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allanyed

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Posts posted by allanyed


  1. I thought this would be an easy one to address but after speed reading appropriate sections  in Seamanship Age of Sail by John Harland I found there was a lot to do in preparing and actually anchoring.  In short, the anchor was dropped one at a time and the ship moved away from the anchor(s) with wind and tide until the anchor(s) bit.  The number and selection of sails used when anchoring was depend on the wind conditions and direction. The hawser(s) was wrapped around the riding bitts a turn (sometimes twice) then secured once the ship pulled tight and anchor bit.  I was unable to find any mention of using capstans or windlasses in anchoring.  The number of anchors used could be as many as three or four, depending on wind and tide.  There were different sequences used when coming to an anchorage head on with wind dead aft, coming in before the wind with the tide, coming in before the wind and against the tide, and anchoring on a lee shore, the last requiring as many as four anchors letting go first the weather sheet, then the weather bower, then the lee bower and last the lee sheet anchor.  The helm was used at times to maintain the ship tight against the hawsers, and again there is no mention of using the capstans.  There are about 28 pages on anchoring and mooring and there are numerous drawings showing the maneuvering in different situations in Harland's book.    I am sure there are other members with more knowledge on this, but Harland is usually a reliable source of such information.

    Allan


  2. Bazz

    A quick search and simple description shows that at the time of Trafalgar in 1805, Victory carried the following.  

    •  
    • Gundeck: Thirty Blomefield 32 pounders  9' 6" long barrel
    • Middle gundeck: Twenty-eight 24 pounders  9' 6" long barrel
    • Upper gundeck: Thirty 12 pounders   8' 6" long barrel
    • Quarterdeck: Twelve 12 pounder  8' 6" long barrel
    • Forecastle: Two 12 pounders 9' long  barreland + Two 68 pounder  carronade 5' 2" long   barrel
    •  The carriages of the 24 and 32 pounders would be 72" long but the carriages of the 12 pounders approximately 67" long.   Scaling down, the 32 pounder carriages would be 19mm long and the 12 pounders 17.7mm long.  The carronade mountings are of course a different design altogether.

     

    Allan


  3. My all time favorite for planking ships' boats is holly.    When wet it is extremely flexible for bending into frames over a forming plug and works very well dry for the planking.  If the boats were painted white, the wood itself will negate the need to add paint.   For other pieces European box or Costello Box are both great.  Just one more opinion.....

     

    AllanLaunch.thumb.jpg.e6c8c813b84d324109ebf44026eee6eb.jpg2143545025_Launchfromstern.thumb.jpg.37b55163d28b5221d4999420978dcb5e.jpg

     


  4. Based on photos and plans that I could find that are appropriate to French ships in the 18th century, I  believe the outboard rail would be a series of permanent U-shaped stanchions called hammock cranes in which  hammocks would be stowed after being rolled and passed through a measuring ring when not in use.   They would be walled in with canvas or netting.  Per a description from Goodwin, the English first secured the cranes with a single spike into the plank sheer but then later followed the French practice of having the bulwarks partially built up and cranes were secured to the inboard side of the bulwark rather on than on top of the plank sheer.     There would be no rail at all around the waist.   The inboard rail on the replica is indeed more likely to prevent lawsuits due to not following modern safety practices.    The ship's boats would be hoisted over these hammock stowage rails so there was no need to make them flexible or removable.   

    Allan


  5. Jeffrey

    This may be an easy way out, and specific to one or two vessels.   Zephyr 1779 (14 gun brig) drawing   https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/85176.html     If you download and print the drawing you can measure the angle pretty accurately for that brig. You can compare it to Swift (8 gun brig sloop), 1783 as well.   https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/84645.html

     

    Allan


  6. I assume you are silver soldering so an iron would not work,   I have a block of material made for soldering at most any temperature.  It is soft enough to dig into it which I have done on numerous occasions to hold a piece in place.  Hard to describe in words so if my explanation is unclear, I can try to post a photo or two to give you an idea of what has worked for me.   Using a wire to hold things in place does work but you would need to make sure it cannot be heated to the same temperature.  Clip on an alligator clip on the piece not to be soldered and it will draw away enough heat to keep the hold down piece from being soldered.  If it is still a problem, clip to the wire that is not to be soldered with a wet piece of cloth or tissue in the alligator clip as well.   

    Allan


  7. I suspect the shape may have varied depending on the nation, era, builder, etc.   One example is the drawing of the Hampton Court 1709 decks.  https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/384163.html   Looking at the lower gun deck  it seems clear that the chain pump tubes were square and the brake or suction (elm tree) pumps were round.    Lavery gives a good bit of detail on both chain and brake pumps pages 72-79 in the Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War and the chain pump tubes are square while the brake pumps were round.  He mentions that in 1804 metal tubes were tried but without much success and it was permitted to use pitch pine in place of elm in starting in 1807.

