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moreplovac

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About moreplovac

  • Birthday 03/30/1955

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vancouver, BC, Canada

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  1. Did not quite like how blocks ended up so i made them again; removed from yard, and seized them into a bit more nicely manner. I did not have enough black rope so i used tan rope that was colored in black. First time using this technique and so far looks nice. and on the yard. Happy modeling.
  2. Lower yard construction continued by rigging blocks to yard already tapered. A 3 mm double block was lashed to the center of the yard following a kit supplied instructions.. This one will be used for a halliard. Two single blocks were seized together and placed on the ends of the yard arms. I am not quite happy with end results so need to do a bit of research to find a useful process of seizing two blocks together. Suggestions appreciated. Single double block seizing process.. Sling for the lower yard halliards was also made, following practicum for proper dimensions.. and attached to the ship, with a bit of a weight to make it fit correctly.. On above picture the block is facing outwards but it was actually positioned properly after. The area is very populated so extra care is advisable while working.. Happy modeling.
  3. Haven't been to active these days; work related tasks are keeping me away from hobby... Hopefully back to shipyard soon...
  4. The work on rigging continues... Today i started on topsail yards.. First, a layer of vanishing was applied on all three yards, so i don't forget it as i did with main and fore gaff. The peak downhaul tan rope was run through the 2.5mm single block that was seized on the tip of the gaff. The line was brought down to the mast cleat and finished with a rope coil. That area is very crowded with all details in place so people with big hands like me have to pay special attention not to break something... Then i worked on rigging those tiny 2.5mm blocks that will be seized on the tip of topsail yards. All topsail yards were completed before, by running them on my mini lathe and tips are finished by hand since they are fairly fragile. Then the fun begun with cleats. I have tried to shape them from a small piece of wood. Partially successful by holding them in tweezers so i can follow shape from the plan... Partially successful because, during building process and moving them to better position the file, they simply flew from tweezers.. Somewhere. So another approach was taken. The small piece of wood was filled in concave shape so it can fit snugly to the yard and glued to the yard. Then the shape was taken from the plan and transferred to the wood. A bit of carving took place.. Then three holes were drilled to assist with carving.. And the end result.. The layer of black paint and varnish was applied. The same will be done for two other yards. Happy modeling.
  5. I will definitely try this approach, never thought about it.. Appreciated, Cheers
  6. No, thanks for a link, appreciated. I think i got the idea how to do it to save wood, saw and fingers..
  7. Thanks, appreciated. I will try to do it with my saw but most likely will try to find someone local with more powerful saw... Thanks again.
  8. Thank you very much for detailed replay, really appreciated. I think i will try to find some local woodworker, dont want to overuse my saw.. I believe it is a Sweet Cherry judging by your explanation. Thanks again, much appreciated.
  9. Hello, apologies if this is not correct forum for this type of question. I have a pile of cherry logs, app 3in in diameter and about foot long. I would like to mill it so i can use it in model building. I do have a 9in wood band saw, mini table saw, a planer and "normal" table saw. Logs still have a bark on it and they went thru some "drying" process laying on the floor in my shop. I am not sure how to attack it to get the most of it for ship building so any suggestion/how-tos will be much appreciated. Also, any recommendation in which stage of ship modelling i can use this type of wood (deck planking, deck furniture, etc) would be appreciated. Thanks...
  10. Work on fore gaff continues... To stiffen the line and to have it look tighten, i diluted white glue 1 part glue 8 part water, using a brush i put some amount of watered glue to the line. Home made weight was connected with a piece of rope (tiny black line at the top of fore gaff) to make sure gaff stays tighten while glue dries.. Happy modeling.
  11. Parral beads were simulated in the same way as for the boom. The beads were cut from the toothpick, the hole was drilled thru the center, the line was put thru and they were painted flat black.. The beads were also sanded close to rounded shape... The tackles were made for throat halliard and for throat downhaul... Peak halliard line was made starting with a eye.... The main gaff was mounted and the lines were covered with a white glue, diluted heavily with water, to stiffen the lines and to make them straight.. To help with straightening, the home made alligator clip was used... The fore gaff waiting for installation... Happy modeling..
  12. The work continues... The rigged 2mm block.. This picture reminds me of a MG-42 machine gun... Happy modeling
  13. Fore gaff construction completed; well at least building part. Now blocks, rope, etc have to be installed. First the shape of a jaws was traced on piece of wood, cut and sanded.. Attached to the giff, iron band installed and hole drilled. The eye bolt mounted as well. This time no snap effect.. Painted in flat black... Ready for next step. Happy modeling.

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