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allanyed

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Posts posted by allanyed

  1. Dan,

    I have the draw plate you posted in the photo and the draw plate from Jim Byrnes.   No comparison as to quality and accuracy as the Byrnes is superior in all aspects.  I use bamboo for many things, including tree nails.  I can take most bamboo species down to 0.016" which is the equivalent of  1" at 1:64 or 0.75" at 1:48.  Bamboo skewers typically work best in my experience plus they are subtle in color in addition to being at the proper scale.  I split the skewers so they can pass through the largest diameter hole then pass the piece through each hole two or three times at a slight angle, then to the next smallest hole until I get to the diameter I need.

     

    Donna Byrnes indicates accessories are available so you may be in luck.   https://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/drawplate5.html

     

    Allan

  2. 2 hours ago, mediocremodeler said:

    Bottom picture is 3d 9lb

    Hi Mediocre

     

    Welcome to MSW😀.  It would be great if you posted a little introduction about yourself in the new member forum here at MSW.

     

    As this topic is about Blomefield pattern guns you may want to post your kind offer in a new topic as yours is something else and may attract a wider audience.  The barrel in the last photo looks very nicely done, but I cannot place the pattern it represents.  

     

    Allan

  3. Monique

     

    There is a full set of high resolution drawings of the Enterprise (28) 1774 and her class on the Wiki Commons site that you might useful whether you are looking to build a kit, modify a kit, or scratch build.   https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich   They are on page 8 and include drawings of the following. 

    Enterprize (1774), Siren (1773), Fox (1773), Surprize (1774), Acteon (1775), Medea (1778), Serpine (1777), Andromeda (1777), Aurora (1777), Sibyl (1779), Brilliant (1779), Pomona (1778), Crescent (1779), Nemesis (1780), RMG

     

    There is a set for Enterprise 1848 as well, but obviously a totally different ship.

     

    Allan

  4. 28 minutes ago, DaveBaxt said:

    First off ,Would this tool work on cotton thread

    HI Dave,

    Cotton does not melt, but dry cotton will burn at about 420 degrees F. (232.22C).  Once lit,  cotton thread can act like a fuse and continue to burn.   Cotton will ignite spontaneously at about 760F.   Other sealing methods that you mention have been discussed ad infinitum and each method has its fans and detractors.  Whatever you find works best for you is the way to go. 

    Allan

  5. I realize she was not a warship and it may be an OcCre design, but FWIW and maybe for the future, the deck planking shift patterns on British ships, according to Peter Goodwin in The Construction of and Fitting of the English Man of War, page 58, were as follows:

    Deckplankingshiftpatterns.thumb.JPG.daf12646e7914d32212f11e3770029dd.JPG

    He goes on to say that these shift patterns were necessary so the deck was not weak.

     

    Allan

     

     

  6. On 2/28/2024 at 5:31 PM, ERS Rich said:

    Mucho important.  The instructions probably do not emphasize that planks must be tapered.  If needed look it up here, along with the concept of planking belts.  An understanding of planking is probably the biggest thing one needs to learn when getting started.  See my Constitution log, link below for pointers.

    This is an incredibly important comment if a realistic model is part of your goal.  In addition to the planking tutorials in the Articles data base here at MSW, if you have not already done so, study the four part tanking tutorial videos.  Part one--  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM

    Allan

     

  7. 23 hours ago, paul ron said:

    im building the flying fish clipper 1851. my plans, and after searching, i cant find any references to lights used on these ships

     

    Just saw this post string and it brings up a terminology question as it was confusing in the first post.  On English ships of the 17th century and into the 19th century (maybe earlier and later??) lights at the galleries and stern are the windows, not lamps or lanterns.   Did this change circa 1855 as Pat mentions above such that the lanterns and lanterns on clipper and other ships were then called lights and the lights became known as windows or some other term such as bullseyes and portholes?  Not a major thing, just curious. Tx

    Allan

  8. Rob,

    I TRULY hope all goes well for you!! 

    I have recently been doing some more studying of the Portland class as the 50 gun ships of any era are probably my favorites.   

