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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. In reading the Thomas Kydd series of books, there are a number of references to "pointing" the ends of running rigging lines at times instead of adding a whipping to the ends, which was a new one for me. I see this as a practical thing for reeving lines for our modeling practices. I was just wondering if anyone else is familiar with this practice and how common it was. Allan
  2. Hamilton At least for the British ships, back in the day, circumference was the predominant measurement. At some point, rope of 1" diameter or less was measured in diameter not circumference. Today, breaking strength is a commonly used specification as there are so many more materials available to make rope. Practically, it is easier to measure the circumference than the diameter, so that may be the reason circumference was the commonly used dimension. For our model rigging, it is easier to measure the diameter with a micrometer than some how accurately measure the circumference. Allan
  3. Jim, I have found Lees to be reliable and informative to the extreme. Petersson, not as much, and unless you are building a 36 from about 1785 rather than Leopard, it will not have all the information you need. Try to figure out a line size from Petersson, (he gives no information) then look at Lees. If you need details on "how to" for many things, get David Antscherl's TFFM volume 4. As far as scratch building being for the advanced builder, I do not agree. One of the biggest problems for many that makes scratching difficult is the lack of a bigger work space and the larger set of tools needed when compared to assembling pre-made pieces from a kit. That in itself makes it a great thing to have kits available. There is always the compromise where you can scratch build part and get some fantastic parts and materials from various sources that advertise right here at MSW. Allan
  4. Brett Have you looked at any planking expansion drawings? There are several that can be found at the NMM collections site. One of the most clear without purchasing a set is of Squirrel 1785. You can see the scale at the bottom of the drawings and make out the garboard plank quite easily to get an idea of where it ends and compare to the profile and frame disposition drawings. Allan
  5. Welcome Good luck with your builds, you will find all the help you need from the team here at MSW. If you please, let us know a name by which we can address you, if not Zarkon, the ruthless and overbearing ruler of the Galra Empire Allan
  6. Don, Have you thought of forgoing the plywood false deck altogether and just plank the deck as it is done on other models and the real vessel? You may have to use planks that are a bit thicker to account for the thickness of the plywood. Allan
  7. Frank, Far and away the nicest Skipjack model I have seen. Great workmanship Allan
  8. A little too late, but for the next time. For unsealed wood, India Ink or a dye is good substitute for paint. Even black marker works very well. It penetrates and leaves no brush marks, and any finish can be used over it. Allan
  9. Yes understood, but the coating would be black on the brass. Just an idea from days of old when they coated the iron cannon with this mixture. Surely paint is easier Allan
  10. When doing multiple pieces, you would need solders with different melt points, starting with the highest melt point solder first. The next piece to be soldered on the assembly would use a lower melt point paste, and so forth. I have not tried more than three solder temperatures and like everything else, it still takes some practice to get a feel for this, but it does work well. Allan
  11. Eddie, I did some digging but did not find anything concrete in any books or tables regarding how many pieces, lengths, or location and types of the joints. Logic says the longest pieces would be similar to that of the planking, perhaps 20 to 30 feet. In order to keep the grain as straight as possible, the forward most pieces would likely be shorter to accommodate the hard curve without too much cross grain. A hooked or perhaps a plain scarph seems appropriate for the joints. This is all conjecture on my part. Allan
  12. I have no idea if this would work on brass cannon, but could be interesting to try bees wax, turpentine and black pigment powder (like lamp black) as was done on the actual barrels back in the day. I doubt it would be better than blackening, paint, or other options we have today, but if it works, it would lend an air of authenticity and give a bit of a conversation piece. Allan
  13. John You almost have me convinced to give it a try. Does the steam expand the wood? Gluing it in place "wet" is problematic as it leaves gaps when it dries, so I was wondering if the steaming softens the wood without expanding it at all. Also, 1 mm is the equivalent of only 2" thickness at 1:48 . Have you had success using steam for thicker pieces of walnut or other hard woods, say 3 or 4 mm? Allan
