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chris watton

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Everything posted by chris watton

  1. I designed some fine saws for PE for Amati a while back, but they decided not to go ahead. The problem with PE saw blades is that the teeth are not 'splayed' out at the sides like 'real' saw blades, which makes sawing easy and reduces clogging (they are very sharp though, as the MD of Amati almost cut his finger off when trying out one of my saw blades when it slipped...). They would have been fine for anything 3mm and thinner, I think.
  2. Revenge is almost 200 years before the intended fittings shown. I am not sure if boats were towed permanently for a vessel of Revenge's era. The lantern castings are of a typical mid to late 18th Century pattern.
  3. Just the smallest of updates, I now have three sizes of stern lantern available. They come in pairs and consist of a cast resin top and bottom, and fold-around photo etch frame that fits in between. Simple things, but the castings are quite detailed, especially compared to my past efforts, a turned top and bottom on the lathe and cast in white metal.. Lanterns – VANGUARD MODELS Sizes are (height): SMALL – 17.8mm MEDIUM – 21.3mm LARGE – 23.7mm Also included a pic of the laser cut parts for the 36 foot admirals barge (over 160mm long), that I cut
  4. Only 64th scale. These are all mini kits that will be included in my future main kits. I wanted them to be kits in themselves, and not the usual afterthought to the main kit. I have little time to re draw each one for 72nd scale, it would double my costs, especially when it comes to the photo etched parts, which are never cheap anyway (nor is the pear). I think that when I have a healthy range of kits, I will have the luxury of looking at more fittings in different scales, but for now, I am concentrating exclusively on subjects in 1:64th scale. I will have t
  5. I now have the slightly reworked 18' cutter online (again, thanks to Jim Hatch), This, in line with some of the other small boats, has a 1mm pearwood keel and laser cut pearwood oars and 0.6mm pearwood planking, so it looks more in scale, despite its diminutive size. Ship’s Boats (various types) – VANGUARD MODELS There will be another 4 boats ready in the next week or so, a 26 and 34 foot launch, 32 foot pinnace and 32 foot barge. There will be the 36 foot Admirals barge in the next couple of months, and will probably finish off the range with a couple of larger cutter
  6. It is a shame. I bought one of my very first wooden kits from Nick back in 1992, Mantua's (then) brand new kit of Le Superb, and ordered from the Model Dockyard for years after. He will be missed.
  7. Well done, for a first model, that's not too shabby at all. Looks great so far, in fact.
  8. OK, again, thanks to Jim, I have three of the boats ready for sale (or sail...). Only limited stock, though, as I only ordered a few PE sheets for each, in case of any changes required, but there weren't any.. Ship’s Boats (various types) – VANGUARD MODELS
  9. Looking great! regarding painting, I just used what seemed to be most likely for the period, so no real hard and fast rule.
  10. No, Sphinx is a small 20 gun post ship, a miniature frigate in looks, and very mid 1770's. Surprise is two decades later, and in reality a French corvette, although larger than Sphinx, she was still considered too small for a frigate by that time, hence her very short active life after capture (in reality). Surprise would have had a launch and pinnace, but not a yawl, I do not think, as this was replaced by the cutter, around 24 foot in length.
  11. OK, Jim (Hatch) has put together the three mini coat kits that will be standard for the Sphinx kit, a 22' yawl (£24), 24' launch (£25.50) and 28' pinnace (£28.50). And he has done a marvellous job, I think. I am hoping to have a few of each in stock next week, to buy individually, as Jim is doing a little online (PDF) build manual for each. The 18'cutter is also getting a small revamp, in keeping with the new releases. The boat kits will have extensive laser cut parts, in pearwood (0.6 and 1mm), including laser cut pear oars, thwarts/stern sheets and gunwales if applica
  12. Looks fantastic Glenn! If the PE on that aftermost window decoration is just glued, I would suggest trying to remove it carefully using a knife blade, and swapping them over. there are locating holes for these, when matched up with a pin, should fit perfectly.
  13. I may have to get that. And then never find the time to build it... But feel I must have it!
  14. Amati Victory has 'Spirketting', but no etching detail. For Sphinx, I am working on a laser cut main wale with properly spiled etching, like the spirketting. Truth is, if this were sub contracted, there's no way I could afford the costs of the extra laser work, and it is only now, now that I know the capabilities of my laser machine intimately, that I feel confident in including this kind of detail in my future kits.
  15. First planking complete and sanded smooth. This is 1mm thick x 5mm wide limewood, much easier to work with than 1.5mm thick lime (Took a day to plank and 20 minutes to sand). Hull lines are quite planking friendly, so not much overlap to sand. No changes needed for the bulkheads, as all planks sit just right on each, so this means I have no more work to do on main skeletal structure. No gun ports to mark out and cut out, too, they will just need a slight file so they are flush with the main frames.
  16. Very nice progress, and a tough decision whether to leave the hull unpainted. I do think that the white complements the pear very nicely.
  17. Not sure yet, have to be careful of laser cutting time. At this rate, I will only be able to produce one kit per day for laser cut parts..
  18. I have the more expensive Tamiya Yamato kit, and it is so much better than the standard older kit. As it's snowing heavily here today, I won't be going to the workshop to sand the prototype hull. Instead, I thought I'd dry fit another critical area, the bow. This is made up of 14 parts and, as with Duchess and fishing boats (and all new future kits), it has the rabbet worked into the prow and keel parts. Again, these are just for checking and are throwaway parts.. The figurehead is the kit version. Each kit will have a 3-d printed figurehead with zero trimming required.
  19. This is always my dilemma, price. If I was designing for a large manufacturer, this model would have been trimmed down to the absolute bare minimum, to keep the material and packing cost low. I do not consider this so much, but it still means it will cost more than an equivalent size 'mainstream kit' - although they are basically empty shells (As an example, even a small model like Duchess of Kingston has well over an hour's worth of laser cutting time per kit). Right now, considering the amount of materials required for this (many pre made parts means a lot more sheets of pear, ma
  20. Hull from figurehead to stern is around 605mm long (Speedy hull length is 440mm). With bowsprit, it will come to a little under 800mm. Not too big, not too small.
  21. I do not know yet, but am hoping for April/May release. If I get furloughed again, maybe sooner! Just dry fitted (not glued in place until outer hull planked) forecastle and quarterdeck beams, all seems fine.. ETA - All upper deck beams will be in pearwood
  22. I always think that (even now)! when it comes to making them, but once I get started, I am always surprised that they are all completed in a couple of days. The new boats will have planking laser cut on a 0.6mm pear sheet, so not so thick (although you still have to taper them yourself, you need something to do..) ETA - I think Sphinx will work just fine without boats, as the quarterdeck will be designed to be only partially planked, showing the deck beams..
  23. I have been ploughing on with designing the Sphinx model kit. here are a few (bad) pics of my prototype build (the third and hopefully final). I am just making this up for pictures for Jim, who will once again build the finalised model for the instructions and box art. This is a lot more complex than previous Vanguard Models designs, and as such, is taking far longer to develop. However, I am hoping the end result will mean that many will be able to make a very nice model from the kit, and enjoy the build without the need for special skills.. For now, this is as far as I will go, d
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