. A clean gun is crucial, figuring out psi for different paints is trial & error--enamels usually shoot lower than acrylics; same goes with the thinning. Good luck and enjoy your new setups, fellas! Jay

Here's a link to a science forum that offers a slew of suggestions: http://www.thenakedscientists.com/forum/index.php?topic=5283.0 Jay

Looking forward to seeing it shot with paint, Michael--great color choice! Figured the rain was keeping you from working on Maria as well--am enjoying watching that gem unfold! Jay

Max, they're great--like everyone else has said, you got a great deal! One thing to keep in mind, be sure to clean it well--esp. the needle--after each time you use it. Also, shooting different types of paints (i.e., acrylics, enamels, and specialty paints--metallics, for instance) requires some trial and error. For example, with acrylics, I find that I need more thinner and a bit higher psi with the gun than with enamels. I recommend practicing on scrap wood and etc. before you do something that matters to you so that you can learn your particular gun and its idiosyncrasies. Now that I'm used to my Iwota, I totally love using it. Enjoy and have fun: Iwotas are awesome guns--congrats on a your great purchase! Jay

Paddy, S. Coleman's suggestions are spot on. I've painted over with acrylics, stuff where I've used Danish oil or oil-baed Minwax. If you can, don't stain that area but if it can't be avoided or etc., then make sure the oil-based finish has completely dried, then give the area that you're going to paint a light sanding with some fine grit sand paper. Jay

Happy Birthday--hope you have a great day! Jay

Not sure what I'll use yet, Joe. Will do some forum research to find out likes and dislikes, along with talk to a few folks. It'll be a while yet before I start going down the scratch road--still need a few big-ticket tools; also want to get more building skills under my belt using kits before I tackle a scratch project. At this point, I'm building and gathering resources and setting intentions for where I want to go . Jay

Tom, many thanks! I just scrolled through the lifting and lofting section and saved the practicum. Bodnar's instructions and images look great; between him and Chapelle, I think I'll grasp the drafting. Reading, seeing images, and doing will be how I'll "get" it. Once I fully understand the process, doing it in a software program should'nt be too brutal--then it'll just be learning software rather than both. Thanks for your help fellas--most appreciated! Jay

Thanks, Russ --will order it through ABEBooks tonight. Just purchased a hardback copy for $10--love ABE! Jay

Mark, duh!--I totally missed those resources; thanks for pointing them out and the link! Jay

I am looking for books or articles that clearly describe--and even better if there are accompanying good photos or drawings--how to lift from plans and then loft that info. into drawing, or other similar, software. I eventually want to go to the dark side and scratch build; right now I am thinking that I'd like to break into that area of model shipbuilding by starting with converting a couple of solid hull kits to POBs. Currently I have both volumes of Underhill's Plank on Frame books, but found him a bit difficult to follow due to the lack of photos/pics--I just learn better on some things when I have visuals and this is one of those areas for me. I just found and last night purchased reasonably priced copies of Hahn's Colonial Schooner & Ships of the American Revolution but have no idea yet of how in-depth they go into lifting and lofting. Also, given when both of these were written, I doubt these go into translating lifted data into software; however, I don't think that part of the process will be hard to figure out as long as I clearly understand the process of how to lift and loft. Since a lot of both new and used model shipbuilding books are available to me only through the Internet, it's a drag buying a book sight unseen and then discovering it doesn't contain the information I'm really after. To avoid some of that, I figured I throw my question/request out here on the forum and see what is recommended. Thanks for your time, help, and suggestions! Jay

Wefalck, that's a great suggestion and solution for the Proxxon! You're spot on about the spindle size--it's difficult to see how it's sitting on a reference surface. Joe, I didn't know they offered that discount--thanks for the heads up!

Wefalck I was wondering about this in relation to the vise I'm using, since it's what I use for most of my work. Thanks, your post answered my questions. I think I'll use a rod in a collet for a quick check, and it sounds like the technique will be fairly accurate for most of my drilling work with the Proxxon. I eventually want to purchase a decent milling setup, but for now, the Proxxon will work for most of what I'm currently building (and planning to build in the near future). The next major tool purchase will be a lathe (am looking at Sherline's 17" (~ 43 cm) bed model). Jay

Wefalck, you're right, both methods are very simple--much less complicated than the picture I had in my mind; now I completely understand your technique with the drill bit and block--thanks! Jay

Joe, your CAD work is looking really nice! Am eventually going to go that route myself. I bought a few solid hull kits that I want to convert to POBs--those are sort of how I am planning to cut my teeth on scratch building. @ Wefalck: Would you post a picture or two of your tramming setup, please? I think I know how you're setting your tramming gear up, but a photo's usually worth a 1000 words.

Between this build and your restoration/redesign project, I'm thoroughly enjoying seeing your excellent craftsmanship, Michael!

Thanks, Joe--I'll definitely give you a shout! . Sounds like you're getting your CNC setup going, wow, CNC mills and lathe setups are awesome--you'll be able to do some really amazing stuff with your new rig! Jay

Joe, I'm going to give it a google today, thanks as I had no idea that there were devices for tramming mills (last time I used one was over 20 years aog). The device you posted looks sweet and it's small--perfect for hobby setups! Now I just need to find a small center finder for drilling dowels on their sides (found some but they look too big for a mini drill press). Jay

Darren, your technique is awesome! Yep, totally understand what you described--simple and effective. Am going to bend some piano wire stock that I have and give it a try today. Joe, that's a great tool! It's been years since I worked on a mill; learned how to tram 'em using old school techniques--getting the column right was the hardest and most time consuming. Am looking at Sherline mills, once I take the plunge, that's the 1st tool I'm going to buy because tramming a mill is a bear. I think the mini will work for the x-axis on my Proxxon but it maybe too wide for the y-axis (will have to read the tool's specs to know for sure). Thanks fellas, appreciate your taking time to lend a hand--these are great suggestions! Jay

Thanks Mark. One place where I get thrown off is when I adjust the head after checking the square--I'll tighten the head & it often gets thrown out when I do so. Hmm, methinks I have to be smarter than the tool so more fiddling is called for... May need to use some shims on the table as well--still getting used to working with such small tools.

I recently purchased a Proxxon drill press along with a vise and x-y table. While I'm happy with the setup, I haven't yet figured out a good method for squaring the press to the work I'm drilling. I've tried using a small square to align the head and work with mixed results. However I think the trick may be to square the head with the fixed shaft that the head raises and lowers on instead of with the x-y table / vise. Was wondering how others square their mini drill presses? Thanks! Jay

Thanks for your feedback, Russ. It'll be interesting to see if this was done elsewhere, so will study old photos, where possible, when I start those projects (am fortunate to have a good public and several university libraries nearby). Completely understand about not posting the entire photo re. unscrupulous people. The pics you've shared with your build are great--thank you! Jay

That's an interesting observation, Russ--am curious if that deckhouse design was exclusive to Biloxi schooners or extends to schooners in general? I'm eventually going to be building a few schooners, so your observation is something I'm tucking away for when I start my research. That's also a very nice photo--looks like one fellow is wearing a bowler, so am guessing the picture is somewhere between late 1800s to late 'teens or early 20s? Jay

Your re-work looks great, and I like the color contrasts you used with the stains. Mmm from what you've said, and also from what I've also experienced, replacing key basswood pieces on a build with harder wood is the way to go--adds a little to a kit's cost but perhaps saves on hassle and etc. with fighting with basswood.

Just caught up with your log; the serving machine Michael built is really nice--his work is stunning! And looking forward to your wedding pics...for your bridal registry, maybe list all the building tools you'd like... J