    This is very late to the table---  Christian mentioned I think that Portland has the conventional framing pattern with double and single frames.  This made sense to me but I just noticed a few days ago that on the framing plan for Portland there is a note that there are to be dry pieces of oak between every frame.  They show an example of these pieces at station O.  Whether this carried over to the later ships of the class I have no idea, but barring additional contemporary information to the contrary, I think one could argue there were no double frames.

    Allan

  9. Wherever you decide to paint the bottom, the line would usually be parallel with the earth.   Your photo appears to have a curve to the tape.  There are hundreds of photos you can check out of contemporary models on the RMG Collections site, including the one at https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66510

     In any case, if you want a very clean line, before painting, spray a couple clear coats which will seal the tape at the edge.   Afterwards, after you paint the color and it has dried peel off the tape it will be a very straight line.

    Allan

  10. 1 hour ago, Thukydides said:

    In our modeling world, that seems impractible

    I agree with Daniel that fixing the yards makes things easier and it will also provide security over the many years to follow.   I use small diameter brass rod as described in The Fully Framed Model volume IV.  Most importantly follow Daniel's advice about pre rigging as much as possible on the yards before hanging on the masts.  For a LOT of great detail on rigging my two favorites are James Lees' Masting and Rigging and David Antscherl's The Fully Framed Model volume 4 and his sail making supplement.  The order of dressing in TFFM is more user friendly for modelers than the OOD in Lees which I believe was that which was done on actual ships.

    Allan

  11. Blacky,

    I have all of the  Ardent (1764), Ardent (1782) and Anson 1781 plans in high resolution downloaded as they are  available on the Wiki Commons site. With the deck plans and Inboard profile you should have everything you need.   I would attach here for you but each is 35mb to 70 mb.  Go to the Wiki site  https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich   Pages 1 and 4  have all the drawings for the above vessels in high res.   You can also contact Bucklers Hard to see what information they have on Agamemnon.  They were very helpful in the past when I was doing a lot of research on Euryalus which was also built at Bucklers Hard.  

    Allan

  12. 8 hours ago, Yabuhebi said:

    I may be lost in the terminology here. I know that I have tapered the stern to accommodate the addition of both plankings. 

     

    Hi Chris

    Sorry if my question raised more questions.   It is probably easier to look at  similar discussions here at MSW  when this was raised on another build.  I suspect your kit does not address this as only two kit makers I now of appear to give this any attention even though it is found on virtually every RN ship in the 17th to early 19th centuries.  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34577-taper-of-the-keel-stem-knee-of-the-head-and-stern-post/#comment-986943 and https://modelshipworld.com/topic/32748-hms-bellona-by-nearshore-corel-1100/page/2/#comment-982279  Post #40

    Just as the stern post narrows in breadth from the upper portion down to match the keel, the stem also reduces in breadth so it matches the breadth of the keel where they meet at the boxing joint as the keel tapers in breadth for and aft from midships.   Looking down on the knee of the head from above it also tapers from the stem down to about 6 inches at the area of the figure head on a 74.  I do not have my books with me so not sure on a first rate, but I am guessing it would be similar.  In the end, as with the majority of kit makers, most model builders are not aware of the tapering or are not overly concerned with it so it will likely never be noticed if not done.  The downside is that the figure head, if a carved person will surely be bowlegged. 😀 

    Allan

    Kneeoftheheadtaper2.JPG.84e641e635a290a245b40275c21e1f5c.JPGKneeoftheheadandstemtaper.JPG.986a644e8aef4d4ccf788ebc74c1438b.JPG

     

  13. On 2/25/2024 at 11:29 AM, rvchima said:

    Spoiler Alert - I am about to copper the hull. The Sphinx was coppered in 1781. Would the copper go under, over, or around the iron reinforcement plates? Same question for the rudder hinges.

    FWIW  Bellona coppering.  https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66299  Copper is over the rudder hardware.   

    Bellona1760.jpg.1c068ad862bc8cfa65896a44a36a4d1f.jpg

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