Arjan68
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Everything posted by Arjan68
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I haven't but it is very well possible. The planks will have to be a bit thicker to give enough strength to the body, so there could be some problems bending them. But with the sharp lines of this kit I expect no problems there. If you are a perfectionist, the frames should be made a bit wider to compensate for the thinner skin. So, for example, if the double planking was 1.5mm + 1mm and the single planking is 2mm you could glue a strip of 0.5mm veneer to the outside of the frames. -
That's a goot start. Improving the kit right from the first part. Do you have other improvement plans on this project ?
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It's starting to look very nice ! Because of the small scale you're working on I will not start about 'historical inaccuracies'
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It's true that there are no original plans from a fluyt. In the 17th century the dutch built without plans. Most shipwrights built by eye and from the knowledge that was passed from generation to generation. So we have to do with the few remaining paintings, drawings and models. Recently a lot of research has been done on the fluit by some dutch authorities (i.e. Ab Hoving and Cor Emke). They made some reconstructions and plans that should be very close to the original.
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That's an interesting little build! I am planning to scratch build a fluyt myself and have already done a lot of research on this type of ship. Do you have any drawings of how your finished model will look ? The correct dutch spelling is a fluyt (or fluit in modern dutch)
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Not much progress since the last update. The frames or bulkheads are glued to the keel and I've made mast fittings to keep them aligned. Here some pictures of a dry-fit with the masts and bowsprit. The decks are not yet glued. I have placed reinforcements between some of the bulkheads because the deck is not continuous in those places. Without them, the hull would not have enough stiffness and could distort during the planking. For reference: the main mast is 6mm diameter. The foremast and bowsprit are 5mm
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Jeff, thanks for your better explanation on how to use the pins. Explaining such things is difficult when english is not your native language.
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Hello Captain Al, Like you I'm a newcomer to MSW, but not to ship modeling. I've built a number of kits so I'll be so bold to give my own two cents of advice. I agree with Amfibius that this Bounty kit is not an easy introduction into this hobby, but with the help and experience of other members it can be done. A single planked model is more difficult, but it is also only half the amount of work of a double planked one There are a lot of howto's and theories about planking a ship's hull. You can read them all from start to end and back, but still the practice will be a challenge. No two ships are the same. The shape of the bow and stern have a big impact on how the planks behave. For your first kit you should not be concerned about a 'historically correct' planking pattern. Your main goal will be to have a smooth result without any gaps. This will make life a bit easier. I do not agree with amfibius where he suggests to drive nails trough the planks! It is better pin them down with a drawing pin pushed into the frame. I hope you understand what I mean. About the bend in your keel: it should not be necessary to try to fix that. A sturdy keel clamp can keep it straight during the planking. Afterwards the stiffness of the hull will keep the keel straight.
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Thanks Mark, At least you will learn from the mistakes that I will make during this build
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The Halifax has six small 3-pounder guns on deck. On a 1:80 scale they will be very small, so I started work on one of the carriages to see if it is feasible.Well, it is That's a 5 eurocent coin for reference
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Here's a overview of the work that has already been done. The keel and bulkheads were sawn from 3mm plywood (by hand with a fretsaw). The decks are made of 1mm plywood. I use high-quality birch plywood. A dry-fit of the bulkheads. So far I'm satisfied with the result A dry-fit with the decks.