  14. Welcome Jeremy, Can't say that I fully appreciate your frustrations but I do feel for you. I did have the pleasure to spend some time off of a freighter at Cape Town, Durban, East London, et al in '66 and was one of the best voyages I experienced. I am told by acquaintances who have been to S.A. recently that it is nothing like it was 50 years ago, but I do hope to make the trek again and spend time in the interior. Again, welcome to MSW and enjoy the ride. Allan
  15. I am now 1/3 through book three of the Thomas Kydd series by Stockwin and am pretty well hooked on the series overall. Darn books are going to cost me though at about $9 a pop and a book a week so far. Highly recommend this series. Allan
  16. Brett It sounds like you are referring to the sprit top mast which is at the end of the bow sprit and secured with a knee and sometimes shrouds of sort. Some carried a small platform and above that a sprit topsail yard with a square rigged sprit top sail. Allan
  17. Jag Keep in mind that there will be several types of boats, each a different length, likely a barge, cutters, a launch, etc. Probably the only way to have boats that are the correct design and length is to build your own. As mentioned earlier it is a fun min project and should wind up looking much better than anything you buy. Resin boats on a wooden ship model?? Ugh. There was a good discussion on the Constitution's boats in 2014 and there were different boats at different times. Pick your poison and have at it. There are great descriptions on building your own boats in various books. I can send you one write up, so if you wish, PM me. Allan
  18. Mae If you are building an Admiralty style model, that is with no rigging, and want to display the model as was done like the old models 200 years ago, they usually show no cannon at all. Rigged models do show the guns for the most part. But, it is totally up to you. I have not rigged a war vessel since 1978 but stop when it is similar to the Admiralty style, no masts, no lines. Even so I do rig a few cannon on each deck as I just like to show some and most people expect to see some armament. I close the lids on most of the other ports and am done with it. If you go this route, you can build a deck of sorts at each level to hold a few or all the cannon. Those on the lower decks need not be rigged as this cannot be seen. Up to you. If you are rigging the model, most if not all the guns would be shown if you want to have a look similar to the old models, but again, we have choices and there is no wrong way, traditional or not. Enjoy the hobby, that is the most important thing. Allan
  19. Thanks to Larry Van Es for his post. I downloaded book one of the Kydd series on my Kindle and so far it is extremely good. Caution though for us modelers. If you have built an English frigate or ship of the line from a kit, the details in the book will be interesting but may be meaningless at times without doing a bit of research. For those that are well read on these ships and/or have scratch built a fully framed plank on frame model, you will be able to picture the details as if you were there. If you rigged a large English warship model you will feel like you are part of the crew, be it in the tops, reeving a line through a block or serving and stropping a new block. Incredible detail to be found in this first book so far. The more you know going in, the more the book will be enjoyed. In reading a bit of Julian Stockwin's CV, he has the creds to make me believe his details are quite accurate regarding some of the things that he describes that were new to me. If there is a down side, his character development leaves a bit to be desired, at least so far. Allan
  20. I don't care what type ship or era one is considering building, this log is worth its weight in gold just on techniques that can be learned. Super job Ed, and please accept another thank you for sharing so much. Allan
  21. I can picture a variation in a large aquarium with tropical fish going in and out. Allan
  22. Eric Thank you for your treatise. What paper did you use? I was skeptical at first as I was thinking the paper would deteriorate in color and strength relatively quickly so did a quick check on commonly available paper. It appears that high quality alkaline paper will last 1000 years and average grades about 500 years. Acid papers will turn in color and become brittle much more quickly. All in all, a very interesting alternative to cloth or silkspan. Allan
  23. Hi Scott, As the father of a son who is about to retire from the US Army after 21 years in Army Aviation and who did five deployments to Iraq and Afghanistan I really appreciate what you have done and cannot thank you enough for your service. I hope that I can be one of this great group of ours to thank you in some small way by helping you along in your new found venture in ship modeling. Welcome to the fray!! Allan
  24. Thank goodness the changes at Preble Hall at the US Naval Academy a few years ago where positive, and they still provide easy access to speaking with experts on the many models on display there. Allan
  25. Moxis I have attached my write up that we used in the Euryalus books. Hope it helps. Allan Cannon barrels.docx

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