     

    Allan


  8. Pieter

     

    The short answer is I do not think there were any brass railings on any ship of the line in the 18th century.  These would all be wood, and most likely painted or other wise protected.    If you choose to go with wood  they are easy to make with home made cutters made from pieces of an old hacksaw blade or stiff back single edge razor.  That said, if you choose to use the brass in the kit, I imagine they can be  painted any color you feel is appropriate, be it black, a wood tone, or left alone as you mention.

     

    Allan


  9. Paul

     

    I may be way off base here, but I don't think there are supposed to be gun ports cut into the bulkhead for the chase guns.   Photos of Artois class ships, including Diana, at the NMM Collections site do not have ports for these guns.   The photo below is from NMM for Diana  http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66533.html

     

    Allan

     

    2134886030_Diana1794.thumb.jpg.0308e58b7e63ef3a7acdcd0561f95aaf.jpg


  10. If you cannot make a master yourself, maybe just buy one of each size then make a mold and cast your own as suggested above.   The cost of making a silicone mold then casting with resin or pewter or similar lead free metal will be less than buying all of them.  There was a recent post on casting barrels here, so could give you an idea on what is involved if want to go in that direction.  If you do buy a single barrel for each size, be sure they are to scale for your needs and contemporary in design as there were differences over the years in both long guns and differences in carronades, albeit smaller differences.  Good luck

    Allan


  11. I realize this string is over a year old now, but as I just ordered a set of chisels from Mihail that he is targeting to ship early February I would like any information on sharpening based on members' experience that have used his or similar sized micro chisels.   I use the Veritas for relatively larger chisels but gather from earlier posts that this does not work for the micro chisels.   I am envisioning a triangular block with various angles of 25 degrees, et al to hold the chisel at the proper angle when honing on a stone and then stropping but this seems almost too simple.  In addition,  I have a small leather stropping pad and stropping compound, but if there are suggestions on a better stropping device, I am all ears.  

    Allan


  12. Paul,

    You may be correct in that there may have been a few fingers on the deck, but keep in mind these sails were not used except with lighter winds, or as Harland describes in Seameanship in the Age of Sail, in reasonable conditions.  In these conditions, when the wind was near abeam, the weather side studdingsails might come out.  The lee side would not be used unless the wind was about dead aft.  Keep in mind, the topsail yard studding sails and even the topgallant yard studding sails saw more use than the lower yard studding sails.  Regarding the lower yards, the foreyard studding sails were used far more than the those on the main yard.   The main lower studdingsails fell out of use completely after about 1800.   

    There was a lot of rigging involved with the sails themselves and described in great detail on how they were rigged and used in Harland's book for anyone interested.

     

    Allan


  13. Hi Antonio

    Your photo appears to the booms tied to the spar with line instead of mounted with iron rings.   What ship/year/nation is your model?   The mounting varied with nation and era, but I do not believe they were ever tied with rope of any kind.  For example for British ships that carried stunsail booms there were two boom irons on each side of the yard.  For British ships the rings through which the booms passed lean forward 45 degrees up to 1850 then they were at 22.5 degrees.  They do not sit straight up on the spar nor do they lay in a flat plane as you show in your photo.  The outboard  ring through which the boom passes had a roller in them after 1773.   The inner ring through which the boom passes was hinged after 1773.  Dutch ships carried the booms abaft the yards.

    The outer rings were fitted with straps and bolts to the end of the yard and the inner rings were about 1/3 of the length of the boom in from the end of the yard.

    Hope this helps.  Lees shows some very detailed drawings of the boom irons. 740330420_Boomirons.JPG.e240f0a3c23601bdbddbf4e06187095a.JPG

    Allan


  14.  Looking at contemporary model photos, there seems to be no end to the shapes on each model, but Ed's tutorial should work well for any of them, just be careful whether your ship's blocks would have had rope strops or metal as on the more "modern" clipper.   I saw a video or series of photos quite a while ago that showed shaped cutting bits used on a mill to cut the outside shape so every block was shaped the same.   Each size block had a different cutter, but they were beautifully done.   Barring the above, I would go with Chuck's blocks.

     

    Allan


  15. Antonio

    FWIW the sling cleats in the center don't look quite right and I doubt very much that there would be the partial ring shown on the kit yard to attach to the mast.  The yards would likely use parrels and or some type of sling.  The cleats at the end of the yard should hold up well with just gluing them on with carpenter's glue, no need to make a slot.  There are Connie experts on this forum and can probably share more details with you.  Be sure to rig the various buntline blocks, lift blocks, brace pendants, etc. to the yard before putting the yards to the masts. It is much easier to seize these to the yards while off the model.

    Good luck on your build!!

    Allan

     

     

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