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Hi all, The HMS Halifax is my first scratch build project after many kits. I've chosen this ship because the original navy plans still exist and also because it is a nice looking ship. Harold Hahn has made a complete and detailed set of plans based on the original, so enough info should be available to build an authentic model The Halifax was originally built as a merchant schooner in 1765. In 1768 she was purchased by the Royal Navy and converted into a 6-gun ship for coastal patrols against smugglers and the upcoming colonial unrest. During this conversion at the Portsmouth dockyard the detailed drawings were made. I like small-scale models, so I've chosen a 1:80 scale. The model will be approx. 25cm from bow to stern. You may wonder why I have not chosen for a more standard scale like 1:96 or 1:87 (H0). The reason is a practical one: I don't have any sawing machines and in 1:80 most sizes and dimensions are a multiple of 1mm, This means that I can use my extensive supply of kit wood The build was started last month, so there's already some progress. In the next post I will give an overview of the work so far. Arjan
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This build will be stopped. It turns out that the shape of the frames is wrong in many places. Apparently the kit was only loosely based on the original model. I made the mistake of not doing proper research before starting (as always too eager to start something new ). Some time and materials wasted, but on the other hand I learned a lot about fluyt ships and some new techniques Soon I will start a new build. This time a full scratch, based on real plans. So stay tuned. Arjan
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Hi Dražen, I followed your build on the old forum and it is some inpressive work you are creating ! Being Dutch I am also very interested in our 17th century ship building. You mention Ab Hoving. He is indeed a great source of knowledge. I have met him in person last year when he still was the head maritime curator in the National museum. He is retired now but still very eager to help others. Arjan
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I agree with the other comments: this caulking technique has a very good result ! I will try it out myself and perhaps use it on a future project. Your project itself is also very interesting. Trying to recreate a ship type of which there is very little info and pictures available. It's like combining ship modeling with experimental archaeology My own build is a bit like that too, but for flute ships there is much more data available.
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The first plank is dry-fitted to the hull. The main challenge here was to get the right curve in it. The sheer of a hull is very important for the overall looks. So far I'm satisfied with the result. If done right, it is a smooth curved line from all angles.
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I was referring to the other flute kit of the Derflinger. I don't like the lines of that ship. But I do like the hull of the Dutch Whaler ! Yes, it is a scratch build. The only difference is that I started with the laser-cut frames from the kit instead of making them myself from the drawings. Ehm, well.... no, I don't know exactly what I want yet When I started, I only knew what changes I would make to the deck layout and the position of the masts. The rest is made-up during the build. This is not how it's usually done and yes, it can lead to some unforeseen problems. But those will be tackeled when encountered. What I hope to achieve is something inbetween the kit and the original model,
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Welcome back Jan. I've followed your build the past few years on several other forums. She really is a beauty and I agree with the others: you should finish her. With some luck you are the record holder of "slowest kit build", going for 13 years now
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Hi Rosmarie, That's a very nice ship you're building. Flute ships have my special interest, and I'm currently building one myself. I'm thinking about buying this paper kit and making a wood version of it......
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HMS Victory by Sven - 1:600 scale - Finished
Arjan68 replied to Sven's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
That's some impressive miniature modeling Sven ! -
Hi Kostas, Sorry to hear about the twisted hull. Those kind of things happened to all of us during the first builds, so don't be ashamed. It can still turn out te be a beatufil model when finished. One thing I notice on the last picture: It looks like you did not fair the bulkheads ? This should really be done to get a smooth hull after planking. Arjan
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Hi Sarah, That's a nice result for a first paper build ! In some ways it is more difficult than wood. I'll double-check Sjors's translations for you to be sure he's not joking too much By the way: this is a real existing ship. Here's a link to a picture of her: http://www.schollekop.nl/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=6604 The pic was taken on a "vlaggetjesdag". which would translate to flags day. This is a annual event in which the local fleet is shown and usually open to public. Arjan
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Yes, I know this model, but in my opinion it is not a real flute. But more important: I think it's ugly.
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Thank you John. I hope that I can keep up to the expectations for the rest of the build. Compared to some of the other projects I'm just a beginner....... At the moment I'm trying to make some decisions about reshaping the hull. The shape of some of the frames seems a bit wrong. It's like the kit maker made some modifications to make it suitable for "horizontal planking".(straight from bow to stern as if it is a house). Of course I'm not going to do that
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Nice to meet you on this forum too Michiel ! As you know, I've followed this build closely on a dutch forum. I'm still impressed by the amount of detail you add to the ship.
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